Ask Sid: Band-Aid Aromas?

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wine that tastes like a band aid

Question: I opened a red wine that smelled just like a box of Band-Aids in a jar of grape jam. What would cause that?

Answer: Quite a description! Not sure what your wine is but quite likely to be a young ripe Shiraz (or syrah) with that typical jammy sweet fruit that was tainted by the antiseptic-like notes of brett (brettanomyces). This is a wild yeast (pronounced brett-TAN-oh-MY-sees) that can provide some complexity at low levels but more usually gives lots of acedic acid with off odors like a Band-Aid smell. Also can intensify the flavours so is now being deliberately used in the making of some beers for that reason. Did you like the wine? Most tasters would consider it a fault.


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1982 Saint Julien AC Something Special

1982 Saint Julien AC Something Special
By Megan Mallen [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Fortunate this month to enjoy quite a few wines from Bordeaux of the 1982 vintage. I have been impressed by these beauties since their initial release at what turned out to be a very cheap price and their delicious drinking over the past 30+ years. They are of course now expensive and not always from well stored providence but they continue to amaze and can be of relatively good value compared to the high release price of current vintages available. Advanced vineyard methods including lower yields and cellar management with much less of the Grand Vin produced herald the more consistent recent vintages from say 2005, 2009, and 2010 than from 1982. However there still are some 1982 jewels that you may have hidden away for a special occasion or to be searched out for at auction.

Just had a superb bottle of 1982 Cheval Blanc from St. Emilion that has been my favourite from this vintage so far this year though 1982 Mouton Rothschild Pauillac made it a close race. St. Emilion was not the most successful appellation in 1982 but this particular bottle was still singing with complex rich full smooth opulence particularly in the mid palate and so balanced with integrated tannins. Neighbouring Pomerol is a more consistent AC in 1982 and La Conseillante served with the Cheval held its own particularly on the spectacular aromatic bouquet using the same grape mix of merlot & cab franc but in different ratios. I haven’t tried this year the impressive Petrus but have tried bottles of the other highly acclaimed First Growths including Latour, Lafite and La Mission Haut-Brion but they were not showing as 100 point bottles. Bottle variation!

However let’s leave the First Growths out of this. St Estephe are drinking well now with Montrose, Cos & Calon-Segur leading the AC. Graves & Margaux generally are less consistent in the 1982 vintage. There are other fantastic 1982s! Most Pauillac AC are outstanding now! Lucky to drink 1982 Grand Puy Lacoste quite often and it never seems to disappoint with the latest one tried showing explosive cedar tobacco with attractive complex round smooth textures. Just compared 78, 79, 82, and 83 Pichon Lalande and 82 beautifully ripe but given a close battle by the 83 in a different style. As I noted last year in my July 20 blog posting Jean-Michel Cazes says their “1982 Lynch Bages may have been consumed too early”.

My vote for best value most consistent AC in 1982 goes to Saint Julien. Served blind 4 top properties this month and all were impressive. Branaire-Ducru most advanced in colour and development but so elegant and marvellous currently. Leoville Barton classic deep more reluctant touch of iodine no rush but will improve further. Talbot a winner so solid with dense sweet black and herbal red fruits and approaching best plateau. Cordier big sister Gruaud Larose has more cedar cigar box but a tad rustic here – not the best bottle as usually is more outstanding! Other St Juliens not in this tasting all show exemplary now – led by Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Poyferre, Ducru Beaucaillou, Beychevelle, Langoa Barton, plus even St Pierre, Clos du Marquis, and Gloria. Treat yourself.


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A look back at Granholm v. Heald

Granholm vs Heald supreme court wine

By Joseph Temple

Of all the famous Supreme Court cases—from Marbury v. Madison to Bush v. Gore—there is one that oenophiles should be very familiar with: Granholm v. Heald, a landmark 5-4 decision in 2005 that completely changed the way consumers are able to purchase wine.  Dismantling an antiquated “three-tier” system that had been in place since the repeal of Prohibition, this decision finally gave wine lovers the ability to buy their favorite vintage across state lines.  The red tape that had existed for decades (and made little sense in the age of the internet) was finally ripped to shreds.  But to understand the importance of this case, you first need to understand the context behind the decision.

While the Twenty-first Amendment ended the “noble experiment” known as Prohibition, legislators also threw a curveball known as Section 2, which states, “The transportation or importation into any State, Territory, or possession of the United States for delivery or use therein of intoxicating liquors, in violation of the laws thereof, is hereby prohibited.”  Essentially, states interpreted it to mean that they alone were the supreme authority when it came to all things related to alcohol.  So while national Prohibition officially ended in 1933, many states continued the practice with Mississippi being the last one to repeal its laws in 1966.  Of course, some states handed jurisdiction over to the local counties and municipalities—hence the term “dry county.”

Additionally, with fifty different sets of laws, what became known as a three-tier system was established by the wine industry, which regulated how their product reached the consumer.  Going from the winery to the wholesaler, and then on to the retailer, this system puts an enormous amount of power in the wholesaler’s hands.  As the middlemen, they determined which wines ended up on the shelves, leaving the door wide open for corruption and kickbacks.

Then came the Internet.

With wineries establishing e-commerce sites, consumers could now buy from the vineyard online, eliminating the entire role of the wholesaler.  And with websites tearing down the traditional barriers, a much greater selection was now available, allowing someone to have wines that weren’t available at the local shop shipped to them directly.

Attempting to turn back the clock, some states fought back against these new practices.  Two in particular—Michigan and New York—passed laws allowing in-state wineries to ship directly to consumers but banning out-of-state wineries from doing the same.  In what can only be seen as a flagrant attempt at unconstitutional protectionism, Eleanor Heald and her fellow oenophiles argued that the two states had violated the Dormant Commerce Clause, which states that Congress has the sole power to regulate commerce between the states.

which states allow you to order out of state wines

After nearly a decade of battling in the courts, the Supreme Court began hearing arguments from both sides in December of 2004.  Less than two months later, the majority ruled in favor of out-of-state wineries, agreeing that the Twenty-first Amendment did not supersede the Commerce Clause. More than a decade after this decision, all but seven states have enacted some form of direct wine shipping.  However, since the states have autonomy over this matter, they still have the power to ban all forms of direct shipping, which several have done.  And matters such as the volume shipped and other requirements are still within their jurisdiction.  But without question, this case has definitely made it a lot easier to purchase your favorite wines online.  So the next time you place a website order and have it shipped via courier, you can thank the highest court in the land.

Sources:

Frank, Mitchell. (2016, August 2). How Wine Got Caught Between Commerce and States’ Rights. Wine Spectator. Retrieved from http://www.winespectator.com
Özer
, Özalp & Phillips, Robert. The Oxford Handbook of Pricing Management. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2012.
Taylor, Robert. (2014, July 14). U.S. Wine Shipping Laws, State by State. Wine Spectator. Retrieved from http://www.winespectator.com

Zraly, Kevin.  Windows on the World Complete Wine Course. New York: Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 2006.


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Ask Sid: Lees stirring

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Lees stirring batonnage
By Agne27 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: What is the difference between the stirring of the lees that fall to the bottom of a wine cask and batonnage?

Answer: No difference. Batonnage is the French term used for this stirring of the fine lees that settle to the bottom of the container (usually a wooden cask) holding the unfinished unfiltered wine in progress. Some believe that this procedure helps produce richer wines. However there is a growing group of winemakers that feel this opening of the container with vigorous stirring of the juice promotes earlier oxidation (pre-mox issues) and is to be avoided. This concern has resulted in a third school of thinking which wants mixing of the lees but not with air exposure. They instead either roll the closed barrels (Bouchard Pere) or inject CO2 gas in by a tube to mix it up (Lucien Le Moine). This whole area of cellar procedures involving stirring of the lees (or batonnage) needs some new catchwords to accurately describe what is actually being done by the winemaker.


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Traveller’s Guide 2016: Relais & Chateau

Traveller's Guide 2016: Relais & Chateau

So many choices out there these days for your hotel and restaurant bookings. On line bookings are easy and ever expanding. Branding and consolidation are the buzz words in the hotel industry. Look at the recent merger of Marriott & Starwood to become the world’s biggest hotel company with over 5500 locations and 1 million rooms. How do you choose where to stay on your travels?

On the other end of the scale are the smaller more unique “boutique” hotels. Lots of printed material out there to assist you with your choices including for example the popular red Michelin Guide. One book I enjoy picking up every year that is FREE is the useful compact white covered Traveller’s Guide published by Relais & Chateau (www.relaischateau.com). Their new 2016 Collection of 264 pages spotlights 540 worthy properties on 5 continents in 60 countries. Like their appropriate description for the unique world of Relais & Chateau as “a united family whose members all share …a place where they cultivate a particular art of living.” It is always interesting to review the section in which the new members (this year 38 of them) are welcomed including internationally renowned chefs. A wonderful new feature this year is the creation of 50 “Routes du Bonheur” (www.relaischateau.com/us/destinations/routes-du-bonheur) detailing thought provoking ideas for your next wine and food vacation with some helpful itinerary maps. Wide ranging suggested regions to explore including the vineyards of Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux (comments from Jean-Michel Cazes of Chateau Lynch-Bages) and the Douro Valley. The bike tour in Provence looks enticing as well as the Castles of the South of Ireland. Highly recommend you pick up a copy to peruse from a Relais & Chateau property near you! Enjoy.


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