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Question: Do you celebrate Christmas Eve tonight with any food tradition?
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Question: Do you celebrate Christmas Eve tonight with any food tradition?
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Lots of festive holiday events this month. Hope you are enjoying some wonderful ones with your family and friends wherever you live. In Vancouver one of the year end best functions is the Christmas Dinner organized by Milena & Jim Robertson for our International Wine & Food Society Branch.
On December 15 of this year was another classy success held at the Terminal City Club for a dinner prepared by Executive Chef Dan Creyke and his brigade. Also we were fortunate to have the marvellous knowledgeable DJ Kearney their Wine Director comment in detail on the matching wines.
Both enjoyable and educational for all of us. The excellent menu with matching wines is posted with this write-up. A few brief insights on the wines served:
NV CHAMPAGNE BRUT BRUNO GOBILLARD A grower Champagne in Pierry around Epernay from well maintained old vines showing creamy well balanced styling.
2019 CHABLIS DESSUS LA CARRIÈRE GILBERT PICQ & SES FILS Top producer from a special Chablis AC Cuvee of older vines in the lower yielding 2019 vintage that reminds me of 2015. Found this with fresher salinity a few years ago but now seems rich, rounder and much softer. Lots of density but mature bottles here so best to drink now before 2020 or 2022 vintages. Matches well with the Beet Salad course.
2021 CHÂTEAU CARBONNIEUX BLANC Underrated Bordeaux blend of 65 Sauvignon Blanc & 35 Semillon produced in oak barrels (25% new) showing spicy floral citrus with refreshing structure. Pairs lovely with the Sturgeon dish. No rush and will develop with further aging showing more of the Semillon.
2009 CHÂTEAU GLORIA A wonderful great value unclassified St. Julien harvested (around 60/70 Cab Sauv) September 24-October 8 from the excellent 2009 ripe vintage that was aged in 40% new oak for 14 months. Great memories of founder-owner legendary Henri Martin (who died in 1991) visiting Vancouver in 1977 to establish our local branch of La Commanderie de Bordeaux. Estate has expanded greatly from an original small 6 hectares in 1942 to about 50 now by acquiring classified St. Julien plots. The current proprietor is his daughter Francoise & son-in-law Jean-Louis Triaud and their third generation children This 2009 shows amazing open pure St. Julien terroir in a juicy generous sweeter integrated tannins style. So delicious right now at the beginning of a long life on this delightful plateau. Wine of the Night!
2012 ZINFANDEL LUST MICHAEL-DAVID VINEYARDS A full Lodi California Zinfandel produced from choice small lots plus a little Petite Sirah blended in with 70% in American oak for 18 months & 30% in French oak for 10 months. Nice to have some bottle age on this dry ripe vintage that makes a big peppery spice powerful statement at 15.5 abv that works with the flavourful cheeses.
1988 GRAHAM PORTO VINTAGE MALVEDOS In undeclared years Graham bottles their Vintage Port as single quinta Malvedos. This one comes highly regarded as the first Portuguese wine that made the Top 100 Wines of the World by Wine Spectator. Smooth plummy with spicy fig notes is lighter than regular declared year Graham Vintage and drinking forwardly now – even paired nicely with an appropriate chocolate dessert.
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Question: A few of us have been discussing the aging potential of Champagne being greatly influenced by the sugar level dosage. Would like your thoughts please.
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It is mid-December and the festive season is upon us. One nice tradition to commence or to continue with is your own favourite edible treat – either store bought or homemade!
Lots of outstanding pastry chefs in our “village” of Vancouver going back to Thomas Haas and his famous German Stollen or Thierry Busset’s “Buche de Noel”.
So many new pastry chefs in our town are producing innovative new desserts. Your scribe believes hopefully it must be the same where you live. Please post for us some of your fav holiday recommendations. We are fortunate in the Cross family to have enthusiastic and talented cook Joan Cross, my wife, who already this year has tackled her own Stollen recipe and a dark chocolate Yule log. Lucky us!
There are so many Christmnas cookie recipes out there but one of our annual special ones is “Linzer Trees”. They look beautiful, are appropriate for respecting nature and for the symbol of the Christmas tree.
Even better is that they taste fabulous. Maybe try a batch using Joan’s shared recipe:
LINZER TREES
1 1/4 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
2/3 cup sugar
2 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup finely ground, roasted almonds
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup raspberry jam, preferably seedless
Preheat oven to 350F
Line baking sheets with parchment paper. In a stand mixer, cream butter & sugar on medium speed until smooth & light. In a separate bowl whisk the dry ingredients together & add slowly to the butter mixture.
Divide the dough into 3 balls, flatten them into disks, wrap in Saran wrap and refrigerate for about an hour.
Roll dough on lightly floured surface to 1/8 inch thick. Dust dough with flour if necessary to prevent sticking.
Using a Christmas tree cookie cutter, cut dough into the shapes. For half of the cookies, cut out small random circles (3-5).
You may use a small piping nozzle to make holes.
Bake 10-12 minutes until set but remaining pale. Melt the jam with 1 teaspoon icing sugar and boil for 1 minute. Cool slightly.
Lay out the cookies with no holes, right side down. Spread a scant 1 teaspoon of jam on these bottom cookies. Lay out the cookies with the holes right side up.
Dust lightly with icing sugar, using a fine sieve.
Set on top of the bottom cookie with the jam which will then show through the little holes.
Store in an airtight container between layers of wax paper for up to 3 days.
They may be frozen for up to a month.
Enjoy.
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Question: I like white wine made from Sylvaner grapes but wonder which region I should be looking to for best quality?
Answer: An unusual choice but this underrated grape variety is still popular for rich body earthy Franconia (Franken) wines in northwest Bavaria Germany. Good pairing for asparagus during the annual Spargelzeit season. Also check out improved top Sylvaner coming from Croatia. My number one choice for best Sylvaner definition to try would be Grand Cru from the Jurassic limestone-marl Zotzenberg Vineyard on the Mittelbergheim hillside in Alsace.
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