The Vancouver Group of Eight held another tour de force event #128 at Blue Water Cafe on February 4 featuring a nine vintage study of Vosne-Romanee Aux Brûlées from Domaine Meo-Camuzet (DMC).
This followed an earlier one #122 in July 2024 of another Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru Les Chaumes also DMC linked here. Again all the wines were most generously donated by esteemed collector Ian Mottershead. Aux Brûlées has a total of 4.53 hectares of which DMC has .73 in second place behind Domaine d’Eugenie 1.14 and ahead of Michel Gros .63. Compare this with Les Chaumes of 6.46 hectares of which DMC has 2.01 of it – way more than the others. Their Aux Brûlées mid-slope parcel facing mainly East (and North) in Aux Brûlées (divided by the D109 road leading to Concoeur-et-Corboin) is in the middle of the better southern portion towards Grand Cru Richebourg (compared to the flatter lower northern portion facing South East below the 11.39 hectares of Premier Cru Les Beaux Monts). This is a choice Premier Cru property aspiring for Grand Cru quality using older vines on clay-marl with limestone soils scattered with larger rocks.
The evening started with a fantastic classy Champagne aperitif treat of 2012 BOLLINGER VIEILLES VIGNES FRANCAISES BLANC DE NOIRS bottle #797 of 2193 produced. This is 100% Pinot Noir grapes from two tiny Grand Cru parcels in d’Ay of Les Chaudes Terres & Clos St. Jacques planted “en foule” in unorganized profusion with the vines propagated by layering. A unique treasure from a top vintage harvested on September 13, 2012 that was disgorged in March 2023 with a moderate dosage of 6 grams/litre. Most impressive showing long lees aging (memories of their leadership role in RD recently disgorged bubbles) with toasty lemon zest prominent ginger complex bouquet and flavours a special delight with the Dungeness crab hors d’oeuvre.
Finished with another classic of 1970 FONSECA VINTAGE PORT perfectly decanted service developing in the glass into a smooth rich full (not spirity) balanced digestif with lots of depth and length. No rush.
Some impressions of the nine DMC Aux Brûlées:
2011 AUX BRULEES 12.5 ABV: Challenging variable vintage. Paling rim but good depth with lovely open red fruits aromas and a lighter forwardly finesse palate for current drinking.
2010 AUX BRULEES 12.5 ABV: Spring frosts and difficult flowering resulted in a smaller crop. Medium colour but a deep classy nose of many complex elements including cherries, subtle earthiness, and exotic spices. Admire the noble cool intensity with refined delicacy all in balanced harmony. Wonderful cloves in this wine that are also noted in the fabulous two-way duck dish. Enjoyable lovely silkiness starting to develop now but even more classic Vosne-Romanee terroir to deliver with some further patience.
2009 AUX BRULEES 13.5 ABV: Warmer vintage. Deep red colour showing sweeter riper bouquet. Rounder softer fuller opulence on the taste. Ian commented on the “bigger black fruits” it shows. Lots of dark cherries but not over the top jammy Cherry Heering Liqueur. Has the concentration of fruit to admire presently and will be on this exciting plateau for a long while.
2008 AUX BRULEES 13 ABV: Erratic weather required attentive grape selection and careful vinification as was done here. Smartly used a later harvest with drying Fall winds for clean ripe better fruit retaining low pH and bright fresh acidity. Leaner and elegant but again has an admirable delicacy of Aux Brûlées. Would give this more cellar time for the acidity and tannins to come together with the choice fruit.
2005 AUX BRULEES 13.5 ABV: Great weather conditions with a smaller harvest. Very dark and deep look. Pumped by the fantastic cherries, creaminess, and all in perfect harmony! Amazing best tannins with intriguing minerality notes. This 2005 is the way to combine power with elegance. Favourite “complexity” of David Kester. Unlimited future ahead. A great treasured bottle.
2003 AUX BRULEES 13.5 ABV: Hot intense heat of the Summer. Very pale rim with less red. Lots of spicy extracted ripe concentration but too soft and soupy. Acidity too low. Lacking in that special Aux Brûlées terroir. Recommend drinking this atypical one right now.
2002 AUX BRULEES 13.5 ABV: Stellar remarkable year that favoured Burgundy over most of the rest of Europe. Lighter open stylish statement with a lot of charm. Like the delicious succulent clarity of expression here. Goes well with the keenly sourced from Alberta Elk Rack course. Showing the terroir better with admirable textures and refinement. Pretty classic. Probably has less depth and longevity than the treasures of 2010 & 2005.
1999 AUX BRULEES 13 ABV: Second darkest behind 2005. Great vintage in Cotes de Nuits and especially also Cotes de Beaune. Always find this vintage delivers a lot of power. Impressively does so here for Aux Brûlées. Firmer tannins and generous more robust structure. Nick Wright nailed it nicely as “less elegant than 2005”. Still there is a lot of big sturdy forest floor truffle fruit and potential here that should improve.
1998 AUX BRULEES 13 ABV: Lightest and palest edge. Difficult year with narrow September picking window between the rains coming early and late. Tried this vintage a few years ago with slight Brett issues. Clean here though and open with most tertiary bouquet – that is encouraging for the 8 younger years tasted here still showing somewhat primary in development. Some cinnamon and surprising interest but overall this vintage is a bit too austere.
So differently styled from the current excellent releases like the 2022 that has such ripe attractive approachable fruit and lots of Francois Frere 80% new oak. Check them out.
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