Question: Where on the wine label does it tell you whether or not oak has been used?

Answer: Good idea. Wish it was that simple. Usually it doesn’t tell you. There may be a specific word like unoaked or unwooded used – especially for chardonnay. There may be some helpful information on the back label including descriptors like crisp, fresh or vibrant that probably indicate no oak was used. Even those terms can be confusing though because say wines like Chablis Premier or Grand Cru are in that style but still may see some old oak barrels. It can be a difficult issue somewhat like the sugar one in a wine – though many producers now are providing more information about residual sugar on their back label. It really depends on the overall balance of the wine whether the oak or sugar seems prominent to you. Remember that new oak diminishes with bottle age. Best way is to smell and taste the wine for oak but you raise another good reason why I support ingredient labeling.

You might also like:

The name Leoville is a magical one in Bordeaux. The Estate was one big St. Julien property for a long time until being divided in 1840 resulting in the 1855 Classification as three all highly rated Second Growths. Since then over the years there have been ups and downs but Leoville Poyferre (LP) fell behind their well respected neighbours Leoville Las Cases and Leoville Barton. However the modern era starts in 1979 with a young Didier Cuvelier replanting vines with more cabernet sauvignon while expanding vineyard size (48 to 80 hectares) yet lowering yields and raising quality at LP. Today it is clearly recognized as an equal to and in some vintages (like 2009) arguably better than the other two Leoville estates. Last week your scribe was fortunate at a tasting/dinner to update his knowledge on how 9 key older vintages of LP are presently showing:

2005: Dark colour 68% cab sauv. Nose backward somewhat closed and not giving much. However improves with airing and outstanding cassis fruit on the palate with refined tannins & admirable balance. A classic in the making and just needs more time to blossom.

2000: Good depth. Impressive cedar black currant bouquet. Delicious with full rich wonderful weight and sweeter supple textures that should appeal to everyone – even California cabernet aficionados. Drinking on lovely plateau more forwardly than its 2 sister Estates.

1996: Deep still dark. Young solid aromas. Bit brawny perhaps but 70% cab sauv results in a full bodied ripe traditional St. Julien that continues to slowly develop well. Lots there. Promising. No rush.

1995: Much lighter rim. Quite herbal red cranberry notes but nice balance. Good merlot vintage that can be slightly overrated in the Medoc because of the lesser quality of the 4 years from 1991-1994 that preceded it.

1990: Maturing rim. Pure elegance majestic complex perfumed nose! Somewhat similar to 2000 in that spectacular style with a seductive exotic personality. Exquisite lush fruit on a beautiful plateau of enjoyment now. Group favourite.

1986: Dark. Backwardly cellar nose at first but opened more later. Highly thought of by their cellar master on initial release. Harder tannins sterner more abrupt taste. Believe it will get better with cellar patience.

1983: Briary fruity plums yet sound surprisingly drinkable and enjoyable with food. Under rated.

1982: Great anticipation of this vintage. Not pleased with this atypical bottle showing more shoe polish with mint smells than the cigar cedar spices text book St Julien expected. Extract and the kind of smooth polish you like on the palate. Still good. Can be more outstanding.

1975: Inconsistent wine with no Parker rating. Experienced the same. However, this bottle shows very well indeed with open complex mature bouquet plus smooth round rich textures on entry full of life before the drier tannins show on the finish. Has come around much better as shown here.

Have you tried one of the Leoville wines? Do you have a preference among the 3 properties?

You might also like:

 Loading ...

By Joseph Temple

For a country known more for its tequila and cervezas, you may be surprised to learn that Mexico also has a rich history when it comes to winemaking. Dating back to the early 16^th century when the first vines were planted in the New World, Mexican vintners have endured their fair share of peaks and valleys in order to produce some wines that have gained a very loyal following. And while their estimated annual output of 20 million liters is miniscule compared to their neighbors to the north, it appears that when it comes to quality, Mexico has clearly stepped up its game, moving beyond the watery grapes and poor vintages that were commonly associated with their nation. So to get you up to speed on the 25^th largest wine producer in the world, here are ten interesting facts. Gracias!

1. The first Mexican wines were produced in the early 1500s after Hernán Cortés and his fellow Spanish Conquistadors overthrew the Aztecs. Quickly going through their own supply, he ordered each colonist to plant a minimum of 1000 grapevines.

2. Casa Madero, the first winery in the Americas was established in 1597 in the town of Santa Maria de las Parras and is still in existence to this day.

3. Surpassing Spanish wines in terms of quality while facing stiff competition from France, King Philip II in 1595 ordered that all production stop immediately. After this edict, only the Jesuits and other religious sects made wine on Mexican soil for sacramental purposes.

4. In the early 20th century, a group of pacifist immigrants from Russia known as the Molokans arrived in Mexico after escaping the Czar. With their knowledge of agriculture, they were able to revitalize the country’s wine industry in the Guadalupe Valley, which came to a halt during the Mexican Revolution.

By Gabriel Flores Romero from Tecate, México (originally posted to Flickr as viñedos) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

5. Serious attempts to make quality wines again began during the 1980s using modern techniques and backed by Mexico’s National Viticulture Association.

By Marrovi (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

6. Today, Mexican wine is made in three main areas—in the Baja Peninsula, the states of Coahuila, Durango and Chihuahua that are south of Texas and New Mexico, and in the central states of Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, and Queretaro.

By Tomascastelazo (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

7. Of these three, the Baja Peninsula is where more than 90% of all Mexican wine is produced. Divided by the Sierra de Baja California mountain range, all vineyards in the peninsula are located west of these mountains where the climate is similar to the Mediterranean with the Pacific Ocean helping to cool the grapes.

By Jaime Sanchez Diaz (jsanchezd) [GFDL, CC-BY-SA-3.0 or CC BY-SA 2.5-2.0-1.0], via Wikimedia Commons

8. Along the Baja Peninsula, Guadalupe Valley is considered to be the Napa Valley of Mexico, being home to approximately half of the all the country’s wineries.

By Tomas Castelazo (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

9. Many of the grapes grown in Mexico are of either Spanish or French origin. These include syrah, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and chardonnay.

By Kjetil2006 (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

10. With no system of denominations of origin, all bottles simply need to be labeled “Product of Mexico.” (However, some may note the valley it was made in.) Also, the grapes listed may not be listed in the order in which they dominate the blend.

Sources:

MacNeil, Karen. The Wine Bible. New York: Workman Publishing, 2015.
Micallef. (2017, January 7). Wine Stories: Mexico’s Wine Renaissance. Huffington Post. Retrieved from http://www.huffingtonpost.com
Newton, James. Mexican Cookbook – Traditional Mexican Recipes: Recetas Mexicanas. Springwood EMedia, 2014.
Palmerlee, Danny. Baja California and Los Cabos. Oakland: Lonely Planet, 2007.

You might also like:

 Loading ...

By Laurent Espitallier from France (Sauternes & Foie gras) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I have collected quite a few Sauternes from different years starting with 2000 and onwards. Which vintages do you consider the top ones and best aging?

Answer: Discussed this issue last night at a dinner while sipping on the amazingly pineapple rich forwardly Chateau Coutet 1989. Middle year of the successful Sauternes trio with those early picked powerful 1990 and more botrytis with higher acidity 1988. Starting this century 2000 had a lot of rain from October 9^th resulting in fragrant lighter Sauternes. The following year 2001 is so outstanding with their incredible balance! Also the 2005 has balance but less acidity though exceptional while the 2009 is ultra-rich with lots of botrytis. Some promising ones coming along from this decade to monitor. Expert Bill Blatch on his www.bordeauxgold.com is a good site to follow. Try some from your collection and make you own assessment.

You might also like:

 Loading ...

By PA (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Last week your scribe had the pleasurable opportunity to reflect on one of my favourite wine properties and study at a dinner 10 vintages of Château Palmer. Most of my early visits to Bordeaux in the seventies and eighties always included memorable tastings of exquisite old bottles of this 3rd growth in Margaux with the family syndicate ownership represented by either the outstanding weather chronicler now deceased Peter A. Sichel or old Bordeaux vintage collector Franck Mahler-Besse providing invaluable insights into their wines. This property was the star of the appellation during this period before the re-emergence of Château Margaux under the Corinne Mentzelopoulos and the late Paul Pontallier leadership. Palmer also was made in quite a different style not using a clear majority of cabernet sauvignon but instead usually an equal amount nearing 50% of seductive merlot in the blend. Since 1998 there is a second label Alter Ego de Palmer showing a more forwardly drinking style using Estate fruit but in different proportions from the Grand Vin. Since 2004 Château Palmer has been under the competent management of talented Thomas Duroux (with Ornellaia winemaking experience) and his team. They go from strength to strength every vintage. A property to follow and collect.

Some brief tasting impressions:

1999: Successful limited selection of Grand Vin grapes of cab sauv, merlot, and petit verdot 48/46/6. Medium bodied with colour lighter at the rim. Less of a power statement but superb lovely complexity here on nose and palate. On excellent drinking plateau already but no rush either.

1998: Dark colour from superb year for ripe merlot. Underrated and so expressive because of choice grape selection similar to 1999. Well balanced very Palmer style with variety of herbs and flowers is drinking well. Like the 1999 was early on a smart good value buy.

1996: Surprisingly paler colour but has more cab sauv at 55% which is much more closed yet rich and powerful notes in a cassis style. Harder finish. Needs time.

1995: Very dark colour right to the rim. Similar to 1996 but better tannin integration here and much softer plush textures. Drink before 1996.

1989: Hot weather resulted in early picking with all varieties having phenolic ripeness. Clearly my wine of the night with compelling exquisite exotic flair. Concentration with complex elegance. A winner!

1988: Deep colour but leaner herbal style shows more lively acidity & coarser tannins which are still rather prominent. Has fruit there so may come around with patience.

1986: Better year for cab sauv especially in north Medoc. Atypical for Palmer here being a bit stern and austere. OK.

1985: Red ruby with better mature fruit than 1986 showing more charm. Drinking at best level with some drying tannins on the finish. Enjoy now.

1983: Enjoyed this vintage many times over the last decade often paired with the 1989. 1983 Palmer always has overshadowed the 1982 yet shows now a more herbal quite minty lighter charm and elegance when compared to the fuller sweeter richer longer aging 1989.

1978: Miracle vintage that was saved late. Sometimes like here a bit too herbal earthy and less than full ripeness with bottle variation.

Also tried during 2016 four outstanding Palmers all showing brilliantly: 1975: big hard brutish vintage but this one coming around nicely now; 1970: is so classic and maybe the wine of the vintage luckily purchased in BC liquor stores during December 1975 for the bargain price of $11.50 a bottle; 1966: the long distance runner of perfect balanced acidity with wonderful fruit; 1961: always ranks among the very best wines I have tasted being still so remarkably aristocratic perfect from well stored bottles. Big salute also to those ancient special treasures of 1959 & 1928!

You might also like:

 Loading ...