Your scribe always enjoys a retrospective horizontal wine tasting that provides a specific vintage overview update plus a current assessment of development. Such was the case on April 14, 2024 at the Vancouver Club for a Black Tie dinner held by La Commanderie de Bordeaux featuring some top Left Bank 2004 Bordeaux. The vintage 2004 is now 20 years old but has been less heralded for Bordeaux as sandwiched between two more publicized years of the ripe commanding 2003 and the powerful yet classic 2005. Nonetheless the large 2004 crop from cooler weather conditions has merit but required careful grape selection during rainy conditions at harvest to achieve the best results. The reception was Bordeaux-style with a chance to try 5 excellent diverse whites all from Pessac-Leognan:
2014 LA GARDE: An old fav property from my early Eschenauer days continues to be a good value here a blend of 74% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sauvignon Gris, and 11% Semillon. Diam 5 closure. Lovely herbal spicy freshness for current use.
2015 DE FIEUZAL: Creamy full bodied style as a result of the riper tropical fruit of 2015 vintage and the high 45% Semillon with the 55% Sauvignon Blanc mix. Impressive rich showing.
2014 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE: Quality limited production of 2500 cases makes a dominant Sauvignon statement of 90% Blanc & 5% Gris plus only 5 Semillon matured in 50% new oak. Delivers balanced concentrated pure flavours presently on a wonderful plateau for admiration and enjoyment.
2013 SMITH HAUT LAFITTE: A year older but the cooler year and blocked malo has this wine still so amazingly young with fresh vibrancy. Wonderful exciting pure complexity is great now with more to develop. Congrats.
2013 DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER: Famille Bernard masterpiece from 70% Sauvignon & 30% Semillon at 13 abv is superb already but experience gives me confidence in the bright future as well. The texture and minerality from stirred lees is remarkable. Stunning.
All the reds were young and well made from a sometimes difficult vintage for obtaining the cleanest ripest fruit. Most are becoming approachable now but no rush either. Still developing and softening those tannins.
The First Flight was a comparison of the three Leoville properties in St. Julien from 2004 with a blind mystery glass that turned out to be the 2005 Poyferre:
2004 LEOVILLE LAS CASES
2004 LEOVILLE POYFERRE
2004 LEOVILLE BARTON
2005 LEOVILLE POYFERRE
All impressively deep dark and young looking with the 2005 Poyferre the darkest. LLC is tighter and more closed on the nose but has the best concentrated pure ripe cassis fruit of 76/13/11 blend CS/M/CF in 90% new oak. Requires patience. Poyferre has a lovely open flowery floral bouquet on 2004 and bigger more depth peppery intensity and rounder tannins on the 2005 (68CS/26M/6PV) for cellaring. The Barton has that recognizable medicinal iodine note with dense earthy sous bois with structure. Good flight.
Second flight impressively young but nicely paired with an exquisite lamb main course well presented:
2004 PAPE CLEMENT
2004 PALMER
2004 LATOUR
2004 MONTROSE
PC has higher 46% late harvested Merlot with 54 CS in a more approachable modern Pessac-Leognan style to enjoy now. Palmer is seductive, rather opulent and charming also with high Merlot 47%, 46% CS & 7% PV in 60% new oak. A Margaux beauty.
Latour makes more of a Cab Sauv statement using 89% in 100% new oak with a tremendous concentrated wine for confident cellaring but already is truly majestic with some graphite elegance. Very Pauillac. Compare St Estephe terroir of Montrose but not as hard and reluctant young as other vintages. The smooth harmony is coming together softer earlier on.
2004 top Left Bank Bordeaux surprises at 20 years and they are developing better than expected. Try some.
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