Question: What is the latest news on possible increased use of a lighter weight wine bottle for sustainable purposes?
Answer: A most topical question you have raised as much attention continues to be given to this matter presently. Perhaps wineries are not the worst contributors to carbon/CO2 emissions in the total overall world picture but nonetheless helping the sustainable campaign plus making an important policy support statement should be made by the wine industry. Glass production at high temperatures does result in CO2 emissions and heavier glass causes even more. Also the transportation of wine in those glass bottles is becoming an ever bigger issue which is increased further by heavier weight. Lots is happening. See the Sustainable Wine Roundtable Report here. The latest news is the strong leadership position taken by high-profile Laura Catena as reported in The Drinks Business here.
Many vertical wine tastings have been reported here but fewer opportunities arise for a horizontal focus on just one vintage from several properties. A wonderful dinner event #121 by the Vancouver Group of Eight on April 30, 2024 at Blue Water Cafe did just that with eight Left Bank top classified Bordeaux Chateaux to compare from 1985 – now nearing 40 years of age. The 1985 Vintage started off with some of the coldest temperatures (-15C in January) since the infamous 1956 Bordeaux frosts with rainy cooler weather to follow until a hot July, cool but dry August and hot sunny dry September/October. Harvest at the end of September generally favoured mature ripe Merlot (and the Right Bank) but those that patiently waited till mid-October or so brought in better Cab Sauv & Cab Franc. The wines showed early charm and roundness with less weight (than the following 1986) with comparisons being made with 1959 & 1953.
This pleasurable evening commenced comparing two young outstanding 2012 LOUIS ROEDERER Champagnes – the CRISTAL Brut & CRISTAL Brut ROSE. Both were fresh with the Rose showing more vibrant explosive bubbles plus even more Pinot Noir weight & earlier flavour interest. The Cristal Brut shows a somewhat reluctant pure bouquet but has noble “dynamic effervescence” with power just needing some time to develop that renown delicate hazelnut creaminess. Liked the House description for the Rose as “the elegance of a Degas ballerina” which was shown aptly by both bubbles. Historic 1876 transparent lead crystal flat bottom bottles with gold wrapping come in impressive packaging but the contents are to be greatly admired too.
The eight Left Bank 1985 wines followed in two flights:
1985 CHÂTEAU SAINT-PIERRE: Underrated Domaines Henri Martin of Chateau Gloria is the first of 4 St. Juliens to compare in this flight. Lighter mature forward spice is charming in a more rustic way. Ready.
1985 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE BARTON: Darker with clean fruit (no property signature “iodine” here) is supple and silky mellow. First one solely made by Anthony Barton (after his uncle Ronald). Presently on a lovely plateau of enjoyment. No rush.
1985 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE: Mid-colour paler edge. Less Cabernet Sauvignon here than the other St. Juliens but the crop seems stretched without the concentrated depth of their outstanding vintages in 1986 and 1982.
1985 CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU: Textbook St. Julien with graphite, cedar, and black currant fruit. Makes a statement confirming the amazing balanced longevity of top Bordeaux even in the less powerful years. Perhaps it could have more complexity and length but is so delicious. Clear impressive winner of this first flight.
1985 CHATEAU LYNCH BAGES: Lighter weight than expected from this excellent Pauillac property plus this bottle has as touch of brett. More in an elegant softer minty style than the usual cigar box cedar. Have enjoyed better bottles of this 1985. OK
1985 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES: A fifth St. Julien tasted that is darkest with by far the most impressive structured concentration of lead pencil fruit. So classy with harmonious charm. Will develop even further complexity and roundness. Wow! Wine of the night.
1985 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Quite a bit lighter than expected. Admire the balance of this herbal elegant charming First Growth Pauillac. Opened exquisitely with more subtle perfumes on the bouquet in the glass but needs more fruit intensity. Approachable now. Nothing similar to their outstandingly complex 1959 or 1953.
1985 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Clear brilliant look with no fine sediment from decanting. Seductive bouquet with bright elegant satiny blend (including Cab Franc & Petit Verdot) but seems to be missing the big Cab Sauv intensity fruit statement of 2005, 2009, and 2010. Their First Growth website states 1985 as “always been very pleasant to drink” and “first struck by the delicacy and charm of the particularly round and silky tannins”. Well summed up as “is one of our most appealing vintages and it seems to be at its peak”. Prefer the higher potential of the austere powerful 1986. Enjoy 1985 now and in the near future.
Finished up with the ready 1982 CHATEAU SUDUIRAUT which is rich sweet apricot & yuzu marmalade without botrytis but a beautiful late harvest Sauternes for using now with a tasty honey quince crepe or other dessert.
Question: Heard about the Okanagan BC cold snap in January 2024 (following the one in December 2022) that substantially damaged vineyards. What about frost this year in Europe?
Answer: Yes this is the time of year to worry about frost affecting grapevines. Recall those bad 2016 ones in Chablis. April 2024 has already seen threats in Bordeaux and elsewhere. Parts of Europe had a warmer winter which encouraged early grape bud shoots. Germany had a record very warm March followed by destructive frost last week of April 2024. Early reports of damage are quite extreme. Monitor the 2024 German crop volumes affecting even the usual hardy Riesling.
Jim Robertson & his wife Milena are longtime leaders of the Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society. They are also knowledgeable aficionados of the wines of Portugal including Porto and generously share this among their wide circle of friends. April 24, 2024 was an inspired port tasting showing an amazing collection of Taylor Fladgate six top Tawny Ports plus six Classic Vintage ones. Host Jim Robertson led this memorable event assisted by Cynthia Opsal The Fladgate Partnership Brand Ambassador & Key Account Manager with Pacific Wine & Spirits Inc. and the most insightful Leagh Barkley, a true Master of Port winning a challenging Canadian competition in 2022.
Your scribe also has been fortunate to attend many extensive Port tastings especially during the eighties and nineties hosted in San Francisco by the incomparable Haskell Norman, President of the Marin County IWFS usually assisted by Barney Rhodes. Remember well his horizontal of 1945 Vintage Ports held on January 24, 1988 where the unanimous winner was a drier powerful classy Taylor (Bottled by O.W.Loeb, Imported by Esquin) over a sweeter rounder second place Graham both having the most depth of colour in the grouping. Most nostalgic for me were the glorious memories of sixteen Taylor Vintage Ports in two flights from 1967 to 1947 and 1945 to 1896 (1927 slightly ranked ahead of 1945). The First Flight had the complex 1948 as unanimous winner followed by 1963 & 1955 and interesting to note that 1966, 1963, (both imported by Corti Bros.) and 1960 (imported by Connoisseur Imports) were all bottled at Taylor (not always the case in those early days).
The Robertson extravaganza started off with six exquisite delicious Tawny Ports with detailed notes attached. A few bonus comments:
10 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Red, lots of fresher fruit left, not nutty 20 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Amber pale, popular age, lovely mellowness 30 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Similar but more viscous, nutty, curry notes 40 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Surprising dark sediment, dried fruits, softer GOLDEN AGE 50: Toasty rich smooth textured balanced flavours VVOP – VERY VERY OLD PORT: Smoky cardamom spice, elegance and finesse delivered in an awesome cherished decanter!
Very impressive flight indeed and you are likely to find the style you appreciate most. No volatile acidity issues. Surprising sediment thrown in the 40 which didn’t expect after that long time in wood and being racked before bottling. Admire all the differences. Can Tawny be aged too long in wood? Will we see 60 or 75 next? Leagh made a smart point that Tawny Port is influenced by the House style but relies mainly on the “by hand blending” of components compared to Vintage Port based on the “Terroir” and early bottling of big fruit after two years.
Six Classic Vintage Ports followed:
1960 VINTAGE PORT: Very pale, stylish balsamic notes, medicinal, mature. Also was mature in 1984 at 24 years but still is holding on 40 years later at 64 years of age. Amazing longevity of Vintage Port.
1963 VINTAGE PORT: Red middle aged rim, fragrant open lovely tertiary bouquet but high acidity with an edgy fiery finish. Showed even better in 1984 and since. Spirit is starting to dominate the fruit?
1966 VINTAGE PORT: Much darker red tones than 1963 but with a rather reluctant nose at first. Has deep fresh rich fruit opening with time in the glass. Smooth and balanced & so complex. Clear winner of the Flight. Amazed how these 1966s continue to improve and admire their slow advancing development in the bottle. Same result recently with 1966 Fonseca & Graham both showing well against their more hyped older sibling 1963.
1970 VINTAGE PORT: Younger very dark deep look. Big bruiser but a touch of cardboardy VA musty fruit that clears somewhat. Good structure. There are better cleaner bottles.
1975 VINTAGE PORT: Pale light year shows. Not a classic year but a lovely more delicate style for drinking now.
1977 VINTAGE PORT: Dark but less red colour than 1970. Disappoints with corky TCA – surprising as I thought Portugal kept all their best corks for Vintage Port! Classic concentration of excellent fruit shows through nonetheless. Bad bottle. Experienced excellent 1977 Taylor Port on other occasions. On a plateau of enjoyment.
All these ports showed even more spectacularly when paired with roasted pistachios and warm toasted walnuts. A joy. Leigh suggested because of the sweetness Port matches really well with dishes containing chicory, radicchio, arugula, or other bitter lettuces. Try it. What a treat.
Question: Would you please give me your best wine definition of the word Terroir?
Answer: Yes this has been quite difficult to get a definitive unanimous all-inclusive correct answer. OIV (The International Organization of Vine and Wine) has the best one I have seen and suggests this:
Vitivinicultural “terroir” is a concept which refers to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the identifiable physical and biological environment and applied vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive characteristics for the products originating from this area. “Terroir” includes specific soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features.
