Old Jura Wines

Jura wine region
By Phillip Capper (originally posted to Flickr as Jura, France 1987) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

The new book through Kickstarter by Wink Lorch on Jura Wines is stimulating interest in this region. The recent tasting of Top Drop had Sedimentary Wines pouring old bottles including 1945 Chateau Chalon (100% Savagnin with flor), Cotes de Jura blanc (chardonnay) back to 1888, and Cotes de Jura rouge (a blend of pinot noir, trousseau, and poulsard) back to 1915. Good to see such old wines being released from the producer’s cellars directly into the marketplace. Check out Caves Jean Bourdy since 1475 and other top producers. Also follow jurawine.co.uk. Magical pairing is with escargot and garlic just like they do it in the Jura! Try it.


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8 facts about Julia Child and The French Chef that may surprise you

Julia Child The French Chef
By Joseph Temple

On one extremely cold night in the city of Boston, viewers tuning into Channel 2 had no idea that they were about to witness a pivotal moment in both the history of television and food.  It was February 11, 1963 and premiering at 8 p.m. on WGBH was a show called The French Chef starring a largely unknown culinary figure named Julia Child.  With her distinctive voice, unbridled enthusiasm and a superb knowledge of gastronomy, the show eventually became a hit throughout the United States.  Before anyone had ever coined the term “celebrity chef,” Child was embraced by housewives across the country as they watched her prepare dishes with such exotic names that few Americans could pronounce like Boeuf Bourguignon and Pommes Duchesse.

Airing for ten years on public television, The French Chef inspired a whole generation of foodies who watched an approachable and nonpatronizing host cook superb dishes every single week.  And along with her iconic book, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Child had successfully created her own unique brand long before the invention of The Food Network.

Below are eight interesting facts you may not know about Child and her groundbreaking show:


Julia Child
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Inside the gym at MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology), a weekly book review show called I’ve Been Reading had been produced on a shoestring budget by WGBH.  Looking for guests to appear on the program, a viewer had called in and suggested that they invite a young promising chef named Julia Child who had just published a new cookbook.

“We don’t review cookbooks,” was the response of the show’s pompous host.

However, one day before the program aired, the author scheduled to appear had cancelled — and so did the backup guest.  Scrambling to find a replacement, the producer reluctantly invited Child, who ended up taking the show by storm with an on-air cooking demonstration.  With the switchboards lighting up, anxious viewers called in to see when she would be back.  Responding to all the positive feedback, executives at WGBH ordered three pilots for a show starring Child devoted entirely to French cooking – a decision that would eventually propel her into the national spotlight.

If it wasn’t for a random chain of cancelling guests, Julia Child may have never been discovered as a star.

Source: The Other Face of Public Television: Censoring the American Dream by Roger P. Smith


Julia Child Boston WGBH

Julia Child was certainly there at the right time – but more importantly – she was also in the right place.  That’s because in 1962, many thought that a television series dedicated entirely to French cuisine would have little appeal in the various markets across the country.  “These pilots would not have worked in Bayonne, New Jersey,” said one of the show’s producer years later.  Watching someone cook up dishes that Middle America thought only the privileged and powerful ate would never take off – except in the city of Boston that is.

Home to the Kennedys and Harvard University, The Cradle of Liberty proved to be the best possible place for Julia Child to launch her career in television.  Biographer Laura Shapiro writes:

“Dozens of colleges and universities, long-standing Brahmin institutions such as the Boston Symphony Orchestra and the Museum of Fine Arts, and an unusually well-educated, well-traveled population made the area unique in the nation.  The founders of WGBH intended the new station to be yet another jewel in the city’s cultural crown.  French cooking fit right in; and, as viewers quickly made clear, so did Julia.”

Source: Julia Child: A Life by Laura Shapiro


Julia Child lost pilot episodes
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In an era of streaming content, binge watching and DVD boxed sets, it’s hard to imagine that any television producer would eliminate a lucrative source of revenue by erasing the tapes of an episode they just filmed.  But in 1962, it was common practice to tape over aired shows as a cost savings measure. Because of this train of thought, many historic moments in the medium’s history are lost forever – including the first episode of The Ed Sullivan Show, nearly all the episodes of The Tonight Show with Jack Parr – and most importantly, the three pilots of The French Chef.

Filmed between June 18 and June 25, 1962, the first three episodes titled “The French Omelet,” “Coq au Vin,” and “Onion Soup” were unfortunately taped over by WGBH.  So unless you watched them live, you’ll never get the chance to see them.

Source: Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child by Noel Riley Fitch


Julia Child popularizes the phrase bon appetit
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Today the phrase bon appétit is so embedded into our collective lexicon, we rarely think about its origins.  Yes, it’s a French saying which means, “enjoy your meal” but when exactly did Americans start using this foreign expression?

Look no further than Julia Child and The French Chef who at the end of each episode would look straight into the camera and sign off with: “This is Julia Child. Thank you. Bon appétit!”

In Dearie: The Remarkable Life of Julia Child, author Bob Spitz writes:

“For most viewers, that phrase was a complete mystery. It wasn’t customarily said at tables—or anywhere, for that matter. The audience could only guess at its meaning, an expression for which there was no correlation in English. And, yet, it had such an exotic sound to it. Bon appétit! There was something musical about it, festive, something merry and playful. And when it rolled so exuberantly off of Julia Child’s tongue, it felt as comfortable as a warm hug.”

Source: Dearie: The Remarkable Life of Julia Child by Bob Spitz


Fake wine on the french chef
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In 1963, with the exception of a few ethnic pockets around the country, America was certainly not a nation of wine drinkers.  The Don and Betty Drapers of that era mostly sipped on Martinis, Blue Hawaiians and numerous other cocktails whenever they went out to dine.  And if they got tired of drinking spirits, beer was the next best thing.

So when Julia Child finished an episode of The French Chef with a glass of wine in her hand, believing that it should be enjoyed with meals, it was quite a culture shock to most Americans watching at home.

But little did people know back then that Child wasn’t drinking wine at all.  Due to the miniscule budgets, neither the show’s host nor the producers could afford to buy wine for her signature salute.  Instead, the glass was filled with water and darkened with GravyMaster, a coloring agent.

Source: The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation by David Kamp


Julia Child authentic
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With only a few hundred dollars to produce each episode of The French Chef, WGBH couldn’t afford to do rehearsals.  Nor was it in the budget to make edits and splices, putting enormous pressure on Child to go nearly thirty minutes uninterrupted.  And despite preparing for each show like it was make or break, something was bound to go wrong during a half hour taping – and it did, many times.

However, all of these bloopers only added to the show’s authenticity as viewers saw these mistakes more as teachable moments.  Who hadn’t spilled something on the floor or overcooked a dish in the stove?  “Honest” and “natural” became the words associated with Julia Child, who brilliantly turned a perceived negative into an absolute positive.

Source: Julia Child: A Life by Laura Shapiro


Name of Julia Child's show
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Before the show’s debut, a number of names were thrown around.  They included:

  • The Gourmet Kitchen
  • Cuisine Magic
  • The Gourmet Arts
  • The Chef at Home
  • Cuisine Mastery
  • Kitchen a la Francaise
  • French Cuisine at Home

So why did they settle on The French Chef?  It had to be short enough to fit nicely into the newspaper’s television guide.

Source: Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child by Noel Riley Fitch


Legacy of The French Chef
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Although the show has been off the air since 1973, there is no doubting the enormous footprint that Julia Child and The French Chef has left on the food industry.  Appearing on the cover of Time in 1966, the magazine noted that “Let Julia Child so much as mention vanilla wafers, and the shelves are empty overnight.”  Also, during a time when most people stored pots in their kitchen cupboards, she was able to show the world how to maximize space by hanging them on the wall with pegboards – a decorative trend that has more or less continued to this day.

 


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Ask Sid: What’s the best time to visit a winery?

What's the best time to visit a winery?

Question: What’s the best time to visit a winery?

Answer: Quite a difficult general question. No best time really but lots of different opportunities. Earlier in the day is less busy than later in the afternoon. Weekdays are easier than the weekends – especially crowded long weekends. The month depends a lot on your destination. In the Northern Hemisphere January, February & March are slower in the winery and vineyards so this offers a nice chance to maybe meet the winemaker and walk through the dormant vines to learn more about their specific location. April through August is a popular time. I am often in the European vineyards for update visits during May & June. Remember that August can be vacation shutdown especially in France – and check out their numerous Bank Holidays. September & October are excellent to see the harvest but remember that all the winery staff are extremely busy at this time and many take no visitors. Piedmont super late October early November for the “nebbia” fog and experience the white truffle festival. Popular winery visit times however mean it is more difficult to reserve restaurants and hotels.  November & December slows down but they are looking after the new young grape juice and the Christmas/New Year seasons bring closures. Note that the Southern Hemisphere wineries will be opposite for seasons. Nice to visit southern Italy & Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, and South Africa during our northern winter months of November through April – their summer including early Fall harvest. Check out the local wine tours offered in your region. I recommend an interesting wine tour blog for some European wineries here.


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Bordeaux Update

Update on Bordeaux
By Jonas Roux (originally posted to Flickr as [1]) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Some of my random thoughts after a busy week of events in Vancouver spotlighting Bordeaux:

2014: Stephen Lemaitre Vintex Commercial Director for the Americas is encouraged that estimates of increased crop levels for 2014 over 2013 will help lower present exalted prices. After a lovely Spring and good flowering the weather has been mixed resulting in a catch up year with some recent rains but the forecast for the last 2 weeks of September is sunny and encouraging. Quality levels still to be determined.

2013: Tasting many barrel samples showed whites preferred: Domaine de Chevalier outstanding, Pape Clement, Malartic Lagraviere & Fieuzal also at a high level picked before the heat and rains. Reds suffered from both late budding and flowering, some coulure, rainy Spring and early Summer followed by hot July, August and September but rains forced earlier picking to avoid rot. Harvest of merlots advanced from expected October 8 date and some cab sauv picked in the rain. Sauternes faired much better picking with botrytis between the showers. 2013 reds are lighter but show their terroir well. Bill Blatch of www.bordeauxgold.com and Christie’s Bordeaux wine consultant says “lovely purity of raspberry fruit in 2013 acting a bit like a light Volnay in Burgundy presently but in 5 years will show OK.”

2012: Reds forwardly with lower acidity showing some successful merlots. Sauternes difficult with 4 top properties declassifying. Again dry whites excellent.

2011:  Current releases show lack of uniformity. Another leaner year that was the opposite of 2013 with a warm Winter hot Spring but cool + wet in July & August delayed ripening and saved by September & October warm up. Bill Blatch says he “was on the beach in February” and “wearing a Panama hat to the office in the Spring”. Lovely whites picked in August earlier than 1893.  Clean amazing pure selection of 2011 Chateau Latour impresses me but it lacks the usual power and concentration. Is it really worth 15 times the price of neighbouring Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste? Bill states that ” If I was starting a wine cellar now I would buy the 2011 vintage”.

Seems like the 2014, 2013, 2012 and 2011 will be 4 less uniform vintages following 2 outstanding years of 2010 and 2009. Note this is quite a similar pattern to 20 years ago when the disappointing 1991, 1992, 1993 and 1994 vintages followed that great pair of 1990 & 1989 Bordeaux wines!

2000 & 1990: Rain that fell on the 1999 harvest continued till February 2000 raising the water table, Mildew risks in April that smaller properties were able to handle better. Mid June finally some heat and July quite warm “better than the stats showed” says Bill. Vintage saved by the triple 000’s.  1990 warm wet winter gave the vines a fast start and heat wave continued right through giving tasty lush velvety softer styling. Bill Blatch and this blogger conducted a comparison tasting of 2000 and 1990 for the French wine club Les Chevaliers des Vins de France. Both vintages developing nicely. Bill says 2 characteristics of St Estephe on blind tastings for him are “Oriental spice & abrupt tannins”. Croizet Bages 2000 didn’t show too badly against a magnificent magnum of a leaner vintage for cedar-cigar box Mouton Rothschild in 1990 (like the Pichon Lalande) but Bill says Croizet had “vineyard spacing too wide and using a bad rootstock.” Other 2000s: Haut Marbuzet ready, Yon Figeac a L’Evangile wannabe, Rouget very ripe and concentrated even if a bit rustic. Best wine on the table was clearly the rich opulent 1990 L’Evangile followed closely by two other 1990s drinking well:  classy Trotanoy and fleshy alive Sociando Mallet.

“Bordeaux, toujours Bordeaux” – the official song of the Grand Conseil de Bordeaux!


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10 #diy ways to create a truly unique wine rack

ways to create a unique wine rack

By Joseph Temple

Are you looking for a project to do this fall?  Well how about creating the ultimate conversation piece by building a do-it-yourself wine rack?  Below you can find ten inspirational ideas from Pinterest by using recycled materials – many of them might just be gathering dust in your basement or garage.  So get to work and submit the final product to our pin board by clicking here.  Best of luck!

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1. Barn wood and railroad spikes

Milk Crate Wine Rack

2. Old Milk Crates

PVC pipes wine rack

3. PVC Pipes

Wine rack made from warped vinyl

4. Vinyl records

Wine Rack made from an ammunition box

5. Reclaimed Ammo Box

Wine rack made from copper pipes and bed springs

6. bed springs & copper pipes

Wine rack made from a film reel

7. vintage film reels

Wine rack made from a fallen tree

8. a fallen tree

Wine rack dresser

9. Repurposed dresser

Wine rack from home piping

10. Picture frame and pipes


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