In Vancouver, we are blessed with passionate wine enthusiasm from consumers. Just look at the longevity of the Vancouver International Wine Festival, which just celebrated its 47th year with the 48th already fixed for the week of March 8, 2027. However another important underdog wine event named Top Drop is making inspired steady progress. Sommelier Kurtis Kolt and wine importer Jeff Curry co-founded the first one in 2014 with 24 wineries and just completed last week the best one yet with 70. It sort of reminds me of the Avis Rent a Car ads from the sixties that focused against #1 Hertz: “When you’re only #2, you try harder.” Indeed, the whole Top Drop team (with charitable BC Hospitality) has worked hard to seek out smaller quality wine producers from around the world, emphasizing fine wine crafted from distinct terroirs. Such a remarkably diverse selection made it easy to find something for everyone’s preference, including your scribe. A few of the many highlights for me:
LEGRAS & HAAS CHAMPAGNE: It’s always fun to discover a new Champagne House with this one established in 1991 and now run by three brothers: Remi, Olivier, and Jerome Legras. I have visited Nicolas Feuillatte several times in Chouilly (a Grand Cru village in the Cote des Blancs) and know historic Pierre Legras but this is the first time I’ve tasted this grower-producer, who was showing four different good-value cuvées:
Institution: 51% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 14% Meunier (no malo) with 25% Reserve wines using a 2022 base, disgorged 04/2024 with a 6g/l dosage at $69
Institution Rose: 58% Chardonnay, 19% Pinot Noir, and 12% Meunier plus 11% red Pinot Noir added using a 2021 base, disgorged 01/2024 with a 6g/l dosage at $69
Blanc de Blancs Les Visions: 100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru Chouilly using a 2021 base, disgorged 10/2024 with a 6g/l dosage at $75. It clearly shows the creamy, ripe Chouilly terroir plus balance.
Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2018: 100% Chardonnay Grand Cru Chouilly from 2018, which they call “sun & soil,” disgorged 01/2025 with a 7.1g/l dosage at $99. Lovely richness.
SYNCHROMESH: Enjoyed revisiting Alan Dickinson who has done a brilliant job developing complex, site-driven Rieslings from Storm Haven Vineyard in Okanagan Falls British Columbia, since 2010. Remember an earlier Top Drop tasting where he clearly showed me the vibrant higher acidity of the 2016 vintage versus the rounder, softer 2015s. This time he offered his wonderful 2025 vintage, and we were pleased to taste them before they are quickly sold out. I always admire their top Storm Haven label Riesling, clone 21B on 3309 rootstock from Block 2 (planted 2010) and Block 3 (planted 2006). In 2025 Block 2 is 10.11% ABV (cellar 2024-2040) and Block 3 is 7.82% ABV (cellar 2024-2053). Alan’s very apt comments on them are: Block 2 “Taste: lychee, pear, gooseberry, & lemon curd with Structure: medium body, soft texture, and rounded acidity for an almost dry finish,” and for Block 3 “Taste: mango, candied ginger, ripe peach, high viscosity, dried apricot and seamless balance with Structure: intense complex acidity and viscosity that integrates to a very long off-dry finish.” Recommend early purchase.
GUNDERLOCH: Founded in 1890 by Carl Gunderloch, I was impressed by my discussions with Owner-Winemaker Johannes Hasselbach (the 6th generation of the Gunderloch family) and his excellent dry Nackenheim Rothenberg (steep, SE facing) Riesling Grosses Gewächs, featuring both the young 2024 vintage (from certified organically grown grapes) and the aged 2010 vintage. Johannes’s father, Fritz, was one of the pioneers of GGs. I found the 2024 had riper fruit, but it is still delicately complex with a lingering finish. It needs time. Johannes states: “Concentration of white peach, pink grapefruit and hibiscus flavours.” The classic 2010 shows balanced elegance with long mineral notes drinking beautifully today.
Also checked out the family estate Weingut THORLE (dating back to the 16th century) with principal Christoph Thorle from Rheinhessen, Germany. Their limestone subsoil produces worthy Rieslings and elegant Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir).
LA CHABLISIENNE & PASCAL BOUCHARD: As a big Chablis fan, I liked that Top Drop featured two producers. LA CHABLISIENNE has been a cooperative since 1923, comprising hundreds of growers and holding the largest share in Grand Cru Grenouilles. I tasted five very representative pure vibrant Chardonnays from those unique limestone soils ranging in price from $30 to $145. PASCAL BOUCHARD poured six excellent value wines, including some from the nearby emerging regions of Saint Bris (Sauvignon Blanc), Vezelay (Chardonnay), and Irancy (Pinot Noir). Educational.
SADIE FAMILY: This amazing winery established in 1999 in Swartland South Africa by winemaker/viticulturist Eben Sadie was the highpoint for many at Top Drop. Legendary white blend aromatic Palladius (many grape varieties), and the sensual, harmonious red Columella (Shiraz with Mourvèdre) were very popular. Boutique Wines is bringing some of the 2023 wines we tasted into this marketplace. Fortunate to drink the impressive complex 2018 Columella at dinner last month; it is young and aging well. Perfect Top Drop selection.
DIEGO CONTERNO: I finished my insightful tastings with many red wine producers, especially Italian ones. AURELIO SETTIMO offered six typical Piedmont selections, including three from Barolo, featuring an outstanding vintage 2019 Riserva from Rocche Dell’Annunziata. DIEGO CONTERNO is another Conterno to be reckoned with, welcomed by Stefano Conterno. Also this week another Conterno visited Vancouver: Franco Conterno with Cascina Sciulun in Monforte D’Alba. Previously your scribe visited Giacomo Conterno, Conterno Fantino, and Paolo Conterno in Piedmont. Conterno is certainly a very popular but confusing name in Piedmont wines. Olivier Brands Ltd is bringing these new wines to us, including well-made ageable Barolo from the top Ginestra vineyard.
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