Archive for May, 2017

Photo by Megan Mallen [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Last month I was delighted by an invite to the challenge of trying with dinner 10 red wines double blind. It always is stimulating to approach such an exercise with an open mind but bringing with you all your wine experiences and personal preferences. You usually outguess yourself as to whether it is a vertical, a horizontal or mixed group of wines but with something in common. The wines were served in 3 flights matched with Blue Water Cafe outstanding courses of Tagliatelle Aglio e Olio (with fresh black winter truffles), Fraser Valley Rabbit Porchetta (stuffed with portobella mushroom, swiss chard & foie gras served with pretzel bread pudding, roasted baby carrot, onion soubise, cassis jelly), and Roasted Rack of Lamb (lightly smoked & parsley crusted braised fennel heart, green chickpeas cumin panisse, tomato hazelnut puree, hay scented lamb jus). The wines in the order served as later disclosed with my initial impressions and some brief reflections:

1. 1966 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Browning rim with a distinctly open Left Bank Bordeaux aged herbal noted iodine elegant bouquet. Thinking old cooler year Leoville-Barton. When disclosed at the end as 50+ everyone was amazed. Brought back fond memories for me being on a tasting panel with Michael Broadbent and Bruno Borie (present proprietor of Ducru-Beaucaillou but then the owner of his recently purchased Lillet) at KPBS Auction in San Diego on November 5, 1986 conducting a choice event of 111 red Bordeaux wines (with 2 California ringers of BV Private Reserve & Martin Ray) in 19 flights all from the 1966 vintage at 20 years of age. We started at 9 am tried 47 and continued after lunch with 64 more. The 3 of us agreed that 1966 was indeed “a long distance runner” and Ducru-Beaucaillou served as #103 exemplified that with youthful balanced higher acidity that needed time to integrate. Slow developer. Now 30 years later a big surprise here and showing that breeding of a Second Growth!

2. 1975 Ducru-Beaucaillou: A bit more red colouring at the rim but also old with a drier nose but full rounded flavours. Surprised this was the 1975 because not showing those early big harsh tannins of this vintage but much softer now at 40 with a fair amount of fruit left. Almost creamy.

3. 1981 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Clearer younger claret red with less aged rim has clean fresh lively styling with lovely fruit. An underrated (before the 82) balanced wine on a drinkable plateau showing the vintage well. Excellent with the pasta course! End of first flight with our guesses including 3 St. Juliens of the 1985 vintage or three Leoville-Barton from the seventies. Close but no cigar!

4. 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Deep rich full impressive sweet fruit compared to drier first flight. Naturally everyone liked this and suggesting 1982. What gorgeous complex mature St Julien is all about.

5. 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Slightly corked bottle spoiled the experience. Does have fruit and elegance underneath it.

6. 1986 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Musty cellary nose seems unclean but structured. Maybe these 1985 & 1986 do have that wet cardboard/TBA (Tribromoanisole)/TCA from those contaminated wooden beams of their old cellars that affected the wines of the late eighties and resulted in checking and recorking by the Château of vintages 1985-1989 stored there and the better re-releases. I bought my bottles on their initial release and they have all showed clean and excellent. However, beware of all these vintages of Ducru-Beaucaillou from 1985 to the early nineties because there is big bottle variation and some bottles are badly flawed. Thought less so for 1985 & 1986 before this tasting.

7. 1988 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Shows clean pure full big fruit and some picked this as their top choice of second flight with others the 1982. An excellent 1988 paired so well with the rabbit porchetta course – and especially that cassis jelly.

8. 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Much younger riper deep classy fruit with perfect tannins which will be a classic. Already great at 20 years. Has a WOW factor! Outstanding. Sings with that rack of lamb.

9. 2003 Ducru-Beaucaillou: Riper full and luscious. Easy drinking forwardly style. Rather delicious.

10. 2005 Ducru-Beaucaillou: So different. Some woody turpentine-like strange aromas. Almost Malbec-like. Must be a ringer as doesn’t seem to have those typical Bordeaux aromas. Startled to learn it was the remarkable 2005 vintage as not showing well for this bottle at this time. Question mark?

Spotlighted earlier this year verticals of two other top Second Growth St Julien wines: Leoville Poyferre & Leoville Las Cases. Another great one here of arguably the best situation of “beautiful stones” for drainage and a unique terroir near the river. Obviously the wine from this property ages well and shows the class, breeding, and elegant balance you prize. Increased focus since mid-90s on cabernet (70%) and merlot (30%) and dropping cab franc & petit verdot. Also more new oak (75-90%) is being used with better strict selection for the Grand Vin. The future looks bright indeed!

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By Joseph Temple

Throughout the vineyards of Western Europe, don’t expect too much out of 2017.

That’s because last week, an unusual and severe frost, considered by many to be the worst in a generation, wreaked havoc on both sides of the Channel, severely crippling the wine industry across England and France. In the former, winemakers scrambled to light candles next to the emerging buds facing subzero temperatures. Dropping down to -6°C, one English vintner described the entire ordeal as “catastrophic” while another stated: “I’ve been in English wine for 30 years and never seen anything like it … It looks like there will be a 50% drop in this year’s expected yield – if not higher.”

With an emerging wine industry, England, which is increasingly becoming known around the world for its world-class sparkling wines is expected to be hit hard by this devastating spring frost. But by having such a strong focus on fizz, the impact won’t reach the consumer until 2020.

Moving on to France, the situation is just as dire as winemakers used everything at their disposal, from candles to helicopters to salvage what they could of this year’s harvest. Already enduring a 7% decline in total annual output last year due to a plethora of unfavorable weather conditions, two of its most famous regions—Champagne and Bordeaux—were likely hit the hardest. In the land of bubbly, it is estimated that between 20 to 25% of the region’s vine shoots were destroyed while the Bordelais have called this the worst frost to hit their region since 1991. Effecting every appellation from Médoc to Sauternes, and especially bad in the Right Bank, more than 60,000 hectares were struck by Mother Nature on April 20-21 and April 27-28.  According to Decanter, approximately 20% of Bordeaux vineyards lost between 90% and 100% of their potential 2017 crop.

In terms of dollars and cents, the damage in Bordeaux alone is at least €1billion. “We can already estimate that we have lost nearly half of the potential crop,” said Xavier Coumau of Bordeaux’s Syndicate of Wine and Spirits Courtiers. Adding fuel to the fire was the fact that a warmer than usual spring caused shoots to develop more rapidly. “The vineyard was three weeks ahead in its growth, shoots were already well developed. Frost destroyed everything – shoots are dead,” according to one French union official. Whether subsequent shoots will be able to flourish is still up in the air.

Luckily for some, they may escape with only a minimum amount of damage based where the vines were planted. Those in low-lying areas where the cold air settles are more susceptible as opposed to those on higher plateaus and on slopes. Interestingly, only 25% of winemakers in France are covered for this sort of damage by insurance companies, who charge enormous premiums that a majority simply refuse to pay.

What do you think of these most recent events? Is climate change making this the new normal in 2017? Comment below.

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Question: What is meant by Left Bank & Right Bank in wine tasting?

Answer: They refer to the two sides of the Gironde river in Bordeaux France but more specifically Left Bank (LB) south of Garonne River & Right Bank (RB) north of Dordogne River. LB includes the Medoc with all the top properties of the 1855 Classification of chateaux. The grape plantings usually have more Cabernet Sauvignon followed by the usual mix of Merlot & Cabernet Franc and sometimes Petit Verdot + Malbec.  RB is dominated by Merlot plus some Cabernet Franc in the famous Saint Emilion & Pomerol regions together with many emerging nearby satellite appellations. Generally though with “Bordeaux blends” now being produced from around the world these terms have taken on a much broader meaning to describe their style of wine. LB tend to be more structured and tannic when young needing some time to open while RB are usually riper softer with less aggressive tannins being more accessible early on. These days though both “Banks” use modern winemaking practices resulting in refined tannins for earlier approachability in style.

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Vinitaly hosts their outstanding annual wine fair in Verona showing some 4000 producers (out of a total of around 75,000) which you should visit with the latest one just held April 9-12. In fact they now have coordinated dates with the Bordeaux Primeurs so you can visit the two events consecutively as they are going to be 3 days apart:

2018: Bordeaux Primeurs April 9-12 & Vinitaly April 15-18.

2019: Bordeaux Primeurs April 1-4 & Vinitaly April 7-10.

2020: Bordeaux Primeurs March 30-April 2 & Vinitaly April 5-8.

In February 2014 Vinitaly launched Vinitaly International Academy (VIA) and rolled out an annual Certification Course starting in March 2015. By February 2016 they had appointed 55 Italian Wine Ambassadors & 6 Italian Wine Experts from 15 countries. This now has grown from 61 to 86 with the largest representation from China with 13. There is also their new Italian Wine Maestro for the public and much more details on their wine marketing programs at prweb.com.

The Roadshow 3rd edition of the Certification Course launched in Vancouver on April 28, 2017. They will be in New York June 25-30 & China in September. “A panorama of Italy’s great wines from North to South” showing 15 wines from among the visiting wineries was introduced by Stevie Kim Managing Director of Vinitaly International with the seminar conducted by Italian wine expert Ian D’Agata Scientific Director of VIA:

1. Graziano Pra – Soave Montegrande DOC 2015. Since 1988 pure fresh and elegant Soave from 70% signature garganega grapes grown on volcanic hills with some Trebbiano for acidity.

2. Medici Ermete – Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco Secco DOC 2016. Ruby red juicy Lambrusco with body goes well with charcuterie of cold-cuts & cheeses.

3. Paltrinieri – Grosso Lambrusco di Modena DOC 2013. Very light pink colour but 36 months on lees provides refined delicate rose-hip berry violets aromatics.

4. Azienda Rubino – Punta Aquila Salento Rosso Primitivo IGT 2014. Deep usual purple colour of Primitivo from younger vines planted 2000 has typical tobacco aftertaste in a modern style.

5. Tasca d’Almerita – Rosso del Conte DOC 2013. Historic wine with that licorice balsamic notes of Nero d’Avola from Sicily is smooth with balanced acidity to age well.

6. Cantina del Pino – Barbaresco Ovello DOCG 2012. Old Estate but their first one 1997 of Ovello at top of hill facing S/SW on sandy soil giving fragrant light on its feet Nebbiolo.

7. Marchesi di Barolo – Baolo Sarmassa DOCG 2012. Deeper with strong character in a big Barolo style that needs time to open up and show elegance.

8. GD Vajra – Vajra Barolo Bricco Delle Viole DOCG 2012. High elevation 400 metres cooler site is more floral with red berries cherries and violets.

9. Ciabot Berton – Barolo Roggeri DOCG 2010. Very impressive from top hilly La Morra site 300 metres SE exposure clay-calcareous soils and 40 year old vines first aged in French oak and then Slavonia casks. Like that classic balanced structure of Barolo from the 2010 vintage. Ian says best years are 2001, 2008 and 2010. 2009 earlier drinking and 2011 less obvious with some staying power and excelled in Barbaresco better than 2010 (as did 2014). Remember the “tar” needs age to show up in Barolo!

10. Umani Ronchi – Vampo San Giorgio, Conero Riserva DOCG 2011. Their 3rd vintage grown from 800 bottles in 2009 to 4000 in 2011. Montepulciano improving as they learn to tame the tannins by planting in cooler sites for longer hang time to avoid those usual green grape seeds.

11. Castello Romitorio – Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2011. High altitude vineyards from the cool area shows vibrant acidity with red berries, sour cherries, black tea, and violets. As ages more underbrush and tobacco will develop.

12. Giusti dal Col – Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2012. 85 year old Veneto vines with individual grape picking and air dried till February. Sweet cherries, macerated plums, chocolate and coffee at 16 1/2 alcohol.

13. Col d’Orcia – Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007. SE warmer area and lower elevation gives a riper rounder spicier version with some bottle age. Your scribe opened their 1978 last month and it was so exquisitely aromatic and delicate.

14. Tenuta di Capezzana – Villa di Capezzana DOCG 2007. One of the oldest estates starting from the twenties. New project started in 2006 has 10 year aging before release. 80% Sangiovese & 20% Cabernet Sauvignon in French oak shows well. Make great Vin Santo too.

15. Donnafugata – Ben Rye Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2014. Sweet 200 grams sugar with acidity lift of Muscat of Alexandria sun dried 3 weeks on the soil of unique windy island shows ripe tropical fruits peach apricot and floral notes and will age well.

Like this educational venture by VIA and pleased to participate receiving my certificate. Good luck with your expanded wine program!

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