Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a Second Growth Pauillac Grand Cru Classé in the 1855 Classification. Since 1978 (plus some vintages before) this property has been a deserving Super Second with an amazing record of consistently fine wines first under the indomitable spirit of May-Elaine de Lencquesaing and more recently the conscientious musical direction of Nicolas Glumineau. Lots of memorable experiences with M-EdL & PL many recorded on this Blog linked here from June 18, 2013, June 15, 2020, and February 14, 2022. May’s elegant wines were often balanced with more Merlot & Petit Verdot that have stood well the taste of time. Over the last ten years NG has planted more Cabernet Sauvignon, reducing the Merlot component and adding more Cabernet Franc & less Petit Verdot in the blend. Riper fruit but expecting them to also age. Appreciate his recent reply to my question on vintage styles as follows:
2023: Combines the “mineral depth of 2020, sharp powdery tannic structure of 2019, and the vibrant energy of 2010 & 2005”.
2022: NG says it is “between 2020 & 2015” plus growing some white grapes making 150 liters of 2022 Chardonnay & Savagnin (he likes the Jura) after thinking about trying Chenin Blanc but deciding no chalky soil for elegance. Another plot has Chardonnay, Semillon, and Gros Manseng.
May built and cherished a wonderful Museum of Glass. Nicolas recommends discovering PL vintages accompanied by music: a new interpretation of the PL tannins of 2016 with Radiohead & 2014 Kate Bush. Your scribe likes his suggestion of listening to No Quarter by Led Zeppelin while enjoying the 2010. He prefers his PL 2020 to 2019. Ask Sid Wine Wednesday awarded @PichonComtesse the best social media coverage of the 2023 harvest on October 11, 2023 here.
May has authored a fantastic new book in French (being translated into English) by Tallandier called “Les vendanges d’un destin – De Bordeaux à l’Afrique du Sud”. She kindly included at the back twelve pages under “Souvenirs et Moments Partages” reminiscences requested from your scribe submitted in English but presently translated into French.
On February 13, 2024 Event #119 of the Vancouver Group of 8 at Blue Water Cafe celebrated a PL Vertical update. A few brief comments:
With a superb Dungeness Crab Salad we had the fresh vibrant in a softer style of 2014 (not 2005 as shown on the menu) of 61PN/39C with 8g/l dosage, disgorged in August 2021 still rather undeveloped bottle age.
2008 PICHON LALANDE: 63CS 29M 3CF 5PV Youngest one bright fresh stylish showing mineral PL terroir.
1996 PICHON LALANDE: 75CS 15M 5CF 5PV More dark intensity and riper CS definition with somewhat atypical bigger PL focus with best future potential. More towards the current Nicholas styling.
1995 PICHON LALANDE: 45CS 40M 15CF Younger of a sensational pair (like 1983 & 1982) is smoother and more accessible with higher Merlot in a pure elegant M-EdL statement.
1990 PICHON LALANDE: Much less fruit as no press wine was added so is much lighter lacking depth but showing better with forward elegance than on previous tastings. Enjoy now.
1994 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Darkest young look of First Flight. Undeveloped with similar flavours but is more primary herbaceous fruit with harder tannins. Very high quality is recognized but some of us thought it was a less celebrated vintage. Hard one to guess served blind. A much better showing paired with the delicious duck-mushroom pasta course.
1989 PICHON LALANDE: Was not served this time but usually has wonderful aromatics on a beautiful plateau of alluring silky tannins. 1989 PL is always way more intense and complex than 1990.
1986 PICHON LALANDE: Very dark & deep. Pure Pauillac bouquet with powerful graphite tobacco cedar notes. Admire the structure with firm tannins just coming into their own perfect balance. Like the future here.
1985 PICHON LALANDE: Paler edge much lighter than 1986. Was on occasion a shade weedy after release but has improved as a complete wine gracefully with bottle aging. Can enjoy it now. Nice matching with the exquisite herbal leg of lamb.
1983 PICHON LALANDE: A special fav of your scribe – and M-EdL. IMHO the best of the northern Medocs (including First Growths) in 1983. Shows that clean pure classic breeding with graphite black fruits, truffles and balanced energy. No rush. Excellent now but may develop even further complexities.
1920 VIN DE PICHON LONGUEVILLE: Deep punted 100+ years old bottle. Sommeliers Calem & NIna did an outstanding job of extracting by Durand the crumbly cork intact. Very pale old wine looks but bright & clear. Enticing first perfumes of exotic roses but surprisingly fresh styling. Wonderful delicacy and length. Guessed blind as 37 Lafite.
A rare treat indeed!
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