Another interesting horizontal wine tasting/dinner spotlighting the 2009 Bordeaux vintage was held on May 27, 2024 by La Commanderie de Bordeaux at Boulevard in Vancouver. In fact all eleven wines served were from that year starting with the 2009 PHILIPPONNAT Champagne and the 2009 Chateau de RAYNE VIGNEAU Sauternes. The exquisite starting bubbles were the Grand Blanc Extra-Brut using 100% “Premiere Press”, from 100% Premiers et Grands Crus Cote des Blancs vineyards, and 100% Chardonnay. The production was 19722 bottles with 4.25 g/l dosage and this bottle disgorged in July 2019 was lovely fresh round creamy stone fruits with minerality. The Sauternes was rich but with a lighter delicacy than expected from the 20% Sauvignon Blanc in the blend and earlier picking of 80% Semillon (September 29 to October 16) showing fine balance for current use and aging.
The nine Bordeaux reds were well organized into three flights of Right Bank (two St. Emilion & one Pomerol), Pauillac (all Fifth Growths), and St. Julien (two Second Growths & a Fourth). 2009 is an extraordinary vintage and a hot twin comparison with the following more classic 2010 year. Your scribe with knowledgeable baggage was expecting 2009 to deliver ripe rich concentrated fruit with some higher alcohols but more in a softer delivery like 2003 and 1990. However, the surprise was the deep balanced intense sweet fruit on the Left Bank wines still in an impressive primary stage with a wonderful future ahead of them to develop very well indeed. It seems that at 15 years of age the top properties are under-appreciated for their exciting longevity. A few brief comments on the flights:
2009 CHATEAU L’ARROSEE: An old fav of mine with that remarkable 1961 and as recently reported on this Blog on April 8, 2024 a delightful 1962. It has disappeared as its own wine since the purchase in 2013 by Domaine Clarence Dillon and is now a part of Chateau Quintus. Here 44Merlot/28CabSauv/28CabFranc show in tasting this blend at only 13 abv in a paler rim and elegant earlier maturing example.
2009 CHATEAU MONBOUSQUET: Darkest of first flight showing the concentration possible from the low yields of overripe mostly Merlot (60% with the rest mainly Cab Franc 30/CabSauv 10) at 14.2 abv in a modern almost Napa-like powerful style. A bit rustic. Almost too much of a good jammy thing.
2009 CHATEAU LA CROIX ST. -GEORGES: Ripe powerful Pomerol of 94% Merlot/6% Cab Franc at nearly 15 abv from gravelly soils captures the opulent softness of the year with those typical iron notes terroir interest. Improved with the excellent foie gras pate course.
2009 CHATEAU GRAND PUY LACOSTE: Outstanding Pauillac property with that superb 1982 & developing 1986 was less successful in the hot 2003 vintage. However here their pure 2009 of 80% Cab Sauv is a balanced medium bodied supple elegant beauty drinking on a harmonious plateau. Delicious.
2009 CHATEAU PONTET CANET: Darkest deepest of second flight. Open nose of fresh primary cigar box cedar fruit with depth. Brilliant structure with amazing balance and tannins for the dense powerful Pauillac bio fruit hinting of complexity yet to come with further aging. Admire the future of this one. My fav.
2009 CHATEAU PEDESCLAUX: Darker than GPL. Third Pauillac is less known and less celebrated but on a big upcurve with a modern accessible attractive style using better selection. Watch out for this value from a true Pauillac terroir. Best red with a different tasty matching of Ling Cod fish but with a robust chorizo red pepper Basquaise sauce.
2009 CHATEAU GRUAUD LAROSE: Paler edge and lighter than expected but a lovely St. Julien definition. Fine wine in a floral earthy forwardly from 68CS/32M but prefer my older complex bigger more classic 1982 & 1986. Possibly better 2009 bottles out there or presently in a dumb stage. Slightly disappointing in a tough group.
2009 CHATEAU ST. PIERRE: Surprisingly dark with lots of massive spicy full fruit showing graphite. Under-appreciated property as was the 1985 reported here on May 6, 2024. Recommend this value.
2009 LEOVILLE LAS CASES: Top Second Growth St. Julien lives up again to the high reputation. Darkest look with intense colour. Powerful and very refined. More luscious supple with fine silky tannins and showing more attractively presently than the backward Pontet Canet. Both have an unlimited future. Close to a virtual tie for WOTN. PC & LLC plus charming GPL all a perfect pairing with the choice prime striploin course.
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