Question: My favorite local restaurant is finally allowing BYOW.  What can I bring to please everyone at the table?

Answer: The increased costs of stocking a reasonable cellar for new smaller restaurants is becoming a problem. More are opting out and this development together with the increased allowability to bring your own wine to the dining establishment for a reasonable corkage fee makes this a timely question. Many would cop out by saying the right answer is definitely to bring the wine you personally like the best – at least you will enjoy the wine!  Certainly a big Cab, Bordeaux, or Syrah will go nicely with a steak or other red meats but are much less accommodating with so many other foods so that would be quite a risky pick.

However, there are certain types that are definitely more versatile for any foods that might be served. The following 5 suggestions spring immediately to mind:

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Which wines improve with age? Why are some bottles of champagne so expensive?  What type of food would you pair with a specific wine?  There are so many questions but who do you ask?  How about the International Wine and Food Society.

The IW&FS is excited to announce the addition of a new feature on the blog site called “Ask Sid,” where users can send in their wine and/or food related questions to Honorary President Sid Cross, who will respond every week with his expert opinion.

Send your questions to iwfshelp@gmail.com and sign-up and for our e-mail updates so you can be notified instantly of Sid’s responses which are every #winewednesday

Sid Cross was the Wines Committee Chair for many years for The International Wine & Food Society. He is the only Canadian to be inducted as a Membre d’Honneur of the L’Academie du vin de Bordeaux and be awarded The Gourmet of the Year by The Society of Bacchus America (‘for outstanding knowledge of food and wines and for imparting this knowledge to others’). He has been promoted by the French Government from Chevalier to Officer status in the prestigious Ordre du Merite Agricole.

He is a frequent wine judge, panelist and entertaining educator on wine and food. These presently include among many others the prestigious Lieutenant-Governor Awards For Excellence, Vancouver Magazine Wine Competition, Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival, Okanagan Wine Festivals, and Whistler’s Cornucopia.

He is a wine and food guru for several wine and food publications. Co-founder and advisor to The Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia he is in demand as a culinary judge including the Olympic Gold Medal Plates in Vancouver, The Canadian Culinary Championships, International Chocolate Awards for Canada, and Oeanwise’s BC Sustainable Seafood Chowder Chowdown Competition.

Photo credit: davidtoutain.com

Talented chef David Toutain opened his eponymous 35 seat restaurant without tablecloths at 29 rue Surcouf in the 7thA Paris less than 5 months ago but already it is a very hot ticket. Only in his early thirties he brings an impressive resume including “premieres experiences” at Loiseau, L’Arpege, L’Ambroisie, Retour a L’Arpege, Marc Veyrat, and Mugaritz. On June 28, 2011 he opened Agape Substance his first chef de cuisine posting showing off some unique impressive exciting cuisine until leaving in December 2012. Some memorable lunch and dinner prix fixe menus there based on Themes such as Tomate, Girolle, Pigeon, Cochon, Fromage, Carotte among many. Since then David and family have been on learning “Voyages” including Singapore, Japan, Copenhagen (Geranium), San Francisco, and New York.

Like his flagship statement that “Tous les gouts sont dans La Nature”. For more background depth check out his brand new first book published March 2014 by Argol in French called La Cuisine De david toutain (with excellent photos by spouse thai toutain) third in a new Vivres serie Gestes following Pierre Gagnaire and Bertrand Grebaut of Septime.

The fixed price Printemps Menu Reine des Pres is 98 euros (or 158 with wine pairings well chosen by Alejandro) for around 10 exquisite courses (plus 3 amuse – one a sensational airy light as a feather layered sponge cake of fresh green peas and verbena). Many highlights too detailed to list here but marvelled at the well thought out progression of dishes: Oysters & kiwi cleverly matched; Potato soup & Fava Bean salad; BBQ green asparagus; Squid & White Garlic; Steamed Whiting on Pesto; Smoked Eel in Black Sesame with green apple bits; top quality remarkable whole Loin of Pork paraded raw through the full dinng room before perfectly cooked for everyone; Outstanding 48 month shaved Comte; Desserts including potato puree under fresh raspberry & pure essence of parsley sorbet. I also was impressed by the conscientious service and the decor with a feature wall of small pieces of wood intricately done – reminiscient of the walls in the new Trade & Convention Centre in Vancouver. Two small quibbles: The cringing sound similar to nails on a blackboard as I scrapped with my metal spoon for more of the yummy sauce on the sides of the distinct beautifully designed Belgian pottery used. Secondly I understand the menu will be a surprise but still most guests would appreciate reliving it with a printed take away information sheet of what they were served. I also mentioned this issue to David while he was at Agape Substance and they should follow up on this small omission to such a wonderful dinner experience.

Based on the creative dishes with delicious textured flavours I experienced in early May 2014 he is certainly well prepared for this new undertaking. This place already is better than most 1 star Michelin restaurants and in my opinion will soon be vying for Top 50 Best Restaurants in the World. Highly recommend you treat yourself on your next visit to Paris!

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(Left) President Thomas Woodrow Wilson. (Right) Wilson’s wine cellar at 2340 S St NW, Washington, DC. Photos courtesy Library of Congress. (click to enlarge)

By Joseph Temple

A great show to check out on the History Channel is 10 Thing You Don’t Know About, a documentary series that uncovers little-known facts about popular historical subjects.  And during a recent episode dealing with the topic of prohibition, viewers were given a fascinating tour of President Woodrow Wilson’s private wine cellar.  According to the historian interviewed on the program, the collection was moved directly from the White House to Wilson’s home at 2340 S Street in Washington DC as he left office in March of 1921.  But with prohibition in effect – and the transportation of alcohol illegal – the ex-president was given a special exemption by Congress to move his vast collection to what is now known as Woodrow Wilson House, a U.S. National Historic Landmark.

Reading Garrett Peck’s Prohibition in Washington D.C.: How Dry We Weren’t, the author notes that Wilson’s collection included many bottles of Champagne and Bordeaux from the 1920s which were probably given to him and his wife by Parisian diplomats working on Embassy Row in D.C. In fact, fellow Treaty of Versailles architect and former French Prime Minister Georges Clemenceau visited Wilson during his three-year stay on S Street.  Of course, being the good house guest, Clemenceau most likely brought a few bottles with him as a present for his gracious hosts!

Occupying the lowest room of the entire house, the president’s wine cellar symbolizes the many double standards of the prohibition era.  While the country’s poor risked prosecution for the mere consumption of alcohol, Wilson along with numerous manor-born politicians and wealthy elites acted as if the laws didn’t apply to them – and in most cases they didn’t.   Having a bottle in one hand and an Anti-Saloon League membership card in the other, many in Congress violated in private the policies they advocated for in public.  In fact, the reason why Wilson became so adamant in moving his collection from 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue was out of fear that his successor Warren Harding – a staunch supporter of the temperance movement — would drink it all.

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By PRA (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons
By Mick Stephenson (mixpix) based on original by Plamen Georgiev (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

New Zealand Winegrowers just presented in Vancouver an excellent Master Class on “Get the Dirt on New Zealand Pinot Noir” showing 13 pinot noirs from 7 regions all served in appropriate shaped Riedel glasses. Their industry has done an admirable job now exporting 70% of wine production. Amazing when you consider that 70% of their vines are still under 12 years old. They also are to be congratulated on getting wonderful compliance from most everyone on using sustainable farming practices. World recognition for NZ Sauvignon Blanc is now quickly followed by other aromatics as well as a viable competitor for a range of pinot noirs. Also really enjoyed the fresh so drinkable Forrest “The Doctors” 2012 dry SB coming in at only 9.5 alcohol from earlier low yield pickings and fermented at quite low temperatures. The descriptive characteristics given for the pinot noir regions  in New Zealand are as follows:

(1) NELSON: “Small region of artists and artisans. Fragrant, complex, softly textured with bright cherry and plum flavours”.

(2) MARLBOROUGH: “The largest region for pinot noir. Bright red fruit, raspberries and plums. Linear structure with even tannins”.

(3) WAIPARA VALLEY: “Limestone influences in areas. Red fruit and darker plummy, sweet fruits, with hints of pepper ad spice. Firm tannins and acidity.”

(4) WAITAKI VALLEY: ” Rare wines from limestone country”. Dark fruit and minerals cut with suave acidity”.

(5) CENTRAL OTAGO: “World’s most southerly wine region. Black cherry flavours, fresh herbs. Firm.”

(6) WAIRARAPA: “Wider, younger region beyond Martinborough. Slightly more lifted cherry flavours than Martinborough, plus plum and tobacco”.

(7) MARTINBOROUGH: Oldest pinot noir region with some vines 30 years old. Fuller, supple style with plum, chocolate and meat”.

I encourage you to try more pinot noirs from New Zealand. They generally all have a bright lively acidity that matches well and improves them with food. These four dishes were served half way through the tasting and paired successfully: Tombo Tuna Tataki, Fresh Wasabi, Smoky Tentsuyu Sauce; Ginger Chicken Jiaozi Potsticker, Braised Burdock; Seared Halibut, Pata Negra Iberico Chorizo Butter; Portobello Mushroom Curry, Crispy Pakora.

Have you tried NZ pinot noir? What region?

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