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By The original uploader was Simon-sake at Dutch Wikipedia (Transferred from nl.wikipedia to Commons.) [GFDL or CC-BY-SA-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: Why Does Riesling Grow So Well In Germany?

Answer: This week’s posting on the topic “Riesling: Dry or Sweet?” generated some discussion including this question.  Tough to put your finger exactly on one specific answer. However several important factors come into play that make riesling so successful there.

First is the unique microclimate. Thirteen different wine growing regions so far north around the 50^th parallel latitude is crucial. However global warming is having some influence on the weather there. Seems you no longer can be absolutely guaranteed that riesling grown in the Saar will be quite acidic.

But it is not all about only climate but a unique terroir including appropriate soils for such a suitable grape variety like riesling! The regions benefit from the nearby rivers and their distinct soils to absorb heat during the day and retain it during the night. A variety of soils from quartz, sandy loam, clay, silt, graphite, volcanic and limestone contribute different styles. A really big reason for the world-wide admiration of  German riesling is the special Devonian blue gray slate found especially in the Mosel, Saar & Ruwer contributing to their wonderful fruit acidity as well as the structured wines from Rheingau especially around Assmannshausen, Lorch & Rudesheim. There are amazing slopes going straight up from the river bends but also terraces, and rolling hills as well. Quite diverse to say the least!

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By Joseph Temple

In 2005, China drastically lowered its tariffs on imported wines from 64% to 14%.  Since then, scores of buyers have made up for lost time by indulging themselves in the fine art of wine tasting — a practice that Chairman Mao’s Cultural Revolution outlawed for being decadent and bourgeois.  Now seldom does a week go by without a news story discussing the impact China is having on wine exports.  Purchasing 1.86 billion bottles in 2013 (a 136% increase in only five years), a whole new generation of oenophiles are springing up from Shanghai to the Himalayas as winemakers around the world eagerly look to cash in.

But what about China’s domestic production? Since almost 95% of the wine consumed in the People’s Republic comes from locally grown grapes, perhaps its time to have a closer look at this potential vino-superpower.

Having a largely superstitious population, it’s no surprise that red wine dominates the marketplace.  That’s because the color red is considered lucky in Chinese culture, while the color white is synonymous with death.  Unfortunately, since the majority of its wine consists of local grapes blended with cheap bulk wine imports, even their finest Cabernet is no match against France or California in terms of quality.  That’s why a sort-of Sino-Franco alliance has been established in recent years.

Beginning in 1978 when China first opened its doors to the West, an influx of foreign wine producers have partnered with government-run businesses to help improve the quality of its vineyards.  Some of these joint ventures have been with notable vintners such as Rémy Martin, Pernod-Ricard and more recently in 2009 when Domaines Barons de Rothschild (DBR) Lafite partnered with China’s biggest state-owned investment company to produce wine geared towards the domestic market.

Setting up shop in the city of Penglai, DBR, like most winegrowers chose the Shandong Province as their hub, which along with the Province of Shanxi benefits from a maritime climate.  Located northwest of Shanghai and south of Beijing, these two provinces share the same latitude as California and would be almost Mediterranean in climate if it weren’t for the raging monsoons.  Of the approximately 500 wineries in China, the majority are located in these two provinces, but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t others that are emerging as well, such as the Mount Helan region and Xinjiang Province on China’s western border.

As of today, Chinese wine has still failed to reach a global audience. But working alongside established vintners to increase quality, the People’s Republic might just be a sleeping giant ready to dominate the global marketplace.   Just remember that fifty years ago, wines from Australia and California were held in similar contempt.

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Question: Should I buy wine on eBay?

Answer: Topical question! As a lawyer I always approach any purchase of wine on the internet or at auction with the Latin phrase “caveat emptor” – let the buyer beware! I suggest you should too.

It is somewhat similar to buying a used car. That obviously is a rather major expenditure but top wines with their expensive prices can be costly too.  Ask yourself why is the seller getting rid of that car or that particular wine? Auction houses don’t really like 11 bottle lots because it infers that the seller tried one and didn’t like the case purchase and is dumping it. Now with so much proven counterfeit wine in the marketplace you have to be extra careful that first you are getting the genuine article. Watch out soon for the new documentary film on the Rudy Kurniawan ordeal.  Even if it is an authentic wine you have to be concerned about “hot” storage (was it naturally stored outdoors in Death Valley, California?) and the amount of ullage (space between the cork or screw top and the liquid). Beware of leakage. Remember you are not having the opportunity to hold and examine the wine prior to purchase. Descriptions may not be accurate and any photos posted may not be current enough or detailed enough to alert you to any problem. If it is only 1 bottle and not much money involved it may be worth the adventure and the experience of “gambling” on line. That great buy you think you are getting may not be so endearing when you finally taste it. Once bought you also still have to hope you receive the alcoholic product and in the USA the state by state eligibility of the buyer. Have fun but be careful. I myself would prefer using one of the many online wine shops over eBay.

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By Joseph Temple

With only a few months in office, President Gerald Ford had already hosted four official state dinners.  No less than a week after telling Americans that the “long national nightmare” of Watergate was finally over, the new commander-in-chief was sipping 1967 Louis Roederer Cristal alongside the King of Jordan.  And only days after granting a full, free and absolute pardon to Richard Nixon, White House officials uncorked a bottle of 1964 Dom Pérignon to celebrate the arrival of Israel’s Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin.  But for the dinner honoring Chancellor Bruno Kreisky of Austria, a new milestone in the history of 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue was about to take place.

On the table that night next to Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon and Napa Valley sparkling wine was a bottle of 1971 Vidal Blanc.  Only this bottle came from Michigan – the first wine from not only the Wolverine State, but from the entire mid-west to be served at the White House.

Mistakenly identified on the menu as Trebbiano, this particular vintage came from the Tabor Hill Winery of Buchanan, Michigan – located in the southwestern part of the state.  Because Michigan’s ten wineries  grew grape varieties that could endure the icy winters of the Great Lakes region, they were able to experience such phenomenal growth that by 1974 they were in the top rankings with California and New York in terms of production.  So with a Grand Rapids native in the oval office, it was only a matter of time before his home state’s wine industry was thrust into the national spotlight.

While singer Vikki Carr prepared to sing her 1974 hit “One Hell of a Woman” to an audience that included Henry Kissinger and Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas, White House chefs got ready for the evening.  On the menu that night was a rich breast of pheasant paired with earthy wild rice (a Ford administration favorite) and chestnut purée.

Marking the first time soup was offered as the opening course since the Eisenhower administration, the second course, cold smoked rainbow trout, was arguably an ode to the Austrian guests.  And paired perfectly to this was the Michigan Vidal Blanc – subtle and fruity with citrus and pear notes, it was robust and dry enough to withstand the smokiness of the fish.  So great was this wine, that for the next five years, Tabor Hill was seen on numerous other White House function menus.

Thus, November 12^th, 1974 marked the day Michigan wine had entered the mainstream.

(Left) The menu. According to Michiganwines.com, the White House incorrectly listed their wine as Trebbiano. (Right) An article in the Dayton Beach Morning Journal announcing the selection of Michigan wine.
(click to enlarge both)

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By THOR [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

Question: How important are vintage dates on a bottle of wine?

Answer: Very important! Even more so in regions that are quite weather variable like Burgundy & Piedmont. Less so in warmer more consistent weather areas like California and Chile. If there is no vintage date (NV) at all shown then it is suspicious as plonk where the winemaker is blending some left over non-saleable wine with the current vintage in order to get rid of it. Nonetheless I have enjoyed some NV wines like Rick Small’s Walla Walla winery Woodward Canyon in Washington State for his value jammy NV Red Wine Bordeaux grape blend with syrah. Always enjoyed in the old days NV Beaune de Chateau Blanc 1er Cru Bouchard Pere but now these are always vintage dated. NV now seems more restricted to use on fortified wines of port, sherry, and madeira. The other remaining holdout is Sparkling and especially Champagne where they are blending to achieve a consistent House Style. Best example is Krug Grande Cuvee (before 1978 called Private Cuvee) that uses the blender’s art of up to 120 wines from 10+ vintages amounting to 35-50% reserves for the resulting final wine. Here at a high level they are combining the best characteristics of many unique vintages as a multi vintage to produce something even better than sometimes can be produced from just one year. Therefore do not underrate all NV Champagnes. However, for collectors and at auction best wines still need a famous vintage date attached to various wines and among those that will continue to prevail include 1945 Mouton, 1947 Cheval Blanc, 1949 Latour, 1959 Lafite, 1961 Palmer, 1962 La Tache, 1967 d’Yquem, 1970 Vega Sicilia, 1974 Heitz Martha’s Vineyard, 1977 Fonseca Vintage Port, 1978 Barolo Monfortino Giacomo Conterno, 1985 Sassicaia, 1990 Margaux, 1991 Ridge Monte Bello among others.

What more recent vintage classics do you see as outstanding and continuing to increase in value?

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