Jim Robertson & his wife Milena are longtime leaders of the Vancouver Branch of The International Wine & Food Society. They are also knowledgeable aficionados of the wines of Portugal including Porto and generously share this among their wide circle of friends. April 24, 2024 was an inspired port tasting showing an amazing collection of Taylor Fladgate six top Tawny Ports plus six Classic Vintage ones. Host Jim Robertson led this memorable event assisted by Cynthia Opsal The Fladgate Partnership Brand Ambassador & Key Account Manager with Pacific Wine & Spirits Inc. and the most insightful Leagh Barkley, a true Master of Port winning a challenging Canadian competition in 2022.
Your scribe also has been fortunate to attend many extensive Port tastings especially during the eighties and nineties hosted in San Francisco by the incomparable Haskell Norman, President of the Marin County IWFS usually assisted by Barney Rhodes. Remember well his horizontal of 1945 Vintage Ports held on January 24, 1988 where the unanimous winner was a drier powerful classy Taylor (Bottled by O.W.Loeb, Imported by Esquin) over a sweeter rounder second place Graham both having the most depth of colour in the grouping. Most nostalgic for me were the glorious memories of sixteen Taylor Vintage Ports in two flights from 1967 to 1947 and 1945 to 1896 (1927 slightly ranked ahead of 1945). The First Flight had the complex 1948 as unanimous winner followed by 1963 & 1955 and interesting to note that 1966, 1963, (both imported by Corti Bros.) and 1960 (imported by Connoisseur Imports) were all bottled at Taylor (not always the case in those early days).
The Robertson extravaganza started off with six exquisite delicious Tawny Ports with detailed notes attached. A few bonus comments:
10 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Red, lots of fresher fruit left, not nutty
20 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Amber pale, popular age, lovely mellowness
30 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Similar but more viscous, nutty, curry notes
40 YEAR OLD TAWNY: Surprising dark sediment, dried fruits, softer
GOLDEN AGE 50: Toasty rich smooth textured balanced flavours
VVOP – VERY VERY OLD PORT: Smoky cardamom spice, elegance and finesse delivered in an awesome cherished decanter!
Very impressive flight indeed and you are likely to find the style you appreciate most. No volatile acidity issues. Surprising sediment thrown in the 40 which didn’t expect after that long time in wood and being racked before bottling. Admire all the differences. Can Tawny be aged too long in wood? Will we see 60 or 75 next? Leagh made a smart point that Tawny Port is influenced by the House style but relies mainly on the “by hand blending” of components compared to Vintage Port based on the “Terroir” and early bottling of big fruit after two years.
Six Classic Vintage Ports followed:
1960 VINTAGE PORT: Very pale, stylish balsamic notes, medicinal, mature. Also was mature in 1984 at 24 years but still is holding on 40 years later at 64 years of age. Amazing longevity of Vintage Port.
1963 VINTAGE PORT: Red middle aged rim, fragrant open lovely tertiary bouquet but high acidity with an edgy fiery finish. Showed even better in 1984 and since. Spirit is starting to dominate the fruit?
1966 VINTAGE PORT: Much darker red tones than 1963 but with a rather reluctant nose at first. Has deep fresh rich fruit opening with time in the glass. Smooth and balanced & so complex. Clear winner of the Flight. Amazed how these 1966s continue to improve and admire their slow advancing development in the bottle. Same result recently with 1966 Fonseca & Graham both showing well against their more hyped older sibling 1963.
1970 VINTAGE PORT: Younger very dark deep look. Big bruiser but a touch of cardboardy VA musty fruit that clears somewhat. Good structure. There are better cleaner bottles.
1975 VINTAGE PORT: Pale light year shows. Not a classic year but a lovely more delicate style for drinking now.
1977 VINTAGE PORT: Dark but less red colour than 1970. Disappoints with corky TCA – surprising as I thought Portugal kept all their best corks for Vintage Port! Classic concentration of excellent fruit shows through nonetheless. Bad bottle. Experienced excellent 1977 Taylor Port on other occasions. On a plateau of enjoyment.
All these ports showed even more spectacularly when paired with roasted pistachios and warm toasted walnuts. A joy. Leigh suggested because of the sweetness Port matches really well with dishes containing chicory, radicchio, arugula, or other bitter lettuces. Try it. What a treat.
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