Many vertical wine tastings have been reported here but fewer opportunities arise for a horizontal focus on just one vintage from several properties. A wonderful dinner event #121 by the Vancouver Group of Eight on April 30, 2024 at Blue Water Cafe did just that with eight Left Bank top classified Bordeaux Chateaux to compare from 1985 – now nearing 40 years of age. The 1985 Vintage started off with some of the coldest temperatures (-15C in January) since the infamous 1956 Bordeaux frosts with rainy cooler weather to follow until a hot July, cool but dry August and hot sunny dry September/October. Harvest at the end of September generally favoured mature ripe Merlot (and the Right Bank) but those that patiently waited till mid-October or so brought in better Cab Sauv & Cab Franc. The wines showed early charm and roundness with less weight (than the following 1986) with comparisons being made with 1959 & 1953.
This pleasurable evening commenced comparing two young outstanding 2012 LOUIS ROEDERER Champagnes – the CRISTAL Brut & CRISTAL Brut ROSE. Both were fresh with the Rose showing more vibrant explosive bubbles plus even more Pinot Noir weight & earlier flavour interest. The Cristal Brut shows a somewhat reluctant pure bouquet but has noble “dynamic effervescence” with power just needing some time to develop that renown delicate hazelnut creaminess. Liked the House description for the Rose as “the elegance of a Degas ballerina” which was shown aptly by both bubbles. Historic 1876 transparent lead crystal flat bottom bottles with gold wrapping come in impressive packaging but the contents are to be greatly admired too.
The eight Left Bank 1985 wines followed in two flights:
1985 CHÂTEAU SAINT-PIERRE: Underrated Domaines Henri Martin of Chateau Gloria is the first of 4 St. Juliens to compare in this flight. Lighter mature forward spice is charming in a more rustic way. Ready.
1985 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE BARTON: Darker with clean fruit (no property signature “iodine” here) is supple and silky mellow. First one solely made by Anthony Barton (after his uncle Ronald). Presently on a lovely plateau of enjoyment. No rush.
1985 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE: Mid-colour paler edge. Less Cabernet Sauvignon here than the other St. Juliens but the crop seems stretched without the concentrated depth of their outstanding vintages in 1986 and 1982.
1985 CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU: Textbook St. Julien with graphite, cedar, and black currant fruit. Makes a statement confirming the amazing balanced longevity of top Bordeaux even in the less powerful years. Perhaps it could have more complexity and length but is so delicious. Clear impressive winner of this first flight.
1985 CHATEAU LYNCH BAGES: Lighter weight than expected from this excellent Pauillac property plus this bottle has as touch of brett. More in an elegant softer minty style than the usual cigar box cedar. Have enjoyed better bottles of this 1985. OK
1985 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES: A fifth St. Julien tasted that is darkest with by far the most impressive structured concentration of lead pencil fruit. So classy with harmonious charm. Will develop even further complexity and roundness. Wow! Wine of the night.
1985 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Quite a bit lighter than expected. Admire the balance of this herbal elegant charming First Growth Pauillac. Opened exquisitely with more subtle perfumes on the bouquet in the glass but needs more fruit intensity. Approachable now. Nothing similar to their outstandingly complex 1959 or 1953.
1985 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Clear brilliant look with no fine sediment from decanting. Seductive bouquet with bright elegant satiny blend (including Cab Franc & Petit Verdot) but seems to be missing the big Cab Sauv intensity fruit statement of 2005, 2009, and 2010. Their First Growth website states 1985 as “always been very pleasant to drink” and “first struck by the delicacy and charm of the particularly round and silky tannins”. Well summed up as “is one of our most appealing vintages and it seems to be at its peak”. Prefer the higher potential of the austere powerful 1986. Enjoy 1985 now and in the near future.
Finished up with the ready 1982 CHATEAU SUDUIRAUT which is rich sweet apricot & yuzu marmalade without botrytis but a beautiful late harvest Sauternes for using now with a tasty honey quince crepe or other dessert.
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