The Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin held their annual Vancouver Induction dinner on October 1, 2024 at Five Sails restaurant. Dr. Christine Collinson is the incoming Grande Senechale succeeding George Laverock. Colourful ceremony with special visiting guests Dr. Brendan and Christine Quinn Grand Pilier General from Ottawa presiding.
The evening started off well with Vazart-Coquart Champagne Blanc de Blancs Reserve Grand Cru (mainly 2017 plus reserves going back to 1982 from their Reserve Perpetuelle) showing the classy terroir of Chouilly chardonnay fruit paired with local Kisu plump oysters and remarkably delicious arancini of Dungeness Crab with Yuzu.
The whites spotlighted an educational focus on Chablis Premier Cru with two stellar vintages of intense minerally 2010 and bright acidity 2014. All three 2010 were from the ancient estate of Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix using batonnage (stirring settled lees back into the wine) methods for creamy balance. The 2014 was Domaine Daniel Dampt showing Les Vaillons to compare this same vineyard with a 2010. Cote de Lechet is grown on a very steep slope of the Left Bank of the River Serein with richer mature styling while Les Lys lighter but much fresher and lively. The 2010 Vaillon was spicier with the 2014 more vibrant. These Kimmeridgien marl top vintages paired well with the first two seafood courses.
An old fav organic Domaine Pavelot (always recommending their La Dominode here the 2010 on January 4, 2016) of Jean-Marc et Hugues in Savigny-Les-Beaune Aux Guettes of classic 2005 and warmer riper 2009 quite stony with a lot of clay vineyard at 300 metres with 12 months en barrique (25% new). The 2005 was quite a bit lighter bodied having less mineral fruit left than the young firm impressive rich full bodied 2009. Both perfectly matched to the innovative duck course.
A big step up to the Grand Cru complexity level with two Cortons paired with lamb. The classic vintage 2010 from top producer Lucien Le Moine with Renardes has a beautiful ripe cherries nose and outstanding depth of flavours that opened more with swirling and airing. Would have benefited by decanting- as all LLM deserve. Renardes often has some Petrichor notes (defined here on Ask Sid May 12, 2021) of earthy rain on gardens or drier soils but bigger intense fruit hides any in 2010. The younger important cellaring 2015 Vintage of Rognet is east and lower down from Renardes in Ladoix with the top third allowing white Corton-Charlemagne (Faiveley). The producer improving Domaine Michel Mallard has the largest vineyard holding here and is using 50% whole clusters in the fermentation with more new oak. One to watch.
Nice treat to check out how these wines from only outstanding vintages are developing!
You might also like:
 |
 |
 |