Question: Liked your blog this week Sid pointing out how the growing interest in terroir is stimulating more vineyard mapping. You noted 3 important factors “of soil types, of exposures, and of altitudes” and I wondered which one of those you consider to be the most important.
Answer: Thanks for your kind words. The distinct terroir of any vineyard is difficult to define because it is an amalgam of many complex contributing elements. The 3 you point out are all important but I vote for soil first among those. Look at the influence of Kimmeridgean soil in Chablis for Chardonnay, sandy soil in Barolo Cannubi for Nebbiolo, deep clay in Pomerol for Merlot, gravel in Pauillac for Cabernet Sauvignon, granite in Beaujolais for Gamay, slate in the Mosel for Riesling among so many others. I believe climate or really microclimate is probably the most important factor of all. Climate influences the grape in so many ways including sun, temperature highs, lows and ranges, wind, rain, hail, frost, hours of daylight etc. Everyone is now watching carefully how our changing world climate is affecting the established terroir of all vineyards.
Wine maps have been popular for quite a while now. I still remember how excited I was when the first edition of Hugh Johnson’s The World Atlas of Wine was released in 1971 containing detailed maps of the wine regions and how to locate them. In fact it was that book together with A Wine Tour of France by Frederic S Wildman, Jr. that provided the background for my earliest trips in the seventies around France. Later in 1987 Hugh Johnson with Hubrecht Duijker published The Wine Atlas of France and Traveller’s Guide to the Vineyards and in 1989/1990 Hachette/Pascal Ribereau-Gayon with a foreword by Robert M. Parker produced The Wines and Vineyards of France all with updates containing even more detail on the vineyards in France. Of course The World Atlas of Wine has gone through many updates with the valuable input of Jancis Robinson from 2001 for the 5th edition that was 30 years after the first one. Subsequently the dynamic duo have released the 6th in 2007 and the current 7th in 2013 – “completely revised & updated”.
Wine lovers now have an increasing real desire to check out “terroir”. Accordingly there is valuable material out there both on line and in hard copy to help you determine the specific place that gives that unique character to the resulting wine produced from that site. This is a growing trend everywhere around the world. Interactive Vineyard Maps at vinous.com are excellent for Barolo and Barbaresco mapping and now also their latest Napa Valley series starting with the vineyards of Oakville and Pritchard Hill. Renowned wine cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti is on their wine team. Also check out Regional Wine Maps around the world at winefolly.com.
Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti wine proprietor of her family owned quality Tuscan winery Badia a Coltibuono dating back to 1846 was in Vancouver this month. Answering a question I asked her about the new Chianti Classico Gran Selezione classification she stated they are not participating in it currently but putting all their emphasis on producing pure Sangiovese from distinct specific vineyards instead. Their vineyards are located in the Monti in the southern section of Gaiole in Chianti. She pointed this out as she produced the amazing second edition (2016) detailed large map I Cru Di Enogea showing Vineyards and Production Zones for Chianti Classico DOCG edited by the same Alessandro Masnaghetti. It does an excellent job of helping your understanding of these regions starting clockwise at 12 o’clock heading southeast of Firenze with Greve, Radda, Gaiole, Castelnuovo Berardenga (most southerly at 6 on the clock just north of Siena), continuing northerly on the west side through Castellina, then Barberino, Tavarnelle and San Casciano all three Val di Pesa which includes the tiny Poggibonsi.
The extensive narrative on the back of the map is outstanding in explaining that “more than 18,000 acres (7300 hectares) of vineyards currently in production, extending over an overall surface area ten times as large: these figures give only the vaguest of ideas of the complexity of an appellation like Chianti Classico”. I like the modest guide note of “If it is true that the production of wine in Chianti Classico tied to specific places and areas is an historically documented fact, it is equally true that a traditions of vineyards considered to be crus is not as firmly rooted as in other wine producing zones. If we add to this fact the very important variability of soil types, of exposures, and of altitudes, it is easy to understand that the idea of tracing boundary lines quickly demonstrated itself to be a complicated task, and one by no means without pitfalls.”
Your scribe was so fascinated by this new revised mapping and explanation of Chianti Classico that Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti kindly gave to me her personal Map. Lucky me. For the rest of you interested in more detail of what makes this region so unique and special you will have to obtain your own copy. Recommend you look for more vineyard maps to study from the key wine regions around the world that interest you. Always an outstanding learning tool about wine!
For traditionalists, the idea of drinking wine from cans has always been seen as an anathema. While sales of beer, soda, and energy drinks have flourished from their association with aluminum, many oenophiles feel the metallic tastes that may result from this type of container are completely unsuited for the complexities of wine. Furthermore, the cherished ritual of uncorking that special bottle in front of friends and family doesn’t have quite the same impact when you replace it with a ring pull. And for decades, this mindset has dominated the marketplace as canned wine has represented less than 0.1 % of overall wine consumption in America. But this may be changing as Nielsen reports that sales of canned wine have increased by over 125% in the past year.
This surge in sales has been largely the result of millennials—a demographic group that represents approximately ninety million Americans that is growing at a rate of 10,000 people turning 21 every single day. Consuming nearly 160 million cases last year (roughly 42% of all wine sold in the United States), their impact has caused enormous ripples throughout industry. Not adhering to the rules and standards set by previous generations, their influence can be seen with such unorthodox products as blue wine, the abundance of flashy and colorful labels at the wine store, and the resurgence of rosé. So when Whole Foods predicted that canned wine would be one of the hottest trends of 2016, they clearly had their finger on the pulse of this transformative group.
Looking at the advantages of canned wine, convenience and portability tops the list, especially for those planning on going out this summer. Whether it’s picnics or days at the beach, drinking straight from the can is certainly more hassle free than having to haul a bottle, corkscrew, and several wine glasses around. According to one Harris poll, 73% of respondents said that having packaging that is easy to carry around is extremely important. And under the hot and humid sun, a cold refreshing beverage is always preferable. Having said that, it’s no surprise that sparkling wines, usually served chilled, have been the most popular choice, representing 90% of all canned wine purchases in 2012. However, this is changing rapidly as canned table wine sales have increased tenfold in just one year, doubling that of sparkling wines.
Unlike “Kan-O-Wine” and “Swiss Mist” of the 1950s and 1960s, this new era of canned wines have been able to connect with these younger consumers. Through hip and eye-catching graphics and a distribution model that makes them available at both local wine stores and trendy grocery stores, wineries selling their product in a can have begun convincing millennials that wine doesn’t have to be seen as old fashioned. According to the Business Insider, “With the rise of millennial wine drinkers comes a growing demand for wines that are more innovative and less expensive. Wine apps, wine slushies, wine ice cream — millennials are craving wine, and they want it presented in a different manner than prior generations.”
Question: I am confused about the many names of the 1855 Classification Fifth Growth Pauillac Estate called Château Armailhac part of the Mouton Rothschild wine stable. Would you please clarify it for me?
Answer: Good reason to be confused because of the history of the name. In 1933 Baron Philippe owner of Château Mouton Rothschild bought 99 acres of the nearby Château Mouton d’Armailhacq from the proprietor Comte de Ferrand. In 1956 to help differentiate it from the brandy named Armagnac and to fully connect it more closely to the family it was renamed Château Mouton Baron Philippe. Other important dates include in 1970 Baron Philippe buying another 5th growth Pauillac estate Château Clerc Milon and in 1973 Château Mouton Rothschild being elevated from a second cru in the 1855 classification to a premier cru. In 1976 his wife Baroness Philippe de Rothschild died and in homage to her work the name of Château Mouton Baron Philippe was changed to Château Mouton Baronne Philippe. Then in 1989 it was changed once again to the current name of Château d’Armailhac similar to that original name.
On Saturday we attended a dinner party at an IWFS Vancouver member’s home. Some excellent “Sicilian” themed dishes with matching wines were produced topped by a delicious fish stew that included cod, scallop, crab, mussel and clam all before the dessert course arrived. Surprise! Eight brownies purchased from some of Vancouver’s best bakeries were served “blind” with a tasting sheet and pencil for ranking them. This scribe is a dark chocolate addict and even has a stuffed toy bear that says “I love chocolate” every time you squeeze him. Last week also attended a special chocolate tasting by the quality Tuscan company Amedei (www.amedei.it) who transform the best cocoa beans from Madagascar to Venezuela, Ecuador to Jamaica, to the Caribbean islands of Trindad to Grenada into unique “terroir” creations. Liked the Ecuador ones. Also look for their classic “9” blended vineyards (75%), Porcelana, Chuao, and new Blanco de Criollo.
This tasting of Vancouver brownies was dessert heaven for me. Amazed at how different the 8 brownies showed. From a light flourless style to rich fudgy ones. Didn’t appreciate those that added noticeable oil, cocoa powder, too much sugar, or canned evaporated milk. Purity was best. The unanimous top two were the outstanding vegan one made by Beaucoup Bakery & Café 2150 Fir Street (corner of west 6th) using Valrhona chocolate to advantage closely followed by # 2 ranked Sweet Obsession 2611 west 16th with crunchy pecans & raspberries using Belgian chocolate. Check them out. If you are not able to do so then recommend making your own following this tried and true Joan Cross recipe that is really delicious:
Best Brownie Recipe:
10 oz. bittersweet chocolate (use at least 64%)
4 oz. unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
3 large eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup all purpose flour
Preheat oven to 325F ( 300F convection ).
Chop chocolate into 1/2 inch chunks. Melt 1/2 of the chocolate and all of the butter in a heat-proof bowl over barely simmering water until melted. Stir smooth & remove from the heat. In a bowl with a wooden spoon beat eggs, sugar, salt and vanilla until smooth. Add barely warm chocolate mixture. Add flour about 1/3 at a time stirring each addition just until blended. Add remaining chopped chocolate and mix until chunks are evenly distributed. Line bottom and sides of a 9 inch square pan with parchment paper draping over the rim a little. Scrape batter into pan and spread level. Bake just until surface develops a thin crust and fingertip pressed very gently in the centre leaves a soft depression. 20-25 minutes should be about right but do not overbake! Cool on rack for 1 hour. Lift out of pan with parchment. Cut into squares or triangles. Serve and enjoy. Option – garnish with lightly sweetened whipped cream, chopped fresh mint, and fresh raspberries. Another choice – a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce.
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