Archive for August, 2023

Lots of recent articles expressing the growing concern about the effect of climate change around the world on established terroir vineyards. Certainly becoming easier to obtain ripe higher sugar grapes at harvest time but less so in finding the ideal acidity with other elements for perfect elegant balance in the resulting wine. Lots of measures being taken from grape selection, canopy management to earlier picking dates but the jury is still out on their ultimate success in retaining the recognized respected Burgundy style. No doubt about it though as Bob Dylan would sing “The Times They Are A-Changin'” for wine terroirs everywhere.

However, one of the positive results of climate change your scribe has noticed more recently is the big improvement at the lower end of white Burgundy. Easy to admire the continuing classy complexity (if not the escalating prices) of Meursault Perrieres or Chevalier-Montrachet but it has been harder to find interest in Bourgogne Blanc. Sure there were exceptions like the old well-tended vines of hallmark producer Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc and a few others. But generally at the bottom end you were getting wines that showed lighter thinner higher acidity not quite ripe fruit at higher yields often from younger vines and cooler sites. Not anymore. Many of those non-classified vineyards including outreaching Hautes Cotes de Beaune and even Hautes Cotes de Nuits are now ripening the Chardonnay fruit much better and producing wines with subtle apricot, pear, and peach notes rather than just high apple-citrus. Sure they don’t have the body of a Puligny-Montrachet but they are rather delicious even early on and at fair value. Perfect for what you want from a current purchase. Also, don’t forget the much improved Village AC wines instead of just restricting your buys to Premier Cru & Grand Cru selections.

The BCLDB, private wine stores, and Vancouver restaurants are becoming aware of this new trend and are importing accordingly. Tasted many available Village & Bourgogne wines during 2023 and am impressed most by the earlier harvested 2020 vintage whites (after larger crop 2018 & smaller crop 2019) tending to a fresher pure more classic style. Challenging small crop 2021, and surprising 2022 plus unique 2023 should also land some treasures.

One of my favs 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet by Philippe Colin 13 abv is stylish aged in larger oak (450 & 500L) with a lovely balancing acidity which will age well throughout this decade to enjoy with a special meal. As well the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Les Chenes by Philippe Colin grown in deeper clay soils shows bright sweet cherries (not over-ripe 13.5 abv) and structure to evolve nicely. Cult Wines have brought in Domaine Gros Frere (Lutte Raisonnee) Bourgogne Blanc Hautes Cotes de Nuits. Last week for dinner at ELISA STEAKHOUSE (another Toptable group excellent restaurant) the comprehensive wine list developed by Wine Director Franco Michienzi shone brightly including young appropriate white Burgundies – see excerpt attached. After our discussion that we desired a tighter almost Chablis-like mineral salinity type Bourgogne Blanc to go with their outstanding whole grilled Branzino with covolo nero (Tuscan black kale), Franco recommended 2020 Domaine Francois Mikulski at 13 abv that was so perfectly paired to the dish plus so delicious. Q.E.D.

Question: As global warming continues with July 2023 the Earth’s hottest month on record does this mean grape harvests for wine will all be earlier?

Answer: Not necessarily. Beginning of August saw as usual western Sicily start picking sparkling grape varieties and Pinot Grigio – but actually this was later than in 2022. Crop yields in Sicily are down in 2023 with heavy rains in May, downy mildew in June and extreme heat in July, and presently wildfires affecting grape set and “veraison”. Generally August (plus September) is a key month where grape conditions are carefully monitored as ripening continues. However if the flowering and grape development is delayed this usually results in later picking. Much too early to finally assess 2023 harvests but it will be interesting to monitor the many wine regions in the northern hemisphere. Italy’s total harvest will be down due to extreme weather conditions including recently violent hail storms in Lombardy and Veneto, Napa Valley is expecting a possible delay due to a cool wet Spring and heavy losses in Bordeaux for sure because of downy mildew issues. Stay tuned for a really unique vintage year.

Your scribe has a long time passion for the wonderful unique flavours of Summer fruits. This is the season for fresh blueberries, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, melons, apricots, peaches, plums, watermelon, and so many more. Look forward to our local produce of all of them in the marketplaces – as local fresh in your own region is always best. However, perhaps my favourite berry fruit is wild blackberries or brambles. They grow all over the place here in Vancouver and I enjoy the challenge of awaiting their key perfect ripeness and foraging among the thorns picking the best berries. They are delicious on their own or sprinkled on cereal, yogurt, or whatever. We freeze them on trays and store them in plastic bags as well for future use. Some may dislike the seeds but what an amazing flavour and yet so healthy! Feel they really shine best for a dessert and presently are enthralled with both our blackberry crisp and homemade blackberry ice cream – or just as a straight puree with no seeds. Suggest you get out there and harvest some edible wild berries from your own region. Please let us know what you are finding and using.

A tried and true recipe for an easy Blackberry Crisp that we are really enjoying presdently with our freshly picked wild blackberries follows:

BLACKBERRY CRISP
Prepare your topping:
1/2 Cup Walnuts (toasted) and chopped and/or Almonds (toasted)
1/2 Cup Flour
1/3 Cup Oats
1/3 Cup Dark Brown Sugar
1/3 Cup Butter
1/4 teaspoon Salt

Mix dry ingredients for your topping, cut in butter, and set aside.

Preheat Oven to 375F

In a large bowl mix about 4 Cups washed & dried blackberries with 2-3 peaches, peeled , pitted, and sliced. Toss with 1 Tablespoon flour & 1/2 Cup berry sugar. Spread fruit evenly into a baking dish & cover with your topping. Bake for 35-40 minutes until the crisp topping is golden brown & juices bubble up on the sides. Serve hot or cold.

Enjoy!

Question: It is garlic season and I wonder if there is more than one type I should be buying?

Answer: Indeed there is a plethora of garlic varieties. More than you can imagine. Complicated. Different ones are available depending on where you live, the climate where they grow, and what is imported into your marketplace. Smart to know at least the two basics of choice Hardneck (long flowering stem or “scape”) and Softneck (not flowering with softer stalk & leaves). New impressive detailed reference article here from garlicstore.com/garlic-varieties to check out. The famous three-day Gilroy Garlic Festival in California started in 1979 but stopped in 2020 because of the Covid-19 pandemic and now is canceled. Other smaller ones still exist including on August 20 the Richmond (a suburb of Vancouver BC) Garlic Festival by The Sharing Farm Society with a press release here. Interesting to note the 4 distinct varieties they have grown on-site and will have available: Red Russian, Music, Italian Softneck, and Chesnok Red. Do you have a Garlic Festival in your region?