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PRODUTTORI DEL BARBARESCO 2009 RISERVAS HORIZONTAL FROM A HOT VINTAGE SURPRISE AT 15 YEARS OLD

June 17th, 2024 by Joseph Temple

As followers of this Blog are already aware, your scribe is a big admirer of Nebbiolo aged wines from Piedmont. A particular favourite is the consistent quality produced by the amazing Societa Agricola Cooperativa of Produttori del Barbaresco. Several wonderful insightful visits to the winery and vineyards over the years with the master Aldo Vacca, the most recent one during the exciting October harvest of the marvellous 2019 vintage. Lots of references including recommendations to buy their Crus 2013 (value Paje) on July 18, 2018 linked here, and Crus 2016 on November 3, 2021 here.

Lots of avid collectors in this British Columbia marketplace and one of them is knowledgeable Joe Chaput (capably assisted by cheese expert Allison Spurrell of Les Amis du Fromage) who kindly organized on June 12, 2024 a Tasting & Dinner superbly spotlighting the 2009 vintage at 15 years of age.

A memorable evening included a detailed background information booklet and wines paired with an outstanding menu of thoughtfully chosen food courses to show them to best advantage. 2009 has a general reputation of being a hot accessible forward vintage showing riper fruit and lower acidities but with quality tannins. The wines showed better structure than expected and were aging more slowly. Approachable now but no rush for the Crus. Joe arranged the following tasting order recommended to him by Aldo:

2009 DOCG BLEND: Big production 240,000 bottles (mainly Ovello). Most accessible one with spicy notes. 14.5 abv.

2009 PORA: “The Dolce Vita Wine” Easy smooth and softer style. Lovely now.

2009 RIO SORDO: “The Silky One” Less open reluctant nose with some “silk” textures.

2009 ASILI: “A Word On Its Own” Consistent top vineyard especially showing impressive structured refined intense complexity in 2009. Outstanding balance. Singing with the exquisite rabbit course in EVOO.

2009 OVELLO: “The Tomboy” Energetic four square well selected grapes from largest 50 acres Cru vineyard on a drinkable plateau now.

2009 MOCCAGATTA: “Pristine Beauty” Seems lighter and less ripe with floral notes that are less common in this hotter year. Even better paired with the delicious pasta course.

2009 RABAJA: “Pure Breed” This high altitude vineyard is usually my favourite. Open but slightly disappointing in 2009 with a late picked roasted baked character to the fruit. Seems like it would have benefited by being picked earlier. Waiting on star years 2013, surprising 2014 (less rain than Barolo), 2015, and concentrated 2016.

2009 MONTESTEFANO: “The Barolo Of Barbaresco” Another fav that always gets the sun from full south facing vineyards. Full rich and heavier in 2009. Prefer much more the elegance of the classic 1996 in magnum and the outstanding potential of 2019.

2009 PAJE: “Evergreen” Small Cru vineyard of ever improving quality due to its cooler microclimate in times of global climate change. Fresh fruit is successful here and even more so in 2013.

2009 MONTEFICO: The Academic” Lesser known excellent vineyard is producing powerful tannic wines with tension that develop well with aging. Well structured with good potential here and shows it matched with the special lightly smoked Traeger BBQ Prime Rib.

Super finale with still developing classic vintage 1996 MONTESTEFANO in Magnum, 130th Anniversary CHINATO, and aged GRAPPA.


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June 17th, 2024 by Joseph Temple
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