Hard to believe that the heralded Bordeaux vintage of 2010 is nearing 15 years of age. Time flies. An excellent twin year with 2009 but quite different in style. The 2009s have very high sugar concentrations from nearly 3 times the sunlight hours in June resulting in ripe opulent voluptuous wines compared to the more elegant slower ripening yet balanced classic 2010s.
The members of Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver were fortunate to have a visit by Jean-Marc Dulong Grand Maitre Grand Conseil Vins Bordeaux for a tasting/dinner featuring the 2010s at Blue Water Cafe on March 10, 2025. It was the last stop on his two week tour starting in Miami and much appreciated by the local chapters he visited. In the old days we had visiting winery principals from Bordeaux on a regular basis promoting not only their own property but generally the majestic wines of Bordeaux. Remember first Henri Martin of Chateau Gloria, Jean-Michel Cazes of Lynch-Bages, Peter Allan Sichel of Palmer, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing of Pichon Lalande, Bruno Prats of Cos d’Estournel, Philippine de Rothschild of Mouton, Corinne Mentzelopoulos of Margaux and many others. They all did a brilliant job of explaining the glorious wines of Bordeaux. We all miss their special individual educational visits.
Jean-Marc Dulong the sixth generation (since 1873) of his family in 2018 took over CHATEAU BASTOR-LAMONTAGNE in Preignac Sauternes a neighbour of nearby Chateau Suduiraut. We finished our evening with the lovely 2019 vinified in their fresh fruity modern “value for money” way that “can be enjoyed on any occasion”. We appreciated Jean-Marc’s interesting comments not only on his Sauternes but valuable insightful information on Bordeaux wines in general. Many thanks and we hope for more Bordeaux winery visitors in the future.
The aperitif was LOUIS ROEDERER COLLECTION 244 BRUT CHAMPAGNE. Found it to be fuller richer and more balanced than the softer 243. The two week later harvest September 10-21 of 2019 (54%) worked to advantage. The cuvee of 41% chardonnay, 33 pinot noir & 26 pinot meunier fermented 5% in wood plus the addition of 36% Perpetual Reserve (2012-2018) and 10% Reserve Aged in Oak (2012-2018) has a sweeter 7 g/l dosage but all works well together with an excellent texture.
2020 CHATEAU DE FIEUZAL BLANC, PESSAC-LEOGNAN: Shows full ripe roundness yet with balanced herbal citric acidity of 75% Sauvignon Blanc with 25 Semillon aged 12 months in French oak (40% new) and bottled at 13 abv under Diam 30 closure. Enjoyable at fair value.
2020 CHATEAU LARRIVET HAUT-BRION BLANC, PESSAC-LEOGNAN: Early harvest August 2 to 27 with more than usual Sauvignon Blanc at 83% plus only 17 Semillon vinified in 50% new oak, 30 wood foudres & 20 concrete eggs. A concentrated rich creamy texture more oaky white Bordeaux style with complex palate interest that can develop even further with some aging.
2010 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER, FAMILIE BERNARD, PESSAC-LEOGNAN: An interesting comparison of two Pessac-Leognan 2020 whites followed by four Pessac-Leognan 2010 reds. Successful with a real depth of primary fruit (65% Cab Sauv, 27 Merlot, 5 Petit Verdot, and 3 Cab Franc) with herbs and earthy sous-bois very classic DdC. Mary Tait called it “clean austerity yet approachable” and it was the first red flight group favourite.
2010 CHATEAU HAUT-BERGEY, SYLVIANE GARCIN, PESSAC-LEOGNAN: The first of two properties from Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard (sister of Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte) managed until 2014 by her daughter Helene Garcin-Leveque and her brother Paul Garcin starting in 2015 that became biodynamic in 2016. The 36 hectare site produces great value wine. Here vinified in stainless steel vats and aged 16 months in 50% new oak shows lighter fresh cherry fruit with noticeable oak drinking forwardly.
2010 CHATEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE, PESSAC-LEOGNAN: Since acquiring this chateau in 1990 Proprietors Florence & Daniel Cathiard have brilliantly pursued their passion for producing the highest quality wines. Near perfection here with a deep dark intense colour still somewhat closed in on the forest floor nose but with amazing intensity, power and complexity from 64CS/39M/5CF/1PV with 60% new oak at 14.5 abv. Pure “Graves” tobacco with airing showing smooth textures and wonderful supple tannins with a classic fantastic future. A real classy refined collectable and your scribe’s Wine of the Night! Congrats.
2010 CHATEAU BRANON, SYLVIANE GARCIN, PESSAC-LEOGNAN: Darkest and such concentrated ripe fruit in 100% new oak for 18 months is lush, soft and almost “sweet” at 14.5 abv. Small boutique six hectare vineyard of the Garcin family from a property on a slope situated between Malartic Lagraviere & Haut Bailly. Distinctive style.
2010 CHATEAU L’ARROSEE, SAINT-EMILION: Lighter rim with unique blend of 60 Merlot, 20 Cab Franc, and 20 Cab Sauv. End of a successful era as soon merged with Tertre Daugay (acquired in 2011) into Quintus both owned by Domaine Clarence Dillon. Consistent good balanced old fav of your scribe with memories of the exquisite 1961. Not quite enough intense fruit here but elegant at 14 abv and still judged second red flight fav in a close group vote where all four Right Bank entries received emthuisiastic support.
2010 CLOS FOURTET, SAINT-EMILION: Later harvest from end of September to third week of October for 87 Merlot, 10 CS & 3 CF at 14.5 abv. Big dark powerful wine with buckets of ripe Merlot fruit carrying well with depth through the mid-palate to the long finish. Excellent and your scribe’s fav of the second flight.
2010 CHATEAU LE GAY, POMEROL: States only 13.5 abv but delivers a wonderful aromatic full spicy statement. Vinified in new French oak but less “iron” power with edgy tannins. Mostly Merlot with a touch of Cab Franc – perhaps could benefit with more CF in the blend. Believe Pomerol was more successful in 2009 with better Merlot riper fruit concentration but a superb effort nonetheless.
2010 CHATEAU LE BON PASTEUR, POMEROL: Home for Dany & Michel Rolland with a solid 80 Merlot & 20 Cab Franc who also consults at Le Gay. Creamy chocolate texture notes are delightful in this balanced good value Pomerol. Accessible earlier.
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