Les Chevaliers des Vins Vancouver Chapter held a twenty year horizontal retrospective on 2005 Bordeaux at the Water Street Cafe on September 16th. This Bordeaux wine tasting has been a September tradition for many years organized by Doug Eakins and conducted by the legendary Bill Blatch. Sadly Bill passed away in February 2025 from a heart attack while in Tahiti. Many memorable write-ups on Bill’s amazing personality and outstanding contributions to the wine trade on the web including The Guardian here, Jancis Robinson here and Jane Anson here. Definitely “the wine whisperer of Bordeaux” – and the world expert on Sauternes – he is really missed by all of us. Les Chevaliers decided to carry on their annual event in his memory with your scribe and Barbara Philip MW BCLIQUOR’S Bordeaux buyer previously ably advised by Bill. Both of us were longtime close friends of Bill and so this event was quite an emotional one as we toasted him with our fond memories. Several previous wine tastings by Bill have been posted here including 2003 Bordeaux and the three Leoville Estates in St Julien on September 19, 2022 here.
The vintage 2005 in Bordeaux was recognized from the start as a stunning magical year producing reds that are rich, powerful and tannic. The Faculty of Oenology in Bordeaux even remarked that “it would remain long in the memory for its quality”. A dry warmer year for ripeness but a cooler September resulted in bigger tannins compared to say 2009 & 2010 needing years to open up. While 2003 had 6 days over 40C the 2005 had only 2 days over 35C with less hot spikes and less overall Summer heat for best fresh balance.
We started with a 2015 CHANTEGRIVE BLANC from Leveque in the Graves with 50:50 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon a good value. At ten years it has lost much of the SB freshness but has a predominant Semillon style but is holding well and an enjoyable aperitif at 13 abv.
We finished up with 2005 RIEUSSEC SAUTERNES of 90/8/2 Semillon/SB/Muscadelle several picks Sept 23-Oct 27at 14 abv showing the usual advanced colour of this property with an excellent rich sweet botrytis beauty. Good one.
We tasted 8 reds with the last one blind. A few of my comments:
2005 BELLE-VUE HAUT-MEDOC Well situated in Macau near Giscours with old vines Petit Verdot (1936) used in first one of 1996 (100%) then purchased by Vincent Mulliez in 2004 (who died in 2010 at age 44) and carried on by his family of Auchan Supermarket before being sold in 2021 to Treasury Wine Estates (own Penfold’s & excellent Cambon La Pelouse a near neighbour of Belle-Vue). Here a blend of 50CS/27M/20PV & 3 Carmenere. Showing dense fruit but a bit rustic and more herbaceous on the finish. Good table wine to enjoy now.
2005 LES GRAVIERES ST. EMILION This is 100% Merlot that lists 13 abv but has more heat than that on the finish. NIce berry smooth textures helped by the vintage but rather simpler flavours. 2005 LA CROIX ST. GEORGES POMEROL Twelve acres near Vieux Ch Certan & Le Pin of Jean-Philippe Janoueix helped by Michel Rolland using 96M with 4 CF with iron notes of terroir & more complex choc-mocha spices.
2005 GRAND PUY DUCASSE PAUILLAC This 60CS/40M blend is one of their best up to that date. Much improved today with more recent vintages. This has solid fruit but earthy closed in less classically Pauillac styling. Still OK. 2005 KIRWAN MARGAUX Best so far with bigger intense concentrated density and less flowery Margaux (shown by recent vintages). Overcropped during 70s & 80s (though 1983 is lovely) but almost too extracted here but this Third Growth at 13.5 abv is coming around wonderfully starting now.
2005 CLOS DU MARQUIS ST. JULIEN Separate area (not a second label or just younger vines of Las Cases) was created near the winery as “Petit Clos” back in 1902. Usually more Merlot grown than LLC (vineyards further West) and 2005 is typical 50CS/37M/123CF/1 PV with 20 months in French oak (20% new). Amazingly excellent again in 2005 rich creamy ripe fruit at top value! No rush.
2005 CALON SEGUR ST ESTEPHE Gasqueton Family since 1894 but sold to Suravenir Insurance in 2012. Old single block of 55 hectares (50 planted) now at increased density of 10000 vines/ha with ever more CS planted to eventually reach 70%. Distinctive Heart label for Marquis de Segur who made wine at Lafite & Latour but whose heart was at Calon. Outstanding wine of the tasting for sure. Admirable coffee mocha notes with structure and intensity just starting to open up. Outstanding future!
2005 OCULUS OKANAGAN BC This classy top Bordeaux blend wine of Mission Hill Family Estates started with purchased fruit in 1997. Lots of innovative changes since as they have continued in pursuit of the very highest quality by owner-proprietor Anthony von Mandl. 2005 made by John Simes is 42M/28CS/20CF/10PV after cooler 2004 with highest Merlot of 70%+ and forest fires of 2003 with cellar improvements showing. It shows softer textures with quite spicy pepper notes compared to the Bordeaux and is more advanced. Grab some of the remarkable 2020 Oculus, their best ever for balanced velvety flavours of big ripe fruit awarded 100 points by top Canadian wine author John Schreiner. They have come a long successful way. Congrats!
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