A look at the wines of Kentucky

By Joseph Temple

Mention America’s fifteenth state and many will conjure up images of horse racing, bourbon distilleries and college basketball. But did you know that before the first thoroughbreds competed at Churchill Downs and prior to Colonel Sanders’ secret recipe, the Commonwealth of Kentucky was the Union’s third largest producer of wine grapes? Or how about the fact that the America’s first commercial vineyard and winery was founded in the Bluegrass State? That’s right—before there was Kentucky Bourbon or Kentucky Rain—there was Kentucky Wine.

The story begins in 1798 when a Swiss immigrant named Jean-Jacques Dufour traveled across the newly minted nation in hopes of finding the perfect place to cultivate wine. Stumbling upon what is now Jessamine County on the banks of the Kentucky River, he decided to make this the spot of America’s first commercial vineyard, the aptly named “First vineyard.” Raising the necessary capital by selling shares of the Kentucky Vineyard Society, a stock company he helped to create, Dufour used the funds to buy more than 600 acres of land and 10,000 vines of over thirty different varieties. At first, the experiment looked promising with a few bottles even making it into Thomas Jefferson’s wine cellar at Monticello. However, as most of America’s first vignerons quickly learned, growing Vitis vinifera grapes in the New World was next to impossible during the early 1800s. And with black rot, Pierce’s disease and phylloxera plaguing the area, Dufour decided to call it quits and head towards the more fertile Indiana territory. This, however, didn’t mean the end of Kentucky wine–in fact, it was only the beginning.

Above: A share in “First Vineyard” issued by the Kentucky Vineyard Society, dated 1799.

Another American wine pioneer that would influence the surrounding region was Nicholas Longworth, a banker and aspiring winemaker living in the border city of Cincinnati. Following many years of trial and error in the Ohio Valley, he would finally hit the jackpot by growing Catawba grapes, a hybrid of European rootstocks and American Vitis labrusca. And after accidentally fermenting these musky grapes for a second time, the result was a sparkling libation that transformed the Buckeye State into the largest producer of wine in the United States by 1859. Of course, this success would soon spill over the Ohio River into Northern Kentucky, which shared a similar climate and geology. In 1840, the Bluegrass State produced just 2,209 gallons of wine. Twenty years later, that figure jumped to 136,000 gallons.

Unfortunately over the next hundred years, various diseases, a Civil War and ultimately prohibition would decimate Kentucky’s wine industry as farmers switched over to growing tobacco. But with that industry now in decline, a winemaking resurgence has taken place over the last few decades. One vital factor in its comeback has been the state government in Frankfort, which agreed to finance half the startup costs for any new vineyard. From 1998 to 2002, the grape acreage in the Commonwealth quadrupled with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay accounting for much of this phenomenal growth. Moving away from native/hybrid grapes such as Vidal Blanc and Chambourcin, today’s Kentucky vintners seem to share the same pioneering spirit growing vinifera varieties as their ancestors did more than 200 years ago.

Encompassing part of the Ohio River Valley AVA, the Bluegrass State currently has 65 wineries on over 600 acres producing more than 100,000 cases per year. “The industry is growing by leaps and bounds,” according to Tyler Madison of the Kentucky Department of Agriculture. “It’s an exciting time to be a part of Kentucky wine because it’s all still so new.” One way to learn more about the state’s best vintages is to check out the winners from the annual Kentucky Commonwealth Commercial Wine Competition and Commissioner’s Cup. And the next time you’re traveling anywhere from Bowling Green to Lexington, sample some wines from an industry that dates back to the time of Jefferson and is destined for a breakout moment in the twenty-first century.

Sources:

Kentucky’s wine industry: Rich in history, richer in flavor. Go to Louisville. Retrieved from http://www.gotolouisville.com
Fauchald, Nick. (2004, June 28). The Father of American Sparkling Wine. Wine Spectator. Retrieved from http://www.winespectator.com
Loria, Keith. Kentucky Commissioner’s Cup Runneth Over. Farm Flavor. Retrieved from http://www.farmflavor.com
Pinney, Thomas. A History of Wine in America from the Beginnings to Prohibition. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989.
Tenkotte, Paul and Claypool, James. The Encyclopedia of Northern Kentucky. Lexington: The University Press of Kentucky, 2009.

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Ask Sid: Hungarian Wines

Question: I’ll be traveling to Budapest later this year – can you recommend some local wines to have during dinner?

Answer: Lots of wines from 22 different regions. 5 of my favourite areas are:

1. Badacsony around Lake Balaton. Look for their Pinot Gris “Badacsony Szurkebarat “ (Grey Monk) from Nemeth or Szeremley. Also Olasrizling (Italian Riesling).

2. Eger. The classic Egri Bikaver (Bull’s Blood) and more. Look for Tibor Gal Winery (GIA). Hard to believe 10 years since he tragically died in 2005 from an auto accident in South Africa. Remember driving with Tibor in a 4 wheeler through the forested hills discovering former old wineries and inspecting all the innovative new plantings he instituted.

3. Szekszard. Fuller spicier reds from the local Kadarka grape and others.

4. Villany. Lots of good choices. Bock Cuvee for Bordeaux blends. Wunderlich for Cabernet Franc. Vylyan Winery has good Pinot Noir and also Syrah. Note the quality differences on the bottles ranging from lowest Classic through Premium to best level called Selection.

5. Tokay. Lots of dry and sweeter versions from Szamorodni to Aszu using grapes Furmint, Harslevelu and Yellow Muscat. Like Disznoko label.

Look out for Wine Align’s Toronto Master Sommelier John Szabo’s 100% Kekfrankos bottlings!

Wine Bars have exploded. Like DeVino & Kadarka.

Drive or take the tram to the Buda Hills for historic Hungarian food restaurant Nancsi Neni with your wine choice. Enjoy!

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The Wine of Patriots: 5 ways Madeira shaped the American Revolution

By Joseph Temple

Every student who studies the American Revolution in school learns about patriots throwing tea into Boston Harbor, the first shots fired at Lexington and Concord and General George Washington leading his troops across the Delaware. But often overlooked is the pivotal role that Madeira—a fortified wine made on a Portuguese archipelago bearing the same name—played during this tumultuous time. Legend has it that after signing the Declaration of Independence, its authors celebrated their newly minted nation with a toast of this liquid pleasure. That’s because revolutionaries all grew especially fond of this drink, as it came to symbolize their righteous struggle against the rule of King George III. Here are five reasons why it became so popular in the thirteen colonies while helping to plant the seeds of revolution.

1. The Tax-Free Alternative

With no domestic wine industry, America’s first oenophiles were at the mercy of British sanctioned exports—and more importantly, British taxation. In order to drink Bordeaux or Champagne during this time, one would have to pay a sizable duty, making this beverage accessible only to wealthy colonists. But because Britain had an exclusive trade deal with Madeira following the marriage of King Charles II to Portuguese princess Catherine of Braganza, all wine produced on these islands was exempt from any harsh taxation. It was no surprise then that sales of Madeira skyrocketed throughout the colonies as an affordable alternative to more expensive European wines. With resentment against British policies reaching a boiling point, this drink came to symbolize what “taxation with representation” might look like following independence.
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2. Built to Last

Imagine you’re living in the southern colonies during the pre-revolutionary period. The heat can be unbearable during the summer months while refrigeration is still years away from becoming a reality. Wine sent across the Atlantic Ocean is frequently ruined by the rocky voyage and the odds of it lasting through a humid summer without turning into vinegar are miniscule. That is, unless it’s Madeira!

While sailing the seas, ship captains discovered that despite the intense heat and constant movement on board, Madeira, unlike other wines, actually improved under these conditions. Describing its almost infinite lifespan, author Benjamin Wallace in his book The Billionaire’s Vinegar writes, “it became common for advertisements for barrels of Madeira to boast of the miles they’d traveled, the distant port seen … it was impossible to ruin something that had, essentially, perfected the taste of ruin. Further oxidation is simply making Madeira more like itself.” So in addition to its attractive price tag, colonists had found a drink that could endure both a Boston winter and a Georgia summer.
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3. The Liberty Affair

Asked to name the key events that led to the American Revolution, many will bring up the Boston Massacre of 1770 or the Boston Tea Party of 1773. But another incident that proved to be just as critical in fostering the revolution was the Liberty Affair—an important turning point in American history during which Madeira played a central role.

Before John Hancock became famous for his signature, he was a Boston merchant and alleged smuggler who constantly thumbed his nose in the face of British tax collectors. On May 9, 1768 however, his sloop Liberty arrived with 25 pipes (large wooden barrels) of “the best sterling Madeira,” just one quarter of the vessel’s carrying capacity. Believing that he had unloaded the rest without paying the required duties, the ship was seized and Hancock was charged with smuggling. This resulted in one of the worst riots in Boston’s history when colonists, already infuriated with the Royal Navy for impressing them, violently revolted in the defense of Hancock and his supposedly smuggled wine. Call it the Boston Madeira Party!
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4. Washington’s Medicine

During his time in office, President George Washington became one of the nation’s first entrepreneurs by distilling whiskey at his home on Mount Vernon. Due to this fact, Washington is often misrepresented as a fan of spirits when his true passion was for “the rich oily Madeira” as he described it, drinking up to three glasses a day and even before heading into battle. A possible reason for this were the chronic toothaches that haunted him throughout his entire life. In the days before modern dentistry, the near 20% alcohol contained in Madeira proved to be a decent numbing agent for the president’s pain.
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5. Madeira diplomacy

Arguably, America’s greatest diplomat was Ben Franklin who successfully lured France into the fight against the British, tipping the scales in favor of the rebellious thirteen colonies. And just like Washington, Adams and Jefferson, Franklin enjoyed drinking Madeira, even having a glass at his elbow while he helped to write the Declaration of Independence. But his negotiating skills and love for Portuguese wine didn’t stop there.

Needing some firepower to defend Boston, Franklin met with New York Governor George Clinton who was timid over the request. After a few glasses of Madeira, however, Clinton quickly succumbed to the powers of persuasion. “He at first refus’d us peremptorily; but at dinner with his council, where there was great drinking of Madeira wine … he softened by degrees, and said he would lend us siz. After a few more bumpers he advanc’d to ten; and at length he very good-naturedly conceded eighteen,” wrote Franklin in his autobiography.

Sources:

Hirsch, Colin. Forgotten Drinks of Colonial New England: From Flips and Rattle-skulls to Switchel and Spruce Beer. Charleston: The History Press, 2014.
Kitman, Marvin. The Making of the Prefident 1789: The Unauthorized Campaign Biography. New York: Harper & Row, Publishers, Inc., 1989.
Middlekauff, Robert. The Glorious Cause: The American Revolution, 1763-1789. New York: Oxford University Press, 2005.
Vine, Richard. The Curious World of Wine: Facts, Legends, and Lore About the Drink We Love So Much. New York: Penguin Group, 2012.
Wallace, Benjamin. The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery of the Most Expensive Bottle of Wine. New York: Three Rivers Press, 2009.
Will-Weber, Mark. Mint Juleps with Teddy Roosevelt: The Complete History of Presidential Drinking. Washington DC: Regnery History, 2014.

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Ask Sid: Sauternes wine & food pairing

Question: Do you have a special wine and food pairing that is flying under the radar?

Answer: Drinking more of my Sauternes. Usually show rather too sweet for me with the classic foie gras match. Like them better with salty & spicy foods. Blue cheese is a natural but also try potato chips, French fries, popcorn, pretzels, pulled pork, Peking duck, spicy Indian dishes, pizza, or a ham sandwich. André Simon liked Chateau d’Yquem with peaches but Bill Blatch of Bordeaux Gold updates his choice to roast turkey. Experiment with some new ideas of your own to match those great value for the quality Sauternes.

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10 interesting facts about wines from Washington State

Washington State wines
By Joseph Temple

There probably isn’t a greater success story in the history of American viticulture than what has transpired throughout Washington. That’s because in the decades following prohibition, the Evergreen State was largely known for producing a lot of uninspiring fortified wines and growing mostly Concord grapes. But fast forward to the present and Washington is now home to twelve American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) and their many wineries have gone on to win numerous awards.

At the International Wine & Food Society, we are proud to have a branch in the city of Spokane and just last week, the Dallas Branch hosted an event dedicated to the state’s wine industry. So for this week’s entry, have a look at ten interesting facts about the wines from Washington State.

Washington State is the second largest producer of premium table wine in America
By Agne27 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

1. Washington State is second only to California as the largest producer of premium table wine in America.

Source: Henderson, J. Patrick. About Wine. Boston: Cengage Learning, 2011.

2. In 1970, there were only ten wineries in all of Washington State. Today, there are more than 750!

Source: gotastewine.com

3. The first wine grapes in Washington State were planted at Fort Vancouver as early as 1825
by the Hudson’s Bay Company.

Source: Maltese, William. William Maltese’s Wine Taster’s Diary: Spokane and Pullman, Washington. Rockville: Wildside Press LLC, 2010.

4. 98% of the wine grapes grown in Washington State are east of the Cascade Mountains.

Source: Drake, Albert Nathaniel. Washington State Winemakers: Nature Produces and People Create. Lincoln: iUniverse, 2006.

5. These mountains soak up most of the rain from the western part of the state, resulting in
just 7-12 inches of annual precipitation for most Washington State vineyards.

Source: Gregutt, Paul. Washington Wines and Wineries: The Essential Guide. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2010.

6. Additionally, the vineyards in Washington State receive an average of 17.4 hours of daily sunlight during the growing season – 2 more than in California.

Source: Danehower, Cole. Essential Wines and Wineries of the Pacific Northwest. Portland: Timber Press, 2010.

Washington State vineyards are on the same latitude as Bordeaux and Burgundy
By Agne27 (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia Commons

7. The wineries of Washington State are at approximately the same latitude (46-47 degrees) as Bordeaux and Burgundy.

Source: Drake, Albert Nathaniel. Washington State Winemakers: Nature Produces and People Create. Lincoln: iUniverse, 2006.

Washington States has more Riesling planted than any other state
By Bernt Rostad (originally posted to Flickr as Riesling grapes) [CC BY 2.0], via Wikimedia Commons

8. There are more Riesling grapes planted in Washington than any other state in the union.

Source: Zraly, Kevin. Windows on the World Complete Wine Course. New York: Sterling Publishing Company, Inc., 2010.

9. As of 2009, the grape ratio in Washington State was 52% white and 48% red.

Source: Danehower, Cole. Essential Wines and Wineries of the Pacific Northwest. Portland: Timber Press, 2010.

protective measures to protect Washington State wines
Bluedisk at English Wikipedia [CC BY-SA 3.0 or GFDL], via Wikimedia Commons

10. In 1969, the state legislature eliminated a tax on out-of-state wine, forcing local vineyards to compete, thus improving the quality of their vintages.

Source: Veseth, Mike. Wine Wars: The Curse of the Blue Nun, the Miracle of Two Buck Chuck, and the Revenge of the Terroirists. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, 2011.

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Author Archive

A look at the wines of Kentucky

Ask Sid: Hungarian Wines

The Wine of Patriots: 5 ways Madeira shaped the American Revolution

1. The Tax-Free Alternative

2. Built to Last

3. The Liberty Affair

4. Washington’s Medicine

5. Madeira diplomacy

Ask Sid: Sauternes wine & food pairing

10 interesting facts about wines from Washington State

1. Washington State is second only to California as the largest producer of premium table wine in America.

2. In 1970, there were only ten wineries in all of Washington State. Today, there are more than 750!

3. The first wine grapes in Washington State were planted at Fort Vancouver as early as 1825 by the Hudson’s Bay Company.

4. 98% of the wine grapes grown in Washington State are east of the Cascade Mountains.

5. These mountains soak up most of the rain from the western part of the state, resulting in just 7-12 inches of annual precipitation for most Washington State vineyards.

6. Additionally, the vineyards in Washington State receive an average of 17.4 hours of daily sunlight during the growing season – 2 more than in California.

7. The wineries of Washington State are at approximately the same latitude (46-47 degrees) as Bordeaux and Burgundy.

8. There are more Riesling grapes planted in Washington than any other state in the union.

9. As of 2009, the grape ratio in Washington State was 52% white and 48% red.

10. In 1969, the state legislature eliminated a tax on out-of-state wine, forcing local vineyards to compete, thus improving the quality of their vintages.

3. The first wine grapes in Washington State were planted at Fort Vancouver as early as 1825
by the Hudson’s Bay Company.

5. These mountains soak up most of the rain from the western part of the state, resulting in
just 7-12 inches of annual precipitation for most Washington State vineyards.