Bordeaux Top Twin Vintages

Bordeaux Wine
By Colin (Flickr: the brat pack) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Are the 2010 & 2009 Bordeaux a twenty year reunion of those 1990 & 1989 twins? Tasting recently a lot of the former twins and drinking frequently those hard to believe now 25 year old delicious latter two. Got me thinking about what should be the recognized top twin vintages in Bordeaux history. Some random thoughts:

1864/1865: These 2 pre-phylloxera vintages were probably the first twins. 64 hot and 65 earlier picked but I have tasted both Lafites that showed amazingly complex and lasted so long as has the solid 64 Gruaud Larose.

1869/1870: Could be but fortunately having enjoyed immensely the 1870 Lafite from Glamis Castle on several occasions I vote strongly for that vintage.

1874/1875: Two big good crops at the time but don’t know them well enough to judge which was better.

1899/1900: 99 has a better chance of authentic bottles but 1900 a hotter year and magical with those 2 zeroes but suspicious especially for Chateau Margaux.

1928/1929: 29 delicate showy elegant and best early on but 28 structured balanced and came on late as more complex. Please serve me a Chateau Palmer 1928.

1947/1949: Two hot great vintages not quite consecutive. Port-like 47s like Cheval Blanc & 49s so harmonious and complex like 49 La Mission Haut Brion with better results in Sauternes.

1959/1961: Another not quite twins but the rich 59s like Lafite & classic 61s like Latour make for an intellectual study. Seldom get a disappointing bottle of either year.

1982/1983: 82s so outstanding at many levels including under the radar Grand Puy Lacoste but 83 unique microclimate with less August rain in Margaux & Pessac-Leognan so Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 83 better than 82.

1985/1986: 85s seductive even early on as a lovely Merlot year while 86 favoured the late ripening Cabernet Sauvignon of St Julien & Pauillac. Love that 86 Mouton.

1989/1990: Another 2 hot years like 47 (90 hottest since it) & 49 (90 sunniest since it) with large crops and lower acids but both with great results. Look at 89 & 90 Montrose. Love the Haut Brion & La Mission 1989s. Some 90 Pauillacs like Mouton & Pichon Lalande underperformed but Lynch Bages super.

2000/2001: Powerful concentrated 2000s helped by the 3 zeros. 2001 lighter favouring the Right Bank but sensational Sauternes- low yield exciting botrytis Climens!

1995/1996: Maybe a lesser quality set of twins than the others listed but some serviceable wines. Hyped after 4 difficult years from 1991-1994. Some excellent wines from the northern Medoc appellations in 1996 with that Pontet Canet improved quality quest starting to assert itself.

2009/2010: The present two “vintages of the century” and maybe even the last one as well. Both years are outstanding indeed. Some producers benefited from learning from their 09s thereby achieving better ripe tannins extraction yet with a firmness for more structure and age worthy style. Jury still is out on which is best.

Do you have a favourite Bordeaux set of twins?

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Big Easy Cuisine: a look at 5 classic dishes from New Orleans

By Joseph Temple

One of the greatest benefits of joining the International Wine & Food Society is the opportunity to travel around the world by attending the various festivals held throughout the year. Since 2012, members have cruised down the Rhône River, soaked up some sun in Puerto Vallarta and dined in style at our most recent International Festival in Vancouver, British Columbia.

And this year, things are off to a great start as we travel to the city of New Orleans for what promises to be an outstanding culinary weekend. With images of jazz trumpets, flickering gas lamps and Cajun/Creole inspired foods, the Big Easy is world renown for both its southern hospitality and a proud gastronomic heritage that is older than the country itself. Writing about Crescent City cuisine, legendary author Mark Twain described it “as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.”

So for this week’s entry, have a look at four dishes and one drink that were created in the city’s most legendary restaurants, markets and bars:

Antoine's New Orleans
By Pachango (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

1. Oysters Rockefeller

No history of New Orleans cuisine is complete without a reference to Antoine’s – a cornerstone of the French Quarter since 1840. With thirteen different dining rooms and a wine cellar that stores approximately 25,000 bottles, every foodie and oenophile needs to visit there at least once during their lifetime.

Of course, the restaurant’s most famous dish that’s often imitated but never duplicated is Oysters Rockefeller, created by second-generation owner Jules Alciatore in 1889. Using a rich puree as the secret ingredient that’s been closely guarded for over a century, no one except the current ownership knows exactly what makes these Oysters taste so delicious. Bottom line: you haven’t tried them until you eat there.

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New Orleans Sicilian culinary heritage By sailn1 (Flickr: [1]) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

2. Muffuletta

Looking back at the many groups who made New Orleans into what it is today, there is no denying the impact that Sicilians have had on this city. From St. Mary’s Church on Chartres Street to the annual festivities on St. Joseph’s Day, the fingerprints of southern Italy can be seen all over town. But in terms of their culinary contribution, look no further than the many Italian-owned grocery stores, some of which are still in operation to this day. In fact, due to the outstanding quality of food sold in these stores, New Orleans rejected the arrival of big-chain supermarkets for many years.

The most well-known market, which opened its doors for the first time in 1906 is Central Grocery, founded by Sicilian immigrant Salvatore Lupo. And a big reason for its century-long success is that it can lay claim to being the spot where the famous Muffuletta sandwich was invented. Consisting of firm-bodied Italian bread loaded with cold cuts that include mortadella and Genoa salami, provolone cheese and olive salad, this delicacy is the quintessential Crescent City dish. So if you’re looking for that authentic NOLA experience, step back in time and experience what an old-fashioned Italian grocery was like while chowing down on this tasty sandwich.
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3. The Po’ boy

Without question, there’s no shortage of fine-dining establishments in the city of New Orleans. But if you’re looking for a bite to eat for lunch or some moderately priced fare, you’ll need to try the world-famous Po ’boy sandwich that is sold all over the city.

According to legend, the dish got its name during a violent streetcar strike in 1929, when a sympathetic sandwich shop owner fed striking rail workers or “poor boys” as he called them for free during the entire dispute. Since then, this concoction consisting of French bread filled with either gravy soaked roast beef or fried seafood and showered with fresh toppings has become one of the city’s most popular meals. Whether you’re young or old, rich or poor, you’ll have to try a Po ’boy when you’re in New Orleans.

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New Orleans dessert
By Kimberly Vardeman (Flickr: Brennan’s Bananas Foster Flambé) [CC BY 2.0 ], via Wikimedia Commons
By vxla [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

4. Bananas Foster

Somebody once said that dessert is the whole point of a meal. And there’s no dessert that’s more synonymous with New Orleans than Bananas Foster. Created at Brennan’s in 1951 when the restaurant was on Bourbon Street, this is a simple, but satisfying dish of ice cream covered with bananas cooked in a rich brown sugar sauce. Of course, what makes this dessert a memorable experience is when your server pours rum over this rich dish table side and lights it on fire!

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Pat O'Brien's New Orleans drink
By Gary J. Wood (Flickr: Pat O’Brien’s Courtyard) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

5. The Hurricane

From the Grasshopper to the Ramos Gin Fizz, there are many memorable beverages that were born in the bars of the Big Easy But no signature drink is more recognizable and timeless than the Hurricane and its distinct vase-shaped glass. Created at Pat O’Brien’s, known today as the “the Mount Rushmore of bars” in the mid-1940s, the former speakeasy owner stumbled upon something incredible when he decided to unload his rum – an unpopular spirit at the time – by mixing it with fresh lemon juice, passion fruit syrup and crushed ice. Selling it in what has become known as the Hurricane glass, this libation went on to be one of America’s most popular cocktails that extends well beyond the boundaries of the French Quarter.
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Sources:

Besh, John. My New Orleans: The Cookbook. Kansas City: Andrews McMeel Books, 2009.
Maruzzi, Peter. Classic Dining: Discovering Americas’ finest mid-century restaurants. Layton: Gibbs Smith, 2012.
Murphy, Michael. Eat Dat New Orleans: A guide to the unique food culture of the Crescent City. New York: Countryman Press, 2014.
Stern, Jane & Michael. Roadfood Sandwiches: Recipes and Lore from Our Favorite Shops Coast to Coast. New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 2007.

Since 1935, The International Wine & Food Society has had a branch in the city of New Orleans – one of the very first branches founded in North America by André Simon.

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Ask Sid: Turnip or Rutabaga?

By thebittenword.com (http://www.flickr.com/photos/galant/2622027467/) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons
By pin add (Swede (The Vegetable)Uploaded by nesnad) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: My small grocery store tells me that the turnip and rutabaga are basically the same. Is this correct?

Answer: Not really. They are both healthy vegetables that can look similar but also are quite different. Turnips are usually smaller and stay white when cooked. Rutabagas are usually larger with a rougher texture and turn yellow when cooked. They are thought to be cross between a turnip and a cabbage. I prefer the classic pairing of the slightly bitter turnip with most duck recipes rather than the sweeter rutabaga. Try them both yourself and experience their subtle differences.

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Maremma – Tua Rita

Photo credit: www.tuarita.it/en

Dinner in Vancouver last week with Paola Banchi Branch Manager for Tua Rita (www.tuarita.it/en) made me reflect on the geographic expansion of Tuscany. Used to think only in terms of Chianti and those wines focused on the savoury sangiovese grape variety. Then came the IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) wines and Bolgheri “Bordeaux in Italy” with Sassicaia, Ornellaia and those other Super Tuscans. Now we can enjoy many wines from Maremma on the coast 30-40 kilometres south of Bolgheri and their sub-regions including Suvereto (Province of Livorno) again using cabernet and merlot to advantage. However there is still really top values from there with riper Morellina (local name for sangiovese) di Scansano. Look for them.

A leader of this region is definitely Tua Rita established in 1984 who released their first vintage in 1992. They have densely replanted with up to 8500 vines/hectare. They have clay soil parcels mid slope suited to the Bordeaux varieties and particularly merlot for their classy Redigaffi. However they can also be successful with sangiovese which usually doesn’t like excessive heat because of the moderating strong winds there and the very cool nights. Current winemaker Luca D’Attoma is having success with these Tua Rita wines:

1. LODANO: Small production (3000 bottles) white blend of gewürztraminer, riesling, and chardonnay. Also PERLATO white trebbiano, ansonica, and vermentino.

2. ROSSO DEI NOTRI IGT TOSCANA: Entry level red with sangiovese (usually 50% of the blend with no new wood to keep it fresh), merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and syrah all for drinking young. Tried the similar conditions of 2008 & 2011 and the denser 2012 benefiting from 86 days of no rain till harvest.

3. PERLATO DEL BOSCO IGT TOSCANA: 100% sangiovese (blended with cabernet sauvignon till 2011) using big casks (35-52 hl) for this delicate sensitive to oak variety. Young flowery nose of 2011 with more balsamic cherry notes than usual violets of sangiovese. Wonderful food wine.

4. GUISTO DI NOTRI IGT TOSCANA: Named for where the cellar is situated their 2012 is their 20th anniversary with a specially designed label. Best cabernet suavignon, merlot and 7-8% cabernet franc. Tried open dramatic fragrant complex 2008 and the more closed balanced 2011. Not filtered and is made to age 20 years.

5. SYRAH IGT TOSCANA: Planted in the 90s but first single variety vintage was 2001. Impressed by the great incredible fruit bouquet of 2008 (97 points in Wine Advocate). Using less new oak now for each vintage. Small production (even less in difficult years) with less than 1000 bottles in 2010 increasing to 3300 in masculine 2013.

6. REDIGAFFI IGT TOSCANA: This 100% merlot initiated in 1994 is named after a small stream running through the estate and is one of the world’s greatest wines. Paola appropriately calls it “an elegant lady with a long neck”. Wine Spectator gave the 1997 100 points & 2000 got 100 from Parker. I have tried most vintages and though 1997 & 2000 were outstanding I vote 1999 the best with 2001 a close second. I also put a vote in for 2006, 2009 and 2012 as well. Tried the delicious 2008 drinking forwardly and the more classical 2010. A treasure.

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A vineyard wedding in 10 photos

By Joseph Temple

With spring just a few months away, engaged couples everywhere are eagerly planning their dream weddings. And at the top of every list (other than the dress): the perfect venue. Of course, what better place to exchange vows than a vineyard? Having acre after acre of picturesque scenery, every photo is destined to be extra special. Below are just ten examples of how to create a memorable vineyard wedding from beginning to end. If you’re looking for some more ideas, visit our board on Pinterest. Enjoy!