MUSIQUE & VIN AU CLOS VOUGEOT

The website for Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot captures their mission “to create a fusion between musicians of international fame and the winegrowers of Burgundy”. It certainly “offers an amplified experience to its public, pleasure that appeals to both the ears and the palate. ” It also is dedicated to supporting young musicians and providing funds for an innovative Instrument Loan Program among other worthwhile ventures. This excellence in both Music & Wine was held in Burgundy June 22-30, 2024 and the 17th edition is scheduled there for late June 2025. Aubert de Villaine & Bernard Hervet were there from the beginning with Founding Sponsors Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Domaine Faiveley, and Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Since 2019 Friends of Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot has been formed to support this project as a “Franco-American cultural partnership”. The next event Concert + Gala + Wine Dinner is scheduled for October 22, 2024 at the French Club in San Francisco California hosted by Aubert & Bernard. Check it out.

Leader Bernard Hervet while in Vancouver last month attended a dinner at Boulevard on August 14, 2024 hosted by three members of our local Tastevin (Trent Gustafson, Felix Ho, and your scribe) who are helping to organize another group visit to Burgundy at the end of June 2025. Bernard is a fountain of outstanding wine knowledge including excellent experience as Director/GM with both Bouchard Pere (and Wiliam Fevre) for 18 years 1988-2005 and Faiveley for 9 years 2007-2015. The brilliant wines of both those houses have been reviewed several times on this Blog. It was wonderful to catch up with Bernard again as he is an avid wine collector with a surprising cache as well of top Bordeaux wines. It was a delight to dine with him and reminisce about our old experiences and discuss the merits of many memorable vintages. He has kindly offered to arrange our visits next year to Musique et Vin plus our opening dinner reception at his amazing social club of 1243 Bourgogne Society in Beaune.

A Michelin star sumptuous repast was prepared by the top crew at Boulevard from acting GM Lisa Haley to the kitchen brigade led by talented chefs Roger Ma & Kenta Takahashi. Choice Seafood Platter included both fat and leaner tuna to compare, Nass River Coho lightly smoked, quality chicken a la Bresse with Aussie truffles, and dark chocolate torte. Our 5 wines stimulated a lot of discussion:

1. 2010 PULIGNY-MONTRACHET 1ER CRU “TERRE DE BLAGNY” DOMAINE BENOIT ENTE: Produced by the younger brother of esteemed winemaker Arnaud Ente who acquired his own vineyards in 1997 but his style has evolved since 2004 from rich oaky battonage to a purer structured fresh acidity less oak. Lower yields in 2010 but still very light and fresh with almost too citrus lean bodied. Expected more weight. Bernard made a smart point that more Blagny cooler terroir is showing then the 2010 full balanced vintage. This white Burgundy coming from a Hong Kong purchase special label is actually unfiltered SOUS LE PUITS 1ER CRU at 12.5 abv.

2. 2019 MARTIN’S LANE NARAMATA RANCH VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR: Served blind to Bernard from this respected Okanagan East Kelowna Estate facing E/SE at 410-490 metres Clones 667 & 943 harvested September 24-October 1. Winemaker Shane Munn calls it “Gently Made By Gravity”. Dark colour, deep earthy aromas, solid full very soft less acidic textures with wonderful enticing pure pinot fruit at 13 abv.

3. 2017 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE GRAND CRU DOMAINE BOUCHARD PERE: Bernard knows this site very well with East exposure on unique marl, limestone, clay and rock soils. LIghter vibrant vintage shows fresh cherry and raspberry/strawberry aromas with complex balanced textures and grippy finishing lift. No rush. Works paired with the fresh northern British Columbia coho course.

4. 2002 CORTON CLOS DES CORTONS GRAND CRU DOMAINE FAIVELEY: Another chosen wine from Bernard’s former employment producer that is so expressive of top red Burgundy. Lots of structure and energy here with harder tannins but may never get silky smooth enough in time to catch the medium fruit level. Enjoyable now at 20+ years for the charm it brings though some further potential is there. Matches the fantastic earthy truffles and non-oven cooked juicy chicken off the grill. Brings back memories of that ultimate delicious Bresse whole chicken at Le Bistro de L’Hotel in Beaune.

5. 1999 MAZOYERES CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU VIEILLES VIGNES DOMAINE HENRI PERROT-MINOT: Son Christophe took charge from his father Henri since 1993 destems and uses Remond barrels from Allier/Troncais (50% new Grand Cru) usually not racked. A bit heavy riper and closed in with coarser style lacking in elegance from this classic red year. Bernard offered that “perhaps picked too late”. May evolve better with more time.

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