Question: I am having an argument about the correct answer for which grape is best suited for growing on granite soils to make wine.

Answer: Difficult question because I do not believe there is just one correct answer. Several grape varieties seem to thrive on granite. Cru Beaujolais made from Gamay are famous. Also the Hermitage hill in the Northern Rhone produces fantastic Syrah. But there are other granitic soils around the world that do well with a variety of grapes: Stellenbosch & Paarl in South Africa, parts of Australia & California, as well as Portugal (Dao) and Spain (Rias Baixas for Albarinos). I enjoy the Riesling grape grown on granite soil vineyards in Alsace from Brand & Schlossberg! Lots of correct answers.

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At a dinner last week 2 wine issues reinforced themselves strongly to me:

Bordeaux wines and especially those from St. Estephe can age well for a very long time.

Wines in Grand Format really can surprise and impress.

The emphasis at this dinner was on the commune of St Estephe. 1989 vintage of Chateau Lilian Ladouys, Chateau Meyney, and Chateau Calon Segur all showed relatively youthful. 1975 Calon Segur still had hard drier youthful tannins but the 1966 was really remarkable. Elegant balanced and drinking superbly now with the food courses at 50 years of age. Reminded me of past glories from Cos d’Estournel and especially Montrose going way back to the legendary 1870.

A real delight was trying a flight of 3 Chateau Meyney all from the lauded 2000 vintage but in 3 different sizes of single bottle 750 ml., magnum 1500 ml., and double magnum 3000 ml. All quite impressive but the double magnum was at a different level. Even the visiting guest speaker Bill Blatch ex-Vintex and a Bordeaux expert was ” both surprised and amazed at how the Grand Format bottle was so clearly much better than the other two smaller sizes” already at only 16 years of age. I have had less success with Burgundy than Bordeaux large bottle sizes because the neck slopes away rather quickly perhaps resulting in a less secure seal for the larger cork. They need a port-like cork.

Have you had success with large format bottles?

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By Joseph Temple

A drive through the country. Crisp autumn air. Leaves turning color. Apple picking. Pumpkin carving.  There’s no better way to warm up this harvest season than trying some delicious new recipes.  Whether it’s a wonderful addition to your next dinner, celebration table or a simple picnic in the orchard, use theses flavor combinations as your inspiration for a warming chutney, jam, jelly or preserve.  They make great holiday gifts too!

1. Apple & Cinnamon

2. Fig & Port

3. Indian Mango

4. Red Onion

5. Cranberry & Merlot

6. Ginger, Pear & Riesling

7. Quince & Raisin

8. Pumpkin & Apple

9. Pear & Cranberry

10. Apricot & Cherry

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Question: Sid I would like to know if you favor wine made by wild ferment or with the use of cultured yeast?

Answer: Interesting topical question. Yeasts are an important factor in winemaking. Think of how sourdough or levain influences your bread. I like wines that use the wild yeasts which are in the vineyard and the winery. These usually bring a slower more risky less efficient fermentation – but sometimes results in less alcohol with better terroir. Cultured yeasts nearly always work fast and efficiently. However, recent research reveals that the yeasts you use for the first time in the winery tend to remain and dominate regardless of your later choice. If you want to go with wild yeast it might be a good idea to paint the inside walls of your brand new winery with yeasts from your vineyard to get them well established!

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By Anna & Michal from Brussels, Belgium [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Shorter crops with price increases seem to be the yearly trend for both Chablis and White Burgundy. Looking back though 2010 is the vintage that continues to impress this scribe most with their intensity and balanced acidity. Not overly heralded on their release because of difficult flowering and some rot issues caused by September rains they are developing well in bottle. Hope you had the foresight to put a few top crus away for a special occasion. Some 2010 wines are starting to show their worth but no rush with most of the best properties. Better to drink up your 2009 and 2011 before approaching those better aging 2010s.

Enjoyed recently trying quite a few whites from the 2010 vintage. All have been enjoyable with no pre-mox issues yet while generally highlighting the structure and complexity of this year. A mini vertical of Bouchard Pere Meursault Perrieres showed 2010 admired the most for the fruit purity and balance over a surprisingly rich full excellent 2009 & quicker evolving 2008. Really like the Chablis 2010 from Christian Moreau – especially their Vaillons old vines Guy Moreau Cuvee and Grand Cru Les Clos.

A dinner on September 25 at Ancora Restaurant in Vancouver spotlighted nine worthy 2010s matched with an intriguing menu influenced by Peruvian & Japanese touches that worked surprisingly well:

The 3 Grand Cru Chablis were a delight. Grenouilles softer less concentrated but lovely forwardly drinking already while the 2 Fevre showed extra depth & density. The Marl/Clay mix with limestone for Valmur contributes a full rich palate while the Les Clos really shines best with more style amazing structure and complexity from hillside limestone. Both will continue to develop well with more bottle age. Classy wines.

Morgeot quite soft and drink now plateau. Both Genevrieres impress with a clean fresh delicate lots of finesse underrated Bouchard Pere & a fuller richer more nutty Henri Boillot.

A clean fresh young still tight pure Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne, riper Premier Cru Puligny Francois Carillon and the exciting Batard from legendary Sauzet in magnum shows dramatic Grand Cru quality. All are impressive and at 6 years just approaching their best plateau of drinkability. No rush. Enthusiastic endorsement for both Chablis & White Burgundy from the 2010 vintage!

Click to enlarge

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