There are lots of old vineyards around the city of Bordeaux that historically go back many centuries. However the wide sweeping Graves name that was used for the wines was just too broad a focus. A smaller new Pessac-Leognan appellation was created in 1987 led by Andre Lurton and others that has been most successful in spotlighting more wine stars in this prized select region. Now quite a few top Pessac-Leognan properties are producing excellent wines of both white and red. One is Chateau Pape Clement. A long impressive history there going back to the Pope but a property slumbering during the mid 1900s that was hurt by a massive hail storm in 1937 that wiped out the vineyards necessitating extensive replanting. It was not a Chateau your scribe collected from the sixties and seventies as they missed the mark so often in some outstanding vintages including the 1982. It was only from the mid-eighties onward when Bernard Magrez and his team made continual improvements in the property that resulted in the outstanding wines of more recent decades. There was an early good buzz on the amazing quality of the 1990 Pape Clement so I purchased that vintage on release at just under $20/bottle and have been monitoring that exciting one for some 35 years. The Vancouver Group of Eight met on May 20, 2025 for dinner event #131 at Blue Water Cafe to enjoy and assess eight vintages ranging from 1989 to 2009.
We started with an interesting 1990 CHAMPAGNE DOM PERIGNON OENOTHEQUE disgorged in 2003 after 13 years on the lees as an early second plenitude P2 release. The provided brochure contained accurate notes we experienced of Aromas: “reveal the intensity of classic maturity: toast, hazelnuts, chocolate and spices – complex aromas of roasted coffee and woody spice quickly merge with notes of barley sugar and dried citrus peel.” and Palate: “invigorating freshness presents a slight, delicious divergence of superb intensity and vivacity which are surprising in a Champagne of this age – a penetrating, harmonious, precise richness without opulence. Persistent notes of candied citrus peels affirm themselves, becoming a vigorous and silky blend.” Excellent treat indeed matched with the classy starter of white asparagus with the fresh seasonal local Spot Prawn napped with the lightest hollandaise sauce. We finished up with the lighter mellow classic 1963 CROFT VINTAGE PORT bottled in England by Charles Kinloch and through the most astute purchase by the late consultant Peter Adams landed in December 1975 at BCLDB for only $6.35/bottle. The good old days!
2009 PAPE CLEMENT: Deepest darkest youngest look. Ripe spiced fruit of this vintage shows in the round smooth full opulent textures. Nice touch of Pessac-Leognan signature tobacco/earth comes through. An impressive rich silky wine that was a popular group favourite. Lovely plateau of enjoyment.
2005 PAPE CLÉMENT: Dark with more elegance and balance from this vintage. Lots of depth of flavours with vibrancy and structure, Not as big & rich as 2009 but more classic with aging potential. Alvin liked it and called it “complete”.
2004 PAPE CLÉMENT: Slightly darker at the rim than 2005. Very Bordeaux styled late picked high % Merlot in the blend of this variable vintage. A drier slightly rustic and harder edged less ripe fruit with acidity. Good effort. Better paired with our food course of mushrooms & ris de veau.
2000 PAPE CLÉMENT: Stylish open bouquet expressing the earthy terroir. Lovely freshness of pure smoky cherries. Smart selection of 50/50 CS/M using only 55% in the Grand Vin. Lighter bodied but a delightful surprise.
1998 HAUT-BRION: Ringer with a different attractive nose of more plums and juicy berries but not totally clean. Excellent dense textures of a First Growth with stylish elegance and length. Slightly disappointing bottle compared to what it can be.
1996 PAPE CLÉMENT: Leafy herbal nose in a good way. Almost as backward as a barrel sample. Promising but requires patience.
1995 PAPE CLÉMENT: MIchel Rolland on board from 1993 starting this newer style of lower yield riper fruit well selected from the vineyard. Even more leafy old style Merlot. More evolved and together but less fruit.
1990 PAPE CLÉMENT: Credit to Bernard Pujol for making a wonderful terroir beauty. Deep with lots of depth of fruit. Like the impressive intensity and keynote tobacco.. Full rich, more complete classic. Rich and complex drinking on the best plateau. This vintage is one of their outstanding ones – like many of their current releases.
1989 PAPE CLEMENT: More typical Graves garnet coloured edge. Tertiary mature notes. Riper style but less intense. Not showing the amazing outstanding quality of both 1989 Haut-Brion and 1989 La Mission Haut-Brion . Drink now. Culinary treasure trio with the special braised lamb neck matches well.
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