Question: Would you kindly simply summarize the regions of Valpolicella in Italy and the wines produced?
Answer: In Veneto Italy north of Verona there are 3 Valpolicella DOC designated regions: Valpolicella, Valpolicella “Classico” & Valpolicella “Valpantena”.
Four blended wines are produced from Corvina & Corvinone (both a minimum of 45% to a maximum 95%) and Rondinella (5-30) & Molinara (0-10) grapes:
1) Valpolicella DOC (27% of total production)
2) Valpolicella Ripasso DOC (47%) – a re-fermentation of Valpolicella plus the leftover marc from Amarone production.
3) Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG – dried grapes used results in increased sugar levels and higher alcohol for longer aging.
4) Recioto Della Valpolicella DOCG – dried grapes with stopped fermentation results in a sweeter wine. The last two wines are 26% of the total production.
The Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia (@ChefsTableBC) founded in 2004 is an inspiring force on the Canadian culinary scene. One of their important projects is the annual #SpotPrawnFestival held each May with The Pacific Prawn Fishermen’s Association (PPFA) to celebrate this unique seafood product. It is now a well-established, popular, fun event held at False Creek Fisherman’s Wharf in Vancouver – this year on Sunday May 28, 2023. Jammed from 11 am to 3 pm with visitors on the docks watching free cooking demos and almost 1000 enjoyed for $10 a big 8-ounce bowl of #BCSpotPrawn (SP) delicious bisque with a freshly baked bun all led by Chef Robert Clark and Organic Ocean. Also sold out 500 tickets at $79 for two different brunch services that included six innovative SP grazing dishes with samples of wine, beer, and non-alcoholic beverages plus Rain or Shine 4 flavours of ice cream: Rhubarb Custard, Malted Milk Honeycomb, Vegan Vanilla, and London Fog. Lots of participating chefs plus cooking school volunteers were all working hard to make it possible. Well done. Congrats. One of the big impressions made on this volunteer scribe was the diversity of the outstanding SP dishes prepared. There is posted on spotprawnfestival.com some excellent further information describing what an SP is and some proven helpful recipes. Also some good photos of the Chefs on the CTS Instagram. Your scribe believes this was the best selection of tasty SP dishes ever presented at our Festival and here are descriptions and photos of some of them:
There was one grilled BBQ presentation at both sessions carefully done to get a little smoke flavour but quickly so the SP was not overcooked:
-BBQ GRILLED SP THAI PAPAYA SALAD TARE PRAWN CRACKER by STEVE KUAN of TORAFUKU. Tare is a Japanese dipping sauce of soya, mirin & sugar.
-GRILLED SP GFCO TORTILLA AVOCADO SLAW by JEN PETERS & HAMID SALIMIAN of GOOD FLOUR CO
-SP “THERMIDOR” GRUYERE GOUGERE SPRING ONION by BOBBY MILHERON OF TABLEAU, MAXIME’S, HOMER ST. CAFE
-SP CEVICHE PRAWN AIOLI WONTON CRISP SEAWEED by TOMMY SHORTHOUSE of FANNY BAY OYSTERS BAR & SHELLFISH MARKET
-POPCORN SHRIMP CITRUS POACHED SP POPCORN CONFIT GARLIC OIL CRUMB AVOCADO BASIL MOUSSE SAVOY CABBAGE DAIKON APPLE SAFFRON GASTRIQUE PROSCIUTTO CRISP by LAURA MESSINGER & CURTIS LUK of THE FARMHOUSE
– SEA POACHED SP PRAWN COCONUT CREMA MANGO SALAD KELP CRACKER by DAVID LEE of VANCOUVER AQUARIUM
-POACHED BC SP CONSOMME RHUBARB PEAS by LINA CASCHETTO of SAY HEY CAFE
-KOREAN SP SALAD DIJON DRESSING TOASTED ALMONDS PERILLA (a traditional Chinese “minty” herb) by JIWON SEO of BAR GOBO
-LEMONGRASS BUTTER POACHED SP TARRAGON & PEA VELOUTE FAVA BEAN & BOAR BACON SUCCOTASH by WARREN CHOW of WILDLIGHT KITCHEN & BAR
SP are big feature hits at many Vancouver restaurants all this month. Here is an impressive dish your scribe just enjoyed at La Quercia with Tajarin pasta and about to be served Bisque. Delicious!
Question: Is Trebbiano a respected white grape variety?
Answer: Well yes & no! Lots of respect for Trebbiano Abruzzese when it is timely harvested in the Abruzzo region of central eastern Italy producing a very good white wine indeed. However, generally there are just too many versions of Trebbiano that are mass-produced from high yields into simple table wines that are not impressive. Also somewhat confusing as many Trebbiano grapes globally go under different names like Ugni Blanc in France – including for brandy and Cognac production.
The Gambero Rosso International are on their 2023 World Tour stopping in Vancouver on Friday June 2, 2023. Their extensive Vini D’Italia 2023 yearly (now 26th edition since 1988) Wine Guide is out claiming to review the amazing total of 2626 wineries in Italy of 25421 wines with 455 Tre Bicchieri (3 Glass) awards. Also includes a useful Vintage Guide by region that interestingly shows for this Century the very highest ratings for both Barolo & Barbaresco in only 2016, 2013, 2010, and 2001. They presented a special Masterclass of 12 representative Italian wines conducted by Senior Editor Marco Sabellico:
VILLA SANDI: Cartizze Brut La Rivetta 2022-Veneto. Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG Extra Brut (only 3g/l sugar- new trend)
TENUTA BORGO CONVENTI: Collio Bianco Luna di Ponca 2019-Friuli Venezia Giulia. Blend Friulano Chardonnay & Malvasia – elegant 13.7 abv
MONVIERT: FCO Ribolla Gialla Ris. 2019- Friuli Venezia Giulia. Autoctono grape variety on 100% Ribolla Gialla vines planted 2000-Dry
ITALO CESCON: Madre 2019-Veneto. Organic Manzoni Bianco is balanced with vitality and lees aging
FRESCOBALDI: Chianti Rufina Terraelectae V. Montesodi 2019-Tuscany. Sangiovese at 400 metres on schist soils shows ripe freshness.
SAN FELICE: Chianti Classico 2020-Tuscany. Value for full body cherry/plum Sangiovese
FAMIGLIA CECCHI: Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Villa Rosa 2018- Tuscany. 15 months French oak with good spice acidity. No rush.
TENUTE DEL CERRO: Nobile di Montepulciano Silineo 2019-Tuscany. Full rich and creamy at a reasonable price.
POGGIO LE VOLPI: Baccarossa 2020-Lazio. Lots of colour from Nero Buono grape variety. Ripe balsamico styling.
TORREVENTO: Castel del Monte Rosso V. Pedale Ris. 2016- Puglia. Nero di Troia planted in vineyards shows a warmer, richer, more generous body in a slightly rustic character. Approachable now.
TORRACCIA DEL PIANTAVIGNA: Ghemme 2015-Piedmont. Excellent value region on the move after Roberto Conterno’s purchase of Nervi Gattinara in 2018. LIghter than the Sangiovese with a big tannic presence requiring patience. Here 90% Nebbiolo + 10% Vespolina.
GIACOMO BORGOGNO & FIGLI: Barolo Ris. 2015-Piedmont. More depth of Nebbiolo fruit with structure and patient ageability needed. Some finesse on the nose is already slowly developing in the glass. More time needed to come together.
Question: What about 2023 Spring frosts in North American vineyards?
Answer: Yes, frost is becoming an increasingly difficult issue almost everywhere for grape growing vineyards. Earlier bud break and shoot growth makes the vines more susceptible than before to dangerous Spring frost-freezing damage. Check out the last decade in Chablis. Losses vary a lot by individual vineyard sites but at least grape vines are able to produce a second bloom compared to fruit trees – like apple & peach – which can’t. The month of May saw widespread frost damage in the Eastern regions of North America with New York Finger Lakes very badly hit with obviously a much reduced anticipated wine production for 2023. Continue to monitor the results. Another important freezing concern is extremely cold winter temperatures that affect the production of the vines. Winemaker Severine Pinte & Managing Partner Rasoul Salehi of Le Vieux Pin & La Stella in the South Okanagan tell me that their impressive Syrah vines have been very badly affected by the extremely cold prolonged winter temperatures with up to nearly 100% loss for 2023. They may have to diversify further in the future to include hardier grape varieties. Worrisome.