We hosted a dinner party on July 19 with an educational wine tasting of three red wines just before and with the main course of duck leg confit. Big fans of those classy 2005 Bordeaux reds with that attractive structured concentration of fruit with firm tannins. The vintage conditions were favourable with warm dry days and cooler nights helping to preserve balanced acidity. Many classified growths now are starting to show their wonderful quality classic style on an early plateau of outstanding pleasure. Some of the Cru Bourgeois are drinking beautifully now. Wanted to serve the underrated Chateau Cambon La Pelouse Haut-Médoc 2005 but decided to compare it with two other 2005 reds made in a Bordeaux like style but from elsewhere all at 20 years of age. Picked a Napa Cab and a BC Okanagan Meritage for the comparison. Your scribe as host knew the wines and the order but the guests didn’t and tasted them initially double blind. All thought they were perfect pairings with the duck course.
Here are the three red wines of 2005 and some brief impressions:
2005 MERRYVALE CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA VALLEY 2005 started off wet but was an excellent vintage also in Napa not overly hot but with cooler conditions. This winery in St. Helena from long time owners the Schlatter family produces wines in a classic style. Visited their tasting room several times and appreciated the use of quality grapes from key vineyards in Carneros, Yountville, and St. Helena resulting in this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine. They use native yeast fermentation, extended maceration on the skins with 18 months in French oak barrels (32% new) with quarterly racking. Nice dry-sweetness. At 14.5 abv it shows rich ripe intense black olives and menthol notes in a smooth mouthfeel. A very Cab Sauv focus showing that Napa style. Popular.
2005 CHÂTEAU CAMBON LA PELOUSE HAUT-MÉDOC CRU BOURGEOIS SUPÉRIEUR Left Bank property in the Macau commune well situated near Chateau Cantemerle & Giscours. This blend of 50/30/18/2 of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot used 50% new oak and was impressive on release. Less alcohol at 13.5 with that remarkable Bordeaux ageability. Shows a wonderful developed charming bouquet but is so much softer now yet still fresh with finesse & elegance. Most complexity and length. Beautiful delicious drinking.
2005 BURROWING OWL ESTATE WINERY MERITAGE ESTATE BOTTLED Family owned winery in south Okanagan at Oliver BC Canada by the Wyse family who always produced fine balanced wines with ageability. This blend at 14. 4 abv is mainly Merlot 64% with Cab Franc 25, Cab Sauv 10, and tiny amounts of Malbec & Petit Verdot for 1455 cases. Renowned reviewer John Schreiner in 2008 for Appellation America noted 2005 “small fruit set due to rain at flowering …reduced yields naturally.” His comments at that time were “It is a wonderfully rich wine, beginning with aromas of vanilla, chocolate and cassis. Palate flavours plum cassis & touch of spice (cloves). The long ripe tannins contribute to the wine’s appealing texture. There is elegance and balance here, with a drink-now accessibility but enough firmness for several years of cellaring.” Today it surprises with mellow round attractive supple textures full of life. Definitely in this ball game. It has a rather distinctive unique character of blackberry blueberry earthy sweet spice notes from those deep sandy soils. Well done. From a global perspective top quality wine from many key regions even at 20 years of age can really surprise you.
This insightful friendly tasting made for an interesting social evening over dinner. Put your own themed wine grouping together for a similar fun function. Enjoy.
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