Your scribe has been fortunate to study the 2015 vintage of red Bordeaux at two horizontal tastings within a month. The first of nine wines for the March 17 IWFS Vancouver event is linked here, with more details. A second selection featured six higher classification wines with three each from the Right Bank and the Left Bank. La Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver organized the event on April 17 at The Vancouver Club, led by Le Maitre Fred Withers and Cellarmaster Alvin Nirenberg. The first session, featuring more affordable wines gave an impression of freshness with variability though the star was a Margaux Fourth Growth Chateau Marquis De Terme. Again, the Margaux appellation showed regional favour in 2015 with an excellent Chateau Kirwan. Look for additional Margaux wines from the 2015 vintage!
This black tie affair started with 2013 Joseph Perrier La Côte à Bras Brut Nature Vintage Champagne from a six generation House in Chalons-en-Champagne, founded in 1825. Since 2007 they have focused on this single, south-facing vineyard in Cumières, which has clay-limestone soil: 100% Pinot Noir planted in 1982 in Parcel A H 83. The 2013 vintage, which arrived mainly in October, favoured the Chardonnay grape but this production of 7568 bottles of Pinot Noir shows well. With zero dosage and long aging on the lees, it displays peachy salty fruit plus citrus & orange acidity—all interesting combinations. The dessert wine was 2008 Chateau Coutet (derived from the Gascon word for “knife”) from Barsac, 14% ABV, with freshness & subtle minerality paired appropriately with the pear tart.
The main 2015 feature was in two flights with my brief comments:
2015 CHATEAU CANON-LA-GAFFELIERE SAINT-EMILION Premier Grand Cru Classe from Comtes von Neipperg, composed of organically farmed 55% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc, and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 17 months in 55% new oak at 14% ABV. It was highly applauded upon release, ranking #2 on Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year Top 100 List. Young dark look with prominent, open Cabernet aromas, featuring accessible, round, plush plums in a modern style. Attractive and deliciously drinkable.
2015 CHATEAU CANON SAINT-EMILION Owned by Chanel since 1996, this Premier Grand Cru Classé is composed of 72% Merlot & 28% Cabernet Franc aged 18 months in 70% new oak at 15% ABV. Nicolas Auderbert and his team grow this on the clay-limestone plateau of St. Emilion in a more classic balanced style. This impressive, ripe velvety Merlot shows rich, round, complex cherry notes and spiciness, with full structure provided by the Cabernet Franc. It shows elegance and finishing length. Development will continue. Group favourite.
2015 CHATEAU LE GAY POMEROL Vignobles Pere-Verge picked this highest 90% Merlot & 10% Cabernet Franc from Pomerol between September 27 and October 8; it spent 18 months in 100% new oak at 14.5% ABV. Lovely, but it seems less fragrant, less densely opulent, and less charming than expected for a top Pomerol in this vintage. More oaky herbaceous notes for me. Enjoy it now. Not in the league of outstanding quality from an exceptional 2015 Pomerol group that includes Vieux Chateau Certan, La Conseillante & L’Evangile.
2015 CHATEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE PESSAC-LEOGNAN Double celebration vintage for the 650th anniversary of SHL & the 25th Vendange of the Cathiards. Sadly Daniel Cathiard passed away this past January but the fantastic Florence brilliantly carries on, along with their longtime winemaker, Fabien Teitgen. This vintage is a great tribute to the whole team and their outstanding dedicated development success of this amazing Estate. They used 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot with 65% new oak for this 14.5% ABV beauty. Shows some typical sous bois but with many more exotic cherry, plum, mocha, and graphite notes, all so creamy lush. Congrats!
2015 CHATEAU LYNCH BAGES PAUILLAC Famille J-M Cazes used 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, and the remaining 6% for Cabernet Franc & Petit Verdot in 75% new oak at 13.5% ABV. This big powerful Pauillac has acidity and tannins well structured for further aging. Nick Wright found it “a bit tighter.” St. Estephe had Fall weather issues in 2015 and Pauillac & St. Julien were more variable but this is a good one. Your scribe likes the rich minty classic character of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Patience.
2015 CHATEAU KIRWAN MARGAUX Schroder & Schyler, managed by Jean Henri Schyler until his death in 2016, is now run by his three children: Yann, Sophie, and Nathalie. Here: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc & 5% Petit Verdot, aged for 18 months in 50% new oak at 13.5% ABV – for the first time in the new cellars. Picking commenced on September 18 with yields just over 50 hl/ha with Eric Boissenet as Consultant. This Kirwan improves every time I try it, confirming the top quality seen in 2015 due to favourable weather conditions for the Margaux AC – just like in 1983. Admire the flowers, spice, and classy elegance all in harmony. Balanced. Well done indeed. It is not as big or silky a wine as the opulent 2015 Marquis de Terme. Try some interesting 2015 red Bordeaux.
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