There seems to be more attention being paid lately in Burgundy on smaller shippers and especially the growers. We tend to dismiss the long great work and diverse wine portfolios of the main larger shippers. Certainly Louis Jadot is in the front ranks of these impressively owning 528 vineyard acres of which 280 are either Grand or Premier Cru. Therefore your scribe looked forward to tasting and revisiting some of their top wines at a Louis Jadot focus for the 117th Vancouver Group of Eight event at Blue Water Cafe held on January 9, 2024.
The start and finish of this remarkable dinner was most noteworthy. The aperitif of 2008 LOUIS ROEDERER CRISTAL BRUT after 10 years aging before release (plus around 6 more after disgorgement) still shows that wonderful classy energy, tension, well structured balance from Grand Cru selected 60% Pinot Noir & 40% Chardonnay. Surprised me that it has stayed so young, fresh and vibrant in spite of 20% barrel fermentation, and a not usual but about 1/6th malolactic because of the excellent initial acidity levels with the key ripeness in 2008. A refreshing pairing with the artistic foie gras torchon. Already aristocratic, long, and delicious but what a future ahead for developing an even more complex bouquet with velvety textures. A winner! Interesting to review the house comments on these bubbles in their helpful small brochure included in the package:
“Complex and intense bouquet disclosing candied citrus, yellow fruit, Williams pear, pollen and toasted almond. The delicately seductive bouquet shows intensity and well-honed precision. The wine is powerful, full yet tight, on entry to the palate. The 2008 is undeniably well structured but in a particular way: the wine’s almost saline concentration has not been created by the sun, but is derived from the dryness of the chalk soil in a particularly cool summer. The result is a smooth, almost liquorous, mouthfeel that coats the palate with a powerful yet soft texture. This gives way to an incredible finish, underpinned by freshness and an impression of absolute purity with a taut and very saline character. The Cristal 2008 is deep, intense and masterful.”
The digestif was the youngest Sauternes we have served at these events – the 2016 CHATEAU D’YQUEM. Coming after the recent delicate 1970 d’Yquem on December 7, 2023 noted here the difference was so dramatic This younger one is concentrated power from late picked 75% Semillon & 25% Sauvignon Blanc drinking well already with an exotic honey botrytis richness that is very attractive though for your scribe the finish was a tad strong at 14.2. The dessert captured outstandingly the mandarin, pineapple, mango, and passion fruit notes in the wine Well done. It shows how brilliant these sweet wines are at either 7 years or over 50 years of age. So versatile. When do you prefer to open them?
The main event study of Louis Jadot started with 2 top white Burgundy from outstanding vintages matched with a beautiful tasty scallop course followed by two flights of 3 reds each. Some brief thoughts: 2014 CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES HERITIERS: My favourite white vintage in Burgundy (including Chablis!) shows slight reduction initially with a vibrant higher firm acidity and excellent citrus minerality. Classic Corton Charlemagne can surprise you with their ability to age longer than you expect. Will still develop. Already a superb match with the seafood dish.
Our leader Ian Mottershead prepared a useful informative background sheet attached that differentiates between Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, and Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot. Worth checking out and also to look for on wine bottles of Louis Jadot. 2010 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET GRAND CRU LES DEMOISELLES, DOMAINE DES HERITIERS: A lower yielding great white Burgundy year that is more open with complexity plus much fuller richness. Improved as warmed and aired in the glass. Forwardly showing but with more creamy substance and weight to go on as well. So classy and preferred over the C-C in style by our group. What a stupendous start to the LJ event.
2005 VOLNAY 1ER CRU CLOS DE LA BARRE MONOPOLE: Darkest by far of first red flight with earthy cherries in a rustic tannic way. Seems like a big Beaune 1er cru without the elegant delicate finesse you look for in a top Volnay. OK but it doesn’t have Volnay terroir specific enough for me.
2005 CORTON-POUGETS GRAND CRU DOMAINE DES HERITIERS: Another one from that outstanding 2005 vintage but again somewhat atypical. Lighter paling edge look with floral spiced styling in an Oregon look-a-like. Perhaps not the best bottle of it with earlier ones showing more weight. Liked it more with the innovative Rillettes dish of both pork & rabbit plus smoked black trumpet mushrooms. Balanced and lovely but prefer the more impressive depth of their 2010 of this wine tasted last year.
2007 CLOS DE LA ROCHE GRAND CRU: Mid garnet appearance showing Morey-Saint-Denis solid red fruits with body being from a lesser vintage than 2005 but showing best of flight. Typical. No rush.
1996 CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE GRAND CRU, DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT: Bad luck here with a disappointing bottle that reeks of Brett and especially TCA. A shame because underneath that is buckets of fruit with power. Noticed bottles of later vintages were way too heavy and not sustainable while the following 1990 & 1985 were in very light admirable weight bottles. Please return to that.
1990 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS ST. JACQUES 1ER CRU DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT: One of my favourite terroirs! Drink the charming subtle complex underrated 1989 more often than this bigger 1990 with riper more intense fruit. Sous bois expressive and refined smooth textures and flavours for a sometimes reserved 1990 vintage. Shows what this vineyard can produce but more elegance in Rousseau 1990 or 1991 CSJ.
1985 BONNES MARES GRAND CRU DOMAINE LOUIS JADOT: Lighter look but amazing red colour for nearly 50 years old. Decanted last minute without sediment appreciated to get the stylish subtle wonderful aspects of this treasure. Really admire and enthusiastically agree with the write-up in 2021 here by Michael Apstein in Terroir Sense Wine Review. What a perfect description for this marvel: “flavor without weight” – “Explosive mineral-like dark flavors appear while the wine dances on the palate, LIGHT AS A FEATHER”. Sublime with one of the best boneless whole quail courses ever prepared anywhere by talented Chef Raimund Heuser. Congrats on a 3 star MIchelin presentation and taste to match! Memorable indeed.
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