By PABLO GONZALEZ [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I am buying Malbec wines from Argentina quite often and would appreciate your brief thoughts on best current vintages.

Answer: Malbec is usually juicy and drinks well young. The last 3 vintages have not had the ideal quality consistency. 2016 was a difficult cooler year resulting in some of the grapes just not reaching enough phenolic ripeness. 2015 had rot issues so be careful because grape selection is a real key to finding the best wines. 2014 also had crop damage issues and the wines are drinking more forwardly. 2013 was good as were the previous vintages back to the hotter more consistent highly regarded 2009. However vintage can be a less important factor than choosing a high quality producer. Recommend buying Malbec wines from Catena, Achaval-Ferrer, the much improved Zuccardi, Pascal Toso, or any of the other top wineries to ensure you get the best examples of this variety.

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Pleased over the past week to have the opportunity to drink quite a few old Spanish wines in San Sebastian. Brought back such fond memories from several decades ago of marvelling at the dusty treasures including Marquis de Riscal (some of those memorable 1920s with less than 10 degrees alcohol), classy Marquis de Murrieta and Torres Black Label Mas de Plana from both 1970 and 1971 (cabernet sauvignon vines planted in 1966).

Recent experience finds quite a bit of bottle variation as expected on these old wines but some show a touch too much volatile acidity and oxidation with that signature American oak. It is all part of their interesting unique trademark.

Particularly good showing this week by the 1964 year with Bodegas Bilbainas Vina Pomal Reserva Especial (preferred the 1955), Cune Vina Real Reserva Especial (preferred the 1951) and Bodegas Unidas Siglo (their historical 1928 was the oldest star one evening) all performing very well. Some of the younger wines were fresher and showed more spicy fruit like 1970 Cune Imperial, 1968 Vina Real Gran Reserva, 1959 Bodegas Unidas Fuenmayor Gran Reserva and 1955 Bodegas Santiago Yago Condal Reserva Especial. One of the cleanest and most elegant of all was 1952 Berberana Gran Reserva!

Vega Sicilia Unico is a favourite of mine which has some proven amazing aging ability. This week enjoyed trying the open complex nose of a surprisingly approachable 1991, the deep solemn wonderous depth of 1970 still needs more time even after 16 years in wood and some bottle age, the delightful drinking smooth textured charming 1962, and the 1960 in magnum (the first vintage that used this format) quite closed in and backward for 56 years of age!

The star one evening was certainly Maria Jose Lopez de Heredia and her outstanding wines. Even the old whites of Tondonia Gran Reserva 1973 & 1957 were of interest as was a 1926 Sauternes they had originally bottled and now opened with port tongs. However it was the reds that were truly remarkable showing an extra level of intense fruit with balanced acidity resulting in true old wine elegance. My congratulations!

Tondonia is a much bigger production at nearly 10 times that of the only 15 hectare 5000 bottles of Bosconia. The 1964s were from “a great but high yielding year and are still babies”. Interesting that Tondonia was served with Bacalao Pimento (codfish red peppers) and Bosconia with Lomo de Cordero (lamb loin). It was said that the 1954s would not improve “but they just keep on improving”. I bought 24 bottles of Tondonia in that wire mesh wrap during the 1980s and enjoyed drinking them all up over 20 years. This 25th bottle was the best showing for it yet! Surprisingly the Bosconia 1954 was lighter and more aged than Tondonia but so stylish too. The brightest stars might have been both 1947s. Exceptional year and such brilliant complexity coming through! The oldest served was 1934 Tondonia with big young colour and an intriguing nose the best part of it but the palate revealed the fruit was drying up showing a little too much acidity creeping in but still an historical treasure.

Encourage you to look for some of these special old Spanish gems.

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By Joseph Temple

Last week, power brokers and executives alike gathered at the Napa Valley Marriott for the 25th Wine Industry Financial Symposium. Titled “Game Changers For The Next Twenty-Five Years,” this state of the union covered a wide range of topics, from recent distributor consolidations to what impact the legalization of marijuana will have on the wine business.  Presented by Robert Smiley, Director of Wine Studies at UC Davis, the findings were the result of two surveys given to industry professionals asking a series of thought provoking questions that are of great interest to every oenophile.

In terms of the economy, the survey asked what wine companies are doing to prepare themselves for another possible recession.  Having learned valuable lessons from the economic meltdown eight years ago, many respondents replied with diversification. “We are hitting multiple price segments,” said one executive.  “If you go back to the previous recession of 2008, our premium luxury brands tanked.  Our value brands saw us through a little bit.”

To further cushion any blow, another area that vineyards are looking at in regards to cost cutting is labor.  Specifically, the labor that goes into pruning and canopy management is increasingly on the chopping block.  “It has been common in Australia for years.  Wineries are accepting it in the central valley, on the central coast.  We are now planting vineyards in Sonoma that are to be mechanically pruned,” said another response.

Switching from manmade financial disasters to the wrath of Mother Nature, it would be impossible to not discuss the drought conditions plaguing much of the Golden State.  While many vineyards are confident that they can ride out the storm through technology such as rainwater catchment and storage, others are not so sure.  Offering a prophetic vision, one industry insider said: “We feel long term the [San Joaquin] valley probably can’t support grapes because they will be crowded out by other crops and shortage of water … We’re looking to obtain bulk wine from Argentina, Chile and Australia.”

But perhaps the most interesting answers dealt with the growing impact of the millennial generation on wine sales.  Realizing that this group is very different from their baby boomer parents in terms of curiosity, many executives see exciting opportunities:  “I think the millennials are drinking new stuff.  They want to go out into the world of wine and not just Bordeaux, or Napa cab.  They want to go out and try new varietals.”

What caught some by surprise is the idea that this generation is now ready to spend more on high quality wines.  With less purchasing power than their parents at the same age, the conventional wisdom is that vintages need to be at an ideal price point (below $20) in order to appeal to millennials.  However, given the explosion of foodie culture, this perception may be changing: “The drinking of high quality wine could be considered to be an extension of the foodie movement, which seeks high quality and local food.  Naturally, good wine pairs with this food.”

Tackling numerous issues such as the growing market share of Hispanics in the U.S., the possible resurgence of neo-prohibitionism and the vast changes in distribution, this report offers oenophiles some fascinating insight into what the future might hold for the wine they love to drink.  “I see the future of the wine business is great.  It really is truly great,” one executive concluded.

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Question: I am having an argument about the correct answer for which grape is best suited for growing on granite soils to make wine.

Answer: Difficult question because I do not believe there is just one correct answer. Several grape varieties seem to thrive on granite. Cru Beaujolais made from Gamay are famous. Also the Hermitage hill in the Northern Rhone produces fantastic Syrah. But there are other granitic soils around the world that do well with a variety of grapes: Stellenbosch & Paarl in South Africa, parts of Australia & California, as well as Portugal (Dao) and Spain (Rias Baixas for Albarinos). I enjoy the Riesling grape grown on granite soil vineyards in Alsace from Brand & Schlossberg! Lots of correct answers.

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At a dinner last week 2 wine issues reinforced themselves strongly to me:

Bordeaux wines and especially those from St. Estephe can age well for a very long time.

Wines in Grand Format really can surprise and impress.

The emphasis at this dinner was on the commune of St Estephe. 1989 vintage of Chateau Lilian Ladouys, Chateau Meyney, and Chateau Calon Segur all showed relatively youthful. 1975 Calon Segur still had hard drier youthful tannins but the 1966 was really remarkable. Elegant balanced and drinking superbly now with the food courses at 50 years of age. Reminded me of past glories from Cos d’Estournel and especially Montrose going way back to the legendary 1870.

A real delight was trying a flight of 3 Chateau Meyney all from the lauded 2000 vintage but in 3 different sizes of single bottle 750 ml., magnum 1500 ml., and double magnum 3000 ml. All quite impressive but the double magnum was at a different level. Even the visiting guest speaker Bill Blatch ex-Vintex and a Bordeaux expert was ” both surprised and amazed at how the Grand Format bottle was so clearly much better than the other two smaller sizes” already at only 16 years of age. I have had less success with Burgundy than Bordeaux large bottle sizes because the neck slopes away rather quickly perhaps resulting in a less secure seal for the larger cork. They need a port-like cork.

Have you had success with large format bottles?

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