I first visited Caymus (www.caymus.com) in October 1974 when this then small Napa Valley winery had just produced their first vintage of 1972 cabernet sauvignon totalling 240 cases. It is still owned by the Wagner family but now has increased to 65,000 cases. Beginning in 1975 they chose their best barrels for a Special Selection label – not always produced every year with no 1977, 1993, and 1996 in those difficult years. Got to know founder-pioneer Charlie Wagner rather well with many subsequent visits while watching his young son Chuck grow up on the Rutherford farmland & gradually take over with valuable training until 1984 from winemaker Randy Dunn (of Dunn Vineyards). Remember the days when Charlie served and defended his first stuck fermentation Chardonnay with sweet residual sugar as “Alsace-like” and certainly a far cry from their now successful brand Mer Soleil vineyard in Monterey!

Enjoyed tasting and collecting many of their cabs over the years and they have evolved from an all Estate vineyard early on to now using about 1/3 own vineyards, 1/3 leased and 1/3 purchased grapes. The cabernets have changed to put an emphasis on using more youthful vines for a robust ripe smooth textured supple earlier drinking opulent style. Chuck and his crew still sit down every year to taste all the lots blind to determine what goes into the Special Selection – all had been 100% cab sauv until 2008 when 12% merlot was used to soften the final blend. Last week a special tasting-dinner spotlighted a vertical of Caymus regular Napa Valley cabs and here are some of my short impressions:

1990 Caymus: 13 alcohol with 19 months in French & American oak. Browning look with mature open tobacco bouquet. Ready with more full smooth prunes and a little finishing heat. Drink up.

1991 Caymus: 13 alcohol with 26 months in French & American oak. Deeper younger more stylish cooler fruit with elegance and delicious complexity of flavours. Well done!

1992 Caymus: 12.5 with 24 months French & American. Dark but seems drier with less ripeness and more earthy herbal olives in the flavour.

1993 Caymus: 12.5 with longer time in wood of 28 months French & American. 85.5% CS, 12.6 CF & 1.9 St. Macaire (a tannic grape named after town in SW France & on the first list of allowed Meritage grapes). No Special Selection this year but regular is lean and drying out begging for some food accompaniment.

1994 Caymus: 12.5 with 94% CS & 6% CF (from Oakville). CS was from different vineyards with 27.4% from Rutherford, 34.7 St. Helena, 22 Atlas Peak, and 9.9 Mt. Veeder. Shows ripeness of the year well holding the fruit on a lovely stylish wonderful drinking plateau. Impressive.

1995 Caymus: 13.9 with 83% CS & 17 CF. Mix of vineyards again with Rutherford 35.8, St. Helena 46.6, Atlas Peak 9, and Mt. Veeder 8.6. Bigger first one in more modern style with more alcohol and a preview to the future of bigger extraction after 2000. Lots of spicy cocoa there. Less elegant.

1996 Caymus: 14.2 with 87 CS, 6CF & 7 Merlot. No Special Selection made. Vineyards: Rutherford up to 51.6, St. Helena dropped to 28.61, Atlas Peak 11.33, Mt. Veeder 8.46. Seems more Robert Parker influenced. Some merlot in the mix.

1997 Caymus: 14.3 with 88 CS, 10 M, 2 CF. Similar vineyard mix of Rutherford 52.15, St. Helena 25.95, Atlas Peak 15.84, and Mt. Veeder 6.06. Hot May temperatures averaging 92F resulted in a very ripe intense vintage still full of fruit.

1998 Caymus: 14.3 with all the fruit from a big harvest picked in October. Surprisingly the back label says that the sugars in 98 were higher than 97. Shows more acidity with some vibrancy and is aging well. This leaner unheralded vintage seems to show better every time I try it. Maybe Robert Mondavi was right about the underrated balance of the year!

1999 Caymus: 14.3 crop thinned & picked end of September with Caymus experiencing their ripest year yet.  Recently had their excellent 99 Special Selection so came in with expectations for the regular as well and was not disappointed. Rich full impressive with a seductive character!

2000 Caymus: 14.3 with first picking starting early on September 9. Extended harvest over 49 days with crushing taking place on 23 of those days. Also noted the 20 months in 2/3 new French oak.

2014 Caymus Special Selection: 14.8 riper and not a single vineyard but a mix of 60-70 diverse lots from riper Calistoga floor fruit to late ripening Atlas Peak vineyards. Good extracted dark cassis fruit with vanilla shows richness and smooth opulence for earlier enjoyment.

2012 Caymus Special Selection: 14.8 has two extra years to knit all the elements together. Shows delicious drinking now but will be interesting to see how this vintage & the 2014 cellar. Makes such an amazing ripe fruit voluptuous statement already that it is hard to believe they need to improve before you can justify opening the bottle.

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By Joseph Temple

It’s summertime—the sky is blue, the ocean is blue—and perhaps your next glass of wine too! That’s because blue colored wine, one of Spain’s hottest exports is set to appear in restaurants and wine shops across North America, replacing rosé as the “in” drink for summer. And to compliment this new hip libation is a slick advertising campaign that equates buying this alternative product with an act of revolutionary defiance against the older generations. According to its maker, it “is not just about drinking blue wine; you are drinking innovation. You are drinking creation. You are breaking the rules and creating your own ones.”

For connoisseurs who adhere to the gold standard of Bordeaux and Burgundy, blue wine will probably be seen as an abomination, on par with drinking coolers and boxed wine. Based on its “anti-technical sheet,” there is no aging procedure while the red and white grapes (which aren’t named) come from an “innovative mindset, respecting both the environment and our aim to disrupt.” Traditionalists have been warned!

Now if you’re wondering how it got to be blue, the creators trace its origins back to the University of Basque Country in Northern Spain where two years of in depth research gave birth to this unique beverage. Made through a pigmentation process, the company’s website states: “Firstly a base is created from a mixture of white and red grapes, which is then added to two organic pigments: indigo and anthocyanin –the first one proceeds from the very skin of the grapes used to make wine.”

Judging by a social media presence consisting of young hipsters sipping poolside accompanied by the hashtag #BlueWine, it’s clear that Millennials, a group that consumed 42% of all wine purchased in the U.S. in 2015, is the main target market for blue wine once it arrives in America en masse. Not a bad strategy since according to one study, 85% of this coveted demographic are more likely to try unfamiliar brands from lesser-known wineries. Add in a friendly price tag with a creative label and you definitely have a wine that is sure to catch one’s eye.

However, what is fascinating from a marketing standpoint are several incendiary statements that blue winemakers have made to the media.   “We thought about how it would be to have real people making wine for real people, not a wine made by experts to pseudo-connoisseurs,” said one of the co-founders to Eater.com. “Ignore all the preconceptions and standards regarding [the] wine industry and turn a deaf ear to what the sommelier told you in the wine tasting last week,” according to the anti technical sheet. Judging by these quotes, it is almost as if blue wine is trying to bait the establishment. But since Millennials are far less likely to purchase a bottle based on the score of a prominent critic, there definitely seems to be a method to this madness. It’s not going to help the sales of blue wine if the likes of Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator embrace them; it’s only going to help if they rebel against them, wearing their condemnation as a badge of honor.

Sound like a blueprint for success?

Examples of social media postings using #BlueWine

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Question: I am confused by wines being called rose, pink and blush. What is the difference?

Answer: It is confusing! As a long time Champagne lover I understood rose to mean a sparkler showing various shades of pink produced from either a little time spent on the dark skins of the grapes or with some red pinot noir wine later added to the clear juice. There were also those special still roses from Provence including Tavel AOC & Anjou in the Loire as well as rosato from Italy and rosado from Portugal. Sweeter styled Mateus became a big seller in the seventies along with the commercial pink “white Zinfandel”. As more red grape varieties were being used for still roses around the world the name evolved to include blush for those showing less red colour. Hard to know by the use of the name alone which wines are going to taste dry or sweet. Now it is all rather confusing and the three words you mention seem to be used interchangeably.

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I enjoyed last week in Summerland participating with some 30 other “pros” in The Second Annual Judgment of BC Wine blind tasting to see how British Columbia wines are stacking up to comparable values around the World. British wine critic Dr. Jamie Goode, and American wine writer Elaine Chukan-Brown currently the American Specialist for JancisRobinson.com and a contributing writer for Wine & Spirits, scored the wines along with 29 expert Canadian wine judges You may recall the first one was written up August 31, 2015 on this Blog as BC Bottle Shock with Steven Spurrier where Chardonnay disappointed but Syrah triumphed with CC Jentsch 2013 ranked #1. This time the choices were Riesling and Pinot Noir again curated by wine educator DJ Kearney (@djwines) and Wines of British Columbia (@WineBCdotcom; www.winebc.com) pitting 6 BC wines against 6 acknowledged global benchmarks for both grape varieties. The goal of these tastings is to honestly assess the current state of grapegrowing and winemaking in BC in order to provide a clear perspective of the distinct characteristics of British Columbia wine in relation to global standards, and to achieve a focused vision for the continued evolution of the BC Wine Industry.

The Press Release issued on the event included these comments:

“I am so pleased with the results. This is not about win or lose, good or better. This is about putting BC Wines up against really stiff competition and what great results.” noted DJ Kearney curator of the event. “The global wines were all chosen for a reason to challenge, to push, and to help us realize that we are in great company. This should be a tough competitive set, and it was. It had to be. And BC did well. What this shows is that we can hold our own among acknowledged classics.”

“What was really interesting when I tasted through those 12 wines blind, I couldn’t pick out the BC Wines which tells me they belong in their peer group which is a ringing endorsement for BC Wine that we’re on the right track,” noted Dr. Jamie Goode. “I think BC Riesling really put in a strong performance. The key aspect was the purity and beautifully integrated acidity in these wines. I thought it was a well chosen set of wines, if I saw the lineup before tasting, I wouldn’t have expected to see the BC Wines do so well. I was pleasantly surprised with the results.”

“I was pleased we were doing a tasting with Pinot Noir and Riesling, they are two varieties that BC is doing very well and they should be celebrated.” said Sid Cross. “I thought the results were very pleasing to see BC Pinot Noir right in the midst of the pack. The top three Pinot Noirs are classic wines from the top recognized regions in the world for Pinot Noir, a Premium Cru from Burgundy, Oregon and Central Otago. To come in right behind those wines shows that BC is right there for Pinot Noir. Very impressive.”

“BC showed very well. I was more interested in being able to identify BC characteristics within the wines. I was able to pick out five of the six Pinot Noirs and four of the six BC Rieslings. It had to do with the energy of the wines. The bright fruit energy presence. Not so much elegance, finesse and depth, more that upbeat intensity. And my first place Pinot Noir was a BC!” remarked David Lawrason.”

RIESLING RESULTS RANKING ORDER:

1. Max Ferd. Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2013 | Mosel Valley, Germany | 9% $42.99 2. CedarCreek Platinum Block 3 Riesling 2014 | Okanagan Valley, BC | 12.2% | $22.99
3. Wild Goose Stoney Slope Riesling 2013 | Okanagan Falls, BC | 13.3% | $20
4. Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Eroica Riesling 2013 | Columbia Valley AVA, Washington State | 12% | $29.49
5. Leeuwin Art Series Riesling 2012 | Margaret River, Australia | 12% | $42.49
6. Synchromesh Storm Haven Vineyard Riesling 2015 | Okanagan Falls, BC | 8.9% | $35
7. Culmina Decora Riesling 2015 | Okanagan Valley, BC | 13.5% | $26.99
8. Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling 2014 | South Australia | 12% | $19.99
9. Robert Weil Kiedricher Riesling Trocken 2012 | Rheingau, Germany | 11.5% | $47.99
10. Tantalus Old Vines Riesling 2013 | Okanagan Valley, BC | 13.1% | $30.35
11. Orofino Hendsbee Vineyard Riesling 2013 | Similkameen Valley, BC | 12% | $22
12. Trimbach Riesling 2012 | Alsace, France | 12.5% | $35.99

Riesling is the 4th white variety by acreage planted (some like Tantalus Old Vines date from 1978) behind Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Gewurztraminer. Drier more backward wines seemed to get less votes than sweeter ones with Tantalus having very high quality but presently austere with vibrant high acidity hiding the underlying intense fruit from older vines. Give it a couple more years to integrate and it will show very well indeed. The Top Two were truly outstanding wines and deserving of their top ranking. Impressive showing to have two BC wines in the top three.

PINOT NOIR RESULTS RANKING ORDER:

1. Bouchard Père Premier Cru Beaune Clos de la Mousse Monopole 2012 | Burgundy, France | 13% | $66.99
2. Bachelder Oregon Pinot Noir 2012 | Willamette Valley AVA Oregon, USA | 14% | $49.99
3. Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2014 | Central Otago, New Zealand | 14% | $67.99
4. Haywire Canyonview Pinot Noir 2014 | Summerland, Okanagan Valley, BC | 13% | $39.90
5. Meyer Family Reimer Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 | Okanagan Valley, BC | 13.5% | $40
6. Quails’ Gate Richard’s Block Pinot Noir 2013 | Okanagan Valley, BC | 14% | $55.17
7. Blue Mountain Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir 2013 | Okanagan Falls, BC | 12.5% | $39.90
8. Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne Les Grands Chaillots 2012 | Burgundy, France | 13% | $65.99
9. JoieFarm Reserve En Famille Pinot Noir 2012 | Naramata, Okanagan Valley, BC | 13.6% | $29.90
10. BK Wines Skin n’Bones Pinot Noir 2013 | Lenswood, Adelaide Hills, South Australia | 12.5% | $39.99
11. Moraine Pinot Noir 2013 | Naramata, Okanagan Valley, BC | 13.1% | $28.90
12. Meomi Pinot Noir 2014 | California, USA | 13.7% | $25.99

Pinot Noir is 2nd behind Merlot among the red varieties by acreage planted in BC. The Top 3 were all very worthy from the proven regions for the grape of Burgundy, Oregon and Central Otago in New Zealand followed closely by the BC wines solidly in 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8th positions. A top BC contender could have been the outstanding Foxtrot Vineyards but it was not shown in this tasting. Interesting to note that the style of the top commercial selling “very sweet” Meomi was not supported by these judges. Excellent future for pinot noir in British Columbia and the best is yet to come!

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By Joseph Temple

For the people of Romania, viticulture is a cherished art that has been practiced on their land for over six thousand years.  Producing more wine than any other Balkan state, this republic currently ranks as the fifth largest area for wine acreage in Europe, behind only France, Italy, Spain and Portugal.  Surviving both phyloxxera in the late nineteenth century and a collectivist system that diminished the quality of its wines for decades, Romania appears to making a comeback with certain regions standing out to foreign investors and wine buyers.  So have a look below at ten facts that cover the basics of a wine industry that is one of the oldest in the world.

1. It has been said that when the Romans conquered Dacia in 106 AD, they found the local wines to be superior to their own.

2. In Romania, the Black Sea provides a moderating influence and the Carpathian Mountains serve as a barrier to cooler weather from the north.

3. Generally, the northern regions produce white wines and the southern regions are known for their red wines.

4. In 2008, Romania was the sixth-largest producer of wine in the EU, representing roughly 3.1% of their total wine production.

By Vincon Romania (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

5. In addition to indigenous grapes like Fetească, Romanian vintners also grow many vitis vinifera varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Riesling.

By Ulrich prokop (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

6. Romanian wines tend to be sweet or off-sweet, which is the preferred style for domestic consumption.

Image: www.cotnari.ro

7. One of the most famous wine regions in Romania is Cotnari in the northeast, which produces dessert wines that have been compared to Hungary’s Tokaj region.

8. Located on the 45th parallel, another famous region is Dealu Mare, which means “big hill” and has excellent conditions for winemaking.

9. Under Communism, quantity was preferred over quality in order to get stable western currency. This resulted in destroying the image of Romanian wines abroad.

By Vincon Romania (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

10. Despite its production, exports have historically represented less than 10% of the Romanian wine market. In comparison, Hungary exports approximately 40% of it wines.

Sources:

Clarke, Oz. Oz Clarke’s New Wine Atlas: Wines and Wine Regions of the World. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2002.
Facts on File Incorporated. Romania. New York: Infobase Publishing, 2004.
Harding, Julia. The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2015.
Jackson, Ronald S. Wine Science: Principles and Applications. Amsterdam: Elsevier, 2014.
Oxford Business Group. The Report: Romania 2008. Oxford: Oxford Business Group, 2008.
Roberts, James. The Mountains of Romania: A guide to walking in the Capathian Mountains. Milnthorpe, Cicerone Press Limited, 2013.
Shakespear, Nigel. Times New Romanian: Voices and Narrative from Romania. Leicester: Troubador Publishing, 2014.

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