Château Figeac has been a good friend of your scribe for over 50 years. I first got to know it back in 1970 as a friendly neighbouring property to Chateau Montlabert (written up here on April 26, 2021) where I stayed then and on several later visits to Bordeaux. Many wonderful events were gracefully hosted by the Manoncourts at their Figeac home plus they generously contributed outstanding bottles on other occasions. A very memorable one was a dinner “Millesimes De Collection” on June 15, 1999 held at Chateau Beausejour (Heritiers Duffau Lagarrosse) where the top 12 St. Emilion properties collaborated for contributing wines starting with the 1989 vintage and going back to the 4 oldest of complex unique fruit 64 Cheval Blanc, spectacular bouquet 61 Trottevielle, browner sweet forwardly 55 La Gaffeliere and chocolate/mocha big amazing tannins of most youthful 49 Figeac at 50 years of age!
Somewhat frustrating for many that distinctive Chateau Figeac wasn’t promoted to the highest St Emilion classification of Premier Grand Cru Classe “A” until September 2022 under the new management regime headed by talented winemaker Frederic Faye. With a brand new state-of-the art cellar, more cabernet sauvignon planted, and conscientious attention to detail for pure precise wines it is well deserved now – and probably earlier.
Therefore it was with excited anticipation to attend a dinner at Forage restaurant on February 12, 2024 held by the Commanderie de Bordeaux Vancouver under the able leadership of Fred Withers for a vertical of 9 vintages served wisely from oldest to youngest. Knowledgeable Ian Mottershead provided a detailed introduction to the property from the Manoncourt family acquisition in 1892 through the history of the great Thierry Manoncourt (1917-2010).
We started off by two whites 2012 & 2010 from CHATEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE BLANC both had aged well using around 32hl/ha yield with a 90% Sauvignon Blanc, and 5% each of Sauvignon Gris & Semillon. 2012 was bigger richer and more complex with a higher 14 abv finish while 2010 was very sauvignon in a lovely lighter more elegant style at 13.5.
A few personal comments on the 9 Figeac wines:
1983 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Lovely open enticing floral bouquet made this a mature popular group choice. Showed better charm tonight than on many earlier tries (including here on October 4, 2021) where more drying “herbal dill green olives” notes. Drink.
1985 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Bottle variation. Mine has a paling rim with a touch of TCA corky too rustic. Other bottles showed better Merlot spice but disappoints in this vintage. Drink.
1986 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Much better younger red colour compared to 83 & 85. Typical lovely Figeac terroir of fresh cherries and solid structured Cabernet tannic grip impress. Excellent & should develop
further.
1989 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Dark to rim with similar depth of 86. Attractive bouquet of licorice, cloves, & Provencal herbs. Like the elegant smooth textures with sweet anise seed flav. Not that concentrated but a rich intensity. Well done. Delicious with the duck. My fav of First Flight.
1990 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Second Flight off on a fast stunning start with 1990 which is deeper red look plus touch jammy ripe figs with earthy mushrooms. Harder Cabernet tannins than 1989 but not as seductively styled. Fred’s favourite wine of the tasting!
2000 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Ten years younger with much younger impressive fruit depth. Very perfumed exotic nose of tobacco, spice and Cabernet. Refined tannins are integrated now developing more finesse elegance and complexity. Stylish. Showing magnificently on the plateau of enjoyment. Matches lamb and grilled octopus choices.
2005 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Made by Eric D’Armon using 100% new oak at 37hl/ha. Outstanding Bordeaux vintage brought big expectations for me. Not disappointed with dense classic graphite Figeac styling (showing 35% each of both Cabs & 30% Merlot) but softer yet not singing presently. Promise.
2008 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: Lower yields 29hl/ha and long 20 months in 100% new oak results in surprise of the night. Dark purple. Already rather soft & smooth. Leaner and less ripe year but much better than
expected.
2015 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC: New regime statement here. Hot year but fresh and polished. Quite supple already for the buckets of fruit. Label states 14 abv while 08 & 05 both 13.5 and earlier years at 13. Several 100 point scores for this high Cab Sauv 43%, 29% Merlot & 28% Cab Franc blend. Long cellaring future.Your scribe prefers the more balanced structure in 2016 which IMHO approaches closer to that elusive perfection. Figeac is on the right track for sure.
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