By Stefan Bauer, http://www.ferras.at (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

Always enjoy my educational visits to Burgundy – the most detailed continuing study in “terroir” in the world ! Maybe Piedmont is a close second. Two main thoughts are on everyone’s mind there presently.  Firstly, the shorter crops for 4 straight years (especially the last two vintages of 2012 & 2013) and the rising prices of their wines. Generally they haven’t reached yet the classified Bordeaux price levels but Burgundy could use a correction.  Secondly the hopes for a quality harvest of much larger volume in 2014 that will help improve all these issues.  Another hot topic for discussion is the request for raised status of some top classified Premier Cru vineyards to Grand Cru.  Staying in the village of Pommard during my week in Burgundy showed some growing support for Les Epenots and at least the best part of Rugiens-Bas to join Corton as the only Grand Cru in the Cote de Beaune. Not many changes since 1981 when the Clos des Lambrays (the majority of which was just purchased last month by LVMH) in Morey St. Denis of the Cote de Nuits was moved up to Grand Cru. However, in my opinion there are other vineyards presently at least as deserving or more so including among many candidates Les Amoureuses in Chambolle-Musigny, Clos Saint -Jacques in Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Saint Georges in Nuits St. Georges, and Perrieres in Meursault. Difficult because some others there believe in leaving matters as the status quo because Grand Cru brings other problems including more restrictive production laws and raised property valuations for tax purposes.

As usual many outstanding wine and food experiences but here are a few highlights:

Vineyards just outside Beaune
By The original uploader was Hedwig Storch at German Wikipedia(Original text: de:Benutzer:Hedwig Storch) (Self-photographed) [CC BY-SA 2.0 de], via Wikimedia Commons

DROUHIN: Discussions, tastings, and lunch with Veronique Drouhin-Boss who was just back from judging at the South African Wine Awards. She is excited about the new diversity offered by their acquisition of vineyards mostly pinot noir in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA in Oregon to go along with their successful Dundee Hills base. In the ancient cellars in Beaune they still have an old manual press with a cranking wheel from 1671 that they used first in 1980 and last in 2005. I liked her personal vineyard 2010 Vosne Romanee Aux Petits Monts (next to Richebourg) usually producing only about 3-5 barrels that her father Robert bought for her in 1985 when she passed her oenology exam. Also the impressive Asian spice & styling of 2001 Grands Echezeaux that now has added some charm to the more tannic structure. While I was in the Denis Perret wine shop Frederic Drouhin came over to say hello to me and tell me he thought their 2011 Pouilly Vinzelles selling for just 12.70 euros was a special quality value success.

COMTE DE VOGUE: Discussions with Jean Luc Pepin who was just leaving for a tasting in Washington DC and 2013 barrel tasting before the malos (“malic skin around a balloon of fruit”) with the talented natural method Francois Millet Chef de Cave-Oenologue. Francois once lived in Calgary for 3 years and started at Vogue in 1986. When he retires he would like to spend part time in France and part time somewhere near Revelstoke, Three Valley Gap or the Okanagan. Hope so. Impressive sample from cask of their .1 hectare of 1er cru Les Baudes (not enough for a separate bottling) that along with 1er cru Les Fuees is declassified and blended with other vines from Les Porlottes for their AC Chambolle-Musigny. Their 1er cru Chambolle is also declassified Grand Cru Musigny of vines under 25 years of age. Francois finds aromas of “white flowers of the morning, pomegranate, and the importance of both the physiology of the vine, and the influence of night & day temperatures”. I really like the riper creamy Les Amoureuses, elegant Bonnes Mares and majestic Musigny  “like a beautiful landscape”.  He says they are now using 35% new oak on the Bonnes Mares & Musigny and 20-25% on the others.

BOUCHARD PERE: Some instructive mini verticals shown by the amazing Luc Bouchard. Especially comparing 12, 11, 10, 08, and 05 of Beaune Greves Vigne De L’Enfant Jesus & Le Corton. Luc says he usually can pick 2011 out in a blind tasting because of that smoky burnt character coming mainly from the stems. Excellent precision and purity to the 2010s such a natural beauty with cool classic fruit. 2005 Le Corton developed a “creamy white chocolate, cherry eau de vie with minerals”. The 1961 Le Corton served at our catered lunch in the guest cottage was a special treat so smooth and silky proving the ability of this underrated terroir to improve greatly in top vintages with long ageing. The whites showed especially ripe peaches and flowers in the 2012 Beaune du Chateau 1er cru Blanc yet clean and fresh from reduced pressing time in this vintage.  Both Grand Cru Chevalier Montrachet & Corton Charlemagne showed their vintages well. 2012 more generous rich power, 2011 purity and balance, difficult conditions of 2010 resulted in a smaller crop ripe and concentrated picked at the perfect time to avoid alcohol issues and showing it is a very special vintage for whites too.

LOUIS JADOT: Long extensive 2013 barrel tasting from usually one year old casks some of which had been recently racked with dynamic Sigfried Pic of 20 whites and 14 reds. Some top wines in development including Domaine Gagey rich creamy complex Beaune Greves 1er cru Blanc, potential of the only 2 casks of Puligny Caillerets (same limited number produced as the red Volnay Clos de Chenes), full of minerals Corton Charlemagne, Pommard Rugiens, seductive open top value Gevrey Estornelles, deeper Clos St Jacques,  underrated big Chapelle-Chambertin, and with another dimension entirely Chambertin Clos de Beze  (only 7 casks). Pierre-Henry Gagey came over to say hello as he was off to Hong Kong for their Vinexpo. Told him it brought back memories of the first Vinexpo in New York in mid October 2002. Pierre-Henry attended and addressed a small media meeting there including myself extolling the greatness of 2002 Burgundy to what were at that time a very skeptical group. Such bad weather in Rhone and Piedmont among others that it was hard to believe that Burgundy had been blessed. How right he was!

FAIVELEY: Now have a new small Costral bottling machine for top wines to be filled at a lower speed. 90% of the oak is Francois Frere & Taransaud barrels (with some Sequin Moreau). Some 2013 Latricieres in Taransaud top T5 oak. 3 plots of Chambertin Clos de Beze kept separately before blending. New labels for the Domaine Grand Crus from 2011. Tasted lots of bottled 2012. Impressed by Puligny Montrachet Champ Gain balance and minerals and less oaky at the same 40% new than Meursault Blagny. Nuits St Georges Les Porets showing freshness and spicy aromatics. Only 3465 bottles of Corton Charlemagne were produced in 2011. The good news is that they have replanted some old pinot noir vines with now producing chardonnay but still too young to be in the Grand Vin. Eventually we can expect another 1000-1050 more bottles of this always delicious nectar. 7th generation leader Erwan Faiveley and his team are doing an excellent job.

Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune
By Stefan Bauer, http://www.ferras.at (Own work) [CC BY-SA 2.5], via Wikimedia Commons

RESTAURANTS: My top is still Ma Cuisine in Passage Sainte -Helene off Place Carnot in Beaune (macuisine@wanadoo.fr) only open Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday. Outstanding Terrine de Foie Gras 20E or Compote de Lapin a L’Estragon 16E starters and mains of the best Pigeon Entier Roti au Jus ever for 38E or Magret de Canard Roti au Jus 24E. Most expensive dish was Ris de Veau a la Crème at 39E. Extensive wine list with fair pricing well handled decanting. My second recommendation would be Chez Guy in Gevrey-Chambertin (info@chez-guy.fr) for excellent food with a 3 course lunch menu for 31E.

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By Joseph Temple

With only a few months in office, President Gerald Ford had already hosted four official state dinners.  No less than a week after telling Americans that the “long national nightmare” of Watergate was finally over, the new commander-in-chief was sipping 1967 Louis Roederer Cristal alongside the King of Jordan.  And only days after granting a full, free and absolute pardon to Richard Nixon, White House officials uncorked a bottle of 1964 Dom Pérignon to celebrate the arrival of Israel’s Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin.  But for the dinner honoring Chancellor Bruno Kreisky of Austria, a new milestone in the history of 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue was about to take place.

On the table that night next to Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon and Napa Valley sparkling wine was a bottle of 1971 Vidal Blanc.  Only this bottle came from Michigan – the first wine from not only the Wolverine State, but from the entire mid-west to be served at the White House.

Mistakenly identified on the menu as Trebbiano, this particular vintage came from the Tabor Hill Winery of Buchanan, Michigan – located in the southwestern part of the state.  Because Michigan’s ten wineries  grew grape varieties that could endure the icy winters of the Great Lakes region, they were able to experience such phenomenal growth that by 1974 they were in the top rankings with California and New York in terms of production.  So with a Grand Rapids native in the oval office, it was only a matter of time before his home state’s wine industry was thrust into the national spotlight.

While singer Vikki Carr prepared to sing her 1974 hit “One Hell of a Woman” to an audience that included Henry Kissinger and Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas, White House chefs got ready for the evening.  On the menu that night was a rich breast of pheasant paired with earthy wild rice (a Ford administration favorite) and chestnut purée.

Marking the first time soup was offered as the opening course since the Eisenhower administration, the second course, cold smoked rainbow trout, was arguably an ode to the Austrian guests.  And paired perfectly to this was the Michigan Vidal Blanc – subtle and fruity with citrus and pear notes, it was robust and dry enough to withstand the smokiness of the fish.  So great was this wine, that for the next five years, Tabor Hill was seen on numerous other White House function menus.

Thus, November 12^th, 1974 marked the day Michigan wine had entered the mainstream.

(Left) The menu. According to Michiganwines.com, the White House incorrectly listed their wine as Trebbiano. (Right) An article in the Dayton Beach Morning Journal announcing the selection of Michigan wine.
(click to enlarge both)

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By THOR [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: How important are vintage dates on a bottle of wine?

Answer: Very important! Even more so in regions that are quite weather variable like Burgundy & Piedmont. Less so in warmer more consistent weather areas like California and Chile. If there is no vintage date (NV) at all shown then it is suspicious as plonk where the winemaker is blending some left over non-saleable wine with the current vintage in order to get rid of it. Nonetheless I have enjoyed some NV wines like Rick Small’s Walla Walla winery Woodward Canyon in Washington State for his value jammy NV Red Wine Bordeaux grape blend with syrah. Always enjoyed in the old days NV Beaune de Chateau Blanc 1er Cru Bouchard Pere but now these are always vintage dated. NV now seems more restricted to use on fortified wines of port, sherry, and madeira. The other remaining holdout is Sparkling and especially Champagne where they are blending to achieve a consistent House Style. Best example is Krug Grande Cuvee (before 1978 called Private Cuvee) that uses the blender’s art of up to 120 wines from 10+ vintages amounting to 35-50% reserves for the resulting final wine. Here at a high level they are combining the best characteristics of many unique vintages as a multi vintage to produce something even better than sometimes can be produced from just one year. Therefore do not underrate all NV Champagnes. However, for collectors and at auction best wines still need a famous vintage date attached to various wines and among those that will continue to prevail include 1945 Mouton, 1947 Cheval Blanc, 1949 Latour, 1959 Lafite, 1961 Palmer, 1962 La Tache, 1967 d’Yquem, 1970 Vega Sicilia, 1974 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard, 1977 Fonseca Vintage Port, 1978 Barolo Monfortino Giacomo Conterno, 1985 Sassicaia, 1990 Margaux, 1991 Ridge Monte Bello among others.

What more recent vintage classics do you see as outstanding and continuing to increase in value?

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So many things to do and see in Paris and not enough time. The requisite museums, art galleries, chocolate & pastry shops, markets, passage ways, restaurants, parks, bridges etc. have to be checked out and everywhere you look including Google there are even more suggestions. It is still thrilling to find new discoveries on your own as well. Nonetheless here are some of my ideas that brought joy on another visit during May 2014:

A. MARKETS:

Fav is still Marche D’Aligre 12A. Stop at nearby Ble Sucre for Pain aux Raisins. Also old Rue Mouffetard 5A and Rue Montorgueil 1A. Less impressed this trip with touristy Cler 7A and Poncelet 17A.

B. BREAD:

So many choices! Even the contest for the best baquette won the last 2 years by spots in the southerly 14A. Fav still wood burning ovens of Du Pain Et Des Idees 34 rue Yves Toudic 10A – wonderful croissants (1E45), “escargot” pastry (2E80) of pistache, pralines, and raisins. Baguettes and quarter loaf Pain des Amis (2E45), and quarter of grainy Epeautre (4E20). Dependable locations of Eric Kayser hard to beat.

C. STORES:

Great shopping. Check out department stores of Galeries Lafayette, Printemps both on Blvd Haussmann and Bon Marche. Excellent food sections. My wife Joan likes Arche for shoes. Monoprix super groceries and even classy Le Mesnil Grand Cru Champagne (22E50). Nicolas has frequent sales and some cheap wine prices at C Discount 63 rue du Bac 7A.

D. GLACE et SORBET:

Berthillion – 31 rue St. Louis en l’Ile. Ice Creams. True passion fruit and pear flavours. Grom – 81 rue de Seine 6A. Outstanding gelato preferred over Amorino locations.

By Twice25 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

E. WALKS:

So many passageways and bridges and romantic parks. Be sure to walk the 12A Promenade Plantee (tree lined elevated walkway).

F. RESTAURANTS – 10 varied choices:

1. AKRAME 16A Visited for 4th straight year and just received 2nd Michelin star 2014.
Always outstanding with amazing pigeon.

2. SPRING 1A Chef Daniel Rose only doing dinners now with the surprise fresh market items.

3. RECH 17A Classy new 1 star Michelin with a fresh sustainable fish emphasis from famous chefs Jacques Maximin/Alain Ducasse.

4. MON VIEIL AMI 4A Many lunch visits for the fantastic Plat de Jour for 15E50 which is published a week ahead and might be comfort Blanquette de Veau, Beef Cheeks, or Osso Buco
all with lots of vegetables. Chef Antoine Westermann previously had a 3 star in Strasbourg. Also has poultry at Le Coq Rico 18A and soon opening one in New York 32 East 20th. Go to Berthillon afterwards for dessert.

5. SEPTIME 11A Another new 1 star chef Bertrand Grebaut. Value 3 course lunch 28E

6. COME A CASA 11A Super Italian find Chef Flavia Federici & Gianluca

7. LES ENFANTS ROUGE 3A Japanese chef Dai Shinozuka & wife Tomo cooking French with a lovely spotlight in NY Times Magazine March 30, 2014.

8. FISH LA BOISSONNERIE 6A Many visits. Always dependable value for the quality. Visit Grom after for dessert.

9. LE BISTROT PAUL BERT 11A Old fashioned but amazing 19E 3 course value of tasty herring potato salad, roast chicken and macaroon chocolate. On his own street at #16 with another one slightly more upscale at #6.

10. LE RICHER 9A Fun bar snack spot anytime. Good Aubergine-Burrata 6E50 & Tortilla 5E

Enjoy your next visit to Paris!

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By Joseph Temple

With the explosion of visual-centric websites like Pinterest, Instagram and Houzz.com, you can now look at an endless stream of jaw-dropping private cellars that are the envy of every oenophile. But what if you don’t have the money to construct extravagant spiral staircases, rustic open beams and expensive ivory tiles?  Don’t worry – here are nine principles for creating a wine cellar — no matter what your budget is:

1. Feel the temperature rising?

Before even thinking about going to the hardware store to begin this DIY project, you first need to see if the designated area is suitable for hosting a wine cellar. Ideally, you want the space’s constant temperature to be between 50° F (10° C) and 59°F (15° C).  Any warmer and it will cause a fast maturation of your bottles; any temperature above 72°F (22°C) will most likely result in evaporation over time.  On the other end of the spectrum, colder temperatures will prolong the maturation process and below 30°F (-1°C) could freeze the wine.

So to see if the area is suitable, take multiple thermal readings with a good old fashioned thermometer.  Record the room’s temperature during a hot summer day and a cold winter night.  The key is to avoid large fluctuations, which will severely damage your long-term collection.  To help insulate your wine from these changes in the weather, install rigid foam boards.

Additional tip: Heat rises so place the white wines at the bottom of the rack and the reds at the top.

2. Humidity Matters

Equally important is the amount of humidity in a room, which should be between 55 and 75 percent (or 60 to 80 percent depending on who you talk to).  Any greater can cause mold and mildew to form on your bottles and any lower can result in the cork drying out, allowing oxygen to enter the bottle and thus evaporating (and ruining) the wine.

Just like temperature, you need to monitor the room’s humidity at different times of the day and year so invest in a hygrometer.  If the room is too humid, you might want to think about buying a small dehumidifier (usually under $300) that allows you to control the percentage in the room.  Another trick if you’re struggling with an area that’s too dry is to spread sand on the floor and regularly sprinkle it with water to increase the level of humidity.

Additional tip: Apply hairspray to the labels of your bottles to protect them from increased humidity.

3. Hit the Lights

When constructing a wine cellar, keep in mind that you’re creating the modern day equivalent of a medieval dungeon.  Any sunlight that enters your cellar can penetrate glass causing the wine to turn brown.  You’ll want your collection to sit in perpetual darkness so if there are any windows nearby, block them out with curtains or shades year-round.  And decide if you want to install a small light bulb or use a flashlight for when you have to identify and/or retrieve a bottle from your collection.

4. Keep the air flowing

Make sure that wherever you store your collection there is proper ventilation.  Both strong and stale smells can affect the flavor of your wine so add a vent (if there isn’t one already) in the room to keep the air circulating.  But if you install any foam boards or insulation mentioned in Tip #1, check that they don’t block any vents.  Also, make sure that you don’t store wine bottles next to paint cans, chemicals or fridges. Basically anything with a strong odor you want to keep as far away from your cellar as possible.

5. No vibrations are good vibrations!

In addition to smell, movements and vibrations can hinder the aging process.  So carefully assess any appliances or objects in the vicinity of your wine cellar and consider moving them.  Refrigerators, dryers and power tools are on the top of the list and if you live near busy roads or train tracks, keep your collection away from the walls and off the floor to minimize the effect that these vibrations can have.

6. Choose the right storage

Working on a budget, you might want to consider buying clay pipes or clay tiles to store your bottles.  On the plus side, they rarely deteriorate and the thermal mass of these tiles helps to maintain the ideal temperature and humidity by reducing year-round climate fluctuations.  Try searching for these items on websites like Kijiji and Craig’s list where you can pick them up for pennies per tile/pipe.  Just make sure they are un-cracked, clean and have not become mildewed.

7. Cataloging your collection

There are many ways to keep your cellar organized and up-to-date (several blog entries could be written on this subject alone).  If you’re traditional, you can purchase a cellar book and manually enter your inventory.  But in the digital age, your best bet is to create a spreadsheet or buy one of the many inventory management software applications to record all relevant information.  Keep in mind that with computer viruses always floating around, its best to save your work using cloud computing by uploading your files to a 3rd party site.  And if you decide to use a cellar book, be sure to keep it in a room other than the one hosting your collection for insurance purposes.  In fact, if you ever want to insure your collection down the road, having it properly cataloged is a must in order to get a policy.

 Additional tip: Buy some paper or plastic tags that hang over the necks of bottles to help organize your collection.

8. Be prepared for a possible flood

If you live in an area that is prone to flooding, you shouldn’t keep your collection in the basement.  Instead, keep it as high as possible and make sure the bottles are stored in sturdy racks off the floor.

9. Beware of insects

When it comes to infestation, you can never be too safe.  Insects are infamous for eating their way through wine corks so even one bug is one too many when it comes to wine cellars.  To be proactive, plug in an orderless insect strip sold at your local hardware store to ward off any possible infestation.  And if you want to take it one step further, wrap your bottles in plastic so they are kept air tight.

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With many branches of the International Wine & Food Society having their own cellars including many individual members, perhaps they can share any helpful tips they might have in the comment section below.  Cheers!

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