By BillBl [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: What is it (the difference) that allows Château Latour when kept under ideal cellar conditions to age longer and better than most other classified Bordeaux wines? I recently shared an 82 Latour that had been bought on futures and kept in a cold cellar until opened in March 2017–35 years old and in still perfect color, bouquet, and taste conditions.

Answer: Excellent observation. IMHO it has to be the specific terroir of Château Latour in Pauillac giving their wines that inherent plummy fruit with balance in almost all vintages. The unique vineyard used for their Grand Vin has remained unchanged for over 300 years and has an amazing diversity of soils on slopes that are so close to the Gironde. I have been fortunate to try several extensive verticals of Château Latour and am always amazed at how long aging it is and how consistent often even in so called off vintages. Tried in 1977 in London at 3 events over 3 weeks some 36 different vintages tasting 12/week and not a disappointing bottle among them. That experience converted me ever since into becoming a very fond supporter of this property. Also impressed that same year at the IWFS Festival in London assisting John Avery and his sommelier crew in opening several cases of the profound 1945 put away by founder Andre Simon for the special occasion. Big fan of your delicious perfect 1982 but also the legendary 1961 and the underrated 1970 among many others. Château Latour seldom disappoints. Since the mid-1990s under the capable management of Frederic Engerer the wines continue to be outstanding reaching possible new heights. Château Latour certainly deserves the high reputation it enjoys for quality and the ability to age as long as or longer than most classified Bordeaux wines. It is indeed a unique terroir!

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Your scribe is a long time admirer of the work by Professor Charles Spence of Oxford University an experimental psychologist specializing in sensory perception of food and wine. You may have heard about some of his more well known food studies including how the sound made by biting into a potato chip affects your perception as to how stale or crisp you think it is and eating strawberry mousse tastes sweeter out of a white container than a black one. The same arguments hold for beverages especially wine tasted with different music playing and other multisensory factors including colours in the room. Reference for more interesting discussion on these ideas at flavourjournal.biomedcentral.com

As a strong-minded sceptic I attended an actual demonstration of this theory last month in Germany conducted by Martin Messmer at Weingut Messmer (www.weingut-messmer.de). We tasted 6 wines all of the 2015 vintage blind in a circular tasting room at their winery in Burrweiler (Rheinland Pfalz) each with different coloured lighting in the room (from blue, blue/green, green, yellow, orange to red) and music (rock through to Mozart classic sonata). We rated the wines from 1 (best) to 6 (worst) based on these factors: schmeckt mir (how enjoyable), saure (personal choice for sour acidity), balance, nachhall (length of finish or aftertaste), and weinrebe (grape identity). In the final results two of the wines were the same with wine 1 & 5 being identical bottles of Riesling grown on schist soil (gives more minerals than granite) and wine 2 & 6 the very same Pinot Gris. Somewhat surprisingly we concluded that wine 5 showed much better structure than wine 1 and especially wine 6 was much cleaner brighter richer and enjoyable than wine 2. In fact it was hard to believe that wine 2 & 6 were in fact the same wine! Bottle variation? Martin Messmer says no but it is because of the influence of colour and music. As you move from the coolest colours to the warmest and louder assertive music to calmer your perception of the wine radically changes. Martin says “Music supports and helps us in the process. Our wines befall, as it were, an entertainment according to the resonance principle. Everything around us is vibration and this carries over. So the wine reflects itself to our thoughts and our passion also enriching and balancing vibration from the music once again. We are convinced that through this, our wines are even more salubrious, compatible, and digestible.” It worked for me and I am no longer such a sceptic. As a result of this experience I will be doing more experimenting with the influence of colour, music and other sensory influences while drinking a wine. Can this be true? Suggest you give it a try. Please let us know your opinion.

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By Joseph Temple

Just mention the word Cristal and most of us think of Hollywood celebrities and hip-hop moguls spending frivolously on expensive bottle service while partying late into the night. Beginning in the 1990s, this brand of Champagne has been referenced in so many rap songs that it is now synonymous with a culture defined mostly by escapism and braggadocio. And although there has been a falling out between its makers and the hip-hop community over recent years, it’s easy to see how this particular bottle of bubbly, distinctly wrapped in cellophane, came to symbolize the desire for luxury and wealth. After all, its original purpose was appealing to the vanity of a Russian tsar.

Searching for the origins of Cristal, one has to travel back in time to when Russia was one of the most highly sought-after markets for the great Champagne houses. As a result of the Napoleonic Wars where Russian soldiers briefly occupied the region, stories about the quality of its bubbles were sent back to the royal family, and very quickly, fizz became one of France’s most favored exports. Describing the breakthrough success of Veuve Clicquot during this time period, author Tilar J. Mazzeo writes, “Those same aristocratic officers who had come to love her wine during the occupation of Reims were now prepared to buy her champagne at any price. Soon, Czar Alexander declared that he would drink nothing else. Everywhere one heard the name of the Widow Clicquot and praises for her divine champagne.”

Enter the house of Louis Roderer and its most famous customer, Tsar Alexander II, a well known oenophile, and what you have are the makings of perhaps the most unique bottle of champagne in history. While Cristal today is known for its dry and clear taste, back in 1876, when the son of Louis Roderer created a prestige cuvée specifically for Russian royalty, it needed to appeal to the tsar’s well-known sweet tooth. Adding 20 percent of sweet liqueur and a collop of yellow Chartreuse to the pinot noir and chardonnay, Roderer succeeded in developing a wine that became the toast of the royal court. However, the drink was only one element—the other became its distinct packaging.

Not wanting to be seen drinking the same bubbly as the rest of the riff-raff, the tsar demanded an exclusive product that would stand out and one that only he could drink. The result became its iconic see-through design, which separated itself from the green bottles that everyone else drank from. The only difference from today is that back then, Cristal bottles were actually made from lead crystal.

Next came the flat bottom, designed specifically without a a punt. Having survived several assassination attempts, the tsar rightfully feared that his potential killer might sneak a bomb underneath a wine bottle, causing Roderer to make an adjustment that is still with us today. Of course, in the end, this design did not prevent the tsar’s murder in 1881. Even more devastating for Roderer was the Russian Revolution, which disposed his son Nicholas II from power. With this pivotal event, Cristal lost approximately 75% of its market overnight.

It would not be until 1945 that the general public finally got to taste this champagne, which is now wrapped in orange cellophane to protect against sunlight. But ever since its grand debut in 1876, Cristal has gone on to be one the most famous and recognized brands in the world, consumed by tsars, kings and celebrities alike.

Sources:

Clarke, Oz. The History of Wine in 100 Bottles: From Bacchus to Bordeaux and Beyond. London: Pavilion Books, 2015.
Hammond, Carolyn. 1000 Best Wine Secrets. Naperville: Sourcebooks, Inc., 2006.
MacLean, Natalie. Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. London: A&C Black, 2010.
MacNeil, Karen. The Wine Bible. New York: Workman Publishing, 2015.

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Question: I have been drinking more of the inexpensive sparkling Prosecco but finding most of them a bit too sweet for me. Your thoughts Sid?

Answer: Good point. Prosecco from Northern Italy is a sparkling white wine made mostly from the Glera grape but often has up to 15% of other grape varieties in a blend. Popular ones often do have a fair amount of residual sugar. They do have drier selections labelled as Brut (with 0-12 grams/litre sugar), but also Extra Dry (12-17) tried recently with a scallop dish plus pineapple & bacon, and called Dry (17-32) which is really sweet  often served with dessert. The hot breaking news is that for 2017 we will see the first release of some Extra Brut for those who prefer a much drier style of Prosecco. Watch out for it and try it!

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Your scribe enthusiastically endorses this newly published book Icon by respected wine historian John Schreiner. This topical 320 page tome perfectly captures the growing global respect for the special wines coming out of British Columbia. The growth of wineries has been really phenomenal now numbering more than 340 growing some 75 different grape varieties. This impressive work spotlights 98 of these top wineries plus some others “to put on your radar” who produce an “icon” (or flagship) wine being “the very best wine a producer can make”. He has suitably chosen his “wines with a track record of rising quality”, “not all… premium-priced”, and his “objective with this book is to encourage readers to collect verticals of favourite wines”.  As expected most of the wines selected are red with some of the top white wine producers including small-lot Terravista Vineyards noted by their absence. Hopefully subsequent editions will be expanded to include them and some of the other newer star wineries. Some wineries get detailed vintage reviews like 13 vintages (their first one 2001-2013) Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin and Mission Hill Family Estate Oculus 17 vintages (1997-2013). This book is dedicated “to Winemaker John Simes, who created Oculus in the 1997 vintage at Mission Hill Family Estates, continually refining it until it became the Okanagan’s premier icon wine.” Others like the exciting quality Checkmate Artisanal Winery has only their debut 2013 vintage. Classic quality pioneer Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars has a spotlight on all their “Reserves” including pinot noir, chardonnay and sparkling.

As a long time wine collector of wines from around the world and as one who is so appreciative of aged wines it is interesting to note these knowledgeable comments on the cellaring of BC wines: “A $20 wine can be expected to peak in seven years (in a good cellar). Most icon wines are constructed to age at least 10 years, improving and becoming more complex as they age. Indeed, the wines will likely cellar longer than that. As vines in this province have grown older and winemaking has become more skilled, the best wines are living 15 or more years.”  This is indeed encouraging news!

The organized notes by trained journalist John Schreiner (who started out as a reporter for the Regina Leader Post followed by a very successful long career as Western Canadian Editor for the Financial Post) are always so well researched and eruditely expressed. This adds enormously to the readability and easy reference of his latest admirable work all set out alphabetically by winery name.  Members of the IWFS will please note John’s valuable continuing contribution as a distinguished wine consultant on BC wines for our annual Vintage Card and author of the respected Monograph “Icewine”. Wonderful photography by Christopher K. Stenberg is a welcome addition bringing the region alive with a focus on picturesque vineyards and excellent grapes.  The publisher is TouchwoodEditions.com and the price is $39.95 US/Canada. You need this volume to be informed on this exciting unique wine region that has emerged and you will also enjoy reading it!

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