By Joseph Temple

Every student who studies the American Revolution in school learns about patriots throwing tea into Boston Harbor, the first shots fired at Lexington and Concord and General George Washington leading his troops across the Delaware.  But often overlooked is the pivotal role that Madeira—a fortified wine made on a Portuguese archipelago bearing the same name—played during this tumultuous time.   Legend has it that after signing the Declaration of Independence, its authors celebrated their newly minted nation with a toast of this liquid pleasure.   That’s because revolutionaries all grew especially fond of this drink, as it came to symbolize their righteous struggle against the rule of King George III.   Here are five reasons why it became so popular in the thirteen colonies while helping to plant the seeds of revolution.

1. The Tax-Free Alternative

With no domestic wine industry, America’s first oenophiles were at the mercy of British sanctioned exports—and more importantly, British taxation.  In order to drink Bordeaux or Champagne during this time, one would have to pay a sizable duty, making this beverage accessible only to wealthy colonists.  But because Britain had an exclusive trade deal with Madeira following the marriage of King Charles II to Portuguese princess Catherine of Braganza, all wine produced on these islands was exempt from any harsh taxation.  It was no surprise then that sales of Madeira skyrocketed throughout the colonies as an affordable alternative to more expensive European wines. With resentment against British policies reaching a boiling point, this drink came to symbolize what “taxation with representation” might look like following independence.
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2. Built to Last

Imagine you’re living in the southern colonies during the pre-revolutionary period.  The heat can be unbearable during the summer months while refrigeration is still years away from becoming a reality.  Wine sent across the Atlantic Ocean is frequently ruined by the rocky voyage and the odds of it lasting through a humid summer without turning into vinegar are miniscule.   That is, unless it’s Madeira!

While sailing the seas, ship captains discovered that despite the intense heat and constant movement on board, Madeira, unlike other wines, actually improved under these conditions.  Describing its almost infinite lifespan, author Benjamin Wallace in his book The Billionaire’s Vinegar writes, “it became common for advertisements for barrels of Madeira to boast of the miles they’d traveled, the distant port seen … it was impossible to ruin something that had, essentially, perfected the taste of ruin.  Further oxidation is simply making Madeira more like itself.”  So in addition to its attractive price tag, colonists had found a drink that could endure both a Boston winter and a Georgia summer.
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3. The Liberty Affair

Asked to name the key events that led to the American Revolution, many will bring up the Boston Massacre of 1770 or the Boston Tea Party of 1773.  But another incident that proved to be just as critical in fostering the revolution was the Liberty Affair—an important turning point in American history during which Madeira played a central role.

Before John Hancock became famous for his signature, he was a Boston merchant and alleged smuggler who constantly thumbed his nose in the face of British tax collectors.  On May 9, 1768 however, his sloop Liberty arrived with 25 pipes (large wooden barrels) of “the best sterling Madeira,” just one quarter of the vessel’s carrying capacity.  Believing that he had unloaded the rest without paying the required duties, the ship was seized and Hancock was charged with smuggling.  This resulted in one of the worst riots in Boston’s history when colonists, already infuriated with the Royal Navy for impressing them, violently revolted in the defense of Hancock and his supposedly smuggled wine.  Call it the Boston Madeira Party!
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4. Washington’s Medicine

During his time in office, President George Washington became one of the nation’s first entrepreneurs by distilling whiskey at his home on Mount Vernon.  Due to this fact, Washington is often misrepresented as a fan of spirits when his true passion was for “the rich oily Madeira” as he described it, drinking up to three glasses a day and even before heading into battle.  A possible reason for this were the chronic toothaches that haunted him throughout his entire life.  In the days before modern dentistry, the near 20% alcohol contained in Madeira proved to be a decent numbing agent for the president’s pain.
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5. Madeira diplomacy

Arguably, America’s greatest diplomat was Ben Franklin who successfully lured France into the fight against the British, tipping the scales in favor of the rebellious thirteen colonies.  And just like Washington, Adams and Jefferson, Franklin enjoyed drinking Madeira, even having a glass at his elbow while he helped to write the Declaration of Independence.  But his negotiating skills and love for Portuguese wine didn’t stop there.

Needing some firepower to defend Boston, Franklin met with New York Governor George Clinton who was timid over the request.   After a few glasses of Madeira, however, Clinton quickly succumbed to the powers of persuasion.  “He at first refus’d us peremptorily; but at dinner with his council, where there was great drinking of Madeira wine … he softened by degrees, and said he would lend us siz.  After a few more bumpers he advanc’d to ten; and at length he very good-naturedly conceded eighteen,” wrote Franklin in his autobiography.

Sources:

Hirsch, Colin. Forgotten Drinks of Colonial New England: From Flips and Rattle-skulls to Switchel and Spruce Beer. Charleston: The History Press, 2014.
Kitman, Marvin. The Making of the Prefident 1789: The Unauthorized Campaign Biography. New York: Harper & Row, Publishers, Inc., 1989.
Middlekauff, Robert. The Glorious Cause: The American Revolution, 1763-1789. New York: Oxford University Press, 2005.
Vine, Richard. The Curious World of Wine: Facts, Legends, and Lore About the Drink We Love So Much. New York: Penguin Group, 2012.
Wallace, Benjamin. The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery of the Most Expensive Bottle of Wine. New York: Three Rivers Press, 2009.
Will-Weber, Mark. Mint Juleps with Teddy Roosevelt: The Complete History of Presidential Drinking. Washington DC: Regnery History, 2014.

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By Joseph Temple

One of the greatest benefits of joining the International Wine & Food Society is the opportunity to travel around the world by attending the various festivals held throughout the year.  Since 2012, members have cruised down the Rhône River, soaked up some sun in Puerto Vallarta and dined in style at our most recent International Festival in Vancouver, British Columbia.

And this year, things are off to a great start as we travel to the city of New Orleans for what promises to be an outstanding culinary weekend.  With images of jazz trumpets, flickering gas lamps and Cajun/Creole inspired foods, the Big Easy is world renown for both its southern hospitality and a proud gastronomic heritage that is older than the country itself.  Writing about Crescent City cuisine, legendary author Mark Twain described it “as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.”

So for this week’s entry, have a look at four dishes and one drink that were created in the city’s most legendary restaurants, markets and bars:

By Pachango (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

1. Oysters Rockefeller

No history of New Orleans cuisine is complete without a reference to Antoine’s – a cornerstone of the French Quarter since 1840.  With thirteen different dining rooms and a wine cellar that stores approximately 25,000 bottles, every foodie and oenophile needs to visit there at least once during their lifetime.

Of course, the restaurant’s most famous dish that’s often imitated but never duplicated is Oysters Rockefeller, created by second-generation owner Jules Alciatore in 1889.  Using a rich puree as the secret ingredient that’s been closely guarded for over a century, no one except the current ownership knows exactly what makes these Oysters taste so delicious.  Bottom line: you haven’t tried them until you eat there.

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By sailn1 (Flickr: [1]) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

2. Muffuletta

Looking back at the many groups who made New Orleans into what it is today, there is no denying the impact that Sicilians have had on this city.  From St. Mary’s Church on Chartres Street to the annual festivities on St. Joseph’s Day, the fingerprints of southern Italy can be seen all over town.  But in terms of their culinary contribution, look no further than the many Italian-owned grocery stores, some of which are still in operation to this day.  In fact, due to the outstanding quality of food sold in these stores, New Orleans rejected the arrival of big-chain supermarkets for many years.

The most well-known market, which opened its doors for the first time in 1906 is Central Grocery, founded by Sicilian immigrant Salvatore Lupo.  And a big reason for its century-long success is that it can lay claim to being the spot where the famous Muffuletta sandwich was invented.  Consisting of firm-bodied Italian bread loaded with cold cuts that include mortadella and Genoa salami, provolone cheese and olive salad, this delicacy is the quintessential Crescent City dish.  So if you’re looking for that authentic NOLA experience, step back in time and experience what an old-fashioned Italian grocery was like while chowing down on this tasty sandwich.
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3. The Po’ boy

Without question, there’s no shortage of fine-dining establishments in the city of New Orleans.  But if you’re looking for a bite to eat for lunch or some moderately priced fare, you’ll need to try the world-famous Po ’boy sandwich that is sold all over the city.

According to legend, the dish got its name during a violent streetcar strike in 1929, when a sympathetic sandwich shop owner fed striking rail workers or “poor boys” as he called them for free during the entire dispute.  Since then, this concoction consisting of French bread filled with either gravy soaked roast beef or fried seafood and showered with fresh toppings has become one of the city’s most popular meals.  Whether you’re young or old, rich or poor, you’ll have to try a Po ’boy when you’re in New Orleans.

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By Kimberly Vardeman (Flickr: Brennan’s Bananas Foster Flambé) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons
By vxla [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

4. Bananas Foster

Somebody once said that dessert is the whole point of a meal.  And there’s no dessert that’s more synonymous with New Orleans than Bananas Foster.  Created at Brennan’s in 1951 when the restaurant was on Bourbon Street, this is a simple, but satisfying dish of ice cream covered with bananas cooked in a rich brown sugar sauce.  Of course, what makes this dessert a memorable experience is when your server pours rum over this rich dish table side and lights it on fire!

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By Gary J. Wood (Flickr: Pat O’Brien’s Courtyard) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

5. The Hurricane

From the Grasshopper to the Ramos Gin Fizz, there are many memorable beverages that were born in the bars of the Big Easy  But no signature drink is more recognizable and timeless than the Hurricane and its distinct vase-shaped glass.  Created at Pat O’Brien’s, known today as the “the Mount Rushmore of bars” in the mid-1940s, the former speakeasy owner stumbled upon something incredible when he decided to unload his rum – an unpopular spirit at the time – by mixing it with fresh lemon juice, passion fruit syrup and crushed ice. Selling it in what has become known as the Hurricane glass, this libation went on to be one of America’s most popular cocktails that extends well beyond the boundaries of the French Quarter.
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Sources:

Besh, John. My New Orleans: The Cookbook. Kansas City: Andrews McMeel Books, 2009.
Maruzzi, Peter. Classic Dining: Discovering Americas’ finest mid-century restaurants. Layton: Gibbs Smith, 2012.
Murphy, Michael. Eat Dat New Orleans: A guide to the unique food culture of the Crescent City. New York: Countryman Press, 2014.
Stern, Jane & Michael. Roadfood Sandwiches: Recipes and Lore from Our Favorite Shops Coast to Coast. New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 2007.

Since 1935, The International Wine & Food Society has had a branch in the city of New Orleans – one of the very first branches founded in North America by André Simon.

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By Joseph Temple

Rarely does a week go by without a news story or opinion piece discussing the growing impact of Millennials.  While still loosely defined, this generation roughly encompasses those born in the early 1980s to the early 2000s.  And with eighty-six million of these up and comers in the United States alone, they are now 7% larger in terms of population than their baby boomer parents – making them a powerful economic force that advertisers are eager to target.

But what impact is this group having on the wine industry as 10,000 Millennials turn 21 every single day?  The changing demographics ensure that this generation will be the largest consumers of wine within the next couple of decades.  So with this seismic shift taking place, here are five ways that Millennials are changing (or have changed) the way we buy and drink wine.

As the most diverse generation in American history, Millennials have shown that they are willing to try out all sorts of different foods – and different wines! Based on a study done by the Wine Market Council, 85% of Millennials either “frequently” or “occasionally” purchase unfamiliar brands in comparison to just 61% of baby boomers.  That means a greater opportunity for lesser-known vintners in non-traditional wine regions to compete with the famous names of Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Loire Valley.
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A frustration shared by many Millennials are their earnings, which are far lower than their parents when they were the same age.  It’s no surprise then that when it comes to buying wine, this generation is consistently looking for value.  According to certified sommelier and wine educator Stephanie Miskew, the ideal price point for Millennials is between $10-$12 with few spending more than $20 on a bottle.  So while there is a greater opportunity for smaller wineries in the marketplace, be warned that this group is just as willing to walk away if they feel that they’re being gouged.
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If you’re a talented graphic designer that likes to think outside the box, here’s some great news!  In the Journal of Product & Brand Management, Professors Joe Barth and Statia Elliot found that Millennials are far more likely to purchase wine based on its label.  Bottles with flashy colors, hip fonts and clever names that are dripping with sexual innuendo like “4 Play” or “Make Me Blush” are more likely to fly off the shelves with this group of consumers.  Gone are the days of castles printed on beige labels as more wineries invest in youthful brand marketers that strive in getting as many eyeballs looking at their product as possible.
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With this generation feeling that it has gotten the shaft from employers, creditors and politicians, anti-establishment feelings runs deep with many Millennials.  And when it comes to what wine they’ll purchase, these young people are far less likely to be influenced by the Robert Parker’s or the Wine Spectator’s of the world.  In an article published on FoxBusiness.com, Naked Wines (again with the racy names) CEO Rowan Gormley states that “in the same way they don’t trust the banks, insurance companies or the government, they [Millennials] don’t care what critics say about a wine or how many medals a bottle has won.”  Consider it Generation Gap 2.0.
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What are Millennials looking for in a wine?  One vital aspect is a great story illustrated through the power of websites like Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter – instant information at their fingertips, anytime, anywhere.  With this generation’s insatiable appetite for knowledge, wineries now have a tremendous opportunity to speak directly to them online with information about the region, their history and what products they have for sale.  And with Millennials far more likely to share this info with their friends via social media, creating YouTube videos and other visual-centric content that’s mobile friendly is a surefire way to immediately reach this vital demographic.
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By Joseph Temple

As the world’s fourth largest producer of wine, California’s vineyards now generate over 120 billion dollars annually and are responsible for three out of every five bottles purchased by Americans.  Internationally, 47.2 million cases were exported to 125 countries in 2012 – up 51% from a decade before.  Never has the Golden State been more of a viticultural superpower than it is today.

But if you’ve studied the region’s history, you know that there have been many trials and tribulations on the path to prosperity.  So for this week, have a look back at seven decisive turning points that helped create the wines of California that we enjoy today.
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Whether it was the early studio moguls that created Hollywood or Okies escaping the Dust Bowl during the Great Depression, California has historically served as a magnet for people looking to create a better life financially.  And during the mid-19th century, thousands of Americans migrated west when word spread that there was gold to be found.  Almost overnight, the population of San Francisco exploded as the first “forty-niners” arrived in 1849 with hopes of striking it rich.  However, when it all ended in 1855, the only ones making any money were the people selling shovels.

Unable to prosper in the gold fields of Northern California, many migrants turned to another potential source of revenue – the terroir of Napa and Sonoma.  Capitalizing on the region’s fertile soil and ideal climate, many traded in their pans for a new life as winemakers.  Some of these famous names included Charles Krug, Jacob & Frederick Beringer and Agoston Haraszthy who advocated tirelessly for the blending of European grapes with native rootstocks.
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Today, it might seem strange to think of foggy San Francisco as the wine capital of America.  But at the beginning of the twentieth century, with its wealthy wine merchants and close proximity to both rail lines and the Pacific Ocean, “The Paris of the West” controlled the production and distribution of nearly all Golden State wines.  Home to the powerful California Wine Association (CWA), its headquarters stored millions of bottles for shipment across the entire United States.

But in 1906 when a catastrophic 7.8-magnitude earthquake left the city in ruins, the wine industry learned a painful lesson on the dangers of centralization.  With nearly 10,000,000 unsalvageable gallons flowing through the streets of San Francisco, a major restructuring occurred resulting in bottles being stored more closely to the vineyards, creating what we now know as California wine country.
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Having almost ninety thousand acres dedicated to grape growing by 1920, Sacramento lawmakers understood how vital the industry was for the state’s economy.  It was no surprise then that Californians defeated four separate ballot initiatives to enact statewide prohibition prior to the Volstead Act.  With nearly seventy-five million dollars a year at stake and large Irish and Italian populations in San Francisco that were passionate about wine, those favoring temperance were never able to achieve much success in the Golden State – that is until the forces from Washington DC stepped in.
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Looking at back the many flaws of prohibition, one specific loophole that made millionaires overnight was a provision allowing each household to produce two hundred gallons of fermented fruit juice per year.  Suddenly, thirsty Americans everywhere became amateur winemakers eager to reap in huge profits by selling their surplus around the neighborhood.  All they needed now was a steady supply of grapes.

“Grapes are so valuable this year that they are being stolen,” wrote the St. Helena Star.  A new kind of gold rush had started in California as one acre of vineyard land shot up from $100 to $500 by 1921.  A year before Prohibition, 9,300 carloads of grapes traveled from California to New York.  By 1928, that figure had more than tripled.
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Unfortunately for the profiteers, Zinfandel and Chardonnay grapes didn’t travel well in freight cars across the country.  But with prices going through the roof, a new source that could maximize value was desperately needed.  And that source went by the name Alicante Bouschet, a grape that made for inferior wine with one novelist ranking it somewhere below the gooseberry.  However, it had numerous advantages that made it perfect for the lucrative east coast markets.

For starters, unlike other varietals, Alicante grew in abundance. And its thick, durable skin guaranteed that it could withstand the long train ride east.  On top of that, its dark red texture – even after three pressings and numerous dilutions made it look deceptively decent to all the novice winemakers and drinkers sprouting up across the country.

So throughout California, Alicante became the new fool’s gold as growers and traders cashed in on this new miracle grape.  Quantity trumped quality as generations of experienced vintners looked on in disgust as their craft was being tarnished for the almighty dollar.
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Prohibition may have ended in 1933 but the thirteen year absence of experienced winemakers cultivating the land would leave a terrible impact across the state.  And as the Alicante bubble burst, California’s reputation as a promising wine region went up in smoke.  During the postwar period, the state became infamous for producing cheap fortified blends that were the preferred choice of winos looking for nothing more than a quick buzz. 

How bad did it get?  By 1964, the tonnage of Chardonnay grapes in California was so miniscule that the state’s Agricultural Service didn’t even bother tracking it.  That’s because for many years, high-alcohol jug wines were the staple of an industry that had hit rock bottom.
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In beginning to turn the corner, the University of California at Davis started researching the terroir throughout the state in order to determine the best grapes to plant.  The report, issued in 1944 concluded that Napa Valley, which shared a similar temperature to Bordeaux, was the ideal spot to grow Cabernet Sauvignon while Sonoma should focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Titled “Composition and Quality of Musts and Wines of California Grapes,” this study would lay the groundwork for a wine making renaissance in the Golden State.

Putting this document into action, the early 1960s saw a whole new generation of amateur winemakers arrive with the goal of producing award winning vintages.  And within a decade, all their hard work would pay off as the quality improved dramatically.  The proof came in 1976 when California defeated France at a blind tasting held in Paris, an event that was later the subject in the 2008 motion picture “Bottle Shock.” 

With branches in Los Angeles, Laguna Beach, Chula Vista, La Jolla & Pasadena, the International Wine & Food Society has a strong presence across California.

Sources:

MacNeil, Karen. The Wine Bible. New York: Workman Publishing Company, 2000.
Okrent, Daniel. Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition. New York: Scribner, 2011.
Taber, George. Judgement of Paris: California vs. France and the historic 1976 Paris tasting that revolutionized wine. New York: Scribner, 2005.

California Digital Newspaper Collection.
Library of Congress Prints & Photographs Online Catalog.
Online Archive of California.
Florida Memory Project.

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By Phillip Capper (originally posted to Flickr as Jura, France 1987) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

The new book through Kickstarter by Wink Lorch on Jura Wines is stimulating interest in this region. The recent tasting of Top Drop had Sedimentary Wines pouring old bottles including 1945 Chateau Chalon (100% Savagnin with flor), Cotes de Jura blanc (chardonnay) back to 1888, and Cotes de Jura rouge (a blend of pinot noir, trousseau, and poulsard) back to 1915. Good to see such old wines being released from the producer’s cellars directly into the marketplace. Check out Caves Jean Bourdy since 1475 and other top producers. Also follow jurawine.co.uk. Magical pairing is with escargot and garlic just like they do it in the Jura! Try it.

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