Ask Sid: Pairing wine with duck

How to pair duck with wine
By Sakurai Midori (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: We are preparing some ducks for a special dinner and need your help in choosing the best wine pairing. What do you suggest Sid?

Answer: This is easy. I recommend pinot noir with duck, squab, other game birds and even chicken. Need more information to be more specific. Domestic ducks are milder than wild caught. Classic duck recipes work well with classic Burgundy pinot while modern preparations open the door to more New World choices. Two important issues to consider are your sauce and the accompaniments. Pinot noir delivers appropriate fruit weight with balance and refreshes your palate with the complementing acidity. If the wine is too jammy and alcoholic you may lose some of the complex special flavours of your delicious duck. Lots of good producers out there from Oregon, California, Ontario, BC, Central Otago, Tasmania, Mornington Peninsula and other regions. A good choice is Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery in Chile who produce an amazing range of excellent pinot noir from expensive Ocio to best buy Bicicleta (Bicycle series). My fav is their 20 Barrels Limited Edition from the cooler Casablanca Valley. Enjoy!


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Kiwifruit

Kiwifruit Presently enjoying a ripe sweet yellow kiwifruit from New Zealand. Wonderful colour and tropical taste loaded with healthy antioxidants of Vitamins B (folic acid) C & E. Also as a lawyer I find the story of kiwifruit fascinating starting from the 1920s when Hayward Wright first planted the Chinese Gooseberry in New Zealand where it thrived resulting in increased world export markets during the 1970s. This original “Hayward” variety had a brown fuzzy skin with a seedier tart green fruit. During the 1980s & 1990s increasing numbers of local growers fragmented the total production and with other countries such as Italy, Chile, Spain, France and South Africa entering into the picture as well there was severe price competition. The problem was that no one had registered a legal trademark for kiwifruit. A new cultivar “Hort16A” was developed in New Zealand and registered in 1996. Local growers in New Zealand got together in 1997 and formed a brand name for marketing called Zespri. In 1998 this new cultivar product was released called “Zespri Gold” which now is the current darling of the New Zealand kiwifruit industry. Lovely right now during their June to October season either by itself or in a smoothie with a banana and fruit juice. Try one. I think you will enjoy it.


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7 famous L.A. restaurants from the studio era

Famous Los Angeles restaurants from the golden age of Hollywood
By Joseph Temple

During the Golden Age of Hollywood, stars like Clark Gable, Spencer Tracy and Cary Grant lit up the marquees at theaters across the country, becoming household names while generating millions of dollars for studios such as RKO, Warner Brothers, Paramount, Columbia, MGM and Universal.  But where did all of these movie icons go to eat after the film stopped rolling and the spotlights were shut off?  In the city of Los Angeles, there certainly was no shortage of first-class restaurants that catered to stars of the studio era.  And below are seven examples that will take you back in time to an of era of continental-style fine dining, supper clubs and curved leather booths.  Enjoy!

Special thanks to the Los Angeles Public Library for providing most of the images for this posting.


Brown Derby Los Angeles
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Instantly recognizable for its signature derby hat logo and the accompanying motto “Eat in the Hat,” this chain became synonymous with Hollywood’s Golden Age.  With the first location opening its doors in 1926, the most famous of the Brown Derby restaurants became the one on Vine Street where its walls were covered in framed 8 by 10 inch caricatures of various celebrities.    Studio moguls Harry Cohn and Jack Warner both had permanent reserved seats for years while booth #54 became the spot where Clark Gable proposed to Carole Lombard.  Back then, if you ever wanted to see a celebrity in the flesh, the Brown Derby was the place to go.
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Brown Derby Hollywood and Vine Rita Hayworth at the Brown Derby Menu 1948 Brown Derby

(Left) The Brown Derby Restaurant near the famous Hollywood and Vine intersection. (Center) Actress Rita Hayworth and friend Evelyn Keyes dining at the Brown Derby, 1940. (Right) A 1948 menu from the Brown Derby. (click to enlarge all)


Earl Carroll Restaurant
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Driving down Sunset Boulevard in 1938, there was no way you could miss seeing a 24-foot neon sign of Beryl Wallace at the famous Earl Carroll Theatre where the slogan was “Thru These Portals Pass The Most Beautiful Girls In The World.”  A 1,000-seat supper club-theater, numerous stars that included Tyrone Power, Errol Flyn and Betty Grable lined up to see a lavish show that featured beautiful chorus girls singing on a 60-foot-wide double revolving stage and staircase built at a cost of approximately $500,000 ($8 million in today’s dollars).
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Earl Carroll Chorus Girls Earl Carroll Theatre earl carroll theatre

(Left) Chorus girls performing. (Center) Seating area and stage. (Right) Plaques of celebrity signatures outside the Earl Carroll Theater and Restaurant. (click to enlarge all)


Romanoff's Restaurant Beverly Hills

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On Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, flamboyant restaurateur Harry Gerguson assumed the identity of “Prince” Michael Romanoff, heir to Czarist Russian royalty during the time he owned Romanoff’s, one of the most posh places to eat for A-list celebrities.  In a town where everyone pretends to be somebody they’re not, its almost fitting that this restaurant, with its swank floor plan and larger than life owner, would explode in popularity.  Over the years, hundreds of famous people would dine here, including a young aspiring chef named Julia Child who loved one of the restaurant’s signatures dishes – strawberries Romanoff!
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Seating at Romanoff's Barbara Stanwyck at Romanoff's rb00815-01 rb00815-01

(Left) Interior dining area (Center) Actress Barbara Stanwyck at Romanoff’s.
(Right) Romanoff’s Menu. (click to enlarge all)


Perinos
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During the darkest days of the Great Depression, an immigrant from Northern Italy named Alexander Perino opened a fine-dining restaurant that ended up catering not only to celebrities but future Presidents Richard Nixon and Ronald Reagan.  Serving such renown dishes as veal scallopini, crepes suzette and strawberry Italienne, Perino’s would also earn a reputation as a mafia hangout, something its owner may have fostered by allowing mobster scenes for Hollywood movies to be filmed inside his restaurant.
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Perino's Restaurant Fashion show at Perino's Nixon Kissinger Perino's Restaurant

(Left) Owner Alexander Perino on the phone. (Center) Fashion show and luncheon at Perino’s.
(Right) President Richard Nixon & Henry Kissinger at Perino’s. (click to enlarge all)


Musso Frank Grill

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While many eateries have come and gone in the city of Los Angeles, Musso & Frank Grill has had the distinction for many years of being Hollywood’s oldest restaurant.  Originally founded in 1919, it eventually became the epicenter for writers in Tinseltown, being conveniently located next to the office building for the Writers Guild of America for many years.  With its world-famous food and martinis, diners have included William Faulkner, Ernest Hemmingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Charlie Chaplin who lunched there daily.

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Ciro's LA

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Located on the Sunset Strip, Ciro’s was the most popular restaurant/club for many years as the nightlife in Los Angeles exploded.  “The legend is that after a big premiere, a star’s social position for the year is determined by his table at Ciro’s” boasted its owner Herman Hover.   With chic silk walls and a red ceiling, legend has it that this hotspot played a key role in the courtship of Ava Gardner and Howard Duff as well as Rita Hayworth and Aly Khan.

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Ronald Regan and Dean Martin at Ciro's  Ciro's Menu rb03518-04

(Left) Ronald Reagan and Dean Martin dining at Ciro’s. (Center & Right) Menu and Wine List.
(click to enlarge all)


Chasen's

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For almost sixty years, this legendary West Hollywood restaurant entertained many distinguished guests with its great food and elegant ambiance.  Future President Ronald Reagan would propose to Nancy Davis at a booth that is now on display at his presidential library in Simi Valley.  Elizabeth Taylor loved Chasen’s world-famous chili so much that she had buckets of it flown in to Rome where she was filming Cleopatra.  And it was here where director Alfred Hitchcock learned about American cuisine and cocktails at his signature booth.
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Ronald Reagan's booth at Chasen's  Chasen's West Hollywood  Chasen's Exterior

(Left) The booth where President Reagan proposed to Nancy Reagan. (Center & Right) Waiting Room and Exterior of Chasen’s before its demolition in 1999. (click to enlarge all)


With branches in Los Angeles, Laguna Beach, Chula Vista, La Jolla & Pasadena, the International Wine & Food Society has a strong presence across Southern California.


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Ask Sid: When is it too late to open that bottle of wine?

wine vinegar
By Taro Taylor from Sydney, Australia (Splash Drip) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I was at a friend’s house and saw that he had a bottle of 1998 Pouilly Fuisse Bouchard Pere in his wine console so I decided to take a few pics with my cell phone camera.  Is it still drinkable?  I don’t know what temperature he keeps his house or the humidity levels.  Is there some sort of rule of thumb on when a bottle turns into vinegar?

Answer: I would open this wine as soon as possible regardless of storage. Could still be alive as a softer Chardonnay showing a deeper yellow colour with still some regional aged spicy smoky nut character.  However, could also be an oxidizing or maderizing bottle. Check it out now as it won’t improve. Suggest you maybe have some soft runny mature French cheese like Epoisses or Soumaintrain ready to match with it. Bouchard Pere is a top firm since 1731 with large prime vineyard holdings but this wine uses purchased grapes from the more southerly Maconnais region of Burgundy with the difficult 1998 vintage conditions including hail, frost and even mildew. There is no strict rule of thumb of when a wine turns to vinegar. Dry reds usually last longer than dry whites. Chardonnay grown in the top vineyards proven to provide underlying structure to their wines like Corton Charlemagne & Meursault Perrieres age and develop consistently for the longest period – providing you can avoid the recent curse of premox (premature oxidation)! Hopefully enjoy.

 photo 1(3)  photo 2(3)

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Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirloom Tomatoes

Really like those colourful tomatoes with their healthy heart friendly antioxidant lycopene properties. Lots of varieties out there but at grocery stores for most of the year we see only the new breed of hard flavourless varieties that ship well. Frustration has compelled many of us to now grow our own from seeds in the backyard. This time of year during summer the farmer markets are full of heirloom tomatoes in their many glorious shapes and colours. The small orange Sungold and SunSugar  cherry tomatoes are very sweet and most popular. Green are interesting particularly the Green Zebra with their intense tarter zippy energy. Japanese Black Trifele is dark red and rich. Yellow Brandywine are usually large softer and yellow.  So many varieties to try and mix and match in pursuit of the perfect tomato. My preference still is Black Krim which always seems to be ripe enough – so juicy, sweet, and almost smoky.

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