Everyone seems to know there are really only four basic things you can taste: salty, sour, sweet, and bitter. Right? Later on we added a fifth one called umami or savoury to cover those items like mushrooms, cheese, cooked tomatoes, chicken, fish etc. that didn’t clearly fit into those basic four. I have always questioned this theory of such limited taste senses. I often thought I could smell and also taste different basic elements in many foods and even some wines like the grassy herbal fresh sauvignon blanc to the kerosene petrol of aged riesling. Now there is growing research support for this premise set out in an article by Peter Andrey Smith published by the New York Times in their Well Section on July 22, 2014 titled “Beyond Salty and Sweet: A Budding Club of Tastes.”  They state that “Contrary to popular belief, there is no tongue map – responsiveness is present in all areas of the tongue.” Richard D Mattes a professor of nutrition science at Purdue University is quoted “What started off as a challenge to the pantheon of basic tastes has now opened up, so that the whole question is whether taste is even limited to a very small number of primaries.” The author mentions support for many new tastes to consider including listed soapiness, lysine, electric, alkaline, hydroxide, metallic and fattiness. This later one seems to have the most support and varies from the rich gooey texture we like to the rancid taste as a warning sign that we don’t like it. What are you able to taste? What expansion of basic tastes do you support?

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By Joseph Temple

Whether you’re grilling outdoors or cooking indoors, try some of these wine-full combinations.  Have fun with the varietals to see which you like best.

1. Merlot + garlic + thyme + brow sugar + oil

2. Chardonnay + lemon + garlic + pepper + rosemary

3. Sauvignon Blanc + apple juice + sage + honey

4. Muscat + honey + water

5. Pinot Grigio + dijon + lemon + pepper

6. Sparkling wine + sesame oil + mirin + lime + sugar + soy sauce

7. Cabernet Franc + red onion + soy sauce + red pepper jelly + parsley

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By michael clarke stuff (Cars, Blaye 02 HDR) [CC BY-SA 2.0 or CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I thought 2013 Bordeaux was a difficult vintage year but now am hearing conflicting reports. Would you set me straight Sid?

Answer: I will try. The weather conditions in Bordeaux were rainy and not sunny enough to ripen the red grapes in 2013. The white grapes developed better and there will be some excellent white Bordeaux & Sauternes with lots of botrytis to acquire and enjoy. Remember that there are always merchants out there with a vested interest to be bullish and to try to sell you the latest new inventory or even futures. Also there will be some producers able to make fine wine even  in difficult conditions. In fact lower yields resulted in less total wine with a majority going into the second and third labels rather than the Grand Vin so there may be some better values at lower alcohol. However for the Bordeaux consumer 2013 is caveat emptor – or buyer beware – and unless you need the vintage for a vertical why buy a bad vintage which is risky rather than a consistently ripe vintage like 2009 or 2010 or even the great 2005. There are some fun tongue in cheek articles on this vintage such as one by Ron Washam posted on http://www.timatkin.com/articles?1197. My friend John Salvi MW who contributed a brilliant essay “Making Red Wine to Age – A Technical Discussion” in my Monograph of “An Appreciation of the Age of Wine” has a fantastic analysis of the 2013 conditions at www.indianwineacademy.com/item_1_606.aspx. Hope this helps.

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By Myself (It’s me) [GFDL or CC-BY-SA-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Dining out at several restaurants recently I marveled at how so many younger sommeliers have such a great handle on the distinct characteristics of the different wines they have put on their wine list and knowing what food dishes best complement each wine. This requires a lot of intensive study and is undoubtedly a most valuable skill to acquire. Got me thinking about what other skills should a top sommelier bring to their interesting job.  Remembered the late great Charlie Trotter’s eponymous Chicago restaurant that opened in 1987 and his book series on Lessons because he inspired so many top sommeliers in their craft including Master Larry Stone. Dug out his Lessons in Wine Service by Edmund O. Lawler (2008 Ten Speed Press) and the conclusions reached there and quoted below as follows for your consideration:

“The sommelier must be the best service person in the house…must have the ability to:

SCAN THE ROOM – Court Vision

READ A GUEST  – Discern the guest’s needs…Listening skills are paramount

ANTICIPATE – Develop a sixth sense for what the guest may want next

NAVIGATE – Guide through a three-hour dining experience…Must take complete ownership of the table

OPERATE WITH STYLE AND GRACE –  Conscious of the guest’s space

TASTE – Sommelier’s discerning palate can help protect a guest

COOPERATE – Exercise tact when working with the kitchen

LEAD – General service staff look to sommelier for guidance…must be able to guide the flow of service

INSPIRE – Convey a sense of enthusiasm to the staff

MENTOR – Share their wisdom and experience

ACCEPT CRITICISM – Alert…to things that need to be done better

ADMIT MISTAKES – Never pointing fingers and by working with the guest on steps to make it right

NEGOTIATE – Know the market, pricing trends, and how to economically fill the cellars

REPRESENT THE RESTAURANT – Face of the restaurant…must be an articulate spokesperson for the restaurant

ORGANIZE – Weekly training sessions must have a sharp focus and a clear objective

MASTER THE ART OF HOSPITALITY – Make a guest feel at ease…It’s the mark of a gracious host”

Which are most important to you? Any further skills to add?

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Question: I am hosting a wedding that is serving steak and fish. What wine recommendations would you make based on a modest budget of under $40 per bottle?

Answer: Your total number attending is an important missing fact. If a small intimate dinner of 8-12 serve a variety of wines as one bottle of each wine will work nicely. However I am assuming it must be an larger event with many friends. Not sure if you are serving one combined course of “surf & turf” or an alternate main of steak or fish. Regardless keep it simple but try to give everyone a choice of one red or one white. This will make the serving and especially re-pours much easier for the staff. Don’t neglect the idea of sparkling throughout – say a white or a rose. After all it is a festive occasion that suits Champagne but on your limited budget there still are lots of other excellent bubbles available for you to use. Most wedding receptions have fierce mark-ups so $40 though suitable at retail might not get you much quality at your special wedding location. Possibly Cava with the always reliable Segura Viudas  and the new fresh dry Freixenet Cordon Rosado. Latest vintage Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay for the fish from the Casablanca or Leyda regions of Chile are good value around $15. Admire what Cono Sur does with all their wines – including my fav of 20 Barrels Pinot Noir around $25. Another idea would be a Viognier from Languedoc – maybe Three Winds 2012/2013. Malbec from Argentina is much improved and popular in such an easy approachable style for a young red – lots of choice but dependable Norton Barrel Select 2010/2011 is intense and peppery. The key is to try and choose food wines that are fresh and acceptable to the majority of your guests.