On March 17, IWFS Vancouver held a ten-year look at the highly rated 2015 Bordeaux vintage at the Culinary Commons newly opened by The Chefs’ Table Society of BC. A wonderful emerging space for the hospitality industry that has already assembled one of the largest cookbook collections. Your scribe conducted a wine tasting for the members, featuring nine chateaux for a detailed look at the 2015 vintage. We were also treated to a remarkable food sampling of nine different, tasty items presented in a colourful Bento Box prepared by talented sommelier/chef Van Doren Chan. Such diverse works of art from special abalone imported from Hong Kong, perfectly cooked duck breast, and exotic mushrooms, to shiro negi (Japanese leek) custard tart. All so delicious. Congrats! Many thanks.
The weather in Bordeaux from April to the end of July 2015 was very dry and hot resulting in smaller grapes with thick skins followed by a wetter August & cooler September. Accordingly, the 2015 vintage was initially released with optimistic recommendations also helped by four lesser years from 2011-2014. However, the following 2016 vintage rivalled or exceeded 2015 by also having density with better structure and balanced acidity. Interesting comparison of those two vintages. The 2015 vintage is variable, favouring the Margaux & Pessac-Léognan regions (like in 1983) because of more late-season rains in the upper Medoc. Alcohol levels range from 12.5–13% in the Medoc to 15–15.5% (Troplong Mondot) on the Right Bank. Here are some comments from my longer presentation, plus the tasting order based on the initial local purchase price:
2015 CHATEAU LE ROUDIER BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR $28.85: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc from 25 hectares of Patrick Chevrier in Maransin near St. Emilion. Good clay soils for the Merlot, but needing more 2015 fruit intensity. At 13% ABV, it’s a bit thin and dry, but it would show much better paired with food, reflecting its refreshing Bordeaux styling. Value.
2015 CHATEAU FRANC LE MAINE ST. EMILION GRAND CRU $51.85: 61M/35CF/4CS blend from Vignobles Philippe Bardet, sourced from over 11 hectares south of Saint-Émilion on diverse clay, sand, & gravel soils with lower yields of 39 hl/ha. Dozens of properties use “Franc” in their name but the best one is Chateau Franc-Mayne so this Franc Le Maine is particularly confusing. Aged in barrels for 14-18 months, featuring 50% new oak, resulting in a darker, 14.5% ABV fruit-forward profile. Shows spicy red figgy fruit with underlying floral leafy herbal notes – very St. Emilion styled.
2015 CHATEAU HAUT BERGEY PESSAC-LEOGNAN $57.60: 47M/36CS/10Petit Verdot/7CF certified biodynamic grown on 42 hectares, mostly gravel in the heart of Leognan village near Domaine de Chevalier. Sylviane Garlin-Cathiard (sister of Daniel Cathiard & Florence who bought Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte in 1990; Daniel died this year) bought the property in 1991 though this 2015 is the first one produced by her brother Paul Garcin. Certified organic in 2017. Plush ripe cherries and spicy plums at 13.5% ABV with rounder, earthy, smoky complexity. Drinking on a lovely approachable plateau.
2015 CHATEAU BROWN PESSAC-LEOGNAN $63.35: 55CS/43M/2PV from the Mau family (previously negociants) who bought this property in 2004 and is ever on the improve with much vine replanting at higher density and natural trees environment plus consultant Stephane Derenoncourt. Bright and stylish with sweet fruit, tobacco, and notes of pepper/cinnamon all nicely structured at 14% ABV. No rush.
2015 LES FIEFS DE LAGRANGE ST. JULIEN $ 69.10: 55CS/41M/4PV is the second wine of Suntory’s Third Growth property, Château Lagrange since 1983. Lighter and more forwardly supple soft with some classy St. Julien terroir. The Grand Vin has more Cab Sauv for riper concentrated cassis complexity. However, this vintage of Les Fiefs has some greener herbal notes from younger vines and less-phenolic ripeness in the grapes. Enjoy it now.
2015 CHATEAU POTENSAC NORTH MEDOC $69.10: 45M/38CS/17CF from this remarkably consistent Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, near Chateau Sociando-Malet, above St. Estèphe, made by the Delon Family team of Chateau Leoville Las Cases. A favorite of ours dating back to the seventies. Older vines and smart strict selection (only 55% used with 45% in La Chapelle de Potensac) work so well here. Admire the amazing quality level every year. Rich solid black currant intensity at 13.5% ABV, with lead pencil, graphite, and complexity. So juicy and delicious. Yes please!
2015 CHATEAU OLIVIER PESSAC-LEOGNAN $74.85: 58CS/40M/2PV from this historic impressive property dating back to the 12th century. Until recently, they were known more for their white Bordeaux. Improved bigger reds from lower yields show more depth and harmony from Famille Bethmann and Laurent Lebrun. However this vintage is almost too much at 14.5% ABV, featuring a thick, extracted, stewed, concentrated blend. Interesting, but perhaps it lacks finesse in not showing the elegant terroir to its best advantage. Still a Chateau on the move and one to watch for excellent current vintages like 2022.
2015 CHATEAU PIBRAN PAUILLAC $80.60: 50M/50CS vinified by the AXA team at Chateau Pichon Baron. Fall rains were not in favour of Pauillac & St. Estèphe, but top quality control worked well here. Mid weight at 13.5% ABV with classic cedar, cassis, and tobacco notes. Admire the purity, elegance, and charm, integrated with acid and tannins, using 50% new oak.
2015 CHATEAU MARQUIS DE TERME MARGAUX $103.60: 60CS/33M/7PV from another old 15th-century site, now a 40 hectare Fourth Growth from 1855. A complete modern renovation occurred in 2009 (with a restaurant added in 2018); the property started its organic process in 2013 and achieved certification in 2017. This vintage 2015 suffered delayed bud burst due to water stress, followed by a shutdown during veraison before welcome August rains unblocked the process. Experimenting with egg-shaped 600-liter concrete vats for additional minerality. This wine is sensational, offering a complex bouquet that includes licorice, sweet floral perfume, luscious palate density, and Margaux terroir finesse. Probably the best Marquis de Terme ever made. Clearly Wine of the Night!
You might also like:
 |
 |
 |