The #Brosé Effect

the #Brosé effect

By Joseph Temple

Once considered to be a wine exclusively for women, rosé is currently enjoying a massive resurgence across America, which is now the second largest market after France for this lovely pink drink. According to Nielsen research, sales of rosé are growing ten times faster than overall table wine sales.  Imports from Provence, considered the gold standard for rosé, have shot up from less than half a million liters in 2006 to nearly five million in 2014. And here’s the thing: it’s men that are largely responsible for this phenomenal growth, representing approximately 45% of all rosé sales in the United States!

Call it the #Brosé effect.

Unlike the White Zinfandel and Mateus Rosé brands that were enormously popular—and utterly despised by many wine aficionados during the 1970s, this new era for rosé is clearly breaking free from its sordid past. With vintners using different grape varieties that include everything from Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon to Pinot Noir and Touriga Nacional, more complex flavors with greater depth are now being offered to consumers. The demand has become so big, especially in places like New York City and Miami, that retailers are now signing up pre-sale orders, something inconceivable only a decade ago for this blushing wine.

But perhaps the biggest reason for this trend is social media.  It has played a huge part in removing the stigma that is often associated with men drinking rosé. On Twitter, #Brosé has become a popular hashtag for anyone wanting to illustrate the popular online slogan, “real men aren’t afraid to drink pink!” Add to the mix some clever internet meme’s and humorous YouTube videos and what you have is a blush wine whose popularity can be attributed to the power of new media.

“There used to be this perception that rose was a girly drink, but that’s just not true,” according to one Manhattan hotel director interviewed in Details.

“I like to say that real men drink pink.”

Sources:

Malina, Joshua. (2015, May 21). 7 Maps & Charts That Explain The Incredible Rise Of Rosé In America. VinePair. Retrieved from http://www.vinepair.com.
Teague, Lettie. (2014, June 20). Summer’s Rosés: Which Pink to Drink? The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved from http://www.wsj.com.
Wells, Jane. (2015, June 19). Rosé wine becomes popular…with men. CNBC. Retrieved from http://www.cnbc.com.
Wyma, Chloe. (2015, June 12). Make Way for Brosé: Why More Men Are Drinking Pink. Details. Retrieved from http://details.com.


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Ask Sid: Hock Wine?

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What is a hock wine?

Question: What is a Hock Wine?

Answer: A German wine that is coming from the Rhine.


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Château Grand Puy Lacoste

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste

One Bordeaux property I have collected consistently over many vintages is Château Grand Puy Lacoste (GPL). It is a Fifth Growth Pauillac that has been underrated for decades and still doesn’t get the accolades of identical classified neighbours Pontet Canet, Lynch Bages, Clerc Milon, D’Armailhac, Haut-Batailley, Haut-Bages Liberal, and others. One of the earliest great wines I ever tried was the concentrated 1961 GPL during a visit to Bordeaux in 1970. There I was fortunate to spend some time with the knowledgeable Rene Barriere of negociant-eleveurs A & R Barriere Freres. They discovered treasures Château L’Arrosee St. Emilion & Château L’Eglise-Clinet Pomerol shipping them to the Belgium market long before they came to America. Rene told me then that the best value of all the Bordeaux he presently had in his inventory was the 1966 GPL so naturally I bought 3 cases which landed in Vancouver at $5.60/bottle. Enjoyed many bottles of this “long distance runner”1966 over the last 45 years. Before the property was sold in 1978 to the Borie family (of Ducru-Beaucaillou fame) it was owned by the legendary Raymond Dupin. Remember fondly our appointment with him at the château set for 4pm one Friday when he landed his helicopter at GPL right on time returning from Paris where he just had his gourmet lunch. So typical of him and his well known lifestyle. Know the vintages of this château quite well so I was excited to attend last week a vertical ranging over 40 years from that nostalgic 1966 up to 2006.

The exquisite 1966 showed complex tobacco and cigar box with style and delicacy. What a textbook example of Pauillac!

The 1970 is a wine I bought initially on release but acquired much more of it when discounted because Robert Parker marked it only at 74 points. I mentioned this to RMP at an event and in subsequent editions of his books he raised his score to 90 -92 but said it was bottle variable. Here it was lovely but I have enjoyed better bottles as this one though it still showed some freshness was drying out with age & too much acidity left. Needed food.

2006 has fruit but harsher young tannins and needs some more time.

2005 powerful seductive riper tannins with impressive balance. Sort of like a 1959 that you can drink younger but will improve over a very long time.

2000 very good but still hard & backward at 15 years.

1999 Open with a lovely mature bouquet has a lighter softer easy entry on an attractive plateau now. A very underrated vintage for this property.

1995 Good rich depth, elegant and quite delicious – the surprise of the tasting.

1990 Still shades of purple colour at 25 years old but presently a bit briary herbaceous and earthy in style.

1982 The star of this tasting yet again. The 1982 always seems to show so spectacular for me and I rate it as one of the very best GPL ever produced. Wonderful cedar and fruit intensity still on an amazing plateau of enjoyment. So pleased I bought cases of it in 1985 at $110/case.

This property GPL has brought me so much joy over the years at a brilliant quality for price value. I continue to highly recommend this property .


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10 food and wine trends from the 1970s

10 food and wine trends from the 70s

By Joseph Temple

Over this past summer, CNN aired The Seventies, an eight-part documentary series that dissected some of the most important events from this tumultuous decade.  Unfortunately, with Watergate, disco, the ERA, stagflation and a host of other topics placed under the microscope, the subject of food and wine was completely overlooked. Like, didn’t people eat anything before watching All in the Family and MASH? Did the staggering crime rates keep everyone from going out to a restaurant and having a glass of wine with dinner? Tom Hanks, one of the series’ executive producers really missed the boat by not highlighting some of the major culinary trends of this era. So as an addendum, here’s the skinny on ten food and wine crazes that helped to shape the “Me Decade.”

And if you have any fond memories from this era, please share them in the comments section below.

Catch you on the flip side!


Fondu 1970s party
1. Fondue

If you were a foodie in the 70s, then you’ll definitely remember the time you invited all your friends and family over for a far out fondue party! Before it became a staple on the garage sale circuit, fondue makers experienced an explosion in popularity and quickly became the must-have gift for millions of brides-to-be. Whether it was cheese or chocolate, cookbook author Rhonda Lauret Parkinson explains its appeal then and now: “There is something infinitely satisfying about gathering together around a communal dish to enjoy a meal. Not to mention the fact that everyone can cook the food according to his or her own preference.”

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Mateus Rose during the 1970s
2. Mateus Rosé

One of Portugal’s most popular exports, Mateus Rosé, with it’s instantly recognizable squat bottle design became the preferred wine for millions of Americans throughout the 70s. Along with lava lamps and shag rugs, a house party wasn’t complete until someone opened a bottle of this sweet tasting libation. Describing the brilliant marketing campaign conducted by Fernando van Zeller Guedes, wine writers Michael Bywater and Kathleen Burk explain, “He [Guedes] was, in a sense, trying to scoop up the beer drinkers from one side and the soda drinkers from the other. And he succeeded. Mateus Rosé achieved an almost unheard-of brand recognition, and this before the days of sophisticated demographics, computerized market research, or any of the other tricks of twenty-first century branding.”

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Quiche 1970s
3. Quiche

In 1963, culinary goddess Julia Child showed viewers how to make a standard Quiche Lorraine on an episode of her iconic show The French Chef. Less than a decade later, variations of the dish would flourish in kitchens across America. Symbolizing the freewheeling spirit of the 70s, nothing was off limits when it came to quiche. “Standard Quiche Lorraine became boring, as restaurants and cooks experimented with every type of quiche, from leek and anchovy to moussaka quiche with eggplant, tomatoes, onion, and lamb,” wrote Sherri Liberman.

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1970s White Zinfandel
4. White Zinfandel

Today, many oenophiles scoff at the idea of drinking White Zinfandel. But back in the 70s, there was no denying its phenomenal success, especially the blend accidentally created by Bob Trinchero at the Sutter Home Winery in St. Helena. According to the winemaker, in 1975, nearly “1,000 gallons of red Zinfandel refused to ferment to dryness, “sticking” with a substantial amount of sugar left in it … Two weeks later, I tasted that wine and it was sweet, had a pink color … We bottled it, and the rest is history.” And by 1987, the first year that varietal wines outsold jug products in America, white Zinfandel had the largest market share with 28 percent and over 2.5 million cases sold.

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1970s Crockpots and Microwaves
5. Crock-pots & Microwaves

As more women entered the labor force in the 1970s, just to keep up with the increased cost of living, it was estimated that a wife with kids worked approximately fifteen more hours per week than her husband. To ease this enormous burden, new labor-saving appliances were beginning to phase out the traditional home-cooked meals across suburbia. One of these inventions, known as the crock-pot allowed families to enjoy a tender and tasty meal from something they quickly put together before heading out in the morning. And in addition to this slow cooker, the microwave became mainstream, giving people the option of nuking their leftovers and TV dinners in mere seconds. Overworked and stressed out from all the decade’s troubles, convenience now reigned supreme.

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Sunday Brunch in the 1970s
6. Sunday Brunch

“You do not eat brunch. You do brunch,” wrote Ira Krasnow in the Chicago Tribune. A cherished ritual symbolizing how much Americans valued their free time, “doing” brunch on a late Sunday morning was one of the most rewarding activities to engage in after a chaotic work week. Whether it was orange juice or a Bloody Mary you drank with your Eggs Benedict, the casual and stress-free atmosphere became almost therapeutic for millions of families struggling with the uncertainty synonymous with the 70s. Explaining how the “anything-goes” meal became a metaphor, Krasnow writes, “With the loosening of Sunday’s rigid schedule of church and dinner, a relaxed and informal brunch is a reflection of this freedom … And maybe because anything goes, people adore it.”

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7. Salad Bars

With a greater demand for convenience, it was no surprise that fast-food chains expanded rapidly during the 1970s. But as they grew in size, many health advocates worried about the kinds of food being served at these restaurants, which usually contained high amounts of cholesterol. So to show the public that they too were concerned about growing waistlines, a new concept was unveiled—the salad bar! Originally invented in 1971 at R.J. Grunt’s in Chicago, these bars, usually featuring dark wood paneling and brass fixtures, offered what appeared to be a nutritious alternative to greasy hamburgers and french fries. Unfortunately, with toppings that included artificial bacon bits and ranch salad dressing, the health benefits could be few and far between.

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Pasta primavera 1970s
8. Pasta Primavera

Making its debut at the uber-trendy Le Cirque restaurant in New York City, pasta primavera, consisting of noodles mixed with an assortment of vegetables quickly became one of the decades most ordered meals. Described by one food critic as a “death match between French and Italian cuisine,” what was originally intended as a seasonal dish (Primavera means springtime) had a revolutionary effect on the way Americans viewed Italian food. David Kamp in his book The United States of Arugula states, “The very fact that a pasta dish could get attention at a French restaurant, and that Americans were willing to veer away from their old red-sauce preconceptions of spaghetti, augured well for Italian cooking in the United States.”

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Sauces and dressings in the 1970s
9. Sauces & Dressings

Whether it was steak, fish or salad on the dinner table, you could always count on one thing: a steady stream of sauces and dressings for you to smother on top of your food. With so many health-conscious Americans these days, it’s easy to forget just how fashionable it once was to drench your salad with Hidden Valley Original Ranch dressing before pouring Hollandaise on your Eggs Benedict. Of course, with all these rich and heavy foods that certainly clogged up plenty of arteries by the end of the decade, it was only logical that a counter-movement, emphasizing “low-fat” and nutritious alternatives would gain steam with consumers as the 1980s began.

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Judgment of Paris 1976
10. Judgment of Paris

To celebrate America’s Bicentennial, a blind tasting was organized in the city of Paris by British wine merchant Steven Spurrier. With the best wines from France and California squaring off, it was assumed that the latter, known for producing mostly “cooked” bottles that were extremely high in alcohol, would easily go down in defeat. But just as Rocky Balboa that year shocked the world in his fight against Apollo Creed, America would score a huge upset by beating the French in a tasting that became a watershed event, known as the Judgment of Paris. From that moment on, California became a major player in wine circles around the world.

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Sources:

Bywater, Michael & Burk, Kathleen. Is This Bottle Corked?: The Secret Life of Wine. New York: Harmony Books, 2008.
Hesser, Amanda. The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century. New York: W.W. Norton & Company, Inc., 2010.
Kamp, David. The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation. New York: Broadway Books, 2006.
Liberman, Sherri. American Food by the Decades. Santa Barbara: Greenwood Publishing, 2011.
Murphy, Linda. (2003, July 3). White Zinfandel, now 30, once ruled the U.S. wine world / The wine snobs won’t touch it, but that’s their loss. San Francisco Gate. Retrieved from http://sfgate.com.
Parkinson, Rhonda Lauret. The Everything Fondue Cookbook: 300 Creative Ideas for Any Occasion. Avon: F&W Publications, 2004.
Patterson, James T. Restless Giant: The United States from Watergate to Bush v. Gore. New York: Oxford University Press Inc., 2005.
Ternikar, Fahra. Brunch: A History. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield, 2014.


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Ask Sid: Champagne Sweetness?

Ask your question here The International Wine & Food Society

Ask Sid: Champagne sweet or dry terms

Question: How can I tell the sweetness level from reading the label on a bottle of wine – especially Champagne?

Answer: Yes knowing the sweetness levels of wines is becoming an increasing problem without a compulsory ingredient labeling. Many labelled dry red table wines can actually be quite sweet. Riesling is a good example where the sugar level can be quite high but it seems less sweet because of the high levels of balanced acidity. Champagne is a bit easier because they usually help describe the level of sweetness by using code words:

Very Dry: Look for Brut or Natur

Dry: Usually say Extra Dry, Extra Sec, or Tres Sec

Medium Dry: Dry or Sec

Medium Sweet: Demi-Sec

Sweet: Doux, Demi-Doux, or Rich


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