I like black peppercorns which seem to be rather under appreciated these days. It was Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama who discovered the Malabar Spice Coast of India back in 1498 – the birthplace of pepper. More valuable in the old days than presently black pepper was used by the rich to spice up their foods and as a possible cure for the Black Plague. Today it still is considered an energy of nature that helps cool the body temperature down as it causes perspiration and has medicinal anti-viral properties. In the Middle Ages it was as valuable as cash so that workers were not allowed to wear trousers with pockets or cuffs while on the job – just like diamonds! India was the leading producer for long time but diseases lowered crop yields substantially and newcomers like Vietnam (now the major exporter since 1999), Indonesia, Brazil. Malaysia and others are now competing.
The harvest begins with the picking of the green berries and then leaving them in the sun for several days where the pepper around the seed shrinks and darkens. Though black pepper is still cheap at the farmer source markups along the way drive the price higher on the retail market. However it is bargain. If it was called truffle they could charge a lot more. I always bring some choice black peppercorns back to Vancouver on every European trip. My favourite is Poivre Sauvage de Voatsiperifery – not cultivated but a wild jungle small black pepper with the stem attached from Madagascar. Just bought a package this month of 125 grams for only 7.60 euros. Also enjoy Poivre noir de Kampot – full grained black peppercorns from Cambodia. You haven’t really tried black pepper till you have used some of these. So fresh intense and fiery but subtle and with the best aromatics outside your most expensive bottle of mature Syrah. Some chefs prefer using invisible white pepper on their omelets but for pure ecstasy freshly ground top flight black pepper flecks is the way to go. A little goes a long way. Helps out so many food dishes.
Check out this link for some of these. The website indicates that it is currently unavailable. Also that it is rare with only 15ookg/year harvested with a shelf life of 3 years. They also have organic Kampot, Tasmanian Mountain wild pepper and other black peppers worth exploring. Have fun experimenting.
Throughout the Cold War, many of us envisioned the commander-in-chief locked away in an underground bunker, surrounded by maps, radar screens and incoming cables as a major international crisis reached the brink of disaster. However, during the Kennedy administration, while crucial events transpired across the globe, the president wasn’t always at an undisclosed location arguing with his belligerent generals. Instead, there were times when he could be found drinking some of the best wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue. Even with the option of nuclear war always on the table, the formalities and social responsibilities of being the chief executive—no matter how trivial—rarely stopped.
Special thanks to the JFK Library for providing all the photos and supporting documents for this entry!
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On the afternoon of April 17th, 1961, President Kennedy is all smiles as he dines with the Prime Minister of Greece at a White House luncheon. But as he raises his glass of 1952 Dom Pérignon (JFK’s favorite brand of Champagne), an amphibious invasion at the Bay of Pigs unfolds. Enjoying creamy Chicken LaFayette paired with Château Corton Grancey pinot noir, the president’s Greek guests are unaware that 1400 CIA-trained soldiers are struggling to gain a foothold on the beaches of Cuba while they eat. Lacking sufficient air cover, the entire operation goes down in history as an unmitigated disaster—long before the Dame Blanche ice cream and pastry dessert even arrives at JFK’s table.
(Left) President John F. Kennedy and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy with Prime Minister of Greece Konstantine Karamanlis and Amalia Karamanlis. (Middle) Table setting in the State Dining Room of the White House. (Right) Luncheon menu. (Click to enlarge all) blank
Following Kennedy’s disastrous meeting with Nikita Khruschev in Vienna, the Cold War suddenly turns red hot when a wall is constructed in order to stop East Germans from fleeing into West Berlin. With many predicting the start of World War III, Kennedy speaks to the nation on the night of July 25th, 1961, promising an increase in military spending to meet this growing threat. But hours before the historic address, a stag luncheon is held in the East Room of the White House for the Prime Minister of Nigeria. Featuring roast sirloin Monegasque, potatoes Parisienne and stuffed tomatoes, a decision is made just days earlier to switch champagnes to compliment the Pêches Melba dessert. So while the cement dries on the Berlin Wall, Perrier-Jouët English Cuvee Brut 1952 is replaced with Moet et Chandon Imperial Brut 1955.
(Left) President John F. Kennedy and Prime Minister Abubakar Balewa of Nigeria. (Middle) Tentative menu for the luncheon. (Right) Document requesting a change in the third wine selection. (Click to enlarge all) blank
The State Dinner honoring Pakistani President Muhammad Ayub Khan, a vital Cold War ally, is unique in that instead of being held at the White House, this event takes place at George Washington’s historic estate on Mount Vernon. While the president may be concerned about a Soviet nuclear attack, event planners have their own enemy to defeat – a merciless army of hundreds of mosquitos. Wreaking havoc with Chef René Verdon’s dishes, the Signal Corps rushes across the Potomac River to curb this growing threat. According to social secretary Letitia Baldrige, everything from the canopied tents to the avocado and crabmeat mimosa is doused with bug spray. Thankfully, no one becomes ill from the decadent mushroom and tomato Poulet Chasseur and Château Haut-Brion Blanc 1958 blanketed with DDT.
Above: Letitia Baldrige recalls the infamous night at Mount Vernon.
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As the Cuban Missile Crisis begins, Kennedy and his advisers consider a number of options from a naval quarantine to a full-scale invasion of the island. But on October 16th, 1962, the first of this thirteen-day calamity, the president carries on with his social calendar, giving the impression that everything is business as usual. One of these scheduled events is luncheon with Crown Prince Hasan of Libya, who, like most Americans, is completely unaware of the volatile situation in the Caribbean. Served filet of beef and French fried potatoes, ending with pistachio and orange ice cream for dessert, Kennedy is calm, cool and collected throughout the entire lunch with the Libyan Prince. However, what is missing from the final menu are the wine selections, which could be the result of either the Prince’s Muslim faith or the sobriety of the entire ordeal occurring behind the scenes.
(Left) Document from the Libyan embassy accepting the president’s invitation. (Middle) The tentative menu with the wine selections crossed out. (Right) The finalized menu. (Click to enlarge all) blank blank
Sources:
Dallek, Robert. An Unfinished Life: John F. Kennedy, 1917–1963. New York: Little, Brown and Company, 2003.
Question: I am a long time beer drinker who is now experimenting with wine. Find that I prefer the more refreshing white wines with lower alcohol levels of 10 or under which usually means riesling. Sid do you have another choice you would recommend for a change of pace?
Answer: Yes some of those exciting craft beers are strong brews with high alcohol levels topped by Samuel Adams Utopias around 28 recommended to be served in only 2 oz. servings – not that refreshing! Riesling is an excellent white wine choice. It comes in many styles and sweetness levels. Not sure whether you are drinking bone dry riesling or ones with a some residual sugar. Vinho Verde from Portugal for the summer is dry, light and easy often with a touch of effervescence. A good alternative to riesling is the focus by the New Zealand wine industry on producing “lifestyle” sauvignon blanc with lower alcohols. There are now quite a few in the market including Villa Maria and others but a favourite of mine is John Forrest who is championing this winemaking style. He also has the brilliant The Doctor’s Marlborough Riesling 2014 you might look for plus some other refreshing varietals. Check out their website at www.forrest.co.nz
(L-R) Serena Sutcliffe, Ambassador Ron Weiser, Jean-Michel Cazes, Sid Cross.
Attended this month a memorable celebration lunch in Bordeaux at Chateau Lynch Bages hosted by respected collector Ambassador Ron Weiser. Actually there were really 2 Ambassadors present as legend Jean-Michel Cazes not only has established his property for producing outstanding wine with quality for value far above the 5th growth status given in 1855 but has been an Ambassador for all Bordeaux wines. Following in the footsteps of first Henri Martin of Chateau Gloria and joined in by Bruno Prats of Cos d’Estournel, May de Lencquesaing of Pichon Lalande, and others Jean-Michel travelled to North America on so many occasions tirelessly not only spreading the word on his properties but spotlighting the high quality of everyone else’s claret. Enjoyed reminiscing with him about this important mission of his including 2 historic tastings held in 1986 of 52 different Bordeaux properties from 1961 in Miami on February 1 and 26 more from 1945 in LA on February 14 at which only he, myself and Michael Broadbent were in attendance for both events. More details are set out in my IWFS Monograph An Appreciation Of The Age Of Wine. Lynch Bages as expected showed so well in both those outstanding vintages. Now at age 80 JMC continues his valuable involvement and the property for the 2015 vintage will start a first “Winegrid” technology for their special white wine using a micro-computer in the barrel monitoring all the stats including colour, temperature, alcohol levels etc. Like combining the respect for history but the innovative use of progressive ideas as well.
At the lunch 3 of their more recent celebrated vintages were served:
2000: Bold concentrated still very backward even at 15 years of age. Can clearly see the wonderful potential of this wine for fantastic complexity with further aging.
1990: Less structured than expected. Softer more forwardly fruit shows herbal notes with charm but already on a plateau of enjoyment but still no rush.
1982: Sensational. JMC says ” shows that some collectors may have consumed this vintage too early”. Now making a brilliant complex round seductive statement. So delicious. Often find almost a touch of mint showing with this property but these 3 vintages didn’t display that element on this occasion.
As noted in the headlined photo with Serena Sutcliffe of Sotheby’s who also was in attendance with this scribe, Ambassador Weiser and Jean Michel who is holding a celebratory bottle of 1988 Chateau de Fargues Sauternes. This was a memorable favourite ideal wine pairing of all of us showing the maturing golden colour, complex but not now too sugary sweet with the refreshing acidity served with the food course of a block of cold duck foie gras.
Congratulations to Jean- Michel Cazes and to Chateau Lynch Bages for all you have done for Bordeaux wines and for what you continue to do for us Bordeaux wine lovers!
A great benefit of joining the International Wine & Food Society is the opportunity to travel the world by attending the many events and festivals held each year. In 2014, IW&FS members cruised down the Rhône River on Uniworld’s newest super ship, the SS Catherine, which stopped in Lyon, Avignon and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This November, our sold-out International Festival takes place in Melbourne, the cultural and sporting capital of Australia. Knowledgeable food and wine experts, tours, tastings and unique dinners are a phenomenal way to learn about the culinary arts while fostering life-long friendships from across the globe.
Continuing this rich tradition next year, members will arrive in the beautiful city of Budapest to begin a seven-night cruise across the Danube River. Possessing some of the world’s most historic vineyards that date back centuries, the chance to sample Hungary’s best wines will no doubt be a memorable highlight from this trip. Being on the other side of the Iron Curtain for so many years, western oenophiles have been playing catch up—trying to learn more about this nation’s wine industry, which made a spectacular comeback following the end of the Cold War. To help peak your interest for next year’s trip, below are ten interesting facts about Hungary and its outstanding wines.
1. Hungary has 22 official wine regions. blank blank
2. Approximately seventy-five percent of Hungarian wines are white (Fehér Bor) and are mostly produced in the north. blank
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3. Despite Budapest having the same latitude as Canada’s Quebec City, Hungary’s climate is relatively warm due to the surrounding mountains, which greatly benefits several wine regions. blank blank
4. In the late 19th century, Phylloxera reduced yearly wine production in Hungary from 4.5 million hectolitres to just 1.1 million. blank blank
5. Hungary’s most prominent wine region is Tokaj-Hegyalja (Pronounced: toe-KYE heh JAH yah), which is located in the northeast and is world famous for its Tokaji Aszú dessert wines. blank blank
6. Aszú refers to the botrytized grapes that are used to make the wine. Also known as noble rot, the mold punctures the grape’s skin, allowing water to dissipate, leaving a higher concentration of sugar and acid inside the fruit. blank blank
7. Tokaji Aszú wines are labelled based on their sweetness. Starting at 3 Puttonyos, the sweetest bottles are 6 Puttonyos. blank blank
8. The world’s very first vineyard classification based on quality was established for the region of Tokaj in 1700. Through a royal decree by Prince Rákóczi, a system of classes (primate classis, secunde classis, etc..) were set for 173 vineyards. blank blank
9. Egri Bikavér is Hungary’s most popular red wine. The name – which translates to “Bull’s blood of Eger” – is said to have originated in 1552 when Hungarian soldiers defending the Castle of Eger were seen with red wine all over their beards. Thinking it was blood coming from their mouths, the invading Turkish armies were apparently so scared that they abandoned the entire siege. blank blank
10. During the Soviet era from 1949 to 1989, a collectivist policy forced Hungarian vintners to focus on quantity instead of quality, making the classification system in place useless. blank blank
Sources:
MacNeil, Karen. The Wine Bible. New York: Workman Publishing Company Inc., 2001.
McCarthy, Ed and Ewing-Mulligan, Mary. Wine For Dummies. Hoboken: Wiley Publishing Inc., 2006.
Molnár, Miklós. A Concise History of Hungary. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2001.
Phillips, Adrian. Hungary. Guilford: The Globe Pequot Press Inc., 2010.
Zraly, Kevin. Windows on the World Complete Wine Course. New York: Sterling Publishing, 2010.
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