Enjoyed last week another Burgundy dinner using L’Abattoir (last referenced here on December 7, 2020). A repeat pick-up treat procedure of food followed by Zoom sessions in what may be among the last ones for our patient vibrant wine groups in Vancouver anxious to return to restaurants now finally opening up. This Menu (with excellent detailed instructions again) suited mainly white Burgundy. Leftover cellar bottles of Maconnais white (mainly from Les Heritiers du Comte LAFON) were distributed and resulted in different reactions. Those with the younger vintages (or stellar aging 2010) were happy while those of older ones (including 2013, 2012, and 2009) less so. Your scribe had 2009 Macon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette Macon-Villages AC (clay-limestone at 200 metres facing south aged in larger barrels & demi-muids) that was tasty being rich, full and rather soft but definitely was better fresher a few years ago. Got me thinking about the best age for drinking these white Macon wines. They don’t age like Chablis Les Clos or Meursault Perrieres. Even though the grapes are picked early the terroir (and climate change) support earlier drinking in their first 5-8 years IMHO.
This event also got me focused on the opportunity to check out and purchase some current “values”. Certainly the Maranges, Cotes Chalonnaise, and Maconnais regions are generally doing better than most realize. Maranges was formed in 1989 from the 3 villages there of Cheilly, Dezize, and Sampigny producing nearly all red wine in a cherry juicy style when consumed young and currently being helped by climate change. Whites and reds from Chalonnaise led by Rully whites, Givry & Mercurey reds with the wonderful raspberries of Clos du Myglands well known from Faiveley. Maconnais too should be considered particularly the 2020 whites. Another underrated region much improved is Auxey-Duresses (better whites now!) as well as red Monthelie for better ripened fruit. 2020 is looking more consistent than 2019 & 2021 with some rather still good values. Monitor the releases – including 2020 Macon-Chardonnay!
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