Another wonderful Burgundy dinner this month at the rather new Italian themed using fresh local produce restaurant The Farmhouse in Vancouver. Some delightful dishes prepared and served including many delicious flavours of porcini, prosciutto, parmigiano reggiano, gorgonzola, roast chicken, and spicy Spaghetti. Interesting and the courses were well paired with the wines we brought along from our Tastevin cellar. Check out the menu.
A less well known Jean Lallement Grand Cru bubbles blend from the heart of the Montagne de Reims in Verzenay (80 pinot noir & 20 chard) disgorged November 15, 2021 provided a solid aperitif beginning. Four Meursaults from 3 different Premier Cru vineyards and 4 vintages was an educational challenge. Prefer 2010 for classic intense balanced white Burgundy over the other three (2011, 2008, and 2006) but Poruzots does not finish as complex as rich yet delicate Charmes. 2011 early picked Charmes by Olivier Leflaive was fragrant elegance while 2006 from Remi Jobard-Chabloz was showing pre-mox. 2008 Bouchard Pere Gouttes d’Or had depth and length and was the delightful surprise. Less problems in serving whites correctly but an excellent job was done all at the right temperatures that impressed.
The four red Burgundies were well chosen to allow comparison between two 2007 & two 2008 vintages from two regions of Nuits St. Georges rocky Les Vaucrains 1er Cru (Dominique Laurent) and Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru (Frederic Esmonin). Both were challenging years with 2007 late picking, variable, and approachable wines while 2008 had vineyard issues as well but better intense sometimes “sappy” wines resulted. Laurent has that 200% new oak uniqueness using 100% whole stems in 07 but 50% in 08. The Mazy-Chambertins were more stylish than the NSG with 2007 ready while 2008 was much darker, deeper sweet fruit with rich full structure – clearly best red and perhaps wine of the night. At 15 years of age you don’t necessarily think that there will be a lot of sediment deposit in a wine but there certainly can be. For some reason the 2008 Mazy which needed decanting wasn’t. The result was an amazingly thick sediment (the heavier particles of which settled to the bottom of my glass) but with the finer ones still remaining throughout the wine – that would take some time to fall out. Instead of enjoying the nirvana from patiently aged top red Burgundy with those velvety silky round textures that only develop with time your scribe was left with an edgy disappointing impression. It may still be controversial – especially whether to decant red Burgundy or not – but for me please decant the standing up bottle at the last minute to develop in my glass yet showing that anticipated clear pristine complex smooth liquid texture. Maybe I am too fussy in old age but it seems a shame to not be able to appreciate one of the most important benefits of wine cellaring. Your thoughts?
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