Photo credit: davidtoutain.com

Talented chef David Toutain opened his eponymous 35 seat restaurant without tablecloths at 29 rue Surcouf in the 7thA Paris less than 5 months ago but already it is a very hot ticket. Only in his early thirties he brings an impressive resume including “premieres experiences” at Loiseau, L’Arpege, L’Ambroisie, Retour a L’Arpege, Marc Veyrat, and Mugaritz. On June 28, 2011 he opened Agape Substance his first chef de cuisine posting showing off some unique impressive exciting cuisine until leaving in December 2012. Some memorable lunch and dinner prix fixe menus there based on Themes such as Tomate, Girolle, Pigeon, Cochon, Fromage, Carotte among many. Since then David and family have been on learning “Voyages” including Singapore, Japan, Copenhagen (Geranium), San Francisco, and New York.

Like his flagship statement that “Tous les gouts sont dans La Nature”. For more background depth check out his brand new first book published March 2014 by Argol in French called La Cuisine De david toutain (with excellent photos by spouse thai toutain) third in a new Vivres serie Gestes following Pierre Gagnaire and Bertrand Grebaut of Septime.

The fixed price Printemps Menu Reine des Pres is 98 euros (or 158 with wine pairings well chosen by Alejandro) for around 10 exquisite courses (plus 3 amuse – one a sensational airy light as a feather layered sponge cake of fresh green peas and verbena). Many highlights too detailed to list here but marvelled at the well thought out progression of dishes: Oysters & kiwi cleverly matched; Potato soup & Fava Bean salad; BBQ green asparagus; Squid & White Garlic; Steamed Whiting on Pesto; Smoked Eel in Black Sesame with green apple bits; top quality remarkable whole Loin of Pork paraded raw through the full dinng room before perfectly cooked for everyone; Outstanding 48 month shaved Comte; Desserts including potato puree under fresh raspberry & pure essence of parsley sorbet. I also was impressed by the conscientious service and the decor with a feature wall of small pieces of wood intricately done – reminiscient of the walls in the new Trade & Convention Centre in Vancouver. Two small quibbles: The cringing sound similar to nails on a blackboard as I scrapped with my metal spoon for more of the yummy sauce on the sides of the distinct beautifully designed Belgian pottery used. Secondly I understand the menu will be a surprise but still most guests would appreciate reliving it with a printed take away information sheet of what they were served. I also mentioned this issue to David while he was at Agape Substance and they should follow up on this small omission to such a wonderful dinner experience.

Based on the creative dishes with delicious textured flavours I experienced in early May 2014 he is certainly well prepared for this new undertaking. This place already is better than most 1 star Michelin restaurants and in my opinion will soon be vying for Top 50 Best Restaurants in the World. Highly recommend you treat yourself on your next visit to Paris!

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(Left) President Thomas Woodrow Wilson. (Right) Wilson’s wine cellar at 2340 S St NW, Washington, DC. Photos courtesy Library of Congress. (click to enlarge)

By Joseph Temple

A great show to check out on the History Channel is 10 Thing You Don’t Know About, a documentary series that uncovers little-known facts about popular historical subjects.  And during a recent episode dealing with the topic of prohibition, viewers were given a fascinating tour of President Woodrow Wilson’s private wine cellar.  According to the historian interviewed on the program, the collection was moved directly from the White House to Wilson’s home at 2340 S Street in Washington DC as he left office in March of 1921.  But with prohibition in effect – and the transportation of alcohol illegal – the ex-president was given a special exemption by Congress to move his vast collection to what is now known as Woodrow Wilson House, a U.S. National Historic Landmark.

Reading Garrett Peck’s Prohibition in Washington D.C.: How Dry We Weren’t, the author notes that Wilson’s collection included many bottles of Champagne and Bordeaux from the 1920s which were probably given to him and his wife by Parisian diplomats working on Embassy Row in D.C. In fact, fellow Treaty of Versailles architect and former French Prime Minister Georges Clemenceau visited Wilson during his three-year stay on S Street.  Of course, being the good house guest, Clemenceau most likely brought a few bottles with him as a present for his gracious hosts!

Occupying the lowest room of the entire house, the president’s wine cellar symbolizes the many double standards of the prohibition era.  While the country’s poor risked prosecution for the mere consumption of alcohol, Wilson along with numerous manor-born politicians and wealthy elites acted as if the laws didn’t apply to them – and in most cases they didn’t.   Having a bottle in one hand and an Anti-Saloon League membership card in the other, many in Congress violated in private the policies they advocated for in public.  In fact, the reason why Wilson became so adamant in moving his collection from 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue was out of fear that his successor Warren Harding – a staunch supporter of the temperance movement — would drink it all.

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By PRA (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons
By Mick Stephenson (mixpix) based on original by Plamen Georgiev (Own work) [GFDL or CC BY 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

New Zealand Winegrowers just presented in Vancouver an excellent Master Class on “Get the Dirt on New Zealand Pinot Noir” showing 13 pinot noirs from 7 regions all served in appropriate shaped Riedel glasses. Their industry has done an admirable job now exporting 70% of wine production. Amazing when you consider that 70% of their vines are still under 12 years old. They also are to be congratulated on getting wonderful compliance from most everyone on using sustainable farming practices. World recognition for NZ Sauvignon Blanc is now quickly followed by other aromatics as well as a viable competitor for a range of pinot noirs. Also really enjoyed the fresh so drinkable Forrest “The Doctors” 2012 dry SB coming in at only 9.5 alcohol from earlier low yield pickings and fermented at quite low temperatures. The descriptive characteristics given for the pinot noir regions  in New Zealand are as follows:

(1) NELSON: “Small region of artists and artisans. Fragrant, complex, softly textured with bright cherry and plum flavours”.

(2) MARLBOROUGH: “The largest region for pinot noir. Bright red fruit, raspberries and plums. Linear structure with even tannins”.

(3) WAIPARA VALLEY: “Limestone influences in areas. Red fruit and darker plummy, sweet fruits, with hints of pepper ad spice. Firm tannins and acidity.”

(4) WAITAKI VALLEY: ” Rare wines from limestone country”. Dark fruit and minerals cut with suave acidity”.

(5) CENTRAL OTAGO: “World’s most southerly wine region. Black cherry flavours, fresh herbs. Firm.”

(6) WAIRARAPA: “Wider, younger region beyond Martinborough. Slightly more lifted cherry flavours than Martinborough, plus plum and tobacco”.

(7) MARTINBOROUGH: Oldest pinot noir region with some vines 30 years old. Fuller, supple style with plum, chocolate and meat”.

I encourage you to try more pinot noirs from New Zealand. They generally all have a bright lively acidity that matches well and improves them with food. These four dishes were served half way through the tasting and paired successfully: Tombo Tuna Tataki, Fresh Wasabi, Smoky Tentsuyu Sauce; Ginger Chicken Jiaozi Potsticker, Braised Burdock; Seared Halibut, Pata Negra Iberico Chorizo Butter; Portobello Mushroom Curry, Crispy Pakora.

Have you tried NZ pinot noir? What region?

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By Joseph Temple

Monaco’s Prince Rainier III once said that a postage stamp is “the best ambassador of a country.”  So its no surprise that many nations around the world have decided to promote their local wine making industries through philately.  From Austria to Australia and from Canada to Chile, viticulture has been the subject of numerous commemorative stamps over the years.

Below you can find a few wine themed postage stamps (in no particular order).  Is there any one stamp that catches your eye?  Have we missed anything?  Please share your comments with us and visit this link to see more wine and food stamps on our Pinterest site.

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Two outstanding events this past week focusing on getting out there and foraging for your own wild food.

1. Chef Bill Jones of Deerholme Farm (www.deerholme.com/foraging) is an expert and has been actively doing so for over 20 years. He has a best selling Mushroom book and a new just published Foraging one. His informative mycelia guide includes porcini (cepe), pine (matsutake), chanterelles (early Fall) and morels (Spring) – in fact he says there are over 20 varieties of morel. Tips on sautéing wild mushrooms, roasting, grilling, steaming, rehydrating, freezing and powdering them. Bill’s demo for his The Deerholme Foraging Book: Wild Foods & Recipes from the Pacific Northwest spotlighted the fresh morels and stinging nettles. He served a delightful welcoming tea from the leaves of the nettles – heating, drying or freezing gets rid of the sting. Useful in making a pesto instead of basil leaves or good with chickpeas for a hummus with a more attractive rich green colour. More detail and recipes: www.timescolonist.com/eric-akis-stinging-nettles-101-1.938808.

2. “Nettles, nettles, nettles!” dinner by Chef Chris Whittaker at Forage Restaurant. Every course featured wild nettles with appropriate beverages. The first course of nettle & beer soup, hop croutons and drizzled raw honey matched well to a special local beer made from nettles, a bit of hops, with mint & ginger. Second course nettle and faro risotto, Golden Ears brie, hazelnut and nettle pesto. Third course nettle-crusted line-caught fresh halibut, nettle gnudi, wild mushrooms. Fourth course dessert nettle sorbet and crispy pain perdu with quince caramel.

Foraging can be fun, economical and educational. Be careful but explore. What interesting food item have you discovered on your own local hunting adventures?

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