So much credit should be given to Anthony von Mandl for his amazing foresight and perseverance in establishing the Okanagan Valley as an outstanding fine wine region. It has a been a long 40 year remarkable journey driven by his continued determination and dedication to make it all happen.
He has been surprised and delighted along the way with recognition in 1994 for Mission Hill Family Estate Grand Reserve Chardonnay (only 2980 cases) vintage 1992 winning the Avery Trophy for “Best Chardonnay Worldwide” at the International Wine & Spirits Competition. Wonderful old framed nostalgic photo displayed at our Reception of Anthony, John Simes, and the late John Avery of IWFS. Anthony was further inspired and driven on to develop outstanding Chardonnay (and much improved Merlot) currently from CheckMate Artisanal Winery plus world-class Riesling & Pinot Noir at Martin’s Lane Winery. However, MHFE always had a soft spot for Bordeaux red wine blends and admired the success of Robert Mondavi in the Napa Valley. Together with founding winemaker John Simes they pushed the envelope to produce better and better red blends starting back in 1997. With the 2020 vintage of Oculus they felt they reached an “unparalleled intensity, concentration, and complexity “ and were awarded a 100 points score by John Schreiner (Canada’s most prolific writer of books on wine since 1984). As stated: “This is the story of resilience: a dream realized, a struggle overcome, and a vision fulfilled.” Accordingly, a small celebration dinner was hosted by MHFE in the elegant Royal Suite of Fairmont Hotel Vancouver on March 11, 2025 which your scribe was pleased to be invited to and attend. A few comments:
Everything by Anthony von Mandl and his wineries is always done first class. This celebration dinner by MHFE – “House of Oculus” was well organized by Laura Serena (and Morgan Sommerville) of SerenaPR plus Kaylyn Storey, Director, Public Relations, Mark Anthony Group. Our hosts of Chief Winemaker Taylor Whelan & Director, Viticulture Rob Achurch started with an educational 2022 Terroir Collection tasting of the three main components of Oculus (plus Petit Verdot): rich fruit Merlot, subtle herbs of complexity Cabernet Franc, and structure, balance and length of Cabernet Sauvignon.
The dinner aperitif served blind was a stylish lovely French Champagne from the family house of Pol Roger. The four food courses were brilliantly planned and executed with the wines chosen. Our third host Bram Bolwijn, Guest & VIP Experiences Manager provided an entertaining and thorough insight into the glorious wines served:
2022 PERPETUA: An excellent white meaning “long lasting” of Dijon clones from 4 blocks of chardonnay in Border Vista Vineyards (72%) Osoyoos and Naramata Ranch (28%) barrel fermented aged sur lie with 16 months in French oak (18% new) plus new puncheons (10%) & concrete egg (5%) at stylish 13 abv. Paired well with the crispy sage chicken morel flavours.
2014 OCULUS IN MAGNUM: A blend of 50% Merlot, 24 Cab Franc, 21 Cab Sauv & 5 PV aged in French oak (25% new) is so fresh in magnum format yet structured and balanced. Drinking beautifully smooth with special addition of more interesting Cab Franc & complex PV.
2016 OCULUS: Slow ripening harvest over lengthy 76 days of 56% Merlot, 27 Cab Sauv & 17 Cab Franc spent 20 months in French oak (27% new) at 14.5 abv shows with more of a floral earthy character. Solid easy drinking currently matched with very thinly cut seasoned carpaccio.
2010 OCULUS: From a difficult vintage blending 51% Merlot, 26 Cab Sauv, and 23 Cab Franc with 3 months of extended maceration for 14 months in French barriques. Fantastic selection of the very best fruit. Showing more aged maturity. Tertiary notes attractive with dried spices and refreshing acidity. Well done.
2020 OCULUS: This is the highlight wine of the night! The blend of 49% Merlot, 24 Cab Sauv, 22 Cab Franc, and 5 Petit Verdot for 19 months is magical – though I expect there may be more Cab Franc used in future years. Admire the smooth rich concentration of fruit with balance. Should develop yet already is delicious. Very stylish with cellaring potential. Noted as “Optimal until 2035”. Sings majestically with the outstanding pithivier of local duck and foie gras. Congrats to all.
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