Author Archive

Question: What’s all the recent controversy about using oak during wine production?

Answer: Don’t know if you can really call it a controversy. Certainly there is a lot of concern out there because some producers at the lower price range are strongly seasoning their wines with oak chips. However there definitely seems to be a growing trend to let many fresh fragrant wines show their best natural fruit. This element becomes more difficult to discern if you mask the aromas and flavours by putting the wine into oak – particularly new oak. Remember also that new oak is expensive and wineries can lower their production costs by using only stainless steel, concrete and the like. Chardonnay is one variety that definitely is seeing less new oak recently which allows the released wine to have vibrancy (like Chablis) and show more individual terroir of each grower’s specific site including their distinct soils, climate, elevation … There will always be some grand wines that benefit from oak – even 100% new oak – like Chateau d’Yquem in Sauternes and First Growth Bordeaux.

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BMK Wikimedia [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: Sid with all the different wine closures out there I wondered if you have a distinct preference?

Answer: You are right. What a change in wine closures on the market now. For aged wines I have been a long-time cork supporter but like everyone else frustrated by the TCA cork taint problems. Easy to use screw caps are becoming increasingly popular and certainly work well to preserve fresh fruity aromatic wines. Some reductive issues still remain. Not that keen for synthetic stoppers. Like the innovative glass stoppers and being able to recap but they need individual attention to fit the specific bottle necks. The hottest new alternative especially for more expensive wines is high quality Diam processed cork held together with a polyurethane-like glue. Recommend an excellent article on “Debating Diam” this week in Decanter by Andrew Jefford which can be  found here. Impressed to note that “three billion corks since 2005 and haven’t had a single case of TCA coming from the cork itself” and “polyurethane binder…completely neutral from a sensorial point of view…glueyness had to be imaginary”. Like what is happening so far with Diam!

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By Joseph Temple

Whether you’re grilling outdoors or cooking indoors, try some of these wine-full combinations.  Have fun with the varietals to see which you like best.

1. Merlot + garlic + thyme + brow sugar + oil

2. Chardonnay + lemon + garlic + pepper + rosemary

3. Sauvignon Blanc + apple juice + sage + honey

4. Muscat + honey + water

5. Pinot Grigio + dijon + lemon + pepper

6. Sparkling wine + sesame oil + mirin + lime + sugar + soy sauce

7. Cabernet Franc + red onion + soy sauce + red pepper jelly + parsley

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By michael clarke stuff (Cars, Blaye 02 HDR) [CC BY-SA 2.0 or CC BY-SA 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: I thought 2013 Bordeaux was a difficult vintage year but now am hearing conflicting reports. Would you set me straight Sid?

Answer: I will try. The weather conditions in Bordeaux were rainy and not sunny enough to ripen the red grapes in 2013. The white grapes developed better and there will be some excellent white Bordeaux & Sauternes with lots of botrytis to acquire and enjoy. Remember that there are always merchants out there with a vested interest to be bullish and to try to sell you the latest new inventory or even futures. Also there will be some producers able to make fine wine even  in difficult conditions. In fact lower yields resulted in less total wine with a majority going into the second and third labels rather than the Grand Vin so there may be some better values at lower alcohol. However for the Bordeaux consumer 2013 is caveat emptor – or buyer beware – and unless you need the vintage for a vertical why buy a bad vintage which is risky rather than a consistently ripe vintage like 2009 or 2010 or even the great 2005. There are some fun tongue in cheek articles on this vintage such as one by Ron Washam posted on http://www.timatkin.com/articles?1197. My friend John Salvi MW who contributed a brilliant essay “Making Red Wine to Age – A Technical Discussion” in my Monograph of “An Appreciation of the Age of Wine” has a fantastic analysis of the 2013 conditions at www.indianwineacademy.com/item_1_606.aspx. Hope this helps.

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Question: I am hosting a wedding that is serving steak and fish. What wine recommendations would you make based on a modest budget of under $40 per bottle?

Answer: Your total number attending is an important missing fact. If a small intimate dinner of 8-12 serve a variety of wines as one bottle of each wine will work nicely. However I am assuming it must be an larger event with many friends. Not sure if you are serving one combined course of “surf & turf” or an alternate main of steak or fish. Regardless keep it simple but try to give everyone a choice of one red or one white. This will make the serving and especially re-pours much easier for the staff. Don’t neglect the idea of sparkling throughout – say a white or a rose. After all it is a festive occasion that suits Champagne but on your limited budget there still are lots of other excellent bubbles available for you to use. Most wedding receptions have fierce mark-ups so $40 though suitable at retail might not get you much quality at your special wedding location. Possibly Cava with the always reliable Segura Viudas  and the new fresh dry Freixenet Cordon Rosado. Latest vintage Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay for the fish from the Casablanca or Leyda regions of Chile are good value around $15. Admire what Cono Sur does with all their wines – including my fav of 20 Barrels Pinot Noir around $25. Another idea would be a Viognier from Languedoc – maybe Three Winds 2012/2013. Malbec from Argentina is much improved and popular in such an easy approachable style for a young red – lots of choice but dependable Norton Barrel Select 2010/2011 is intense and peppery. The key is to try and choose food wines that are fresh and acceptable to the majority of your guests.