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St. Pierre and Miquelon: The original gangster’s paradise

February 20th, 2015 by Joseph Temple

St. Pierre and Miquelon during prohibition
By Marc A. Cormier – www.st-pierre-et-miquelon.com [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

By Joseph Temple

Given to France as a consolation prize following her defeat on the Plains of Abraham, few could imagine that St. Pierre and Miquelon—a string of tiny islands near the coast of Newfoundland—would turn into some of the most valuable real estate on earth during the 1920s and early 1930s.  That’s because once the United States enacted the flawed policies of prohibition, this territory of ninety-three square miles instantly morphed into a lucrative hub for smuggling liquor into North America.  For nearly thirteen years its small and remote population experienced a period of unprecedented economic prosperity supplying alcohol to their dry neighbors.  And chances are that if you or anyone you knew drank wine, champagne or hard liquor during that time, it probably passed through this little-known gangster’s paradise.

Looking at a map, France’s smallest colony was a dream come true for both bootleggers and suppliers.  Situated just fifteen miles off Canadian shores and only a short distance from the largest Rum Row that supplied the American northeast, St. Pierre and Miquelon had a distinct geographical advantage. But more importantly, it was French law that governed the islands, making it legal to drink, produce, store and transport everything from Bordeaux to Bourbon on this strategic outpost.  So when the Volstead Act took effect on January 1, 1920, these beneficial laws began attracting the attention of everyone from Samuel Bronfman to Al Capone.

In addition to French wine exports already arriving on the islands, distillers of Canadian whiskey determined to sell their product south of the 49th parallel quickly turned this archipelago into their own personal fiefdom.  Already enticed by its deep-water ports that allowed boats to dock year round, the clear financial benefits made it an easy decision for these liquor kingpins.  Charging a mere four-cents-per-bottle as an import tax, it was less than one-tenth of its biggest offshore competitor, the Bahamas.  On top of that was the ease in acquiring international landing certificates required by Ottawa in order to be exempt from paying duty on exported liquor.  Historian Daniel Okrent writes, “St. Pierre lay just fifteen miles off Canadian sores, but for duty purposes it was as foreign as the Congo.  No longer did Canadian distillers have to supply their agents in Havana and other distant ports with wads of cash required by local officials before they would stamp fake landing certificates.”

Map of St. Pierre & Miquelon
A map of Atlantic Canada from the 1700s showing St. Pierre & Miquelon.

Almost overnight, the entire colony experienced prosperity like never before as a prime liquor hub for much of North America.  The French government spent close to 20 million francs to improve its harbor and storage facilities, which were now accommodating a thousand ships each year.  Despite its low import duties, income from customs alone was three times the operating budget of St. Pierre & Miquelon before prohibition.  Gangsters in pinstriped suits and fedora hats could be seen wandering around L’Hotel Robert, including Al Capone who was rumored to have a private residence on the island.   And with more than two million gallons of Canadian whiskey being exported in just one year, a branch of the Canadian Bank of Imperial Commerce was established on the territory.  Considering the Dominion was doing more business there than they were with Argentina, Australia, Ireland or China, it wasn’t a bad decision at all.

Of course, getting the alcohol to St. Pierre was the easy part.  Illegally exporting it to the United States was the dangerous job left to rum runners who risked arrest and seizures if caught by American customs officers.   One famous bootlegger who visited St. Pierre and Miquelon frequently was Bill McCoy (a.k.a. The Real McCoy) who battled not only high-speed pursuit boats but also potential hijackers once his ship, the Sable Island departed for the east coast.  Thankfully helping him and others every step of the way were locals armed with secret radio transmissions and years of experience navigating vessels.  After all, it was their financial futures that lay in getting as many bottles as possible to U.S. soil.

Prohibition and St. Pierre & Miquelon islandsLocals and rum runners loading a ship with what appears to be wine on St. Pierre.

For the more than three thousand people who lived on the islands, the rising economic tide was lifting all boats.  Despite a massive construction boom, the storage facilities were still inadequate, causing liquor companies to pay private homeowners for use of their basements to stockpile nearly four million bottles of either champagne or whiskey at any given time.  The liquor trade was so profitable that most residents who had previously made a living as fishermen were now either living off the easy money or making even more by transporting the alcohol along with the likes of McCoy and the other bootleggers.  But it wasn’t like they had any choice—the refrigeration plants used to store fish had been converted into liquor warehouses.

Unfortunately, what goes up must eventually come down.

Just as the economic miracle of St. Pierre & Miquelon rose to new heights with the enactment of prohibition, it would burst even more quickly after repeal of the Eighteenth Amendment in 1933.  With America reverting back to a wet nation, the demand dried up almost overnight on the islands, causing a massive depression that was to be felt for years to come as both gangsters and Canadian bankers left for greener pastures.  Even today, despite a more diversified economy coming from tourism and oil and gas exploration, the archipelago hasn’t experienced a boom like they did during those thirteen years. Never again would St. Pierre according to Canadian historian Peter C. Newman be “buried in an avalanche of freight, pungent with the smell of superior liquor … so strong that at times the fog that rolled up St. Pierre’s steeply inclined streets with the nightly tides would carry a distinct Scotch flavour.”

Sources:

Anglin, Douglas G. The St. Pierre and Miquelon “Affaire” of 1941: A Study in Diplomacy in the North Atlantic Quadrangle. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1966.
Hunt, C.W. Booze, Boats & Billions: Smuggling Liquid Gold. Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1988.
Okrent, Daniel. Last Call: The Rise and Fall of Prohibition. New York: Scribner, 2011.
Schneider, Stephen. Iced: The Story of Organized Crime in Canada. New York: John Wiley & Sons, 2009.


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Ask Sid: Gas or Charcoal BBQ?

February 18th, 2015 by Joseph Temple
Ask your question here The International Wine & Food Society

Charcoal or gas barbecue

Question: Never too early for BBQ season. Do you prefer using gas or charcoal?

Answer: I prefer charcoal but this always is a hot issue open to much debate. Convenience is a big factor in support for gas. Instant ready to go heat is useful and the clean-up is so easy.

I like the taste better from charcoal as you get real smoke that adds complexity to so many dishes. Even vegetables and fruits like asparagus, corn, burnt beets, peaches, and radicchio seem to combine a unique bitter sweetness after their time spent on a charcoal grill. However, many restaurants use gas to prepare your seared steak. Depends on what you are used to and what you personally like. Some even use a wood burning grill which gets my very highest recommendation. Recall so many memorable dishes by the artistic Argentine Chef Francis Mallmann where you can smell the special woods burning as they cook your delicious food. This is the best BBQ experience!


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10 of the best Aphrodisiac Foods!

February 13th, 2015 by Joseph Temple

love, sex and food
By Joseph Temple

Valentine’s Day is tomorrow!  So if you’re looking for a dish to prepare at home or an item to order at a restaurant while you’re on a date with that special someone, try one of these ten ideas. Bon Appetit!
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sensual foods
1. Crab & Lobster

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Chocolate
2. Chocolate

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sensual foods
3. Strawberries

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sensual foods
By Alpha (Flickr) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

4. Oysters

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sensual foods
5. Pomegranates

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sensual foods
6. Bananas

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Salmon Avocado
7. Salmon & Avocado

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Figs
8. Figs

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sensual foods
9. Hot Chili Peppers

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sensual foods
By Caviar_spoons.jpg: THORderivative work: Saibo (Δ) (Caviar_spoons.jpg) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

10. Caviar

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Ask Sid: New European Wine Classifications

February 11th, 2015 by Joseph Temple
Ask your question here The International Wine & Food Society

Ask Sid Cross

Question: For the first time I have seen a new French appellation marking: protegee. The actual appellation mentioned on the label said “Appellation Saint Joseph protegee”. What can you tell us about this new marking?  Why does it say protected all of a sudden?

Answer: Good timely question. You will be seeing more of this on the labels of the new wines arriving at your local wine shop. Most of us are familiar with the wine appellation systems in France for specific locations defining where the grapes are grown and the wine is produced. Starting with 2012 the European Union has intervened and these systems are now revised. For example there is no longer any wines labelled VDQS. There now are 3 main categories:

1.      VIN DE FRANCE Basic wines formerly called Vin de Table. Quite a general name lacking any specific location but enticing to use because easier to comply with than the stricter regulations of the 2 higher categories. May find more wineries using this including the new natural wines. We should all encourage more information on the back label from the wineries to help the consumer understand where the wine grapes are actually grown.

2.      INDICATION GEOGRAPHIQUE PROTEGEE (IGP) Basically replacing the former Vin de Pays (“country wine”) such as the old Vin de Pays d’Oc from Languedoc-Roussillon and the like.

3.      APPELLATION D’ORIGINE PROTEGEE (AOP) These are the very top wines starting in 2012 such as your Saint Joseph Syrah from the Northern Rhone which are protected (protegee) and basically replacing the former Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) designation.


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Big Easy Cuisine: a look at 5 classic dishes from New Orleans

February 6th, 2015 by Joseph Temple

A look at 5 classic dishes from New Orleans
By Joseph Temple

One of the greatest benefits of joining the International Wine & Food Society is the opportunity to travel around the world by attending the various festivals held throughout the year.  Since 2012, members have cruised down the Rhône River, soaked up some sun in Puerto Vallarta and dined in style at our most recent International Festival in Vancouver, British Columbia.

And this year, things are off to a great start as we travel to the city of New Orleans for what promises to be an outstanding culinary weekend.  With images of jazz trumpets, flickering gas lamps and Cajun/Creole inspired foods, the Big Easy is world renown for both its southern hospitality and a proud gastronomic heritage that is older than the country itself.  Writing about Crescent City cuisine, legendary author Mark Twain described it “as delicious as the less criminal forms of sin.”

So for this week’s entry, have a look at four dishes and one drink that were created in the city’s most legendary restaurants, markets and bars:


Antoine's New Orleans
By Pachango (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

1. Oysters Rockefeller

No history of New Orleans cuisine is complete without a reference to Antoine’s – a cornerstone of the French Quarter since 1840.  With thirteen different dining rooms and a wine cellar that stores approximately 25,000 bottles, every foodie and oenophile needs to visit there at least once during their lifetime.

Of course, the restaurant’s most famous dish that’s often imitated but never duplicated is Oysters Rockefeller, created by second-generation owner Jules Alciatore in 1889.  Using a rich puree as the secret ingredient that’s been closely guarded for over a century, no one except the current ownership knows exactly what makes these Oysters taste so delicious.  Bottom line: you haven’t tried them until you eat there.

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New Orleans Sicilian culinary heritageBy sailn1 (Flickr: [1]) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

2. Muffuletta

Looking back at the many groups who made New Orleans into what it is today, there is no denying the impact that Sicilians have had on this city.  From St. Mary’s Church on Chartres Street to the annual festivities on St. Joseph’s Day, the fingerprints of southern Italy can be seen all over town.  But in terms of their culinary contribution, look no further than the many Italian-owned grocery stores, some of which are still in operation to this day.  In fact, due to the outstanding quality of food sold in these stores, New Orleans rejected the arrival of big-chain supermarkets for many years.

The most well-known market, which opened its doors for the first time in 1906 is Central Grocery, founded by Sicilian immigrant Salvatore Lupo.  And a big reason for its century-long success is that it can lay claim to being the spot where the famous Muffuletta sandwich was invented.  Consisting of firm-bodied Italian bread loaded with cold cuts that include mortadella and Genoa salami, provolone cheese and olive salad, this delicacy is the quintessential Crescent City dish.  So if you’re looking for that authentic NOLA experience, step back in time and experience what an old-fashioned Italian grocery was like while chowing down on this tasty sandwich.
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New Orleans po boy
3. The Po’ boy

Without question, there’s no shortage of fine-dining establishments in the city of New Orleans.  But if you’re looking for a bite to eat for lunch or some moderately priced fare, you’ll need to try the world-famous Po ’boy sandwich that is sold all over the city.

According to legend, the dish got its name during a violent streetcar strike in 1929, when a sympathetic sandwich shop owner fed striking rail workers or “poor boys” as he called them for free during the entire dispute.  Since then, this concoction consisting of French bread filled with either gravy soaked roast beef or fried seafood and showered with fresh toppings has become one of the city’s most popular meals.  Whether you’re young or old, rich or poor, you’ll have to try a Po ’boy when you’re in New Orleans.

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New Orleans dessert
By Kimberly Vardeman (Flickr: Brennan’s Bananas Foster Flambé) [
CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons
By vxla [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

4. Bananas Foster

Somebody once said that dessert is the whole point of a meal.  And there’s no dessert that’s more synonymous with New Orleans than Bananas Foster.  Created at Brennan’s in 1951 when the restaurant was on Bourbon Street, this is a simple, but satisfying dish of ice cream covered with bananas cooked in a rich brown sugar sauce.  Of course, what makes this dessert a memorable experience is when your server pours rum over this rich dish table side and lights it on fire!

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Pat O'Brien's New Orleans drink
By Gary J. Wood (Flickr: Pat O’Brien’s Courtyard) [CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

5. The Hurricane

From the Grasshopper to the Ramos Gin Fizz, there are many memorable beverages that were born in the bars of the Big Easy  But no signature drink is more recognizable and timeless than the Hurricane and its distinct vase-shaped glass.  Created at Pat O’Brien’s, known today as the “the Mount Rushmore of bars” in the mid-1940s, the former speakeasy owner stumbled upon something incredible when he decided to unload his rum – an unpopular spirit at the time – by mixing it with fresh lemon juice, passion fruit syrup and crushed ice. Selling it in what has become known as the Hurricane glass, this libation went on to be one of America’s most popular cocktails that extends well beyond the boundaries of the French Quarter.
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Sources:

Besh, John. My New Orleans: The Cookbook. Kansas City: Andrews McMeel Books, 2009.
Maruzzi, Peter. Classic Dining: Discovering Americas’ finest mid-century restaurants. Layton: Gibbs Smith, 2012.
Murphy, Michael. Eat Dat New Orleans: A guide to the unique food culture of the Crescent City. New York: Countryman Press, 2014.
Stern, Jane & Michael. Roadfood Sandwiches: Recipes and Lore from Our Favorite Shops Coast to Coast. New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 2007.


Since 1935, The International Wine & Food Society has had a branch in the city of New Orleans – one of the very first branches founded in North America by André Simon.


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The object of the Society is to bring together and serve all who believe that a right understanding of good food and wine is an essential part of personal contentment and health and that an intelligent approach to the pleasures and problems of the table offers far greater rewards than the mere satisfaction of appetite.
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