Bourgogne has far more yearly climate variations than many other wine regions. Accordingly, wine collectors are usually enthralled with buying the best Burgundy vintages and often dismissive of the others. Unfair comparisons often occur when the intense fruit of a top vintage overwhelms a lighter less ripe one served together. That was not the case at the latest Vancouver Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin dinner on February 17 at Boulevard Restaurant #BLVDYVR. The whites were lighter 2011 & rich 2012 with no pure classic 2010 or wonderfully balanced 2014 for dramatic differences. Similarly, the reds were all variable vintages, with the 2006 needing careful sorting, the 2007 showing lighter red fruits, and the 2008 being slightly more reliable. The adjoining great vintages—the classic, balanced 2005, the riper, fleshy 2009, or the small-crop, outstanding 2010—were nowhere in sight. This was a good thing, enabling these lesser vintages to shine in their own glory.
The evening commenced with an exquisite 2005 GASTON CHIQUET CHAMPAGNE PREMIER CRU MILLESIME OR, a House that dates back to 1746 when Nicolas Chiquet first planted the vines. Subsequently, from 1919 brothers Fernand & Gaston joined (his own brand launched in 1935). From the 1950s, his son Claude and his sons Antoine & Nicolas joined, and now Antoine’s daughter, Marion Chicquet, is involved. A great family history continues. Impressive bubbles: rich, balanced, and complex; disgorged in February 2015 after nearly 10 years on the lees. Delighted with the Sunseeker oyster & celeriac tart pairing. We finished up with the lighter, more delicate yet full-bodied 1997 FONSECA VINTAGE PORT which is drinking well now though drier than your scribe expected, but it can still wait.
2011 CORTON BLANC GRAND CRU LUCIEN LE MOINE: Founded in the late 1990s by Mounir & Rotem Samoua their “commitment is to produce wines of exceptional purity. We aim to make each wine an accurate and focused expression of its origin, that unique quality the French call ‘terroir’.” Without vineyards they usually purchase fermented juice for long elevage in custom toasted barrels in a reductive style with natural CO2 remaining so that all their wines should be decanted. A darker look with a touch of pétillant which would have cleared better with decanting ahead of time. Mature and ready.
2012 CORTON BLANC GRAND CRU LUCIEN LE MOINE: Though there are 160 hectares of Grand Cru Corton, nearly 72 are the structured Corton-Charlemagne (the largest Grand Cru property ahead of Clos de Vougeot with just over 50) and only a tiny 3.95 hectares is Corton Blanc. This is much lighter, brighter, and encouraging. Fresh with a touch of minerals. Neither vintage of Corton Blanc is as distinctively styled as top Corton-Charlemagne. Corton-Charlemagne, situated at higher elevations, probably survives climate change as well as or better than any other Burgundy white and is a proven longer ager than Corton Blanc. Tasty with the unique innovative crispy pig’s head starter.
2006 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNET DOMAINE LOUIS BOILLOT: This Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin of Champonnet sits on the Grand Cru hillside as a north extension of 3.32 hectares on clay soil in the lower part, with more gravel at the top. Louis Boillot is a leading producer who worked with his father until starting his own domaine in 2002. Working with his son Clement since 2012 on a minuscule 1/5 of a hectare here, he is now partnered with his wife Ghislaine Barthod, together, they produce 26 cuvées composed of 17 Premier Crus. This wine is made from vines older than 50 years and is 100% destemmed. This 2006 has a darker colour than the 2007, with earthy bigger red fruit notes. No rush. The duck leg course was excellent with this pairing.
2007 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNET DOMAINE LOUIS BOILLOT: The lighter, paler rim has developed compared to the 2006 with the cherry and raspberry pure flavours showing significant tertiary finesse. Both so called off vintages show nuanced styling with a wonderful elegance. Drinking well now but no rush.
2006 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES LOUPS DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS: Thierry Brouin ran this top domain for 40 years, from 1979 until his retirement in April 2018. He was succeeded by Boris Champy for less than a year and LVMH acquired the domain, followed by Jacques Devauges (formerly of Clos de Tart) in March 2019. “Les Loups” is a small production from younger vines sourced from Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays plus two other 1er Cru sites: La Riotte & the unusually named Le Village. Vinification uses punch-downs rather than pump-overs, yet the wines are accessible early on. The 2006 vintage has the best pure fruit notes of red cherry and raspberry, along with tea undertones.
2007 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES LOUPS DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS: This shows good typical acidity resulting from this vintage, earlier picking, and the use of some stems. Production in 2007 was very small, totaling only 1,500 bottles.
2008 MOREY-SAINT-DENIS 1ER CRU LES LOUPS DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS: This 2008 is quite a bit lighter in colour but has lovely, classy perfumes, spice, and suppleness. Delicious with the special beef course. I’m impressed with how well these lesser vintages bought at a super value are showing on their own merit without being compared against the very best longer aging years.
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