By Joseph Temple

***WARNING – SPOILER ALERT***

“Wine is dead.”

It is a controversial statement that makes filmmaker Jonathan Nossiter eager to find out why and how the business of wine is transforming at a rapid pace. The result is the Palme d’or nominated documentary Mondovino, shot entirely with an inexpensive handheld camera, proving that with interesting subject matter, substance can certainly trump style. Exploring how the industry is dealing with the impact of globalization as trade barriers are brought down and tastes are universalized, the film excels at giving viewers a candid look at a business dealing with a whirlwind of change.

The documentary begins by interviewing the key parties that went to war in the small village of Aniane, France. Back in 2000/2001, when mogul Robert Mondavi expressed interest in cultivating the land, the locals responded militantly by electing a communist mayor who pledged to stop the American from turning their community into the wine equivalent of EuroDisney. Brushed off as gullible “hicks” by prominent consultant Michel Rolland, the entire grassroots affair serves as a microcosm for what is going on in vineyards all over the globe, according to Nossiter.

Throughout the film, many local winemakers speak about a sort-of Wine Spectator/Robert Parker industrial complex that leads to a greater emphasis on marketing to a largely American audience. But as we see, this isn’t some pie in the sky conspiracy theory as numerous vineyards do enlist the help of scientists and consultants who instruct them on how to modify their wine to ensure a good score from mostly U.S. critics—who can make or break their entire business.   This practice, of course, is an affront to generations of winemakers who take great pride in their exceptional terroir.

Described by many as the “Parkerization” of wine, Nossiter decides to speak to the man himself by visiting his secluded home on the outskirts of Baltimore. When asked pointedly about the enormous influence he has had on the industry, Parker responds with great pride about giving little-known winemakers a chance to be noticed while tearing down the caste system synonymous with the old world. The democratization of wine –what could be more American than that?

This is one of the film’s greatest strengths. From a visit to Christie’s legendary auction house in London to the Frescobaldi archives, which includes a letter from Henry VIII requesting their wine, oenophiles will soak up all the wonderful scenery. They’ll also recognize some of the industry’s biggest icons like Robert Mondavi and Michael Broadbent. Where Sideways, also released in 2004, attracted a wide crossover audience, Mondovino will mostly appeal to the aficionados.

More importantly, the film raises legitimate questions about potential conflicts of interest. Will the amount of advertising dollars that a winery spends result in a better score? Is too much power in the hands of a few? While many would argue that in 2015, the influence of wine critics is diminishing, especially now with the internet being so dominant amongst younger drinkers, there is no denying the enormous weight these people still have eleven years after the film was first released. And whether you agree or disagree with the arguments heard throughout Mondovino, there is little doubt that it’ll still provoke a passionate debate between serious wine drinkers.

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Question: Just celebrated the Canadian Thanksgiving with a roast turkey dinner. Going to San Francisco for the US Thanksgiving on November 26 which probably will result in an encore. What is the best wine choice?

Answer: Turkey by itself is quite versatile for most wine pairings that work. It is all the other accoutrements served with it that brings in lots of other diverse flavours. No single choice is necessarily best though Andre Simon in Partners gave us a good one – Domaine de Chevalier Red from Bordeaux. Almost any white (riesling, chardonnay), rose, or red (except a too big and powerful one) should match well for you. Lots of correct choices. I usually choose a lighter pinot noir. Cop out by choosing a wine you really like drinking.

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The 2015 successful grape harvest in many of the world’s wine districts is encouraging for a stellar vintage. The warmer sunny weather has also been good for ripening of other fruits and vegetables as well. Apples have been picked earlier this year to retain crispness but still with a lovely sweet ripeness. The cooler Fall days Apple Festivals have been in full swing. The 16th annual Salt Spring Island Apple Festival (saltspringapplefestival.org) with over 350 organically grown diverse varieties was held on Sunday October 4. They have a marvellous informative glossy poster with some 60+ named hand painted apples on it. I remember the Summerland Red Mac being a recent People’s Choice Award winner. Some amazing names like Burgundy, Mother of New York State, Wealthy, and Millionaire form #1 & #2. The popular University of British Columbia Botanical Garden Apple Festival (botanicalgarden.ubc.ca) with 50,000+ lbs of 70+ varieties were sold to the thousands attending on October 17-18. Many years ago we used to line-up early to get the limited supply of Cox’s Orange Pippin available but now there are also Twenty Ounce Pippin, Lemon Pippins, Newton Pippin and more. The local BC hybrid with the fabulous name of “Ambrosia” is always a favourite eaten freshly picked off the tree and the heritage ones of “Bramley’s Seedling” & “Grimes Golden”. They also show limited amounts of quince and pears.

We just did an apple tasting (without cider) of 13 different lesser known purchased varieties. Our top 3 were the pale green Shizuka with lively firm flavours; the thin skinned refreshingly crisp Mutsu (better than Granny Smith); and our top rated conical Hidden Rose with that green-yellow-white dot skin but the magical aptly named hidden rose juicy sweet secret interior as shown in the photo above.

Lots to learn about apples other than the commercially available often waxed varieties you find in your neighbourhood store. Are you aware of the new non-browning trait of Golden & Granny varieties produced by Arctic Apples (arcticapples.com)? Check out my recommended new book published September 2014 – Apples of Uncommon Character: Heirlooms, Modern Classics, and Little-Known Wonders by Rowan Jacobsen. I must confess that I still love a fresh Gala. What apple variety do you prefer? Is there a local Apple Festival near you?

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By Joseph Temple

If you’re new to the world of wine, nothing can be more nerve-racking than having to choose what to drink at a restaurant—especially if you want to impress your date! Should you buy it by the glass or splurge for an entire bottle? How do you know if you’re being gouged? And what are you supposed to be looking for when the waiter gives you the cork? So many perplexing questions… But have no fear—below are some tips to keep in mind the next time you’re dining out. Salut!

Tip #1 – Know what you’re going to eat first

Because wine and food have such a symbiotic relationship, it’s important to make sure that whatever you select compliments the dishes at your table.  Start by having a look at the menu first and then the wine list to find a pairing that will excite your palate.  If you need any help, just ask the server or sommelier for some suggestions like, “What red would you recommend with this steak?”
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Tip #2 – Estimate how much wine you’re going to drink for the evening

With the average bottle being 750 ml, the standard five-ounce pour means that one bottle equals five glasses of wine.  And since most restaurants charge approximately 20% more if you order by the glass, have a good idea of how much you might plan to drink.  If it’s five glasses of the same wine, then definitely purchase the bottle.  But if it’s between 2-4 glasses, try a half bottle.
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Tip #3 – If you order by the glass

Having the option of purchasing by the glass, it’s no surprise that restaurants are left with a lot of partial bottles by the end of the night. So if you order just one glass, ask the waiter how long the wine has been uncorked.  If it’s been open overnight, you might want to ask for a small sample.
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Tip #4 – Understanding the wine list

Think of that leather-bound list that sits at every table as your own personal wine barometer, telling you how serious the restaurant is about what it selects.  If it looks like it hasn’t been updated in years, be wary about what the staff might recommend.  But if it’s full of detailed tasting notes, then you know you’ve got a place that is really passionate about the wines it has to offer!  Of course, it’s quality and not quantity that matters.  Don’t assume that just because the selection is as thick as a phone book that it automatically means a greater knowledge of wine.
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Tip #5 – Finding that sweet spot

It doesn’t take a mathematician to know that you’re paying a lot more for a bottle of wine when dining out at a restaurant.  On average, it can be up to triple the wholesale price.  So when making a selection, keep in mind that the best value isn’t the least expensive.  Quite the contrary – the lowest priced bottles tend to have the highest mark-ups.  Instead, try to figure out what’s known as the “sweet spot,” usually a third the way up on the price list scale.  Consisting of lesser-known names, they can offer you the best bang for your buck.  According to one winery founder, “It tends to be at the upper end of the average bottle price. To figure it out, estimate the average entree price, then double it. The sweet spot for whites tends to be right around double the entree price. For reds, add on $10 to 20.”
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Tip #6 – BYOB?

If you prefer to bring a bottle from your own collection to the restaurant, find out about the corkage fee.  This is the amount they will charge you to uncork it at their establishment.  Call the restaurant ahead of time to see if this is an option and if so, how much it will cost.
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Tip #7 – Making sense of the whole three step ritual

Have you ever wondered why the server shows you the bottle before you drink it?  The answer is to confirm that it’s exactly what you ordered.  So be sure to look out for three things – the name of the winery, the grape varietal and the vintage.  On a busy night, they may have taken the wrong bottle by accident so this is your chance to do a QC verification.  Next, comes the cork.  Again, have a close look at the writing on the cork to make sure it corresponds with the information on the bottle.  With the growing number of counterfeit wines, you’ll want to be sure you’re getting exactly what you paid for.  After that, squeeze the cork to make sure it’s solid and inspect it for possible oxidation.  Check to see that the bottom is wet, the sides mostly dry and the top completely dry.  Finally, smell it and take a small sip to make sure there is nothing faulty about the wine.  Occasionally, bottles can spoil so if you suspect anything foul, ask the sommelier and/or another member of your party for a second opinion.
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Sources:

Clarke, Jim (2015, May). How to Find the Sweet Spot on a Wine List. Details. Retrieved from http://www.details.com.
Lorch, Wink, Brook, Stephen and Rand, Margaret. Le Cordon Bleu Wine Essentials: Professional Secrets to Buying, Storing, Serving and Drinking Wine. London: Carroll & Brown Publishers Limited, 2001.
Marshall, Wes. What’s a Wine Lover to Do? New York: Artisan Books, 2010.

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Question: I recently read an article on how the average age of port drinkers is between 50 to 55 and how this fortified drink is struggling to gain a foothold with younger wine drinkers.  Do you think port can reinvent itself or is it doomed to be part of ash heap of wine drinking history?

Answer: Yes you must be referring to that interesting life style article in The Guardian. I like the innovative new ideas expressed there. Port has fallen behind some of the other wine regions in attracting younger consumers and could be revitalized. The Cathiards in Bordeaux are showing Sauternes (with similar issues to Port) in a modern style to be used as an aperitif with Perrier, fresh lime & ice called SO Sauternes. Do you recall one of the early new successful marketing ideas by Pommery with their “POP” of mini “split” Champagne bottles to drink with a straw – even on the dance floor! Chateau Margaux since 2009 now have 4 wines featuring the name “Margaux” all at different price points – Chateau Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, Margaux de Chateau Margaux , and AOC Margaux generic – to encourage the younger wine drinkers to try their brand and eventually move up the purchasing ladder to the Grand Vin. Why even in Sicily they may add cold sparkling mineral water to their traditional big bold reds. Vintage Port will always have a very special place among collectors. However there are lots of other ones out there including ruby, tawny, and white Port that could use a reinvention boost.

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