Dining for Détente: The role food played during Nixon’s trip to China

Dining for Détente: The role food played in Nixon's trip to China
By Joseph Temple

In preparation for Richard Nixon’s groundbreaking trip to the People’s Republic of China in 1972, an enormous amount of classified material was created for the U.S. diplomatic team traveling with the president.  National Security Advisor Henry Kissinger briefed Nixon extensively during the months leading up to the visit, going over every detail in this high stakes game of diplomatic chess with Premier Chou En-lai.  And while the biggest issues during these talks would be over Taiwan and Indochina, in retrospect, the most important briefings the president and his team received were the ones regarding the food they were about to eat.

“The Chinese take great pride in their food,” declared one memo.  Another recommended that Nixon stroke their egos at the dinner table as “they react with much pleasure to compliments about the truly remarkable variety of tastes, textures and aromas in Chinese cuisine.”  In terms of what to expect, nothing was left off the table.  Although Kissinger and Alexander Haig had been served delicious Peking duck in their preliminary meetings with the Communist Chinese, anything from shark fins to bird’s nests could appear on the president’s plate.

Knowing that the trip would either make or break him, Nixon left nothing to chance.  Always one to brush up on an important subject, the president carefully studied the Chinese and their customs.  “You should not be offended at the noisy downing of soups, or even at burping after a meal,” one document warned.  For months, he, his wife Pat and Dr. Kissinger all took lessons on how to properly use chopsticks, even practicing on the flight over. Of course, all this preparation was not just for his gracious hosts but for the American people watching on their television sets back home.

Nixon visits china secret memo
A document prepared for the Nixon team advising them to compliment their hosts.

Scheduling this visit during an election year was a risky move to say the least.  In the suburbs of middle America, the patriotic anti-Communist “Silent Majority” that Nixon needed to secure his re-election was apprehensive about easing relations with the Chinese – the same Chinese that the United States battled just twenty years earlier on the Korean Peninsula.  And with all of the official discussions being held in strict secrecy, Americans needed a visual aid to act as their own diplomatic barometer.

Of course, Richard Nixon made sure they got one.

Realizing the enormous power of a photo-op, the administration stressed the superficial aspects of the visit.  It was no coincidence that Air Force One landed at the Capital Airport at 11:32 A.M. Beijing time.  Across the United States, it was prime time when the president and Chou shook hands, giving millions of Americans the chance to watch this symbolic act live via satellite.   It also wasn’t a coincidence that of the one hundred journalists accompanying the commander-in-chief to China, those in television were given preference over their colleagues in print.  While personally despising most of the media, the president also knew that a carefully controlled press parroting the administration’s narrative through stunning visuals could sway public opinion over to Nixon.

For the next stunning a visual, an extravagant banquet had been prepared for nearly six hundred guests at the Great Hall of the People.  With giant American and PRC flags towering over the captivated audience, a series of congratulatory toasts were made by Nixon and Chou to usher in a new era of understanding.  It was here where food and drink played perhaps the most important role in convincing the American people that Nixon had pulled off the greatest foreign policy coup in a lifetime.


A video prepared for the U.S. diplomatic team
outlining the differences in the American and Chinese diets.

For beverages, each guest at the banquet was given three glasses: one for orange juice, one for wine and one for a Chinese drink with over 50% alcohol known as Maotai.   Worried that this intoxicating spirit would take its toll on a president who needed to be flawless throughout the entire evening, Deputy Assistant to the President for National Security Affairs Alexander Haig cabled the White House in January to warn them of this drink.  In the book Nixon in China: The Week that Changed the World, historian Margaret MacMillan writes that Haig stressed “UNDER NO REPEAT NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THE PRESIDENT ACTUALLY DRINK FORM HIS GLASS IN RESPONSE TO BANQUET TOASTS.”  Nixon, seeking a middle ground did drink form his glass but in very small sips.

Next came the food that each guest would enjoy with his/her own personally inscribed chopsticks.  On the menu were dumplings, fried rice, three colored eggs, shark fins, and duck slices garnished with pineapples, among others.  Eating next to Chou En-lai, Nixon fared much better with chopsticks than CBS anchorman Walter Kronkite who accidentally shot an olive at a neighboring table.  Careful not to lay it on too thick, the president was warned  “not to say a particular dish is ‘good’ or ‘interesting’ when in fact you do not like it, as your hosts, in an effort to please, may serve you extra portions to your embarrassment.”

Covered for four hours straight without commentary by the big three U.S. networks, the entire banquet proved to be the ultimate combination of dining and diplomacy.  Nixon, the once ardent anti-Communist ironically quoted Chairman Mao by asking both countries to “Seize the Day.  Seize the hour.”  And as the two sides clinked their glasses in friendship, the Chinese Red Army band performed a rendition of both “America the Beautiful” and the U.S. National Anthem to an audience of millions watching live on TV.  This in addition to a close-up shot of the president using chopsticks had undoubtedly convinced a majority of Americans that the visit was a rousing success. Despite being just the first night of a seven-day trip, the symbolic image of two former adversaries breaking bread proved to be more powerful than any treaty, agreement, or communiqué signed later on.

Writing in his diary the next day, H.R. Haldeman, the president’s trusted chief-of-staff was more than pleased with how the media presented the entire evening.  “The network coverage … of the banquet period was apparently very impressive and they got all the facts the P (President Nixon) wanted, such as his use of chopsticks, his toasts, Chou’s toast, the P’s glass-clinking,” wrote Haldeman.  According to Nixon biographer Conrad Black, his trip had registered the highest U.S. public recognition of any event in the history of the Gallup poll.  And in the days and months after Nixon’s visit, Chinese restaurants in the U.S. were mobbed by foodies seeking out “authentic” Chinese cuisine like the Peking duck they saw the president eating on TV, writes Andrew Coe, author of Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States.

Call it “chopstick diplomacy,” “Maotai statecraft” or “dining for Détente,” but in the end, Richard Nixon had proved that the power of food could win over the public at large as he tore down the Bamboo Curtain.

Favorite food from this posting?

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Ask Sid: Recommend any BC wines?

Recommend any BC wine

Question: I have tried some of those sweet Ice Wines from Canada but now am hearing encouraging things from wine friends about the much improved unique dry table wines from the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. Any helpful information or recommendations for me?

Answer: Yes there is an explosion of new wineries with the last count being 232 grape wine wineries licensed in British Columbia and rapidly growing. Presently the most grown grape varieties are merlot for red and pinot gris for white. However, syrah, pinot noir, cab franc, gamay, and red blends all show great potential as do old vine riesling (planted 1978), chenin blanc (1968), sparkling, and Rhone grape blends for whites. The best is still yet to come. Follow all developments at www.winebc.com

For recommendations here are the top 12 BC wines recently chosen by the 2014 Lieutenant Governor’s Awards For Excellence judges (myself included) out of 436 wines submitted from 119 wineries:

8TH GENERATION RIESLING 2012

These 27 year old vines in their Estate Okanagan Falls Vineyard show a complex clearly defined riesling variety with just the right balance between the lively acidity and the attractive residual sweetness. Delicious!

BONAMICI MERLOT CABERNET FRANC 2012

Very charred toasty French oak barrels used for this distinctive wine from a good vintage makes a ripe softer big fruit easy to enjoy statement

FORT BERENS RIESLING 2012

Dutch owners Rolf & Heleen have a “hankering” for their unique Lillooet peachy lime terroir which delivers stylish petrol aromas and attractive layers of flavour

HESTER CREEK MERLOT BLOCK 2 RESERVE 2011

Choice grapes from Golden Mile show juicy rich plums open aromas and palate with lovely drinking accessibilty now but no rush to drink up as will age well.

HOWLING BLUFF SAUVIGNON BLANC/SEMILLON 2013

Outstanding white Bordeaux blend by my old friend winemaker Luke Smith specializing in pinot noir yet here displaying so well fresh tomato plants aromas of sauvigonon blanc with lanolin weight of semillon.

KRAZE LEGZ CHARDONNAY SKAHA VINEYARD 2013

Stylish round apple and cinnamon notes are fresh and subtle expressing the pure expression of the chardonnay grape itself without any oak interference.

LAUGHING STOCK PORTFOLIO 2011

David & Cynthia Enns celebrate a 10th vintage from a cooler but successful year for their red Bordeaux blend of the 5 grapes in French oak for 19 months showing deep concentrated smooth structured fruit.

OKANAGAN CRUSH PAD HAYWIRE PINOT NOIR CANYONVIEW 2011

Pure lighter cherry fruit shows elegance from clever seasoning by the passionate winemaking team using 3 year old French oak barrels and custom made egg shaped concrete tanks.

PENTAGE SYRAH RESERVE 2010

Paul & Julie’s special lot of ripe spicy peppery syrah jumps from the glass with these inviting aromas and entices the palate with soft smooth flavours of this successful Okanagan variety.

QUAILS’ GATE CHARDONNAY STEWART FAMILY RESERVE 2012

A leading winery in the Okanagan celebrating 25 years by the Stewart family with some emphasis on pinot noir but they always produce truly outstanding chardonnay too. Full rich oaky expression but still fresh and inviting matching well with so many full flavoured food dishes.

RUBY BLUES VIOGNIER 2013

Prudence & Beat yet again show their skills in producing this fragrant lively subtle apricot notes wine with excellent balance all at an attractive lower alcohol level.

WAYNE GRETZKY OKANAGAN THE GREAT RED 2011

Rather charming juicy easy fruit/oak balance using a unique blend of syrah, malbec, and petit verdot with a mix of French and American wood by talented winemaker Stephanie so well trained by Howard Soon.

Ask Sid Cross about wine and food

Have you tried wine from British Columbia?

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What Wines Do You Drink During Summer? How about Rose?

What wines do you drink during the summer?
By Samantha from Scotland UK (Rose wine) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Just back from judging the Similkameen BBQ King/Queen Competition prepared by some talented British Columbia chefs.  All were required to use the same ingredients starting with a 65 pound hog and various local fresh organic products including carrots, zucchini, peppers, sorrel, cherries… The weather for this popular event drawing 500 people on the lawn of the historic Old Grist Mill was blazing hot at 40C (or 104F). Everyone I spoke with there seemed to prefer the lighter wines served at a cooler temperature but especially a big hit was Rose. This got me thinking whether we consciously prefer different wines depending on the weather and the season of the year.

I still can remember when Rose carried a plonk connotation because of so many inferior wines that carried that label such as some overly sweet white zinfandels. No more. It has gone upstream with some super drier “Old World” initiated styles and delicious off dry innovative “New World” ones too. Used to think the better ones had to use the variety of pinot noir or some of those grapes from Provence in the south of France to obtain elegance. However, now with modern methods it seems that any grape (including cabernet sauvignon) or any region (including Uruguay) can work successfully. Good examples that are out there include from Australia, Canada, Chile, France, Germany, Italy “rosato”, Spain “rosado”, and USA. The key is freshness and balance served with a refreshing light chill!  It doesn’t hurt either that Rose wines are a versatile choice with food such as barbecue and are usually very affordable.

I usually drink similar wines all year round. However I admit that my personal summer preference is Riesling when I do consume more of it. What is your summer wine?

Favorite summer wine?

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Ask Sid: Drinking responsibly at an event where wine is being served

Drinking responsibly at an event where wine is being served
By Sarah Stierch (Own work) [CC BY 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: When going to an event where there will be a lot of wine, and having to drive home afterwards, I like to have something in my stomach to slow down the effects of alcohol entering my bloodstream.  I have been using about a cup of milk and some crackers coated with peanut butter at least one hour before the event, but no more than one an a half hours prior.  I am hoping the milk will coat my stomach and intestine.   Same with the food.  It works OK, and is much better than nothing.  I am wondering if you or your readers have any suggestions on what they do.  Any scientific findings on what slows down the effects of alcohol?  Once at the event, I drink about as much water as wine.

Answer: Quite a few issues raised here by this question. First it is definitely not wise or recommended to drive home after an event serving a lot of wine regardless of whether you have or have not coated your stomach. There is  support for taking some complex carbs (say sweet potato or brown rice) and good fats just before as those items take a while to digest thereby slowing the absorption of the alcohol. That is why your trick of milk, crackers and peanut butter works OK for you. Grainy bread and cheese is a natural. Try potato chips and banana. Small dishes of whole wheat pasta, beans or lentils with a big dash of quality olive oil will work well. I don’t prepare or coat my stomach before-hand. I prefer to always try and match food with my wine from the starting aperitif – with some hors d’oeuvre, toasted nuts: almonds, walnuts, pecans, peanuts etc., gougere and the like – continuing this strategy right through the meal or event. Study and sip your wine slowly at first – don’t knock back too quickly two or more glasses without food right at the start. Good idea to not mix too many different types of drinks – stick with table wines. Note that carbonated drinks including sparkling bubbles accelerate the alcohol absorption. I drink lots of water and green tea all day long to keep me well hydrated. If you wait until the wine event to start drinking water you may find yourself bloated from consuming too much total liquid in a fairly short period of time.

Ask Sid Cross about wine and food

Burgundy crop reductions continue – Time to buy recommendation!

Burgundy crop reductions continue
By Megan Mallen (Flickr: Burgundy, France) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

In our May 27 Blog featuring Burgundy we informed you that there were encouraging hopes for a quality harvest of much larger volume for the 2014 vintage. Unfortunately these hopes were quickly dashed for many producers by the devastating widespread hail storm that happened on June 28. You can read some extensive details on this by Antonio Galloni in his update posted at www.vinousmedia.com/articles/an-update-from-burgundy-jul-2014.  These hail storms seem to have become almost a pattern particularly the last 3 years but they raise real economic issues for the viability to continue farming for many growers. Frost can also be another concern on quantity – look at the affect on reduced Grand Cru Chablis with their 2012 Spring frosts. Shorter Burgundy crops were predicted already for 2010-2013 inclusive. It is alarming now to learn about a 5th consecutive year of less wine production projected for 2014. Availability and especially price increases are a real ongoing concern for the Burgundy consumer. I strongly recommend you buy some now!

What to buy? 2012 Chablis is a smart choice. They have full chardonnay fruit but with classic vibrant acidity. Older oak may turn out to have been a wise choice to use for this particular vintage. As an example seek out top value Christian Moreau Grand Cru Les Clos & 1er Cru Vaillon old vines in their Cuvee Guy Moreau. Meursault volumes continue to fall and prices are already increasing. Pick up some Jadot Genevrieres or Bouchard Pere Perrieres – both now using Diam cork closures -from any vintage but especially the 2010 I admire. Any 2009 or 2010 red Burgundy you see may still be at old pricing and worth buying. Look for underrated vineyards like La Dominode the best vineyard in Savigny-Les-Beaune from Pavelot that give outstanding value for the quality you receive in the bottle. Their 2009 is already so delicious and 2010 the only SLB on the wine list at Ma Cuisine in Beaune on my last visit in May at 53 Euros was firm balanced pure minerals structured to age. On a stricter wine budget the 2012 red Cote Chalonnaise are looking so encouraging – especially some of the Mercurey vineyards from Faiveley. Search out some of your own treasures to enjoy sometime for a blue moon!

Are you concerned about the Burgundy region?

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