Ask Sid: What is the Best Order For Vertical Wine Tastings?

Ask your question here The International Wine & Food Society

Ask Sid: What is the Best Order For Vertical Wine Tastings?
By Bradley Cooper [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I am organizing a vertical tasting of the same red wine from different vintages and receiving conflicting opinions on the best order for service – youngest to oldest or vice versa?

Answer: Interesting issue. Historically the best order was usually youngest to oldest to see how the younger wine develops and changes with age becoming less tannic but more elegant and complex. More recently verticals often start with the oldest wines which are usually more fragile needing less airing time, lighter bodied and easier to assess while finishing up with the youngest bigger and more tannic years. Remember that tannins tend to build up on your palate so easier to taste the very tannic wines towards the end. Would be helpful to know the specific wine and the vintages you plan to taste which would influence my advice. At some extensive verticals of many flights we sometimes group the weaker vintages from different decades to taste early on and leave the very best vintages (young and old) till the last flight. Other factors include the number of wines to be tasted, the property being tasted, and how long the winery has been producing that wine. Lots of newer wineries are still finding their best style with maturing vines as well as vineyard and cellar experimentation so each year they are improved making better wine than the one before. Therefore their best wines are often their youngest wines to be served last. There is no definitive answer and you should decide for yourself the order considering these issues. It will be educational in either case.


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Live Geoduck Clam

Geoduck
Image courtesy: www.geoduck.org

I have fond memories as a boy digging madly in the beach sands with the outgoing tide at Boundary Bay on the Canada/USA border to catch those elusive deep burrowing geoducks. What fun to catch such cherished buried treasures. Boy did they ever make the very best most flavourful clam chowder I have ever enjoyed! Today they are less commonly seen in the North American market and are recognized as a real delicacy. They have become so popular now in the Chinese community and most of the product is shipped live to Hong Kong and China as the “Elephant Trunk Clam”. They are also increasingly used in Japan. They have become quite expensive but a small amount delivers a very special sea-fresh flavour from the sweet textured meaty neck (or siphon) making excellent raw sushi/sashimi or cook them slightly by stir fry/sauteed. Remember that the meat can toughen quickly if you overcook them.

The average size weighs in around one kilogram but they can live a very long time (over 150 years) with their growth rings measured on the oval shell (average length around 7-8 inches) like on a tree trunk. The industry on the Pacific Coast is well regulated and sustainable since the 1981 formation of Underwater Harvesters Association (UHA) representing and managing some 55 British Columbia commercial geoduck and horse clam licence holders. Since 1994 the UHA has started enhancing geoduck populations to ensure continuing long term success. They are harvested by divers with high pressure water jet hoses (“stinger”) to loosen the substrate with minimal ocean floor environment disturbance. Annual allowable catch is very conservatively managed to maintain existing stocks.

You probably already have tried clams, oysters and other bivalves but have you treated yourself to geoduck? Seek it out.

More details, suppliers and recipes at www.geoduck.org.


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Where in the world is one of the coolest wine cellars?

Bahamas Graycliff wine cellar

By Joseph Temple

Imagine a truly daunting wine cellar containing more than 250,000 bottles from approximately 400 vintners in fifteen different countries. With a list that’s over eighty pages long, this collection has everything from the more recent vintages to some nineteenth century rarities like an 1865 Château Lafite and an 1875 Château d’Yquem—two bottles that command five and even six figures from collectors. Being so extensive, one might think that this cellar is located in some grand European castle, owned by a rich oligarch with a penchant for only the finest wines.

If that was your guess, then you’ll be surprised to know that this incredible collection is actually located just three hundred kilometers southeast of Miami, Florida.

Famous for its sunny beaches, high-stakes gambling and a mega-resort called Atlantis, at first glance, the Commonwealth of the Bahamas appears to be an unusual spot for such a massive selection. Possessing a warm and winterless climate that attracts scores of tourists year-round, this ex-British colony is known more for serving up frozen margaritas and daiquiris as opposed to first growth Bordeaux. However, when you examine the country’s unique history, it begins to make sense that one of the world’s largest wine collections would be located on this island paradise.

Dating back more than three hundred years, the Bahamas became notorious for attracting swashbuckling pirates such as the infamous Blackbeard. And although the British Empire successfully clamped down on piracy by the early 1700s, the remnants of this nefarious past can still be seen, especially on the island of New Providence where a Georgian-style mansion stands on top of a hill so its pirate owner could be on the look out for all incoming ships. Known as Graycliff, it was originally built by Captain John Graysmith, a vicious individual who plundered Spanish galleons throughout the region (and probably took home quite a few bottles of wine as a result). Changing hands several times, Graycliff’s cellar was even used briefly as a brig by the Continental Navy when they occupied Nassau during the American Revolutionary War. But it was Prohibition that made the Bahamas a prime destination for dry Americans eager to get their hands on some alcohol.

Graycliff wine cellar Bahamas Nassau
Images courtesy: www.graycliff.com

According to historian Daniel Okrent, this Caribbean destination became a colossal boomtown in the 1920s with approximately ten million quarts of liquor passing through Nassau every single year. “According to a dispatch in the Times of London in March 1920,” writes Okrent, “the liquor business had already ‘transformed the Bahama Government’s financial condition as if by magic from a deficit to a comparatively huge surplus.’” Much like the French St. Pierre and Miquelon islands, colonial outposts situated in the Western Hemisphere essentially became one giant warehouse, storing all the wine and spirits from Europe that Americans were not allowed to consume until the Volstead Act was repealed in 1933. Impressive collections like the one at Graycliff—which also served as a hotel catering to this thirsty clientele—would be built and sustained as the economy morphed from rum running to tourism.

Becoming a private residence in 1937, the ownership of this mansion would change hands several times. Today, Graycliff is both a hotel and restaurant where its wine cellar is open to the public. In fact, the cellar can be booked for private tastings and dinner for up to eighteen people. So if you’re ever in the Bahamas and are looking to venture off of Paradise Island, check out this collection, which is steeped in three centuries of rich history.

Sources:

Gaiter, Dorothy J. & Brecher, John. Wine for Every Day and Every Occassion: Living Well With Wine. Grand Rapids: Zondervan, 2009.
Lonely Planet. Great Escapes: Experience the World at Your Leisure. Melbourne: Lonely Planet, 2015.
Macomber, Robert N. Honor Bound: A Novel of Cmdr. Peter Wake. Sarasota: Pineapple Press Inc., 2011.
Okrent, Daniel. Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition. New York: Scribner, 2011.
Showker, Kay. Northern and Northeastern Regions. Guilford: Globe Pequot, 1999.
Showker, Kay. Resorts of the Caribbean. Guilford: Globe Pequot, 2008.


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Ask Sid: Pairing wine with ravioli pasta?

Ask your question here The International Wine & Food Society

Pairing wine with ravioli pasta?

Question: What’s the best wine to serve with pasta filled with a potato and old yellow cheese?

Answer: Should be a delicious dish with almost any wine you choose! You describe a ravioli type pasta but don’t mention using any sauce on top and if there is a spicy tomato or rich cream sauce this would make a difference in more specific wine recommendations. However potato and cheese pasta should be easy for pairing (unless your cheese is a rather strong Cheddar or Mimolette) and will be excellent with most of your wine choices. Various pasta is something I enjoy regularly often a Primavera with vegetables including San Marzano roasted plum tomatoes, grilled eggplant and Parmigiano Reggiano shards with lots of quality fresh extra virgin olive oil. I find almost any wine works with it. Naturally an Italian choice will be appropriate. At the great River Café in Hammersmith outside London in England they still limit their wine list to only Italian with versatile choices from the expanding 20 main regions. Common choices for your dish would include a wide choice from pinot grigio, a fuller chardonnay or white Burgundy, pinot noir or red Burgundy, and the savoury sangiovese variety perhaps a Chianti Classico or the newer Gran Selezione. However there also are many New World reasonably priced wines that also would work well to enhance this pasta. Suggest you experiment with various wine types and find the flavour match you enjoy the best together.


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Tormaresca in Puglia Italy

Tormaresca in Puglia Italy
Photo courtesy: www.tormaresca.it

Interesting update with the personable Vito Palumbo Brand Ambassador for Tormaresca (www.tormaresca.it) in Puglia (“at the heel of Italy`s boot”) at the 38th Vancouver International Wine Festival end of February 2016. Always a big fan of their fragrant balanced Extra Virgin Olive Oil made from Cellina & Coratina olives. Their Puglia wines have traditional Greek origins with native (autochtonous) varieties like Primitivo & Negroamaro but with modern viticulture techniques and non-native varieties developed by the Antinori family since 1998 are showing fresh expression unique for the region. The Estate has two main wine growing areas:

1. Castel del Monte DOC: Bocca Di Lupo Estate of 100 hectares under vine in the Murgia region near Minervino Murge -Bari at 250 metres elevation on calcareous soils suitable for Aglianico (Bocca Di Lupo lovely red spicy fruits), Chardonnay (Pietrabianca with a touch of Fiano), Cabernet Sauvignon, Fiano, and Moscato Di Trano (Kaloro honey sweetness from grapes dried 21 days and stainless).

2. Salento DOC: Masseria Maime Estate of 250 hectares under vine (plus 85 in olive trees) near San Pietro Vernotico (Brindisi) up to 900 metres with principal grape varieties Negroamaro (Calafuria Rose and also a red Morgicchio of dark fruits with 14 months in barrique), Chardonnay, Fiano (Roycello has lots of freshness and 3 months lees contact but different from the minerally Fiano from Campania on volcanic soils), Cabernet Sauvignon, and Primitivo (Torcicoda label has lower yields showing riper spicy prunes fruit with 12 months in barrique where malolactic takes place).

Also look for 2 special wines using grapes from both regions in a blended Chardonnay Puglia with barrel fermentation and then transferred to stainless before bottling showing citrus, apples and pear; and Neprica using Negroamaro, Primativo, and Cabernet Sauvignon is round with spicy dark fruits.
Tormaresca is a producer with some under the radar top quality Italian wines at reasonable prices. Check them out!

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